Search

Abstract: Simple stability relationships are practically useful to provide a rapid assessment of coastal and estuarine landforms in response to human interventions and long‐term climate change. In this contribution, we review a variety of simple stability relationships which are based on the analysis of tidal asymmetry (TA). Most of the existing TA‐based stability relationships are derived using the one‐dimensional tidal flow equations assuming a certain regular shape of the tidal channel cross‐sections. To facilitate analytical solutions, specific assumptions inevitably need to be made, for example by linearizing the friction term and dropping some negligible terms in the tidal flow equations. We find that three major types of TA‐based stability relationships have been proposed between three non‐dimensional channel geometric ratios (represented by the ratio of channel widths, ratio of wet surface areas and ratio of storage volumes) and the tide‐related parameter a/h (i.e. the ratio between tidal amplitude and mean water depth). Based on established geometric relations, we use these non‐dimensional ratios to restate the existing relationships so that they are directly comparable. Available datasets are further extended to examine the utility of these TA‐based relationships. Although a certain agreement is shown for these relationships, we also observe a large scatter of data points which are collected in different types of landscape, hydrodynamic and sedimentological settings over the world. We discuss in detail the potential reasons for this large scatter and subsequently elaborate on the limited applicability of the various TA‐based stability relationships for practical use. We highlight the need to delve further into what constitutes equilibrium and what is needed to develop more robust measures to determine the morphological state of these systems. Copyright © 2018 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Morphodynamic equilibrium is a widely adopted yet elusive concept in the field of geomorphology of coasts, rivers and estuaries. Based on the Exner equation, an expression of mass conservation of sediment, we distinguish three types of equilibrium defined as static and dynamic, of which two different types exist. Other expressions such as statistical and quasi-equilibrium which do not strictly satisfy the Exner conditions are also acknowledged for their practical use. The choice of a temporal scale is imperative to analyse the type of equilibrium. We discuss the difference between morphodynamic equilibrium in the “real world” (nature) and the “virtual world” (model). Modelling studies rely on simplifications of the real world and lead to understanding of process interactions. A variety of factors affect the use of virtual-world predictions in the real world (e.g., variability in environmental drivers and variability in the setting) so that the concept of morphodynamic equilibrium should be mathematically unequivocal in the virtual world and interpreted over the appropriate spatial and temporal scale in the real world. We draw examples from estuarine settings which are subject to various governing factors which broadly include hydrodynamics, sedimentology and landscape setting. Following the traditional “tide-wave-river” ternary diagram, we summarize studies to date that explore the “virtual world”, discuss the type of equilibrium reached and how it relates to the real world. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Abstract: Applying complex systems perspectives to geomorphic systems leads to the conclusion that cause and effect in landscape systems does not always apply in the ways that common sense and traditional assumptions would suggest. Geomorphologists have long thought that events must have causes and that landscape structures exist where they do for particular reasons. In addition, since the rise of process geomorphology, geomorphologists have often assumed that small-scale processes directly cause large-scale, long-term landscape evolution; that for understanding or predicting the large-scale behaviors, the details of the small-scale processes matter; and that large-scale processes do not directly cause behaviors at much smaller scales. However, in self-organized systems, autogenic events can arise from feedbacks internal to the system, without any variation in the forcing to cause the event. Similarly, structures within self-organized patterns in the landscape can emerge spontaneously, even though there may not be any pre-existing heterogeneity to cause the localization of the structure. In addition, cause and effect can operate from large scales to small ones as well as the reverse, and interactions that emerge at larger scales can determine the characteristics of the landscape, independent of the details of the small-scale processes. To exemplify these points, we will use research on ‘sorted bedforms’, striking shallow seabed grain-sized sorted patterns on scales ranging from tens of meters to kilometers. The stripes of coarse sand or gravel that are segregated from intervening fine-sand domains were originally ascribed to hypothesized, spatially focused currents. However, more recent modeling and field observations point to a self-organization