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The effect of nanoencapsulation on the in vitro photoprotection and antioxidant properties of blueberry (Vaccinium myrtillus) extract, before and after their dispersion into an oil-in-water emulsion and its final stability under stress conditions. Besides its skin healing activity, chitosan was chosen as wall material due to its natural origin, and possibility of obtention from shrimp residues. Chitosan/tripolyphosphate (TPP) nanoparticles loaded with blueberry extract were produced and characterized. Three different semi-solid oil-in-water emulsions, using Ecocert certified materials, were developed containing, respectively, (i) 5% (wt/wt) of extract-free nanoparticles, (ii) 5% (wt/wt) of extract-loaded nanoparticles, (iii) 2% (wt/wt) of free extract. Sun protection factor (SPF), antioxidant activity and stability under stress conditions were evaluated. The concentration of rutin was determined by High Performance Liquid Chromatography (HPLC). The loading of blueberry extract into nanoparticles kept their physicochemical properties, as well as SPF and antioxidant activity, over the course of the stability study. Extract-loaded nanoparticles were dispersed in a semi-solid oil-in-water emulsion and were shown to protect the extract from oxidation, suggesting that formulation containing 5% (wt/wt) of extract-free nanoparticles could presented lower difference between initial and final SPF and antioxidant activity values after 90 days of analysis. The developed formulation is proposed as a greener potential formulation to be used as photoprotector, especially if associated with physical sun filters. The role of blueberry flavonoids and the synergistic effect of nanoparticles against skin aging are here discussed., This research was funded by FAPESP (grant number 2015/25533–7, 2017/14757–7, 2017/05275–9) and in part by CAPES (Finance Code 001). This study was financed by CNPq (301436/2017–7) granted to PGM, and by the Portuguese Science and Technology Foundation (FCT / MCT) and from European Funds (PRODER/COMPETE) under the project reference UIDB/04469/2020 (strategic fund), co-financed by FEDER, under the Partnership Agreement PT2020, granted to EBS., info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersion

The aim of the present study was to carry out stability tests and in vitro sun protection factor (SPF) evaluations of formulations containing free or microencapsulated chemical sun filters to improve their use. To this end, three formulations were developed and subjected to stability studies. The most stable formulation was chosen as a vehicle for free and microencapsulated chemical sun filters, and subjected to further stability studies and in vitro SPF assays. The SPF values were approximately 12 and 11 for formulations containing free and encapsulated sun filters, respectively, and both types were stable under stress. Chemical sun filters can be microencapsulated, which may aid in generating innovative sunscreen formulations.

The aim of this study was to develop a phytocosmetic sunscreen emulsion with antioxidant effect, containing a blend of flavonoid-enriched plant extracts. In vitro sun protection factor, antioxidant activity, skin irritation, photostability, cutaneous permeation, and retention of flavonoids were evaluated. Thermodynamically stable emulsions were obtained and tested for sensorial analysis after loading the blend of extracts. The selected emulsion was stable when stored at low temperatures (5 C), for which after 120 days the concentration of quercetin and rutin were above their limit of quantification, i.e., 2.8 &plusmn, 0.39 &micro, g/mL and 30.39 &plusmn, g/mL, respectively. Spreadability, low rupture strength and adhesiveness were shown to be similar to a conventional topical product. Higher brittleness, pseudo-plastic, and viscoelastic behaviors were also recorded for the developed phytocosmetic sunscreen. The product presented a critical wavelength of 387.0 nm and ultraviolet rays A and B (UVA/UVB) rate of 0.78, confirming that the developed formulation shows capacity for UVA/UVB protection, protecting skin against damages caused by Ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Rutin was shown to permeate the skin barrier and was also quantified in the stratum corneum (3.27 &plusmn, 1.92 &micro, g/mL) by tape stripping and retention test (114.68 &plusmn, 8.70 &micro, g/mL). The developed flavonoid-enriched phytocosmetic was shown to be non-irritant to skin by an in vitro assay. Our results confirm the antioxidant activity, sun protection, and physical properties of the developed phytocosmetic for topical application.

This study aims to evaluate properties as antioxidant activity, solar protection factor (SPF) and wound healing ability of jaboticaba peel's extract by in vitro methods. Jaboticaba peels were removed, dried, and then subjected to extraction method using ethanol. The extract was in vitro evaluated for preliminary studies about SPF, antioxidant activity and wound healing assay. Thereafter the extract was incorporated in an oil-in-water emulsion (phytocosmetic). The phytocosmetic was submitted to stability study and in vitro SPF evaluation. The extract's showed purple color with in vitro SPF of 24.86, stimulated keratinocytes migration after 9 h of exposition and presented antioxidant activity. The incorporation of the extract gave the phytocosmetic formulation a light pink shade with an in vitro SPF of 19.00. Under stress conditions, the formulation was stable, especially when stored in low temperatures. Jaboticaba peel extract promoted wound healing in vitro presenting SPF and antioxidant activity. Final phytocosmetic formulation was stable when stored protect from light and heat, indicating that Jaboticaba extract can be used to develop products to protect skin against aging and sun exposure.

