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Your search keyword '"Altran Ouest, Atlantide"' showing total 2 results
Start Over Author "Altran Ouest, Atlantide" Topic general earth and planetary sciences
2 results on '"Altran Ouest, Atlantide"'

1. Infragravity period oscillations in a channel harbor near a river mouth

Author

Florian Bellafont, Volker Roeber, Gaël André, Stéphane Abadie, Denis Morichon, Laboratoire des Sciences de l'Ingénieur Appliquées à la Mécanique et au génie Electrique (SIAME), Université de Pau et des Pays de l'Adour (UPPA), University of Hawai‘i [Mānoa] (UHM), Altran Ouest, Atlantide, Service Hydrographique et Océanographique de la Marine (SHOM), and Ministère de la Défense

Subjects
infragravity waves, Seiche, 010504 meteorology & atmospheric sciences, Infragravity wave, Boussinesq model, BOSZ, 01 natural sciences, 010305 fluids & plasmas, surf zone processes, 0103 physical sciences, River mouth, Coastal engineering, 14. Life underwater, harbor oscillation, COM, ComputingMilieux_MISCELLANEOUS, 0105 earth and related environmental sciences, General Environmental Science, [PHYS]Physics [physics], [SDU.OCEAN]Sciences of the Universe [physics]/Ocean, Atmosphere, geography, geography.geographical_feature_category, long waves, wave spectrum, Storm, Mooring, channel harbor, Swell, General Earth and Planetary Sciences, Seismology, Channel (geography), Geology
Abstract

International audience; Port of Bayonne, located in SW France, is a channel harbor situated near the river mouth of the Adour. Long-period oscillations have repeatedly caused snapping of mooring lines of berthed ships and have led to wave resonances in an adjacent marina (seiche). To investigate mechanisms for generation of theses oscillations, a field campaign was carried out during a one-year return-period storm (Hs = 6 m and Tp = 15 s): four pressure sensors were deployed inside the port. To complement the data and to better understand the governing processes that lead to the wave transformations in Port of Bayonne, the storm event was computed with the Boussinesq-type model, BOSZ. The data confirm the model results, which show generation of long infragravity (IG) waves by the incident swell around the harbor entrance and free propagation of these waves without amplification over far distances inside Port of Bayonne. Excited by these long waves, resonance oscillations are only noticeable in a small enclosed marina. Though the IG-waves are not causing substantial changes to the water level along the harbor channel, they are suspected to excite the ships' eigen modes, which consequently results in mooring problems.