mechanism in which the locations of the features do not correspond with any heterogeneity in the forcing or antecedent conditions. Very recent modeling work shows that regionally the pattern can spontaneously break down and reform, without any corresponding change in the forcing. Experiments with different approaches to modeling these features, and very different ways of representing the small scale processes, tend to cause essentially identical behavior and characteristics at the scale of the pattern—suggesting that emergent interactions at the large scale more directly explain, or cause, the phenomena than do the small scale processes. Finally, as for many systems, behaviors at small scales are strongly influenced by larger scale behaviors. We also use select examples from a range of landscape-evolution studies to contrast predictions made using traditional assumptions about cause and effect from those made using a complex-systems approach. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: Tidal network morphodynamics is an active field of research and advances achieved over the last decade, particularly with respect to laboratory experiments and numerical modelling, have lead to fundamental insight about their functioning. We address how these advances have specifically contributed to the understanding of tidal network functioning, including the interaction between physical and biological processes. We discuss how the prediction of the long-term evolution of tidal networks is still limited and we focus on how it is hampered by three specific challenges. We first discuss the approach to long-term predictions, then focus on the coupling between physical and biological processes, and finally attempt to introduce the role of anthropic drivers in the evolution of these systems. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: Tidal embayments are characterized by a wide variety of landscape features, often including either complex tidal channel networks or extensive flood-tidal deltas. The origin of these features and the influence of hydrodynamic drivers and initial geological setting on their long-term characteristics are essentially unexplored. A model was applied to simulate the long-term morphological evolution of tidal embayments, with the purpose of providing insight into the environmental conditions that lead to the differences in tidal embayment morphology. Numerical simulations indicated that the interaction between hydrodynamics, sediment transport, and the evolving topography gives rise to the formation of channel networks. The tidal range and the depth of the initially unchannelized tidal basin controlled the way in which the morphology evolved and determined the timescale over which channels and intertidal areas developed. Channel network formation occurred more rapidly when the tidal range increased and/or when the initial basin depth decreased. Tidal basins with a large initial depth showed the development of a flood-tidal delta and for these deep basins channel incision could remain absent over long timescales. Both tidal range and initial bathymetry affected final basin hypsometry and channel network characteristics, including the channel density and the fraction of the basin occupied by the channels. All the simulated morphologies, with different combinations of the tidal range and depth of the basin, evolved towards a state of less morphodynamic activity for which the relative intertidal area was proportional to the ratio of tidal amplitude to basin depth. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: Alongshore variability in swash motions – shoreline oscillations about the mean water level on the beach face – were investigated using video images and a high-resolution morphology survey on an intermediate beach. Under mild, swell-dominated offshore wave conditions, alongshore variation of up to 78% in significant runup height Rs (defined as 4 times the standard deviation of the swash time series) was observed. This variation was predominantly driven by energy at the incident (>0.05Hz) frequencies (where most of the swash energy was observed), and, consistent with previous observations, was mainly controlled by changes in the slope of the beach face (measured at the mean swash location). However, alongshore patterning in wave breaking over the sandbar caused variation in the degree of wave dissipation along the beach and also resulted in alongshore changes to swash motions. Although alongshore changes in beach slope and wave breaking patterning over the bar were observed to be typically correlated, both were needed in a regression model to provide the best explaination of alongshore changes in Rs. At infragravity frequencies (<0.05Hz), alongshore variability was not well associated either with changes in beach slope or wave breaking patterning. Low-mode edge waves were observed in the swash measurements and their contribution to the total energy spectrum was greatest near the location where a shoal was observed, suggesting this shoal may play a role in forcing. The edge waves may have contributed to the swash variability observed at infragravity frequencies. However, in these reflective conditions, the infragravity band plays a secondary role in controlling alongshore variations to swash motions. