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The composition and development of microbial population during the manufacture and ripening of two batches of a blue-veined cheese was examined by culturing and polymerase chain reaction (PCR) denaturing gradient gel electrophoresis (DGGE) (PCR-DGGE). Nine selective and/or differential media were used to track the cultivable populations of total and indicator microbial groups. For PCR-DGGE, the V3 hyper variable region of the bacterial 16S rRNA gene and the eukaryotic D1 domain of 28S rDNA were amplified with universal primers, specific for prokaryotes and eukaryotes, respectively. Similarities and differences between the results obtained by the culturing and the molecular method were recorded for some populations. Culturing analysis allows minority microbial groups (coliforms, staphylococci) to be monitored, although in this study PCR-DGGE identified a population of Streptococcus thermophilus that went undetected by culturing. These results show that the characterization of the microbial populations interacting and evolving during the cheese-making process is improved by combining culturing and molecular methods. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]