Published
2018

2. Infragravity waves: From driving mechanisms to impacts

Author

Bertin, Xavier, de Bakker, A.T.M., van Dongeren, Ap, Coco, Giovanni, Andre, Gael, Ardhuin, F., Bonneton, P., Bouchette, Frederic, Castelle, B., Crawford, Wayne, Davidson, M., Deen, Martha, Dodet, Guillaume, Guerin, Thomas, Inch, Kris, Leckler, Fabien, McCall, Robert, Muller, Heloise, Olabarrieta, Maintane, Roelvink, Dano, Ruessink, B.G., Sous, Damien, Stutzmann, Eleonore, Tissier, M.F.S., Proceskunde, Coastal dynamics, Fluvial systems and Global change, LIttoral ENvironnement et Sociétés - UMRi 7266 (LIENSs), Université de La Rochelle (ULR)-Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS), Department of Physical Geography, Utrecht University [Utrecht]-Faculty of Geosciences, DELTARES (DELTARES), DELTARES, Altran Ouest, Atlantide, Institut Français de Recherche pour l'Exploitation de la Mer (IFREMER), Environnements et Paléoenvironnements OCéaniques (EPOC), Observatoire aquitain des sciences de l'univers (OASU), Université Sciences et Technologies - Bordeaux 1-Institut national des sciences de l'Univers (INSU - CNRS)-Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS)-Université Sciences et Technologies - Bordeaux 1-Institut national des sciences de l'Univers (INSU - CNRS)-Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS)-École pratique des hautes études (EPHE), Université Paris sciences et lettres (PSL)-Université Paris sciences et lettres (PSL)-Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS), Géosciences Montpellier, Institut national des sciences de l'Univers (INSU - CNRS)-Université de Montpellier (UM)-Université des Antilles (UA)-Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS), Institut de Physique du Globe de Paris (IPGP), Université Pierre et Marie Curie - Paris 6 (UPMC)-Institut national des sciences de l'Univers (INSU - CNRS)-IPG PARIS-Université Paris Diderot - Paris 7 (UPD7)-Université de La Réunion (UR)-Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS), Littoral, Environnement, Télédétection, Géomatique (LETG - Brest), Littoral, Environnement, Télédétection, Géomatique UMR 6554 (LETG), Université de Caen Normandie (UNICAEN), Normandie Université (NU)-Normandie Université (NU)-Université d'Angers (UA)-École pratique des hautes études (EPHE), Université Paris sciences et lettres (PSL)-Université Paris sciences et lettres (PSL)-Université de Brest (UBO)-Université de Rennes 2 (UR2), Université de Rennes (UNIV-RENNES)-Université de Rennes (UNIV-RENNES)-Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS)-Institut de Géographie et d'Aménagement Régional de l'Université de Nantes (IGARUN), Université de Nantes (UN)-Université de Nantes (UN)-Université de Caen Normandie (UNICAEN), Université de Nantes (UN)-Université de Nantes (UN), Service Hydrographique et Océanographique de la Marine (SHOM), Ministère de la Défense, Bureau de Recherches Géologiques et Minières (BRGM) (BRGM), University of Florida [Gainesville] (UF), Unesco (UNESCO), IHES, Institute for Marine and Atmospheric Research [Utrecht] (IMAU), Utrecht University [Utrecht], Institut méditerranéen d'océanologie (MIO), Institut de Recherche pour le Développement (IRD)-Aix Marseille Université (AMU)-Institut national des sciences de l'Univers (INSU - CNRS)-Université de Toulon (UTLN)-Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS), LIttoral ENvironnement et Sociétés - UMR 7266 ( LIENSs ), Université de La Rochelle ( ULR ) -Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique ( CNRS ), DELTARES ( DELTARES ), Institut Français de Recherche pour l'Exploitation de la Mer ( IFREMER ), Environnements et Paléoenvironnements OCéaniques ( EPOC ), Observatoire aquitain des sciences de l'univers ( OASU ), Université Sciences et Technologies - Bordeaux 1-Institut national des sciences de l'Univers ( INSU - CNRS ) -Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique ( CNRS ) -Université Sciences et Technologies - Bordeaux 1-Institut national des sciences de l'Univers ( INSU - CNRS ) -Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique ( CNRS ) -École pratique des hautes études ( EPHE ) -Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique ( CNRS ), Université des Antilles et de la Guyane ( UAG ) -Institut national des sciences de l'Univers ( INSU - CNRS ) -Université de Montpellier ( UM ) -Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique ( CNRS ), Institut de Physique du Globe de Paris ( IPGP ), Université Pierre et Marie Curie - Paris 6 ( UPMC ) -Institut national des sciences de l'Univers ( INSU - CNRS ) -IPG PARIS-Université Paris Diderot - Paris 7 ( UPD7 ) -Université de la Réunion ( UR ) -Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique ( CNRS ), Littoral, Environnement, Télédétection, Géomatique ( LETG - Brest ), Littoral, Environnement, Télédétection, Géomatique ( LETG ), Université de Caen Normandie ( UNICAEN ), Normandie Université ( NU ) -Normandie Université ( NU ) -Université d'Angers ( UA ) -Université de Nantes ( UN ) -École pratique des hautes études ( EPHE ) -Université de Brest ( UBO ) -Université de Rennes 2 ( UR2 ), Université de Rennes ( UNIV-RENNES ) -Université de Rennes ( UNIV-RENNES ) -Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique ( CNRS ) -Université de Caen Normandie ( UNICAEN ), Université de Rennes ( UNIV-RENNES ) -Université de Rennes ( UNIV-RENNES ) -Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique ( CNRS ), Service Hydrographique et Océanographique de la Marine ( SHOM ), Bureau de Recherches Géologiques et Minières (BRGM) ( BRGM ), University of Florida [Gainesville] ( UF ), Unesco ( UNESCO ), Institute for Marine and Atmospheric Research [Utrecht] ( IMAU ), Institut méditerranéen d'océanologie ( MIO ), Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique ( CNRS ) -Université de Toulon ( UTLN ) -Aix Marseille Université ( AMU ) -Institut de Recherche pour le Développement ( IRD ), Proceskunde, Coastal dynamics, Fluvial systems and Global change, LIttoral ENvironnement et Sociétés (LIENSs), La Rochelle Université (ULR)-Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS), Université Sciences et Technologies - Bordeaux 1 (UB)-Institut national des sciences de l'Univers (INSU - CNRS)-Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS)-Université Sciences et Technologies - Bordeaux 1 (UB)-Institut national des sciences de l'Univers (INSU - CNRS)-Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS)-École Pratique des Hautes Études (EPHE), Institut national des sciences de l'Univers (INSU - CNRS)-Université de Montpellier (UM)-Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS)-Université des Antilles (UA), Institut national des sciences de l'Univers (INSU - CNRS)-Université Paris Diderot - Paris 7 (UPD7)-Université de La Réunion (UR)-Institut de Physique du Globe de Paris (IPG Paris)-Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS), Normandie Université (NU)-Normandie Université (NU)-Université d'Angers (UA)-École Pratique des Hautes Études (EPHE), and Université Paris sciences et lettres (PSL)-Université Paris sciences et lettres (PSL)-Université de Brest (UBO)-Université de Rennes 2 (UR2)-Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS)-Institut de Géographie et d'Aménagement Régional de l'Université de Nantes (IGARUN)