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: Morphological observations (terrestrial laser scanning) and sediment analysis are used to study beach cusp morphodynamics at Melbourne Beach (Florida, USA), a moderately sloped beach characterized by fine sand. The study couples rapid high-resolution surveying with surficial sediment sampling over multiple tidal cycles. Surveys were run ~500m alongshore and sediment samples were collected intertidally over a period of 5days. Beach cusp location within larger scale beach morphology is shown to directly influence cusp growth as either gross erosional or gross accretional. Sediment characteristics within the beach cusp morphology are reported coincident with cusp evolution. Variations in particle size distribution kurtosis are exhibited as the cusps evolve, however no significant correlation is seen between grain size and position between horn and embayment. During the end of the study, a storm resulted in beach cusp destruction and increased sediment sorting. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: This paper introduces a semi-automatic computer algorithm designed to detect rip current channels in video imagery. As a case study, this method is applied to 3.3years of video data from an embayed beach to demonstrate the link between antecedent surf zone morphology, wave energy and up/down transitions in beach state. An objective measure of rip channel change was developed to define six significant rip reconfiguration events and relate these events to wave energy. Over the period of study no complete resets of the nearshore morphology occurred. The analysis indicates that direct correlation of rip patterns with the instantaneous wave conditions is not a useful way to demonstrate how rips and waves interact. The average wave energy over a period of ten days, combined with storm duration were good indicators of rip channel change, demonstrating that in general, beach morphology responds with a time lag to changes in forcing. Rip channels with a short cross-shore length and narrow alongshore spacing responded faster to changes in wave conditions than rips with a long cross-shore length and wider alongshore spacing. To force changes in the rip morphology, longer rip channels required wave events of higher energy and/or a longer duration. Offshore islands protect the beach under certain wave approach angles, sometimes resulting in a dual-width surf zone, which was narrow at the sheltered end and wide at the exposed end of the beach. The wider surf zone end was characterised by three dominant and persistent rip channels, whereas the narrow surf zone section contained a number of smaller rips which evolved rapidly under wave forcing. Our observations demonstrate the importance of rip channel size in controlling the response time of nearshore morphology. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Radial sand ridges (RSRs) spread in a fan-shaped pattern over the seabed of the southern Yellow Sea along the Jiangsu Coast (China) with pronounced differences between the northern and southern channel-shoals (indicated as “NCS” and “SCS”, respectively). A depth-averaged nested numerical model is employed to analyze the tidal hydrodynamics and sediment dynamics of the RSRs. Model results show considerable regional differences in terms of tidal current vector ellipses: “eight-shaped” ellipses are typical in the NCS where rotational tidal waves dominate, while the SCS are characterized by “egg-shaped” ellipses because of the dominance of progressive tidal waves. Sand ridges tend to be elongated and straight in the NCS while short and dincontinuous in the SCS. Numerical Lagrange particles released near the ridges in the NCS tend to travel across the crest of the ridges rather than move around them as observed in the SCS. Consistently, the patterns of sediment convergence and divergence indicate that suspended sediments converge over the whole Xiaoyinsha Ridge located in the NCS, while converge to the two sides of the Hetunsha Ridge located in the SCS. Model results also highlight the importance of initial sediment compositions in determining patterns of the net sediment fluxes. The suspended sediment concentration (SSC) time series during one tidal cycle may show single or double peaks depending on the grain size and the related lag effect. Bed load transport is much smaller than suspended load. So sediment compositions should be carefully considered when simulating the SSC field, and the hydrodynamic of the morphological evolution of the RSRs at the regional scale. Overall, this study suggests that the NCS and SCS may be treated as two relatively independent geomorphological systems characterized by different tidal flows and sediment compositions. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Abstract: The following is a white paper (adapted here for print) for the U.S. National Research Council''s committee on Challenges and Opportunities in Earth Surface Processes, drafted at a National Science Foundation sponsored workshop associated with the 38th Binghamton Geomorphology Symposium, “Complexity in Geomorphology,” held at Duke University in October 2007. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]