The aim of study was to determine the in vitro sun protection factor (SPF) and the photostability profile of a topical formulation composed of nanoparticles loaded with vegetable extracts and to assess its physicochemical properties. Chitosan/tripolyphosphate (TPP) nanoparticles loaded with flavonoids-enriched vegetable extracts (Ginkgo biloba L., Dimorphandra mollis Benth, Ruta graveolens, and Vitis vinifera L.) were produced and characterized for their morphology, mean particle size, zeta potential, and encapsulation efficiency. A final topical formulation was obtained by dispersing chitosan/TPP nanoparticles in an o/w emulsion. Results showed that nanoparticles dispersion exhibited yellowish color, spherical shape, and uniform appearance. Extract-loaded chitosan/TPP nanoparticles showed a mean particle size of 557.11±3.1 nm, polydispersity index of 0.39±0.27, zeta potential of +11.54±2.1 mV, and encapsulation efficiency of 75.89% of rutin. The recorded texture parameters confirm that the developed formulation is appropriate for skin application. The SPF obtained was 2.3±0.4, with a critical wavelength of 387.0 nm and 0.69 UVA/UVB ratio. The developed formulation exhibited photostability, allowing the release of flavonoids from nanoparticles while retaining rutin into the skin in a higher extension., The authors acknowledge FAPESP (grant number 2015/25533-7 and 2017/14757-7), CAPES, and CNPq agencies for the financial support of this study. The authors also acknowledge the financial support received from the Portuguese Science and Technology Foundation (FCT/MCT) and from the European Funds (PRODER/COMPETE) under the project reference M-ERA-NET/0004/2015-PAIRED, co-financed by FEDER, under the Partnership Agreement PT2020., info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersion

Background: The fruits acerola and red plum are known to be good sources of antioxidants, particularly vitamin C. Antioxidants are compounds that protect organisms from biomolecular damage, such as accelerated aging, caused by free radicals. Objective: The objective of this study was to extract vitamin C from acerola and red plum, incorporate these extracts into different topical formulations, and evaluate the physicochemical stabilities of these formulations under stress conditions. Methods: Vitamin C was extracted from acerola and red plum via dynamic maceration for 2 h at 50 ± 2°C and was quantified via HPLC. In vitro antioxidant activities were evaluated using DPPH assays. The extracts were then incorporated into emulsion and gel formulations in two types of packaging, and stability studies were carried out. Results: Red plum and acerola extracts were orange and red and contained vitamin C concentrations of 2732.70 ± 93.01 mg/100 g and 2.60 ± 1.2 mg/100 g, respectively. In vitro antioxidant activity resulted in over 90.0% inhibition of free radicals at 0.01 mL/mL acerola extract and 0.1 mL/mL red plum extract. In the stability study, pH values decreased for both acerola formulations when stored in the oven or in transparent glass containers. Formulations containing red plum extract were stable under all conditions. Acerola extracts contained a higher concentration of vitamin C than red plum extracts. Both extracts possessed antioxidant activity, although the acerola-based formulation was unstable when stored at high temperatures or in transparent glass containers. Highlights: Extracts from red plum and acerola contained vitamin C; antioxidant activity of the extracts resulted in over 90.0% inhibition of free radicals. Formulations containing red plum were stable under all tested conditions, and formulations containing acerola were unstable when stored in the oven or in transparent glass containers.

This study aimed to characterize different emulsions obtained by the addition of four thickening agents, using rheological measurements, beyond analyzing the emulsions by polarized light microscopy looking for liquid crystals on them. The addition of these four thickening agents did not modify the base emulsion rheology, only an improvement in the sensory of the formulation was verified. The polarized light microscopy showed the formation of liquid crystalline structures in all the formulations, thus, the thickening agents did not influence in this parameter too. However, the emulsions could be considered appropriated for cosmetic purposes, probably being highly physically stable.

Appropriate therapeutics for wound treatments can be achieved by studying the pathophysiology of tissue repair. Here we develop formulations of lamellar gel phase (LGP) emulsions containing marigold (Calendula officinalis) oil, evaluating their stability and activity on experimental wound healing in rats. LGP emulsions were developed and evaluated based on a phase ternary diagram to select the best LGP emulsion, having a good amount of anisotropic structure and stability. The selected LGP formulation was analyzed according to the intrinsic and accelerated physical stability at different temperatures. In addition, in vitro and in vivo studies were carried out on wound healing rats as a model. The LGP emulsion (15.0% marigold oil; 10.0% of blend surfactants and 75.0% of purified water [w/w/w]) demonstrated good stability and high viscosity, suggesting longer contact of the formulation with the wound. No cytotoxic activity (50-1000 μg/mL) was observed in marigold oil. In the wound healing rat model, the LGP (15 mg/mL) showed an increase in the leukocyte recruitment to the wound at least on days 2 and 7, but reduced leukocyte recruitment after 14 and 21 days, as compared to the control. Additionally, collagen production was reduced in the LGP emulsion on days 2 and 7 and further accelerated the process of re-epithelialization of the wound itself. The methodology utilized in the present study has produced a potentially useful formulation for a stable LGP emulsion-containing marigold, which was able to improve the wound healing process.