Subjects
[ SDU.OCEAN ] Sciences of the Universe [physics]/Ocean, Atmosphere, Seiche, 010504 meteorology & atmospheric sciences, Infragravity wave, Bound wave, Reflection, 010502 geochemistry & geophysics, 01 natural sciences, Earth hum, 14. Life underwater, Overwash, Hydraulic jump, ComputingMilieux_MISCELLANEOUS, 0105 earth and related environmental sciences, [SDU.OCEAN]Sciences of the Universe [physics]/Ocean, Atmosphere, Infragravity waves, Front (oceanography), Breaking wave, Geophysics, Sediment transport, Waves and shallow water, 13. Climate action, Dissipation, Barrier breaching, Reflection (physics), General Earth and Planetary Sciences, Geology
Abstract

Infragravity (hereafter IG) waves are surface ocean waves with frequencies below those of wind-generated “short waves” (typically below 0.04 Hz). Here we focus on the most common type of IG waves, those induced by the presence of groups in incident short waves. Three related mechanisms explain their generation: (1) the development, shoaling and release of waves bound to the short-wave group envelopes (2) the modulation by these envelopes of the location where short waves break, and (3) the merging of bores (breaking wave front, resembling to a hydraulic jump) inside the surfzone. When reaching shallow water (O(1–10 m)), IG waves can transfer part of their energy back to higher frequencies, a process which is highly dependent on beach slope. On gently sloping beaches, IG waves can dissipate a substantial amount of energy through depth-limited breaking. When the bottom is very rough, such as in coral reef environments, a substantial amount of energy can be dissipated through bottom friction. IG wave energy that is not dissipated is reflected seaward, predominantly for the lowest IG frequencies and on steep bottom slopes. This reflection of the lowest IG frequencies can result in the development of standing (also known as stationary) waves. Reflected IG waves can be refractively trapped so that quasi-periodic along-shore patterns, also referred to as edge waves, can develop. IG waves have a large range of implications in the hydro-sedimentary dynamics of coastal zones. For example, they can modulate current velocities in rip channels and strongly influence cross-shore and longshore mixing. On sandy beaches, IG waves can strongly impact the water table and associated groundwater flows. On gently sloping beaches and especially under storm conditions, IG waves can dominate cross-shore sediment transport, generally promoting offshore transport inside the surfzone. Under storm conditions, IG waves can also induce overwash and eventually promote dune erosion and barrier breaching. In tidal inlets, IG waves can propagate into the back-barrier lagoon during the flood phase and induce large modulations of currents and sediment transport. Their effect appears to be smaller during the ebb phase, due to blocking by countercurrents, particularly in shallow systems. On coral and rocky reefs, IG waves can dominate over short-waves and control the hydro-sedimentary dynamics over the reef flat and in the lagoon. In harbors and semi-enclosed basins, free IG waves can be amplified by resonance and induce large seiches (resonant oscillations). Lastly, free IG waves that are generated in the nearshore can cross oceans and they can also explain the development of the Earth's “hum” (background free oscillations of the solid earth).

Published
2018
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