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Objective: Human skin is the first line of defence from environmental factors such as solar radiation and is susceptible to premature ageing, including a disruption in epidermal differentiation and homeostasis. We evaluated the impact of a Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate (GFF) on epidermal differentiation and response to oxidative stress., Methods: We used transcriptomics, both spatial and traditional, to assess the impact of GFF on epidermal biology and homeostasis in keratinocytes (primary or immortalized) and in ex vivo skin explant tissue. The effect of GFF on cell adhesion rates, cellular ATP levels and proliferation rates were quantitated. Oxidative phosphorylation and glycolytic rates were measured under normal and stress-induced conditions., Results: Transcriptomics from keratinocytes and ex vivo skin explants from multiple donors show GFF induces keratinocyte differentiation, skin barrier development and cell adhesion while simultaneously repressing cellular stress and inflammatory related processes. Spatial transcriptomics profiling of ex vivo skin indicated basal keratinocytes at the epidermal-dermal junction and cornifying keratinocytes in the top layer of the epidermis as the primary cell types influenced by GFF treatment. Additionally, GFF significantly increases crosstalk between suprabasal and basal keratinocytes. To support these findings, we show that GFF can significantly increase cell adhesion and proliferation in keratinocytes. GFF also protected overall cellular bioenergetics under metabolic or oxidative stress conditions., Conclusion: Our findings provide novel insights into cellular differences and epidermal spatial localization in response to GFF, supporting previous findings that this filtrate has a significant impact on epidermal biology and homeostasis, particularly on spatially defined crosstalk. We propose that GFF can help maintain epidermal health by enhancing keratinocyte crosstalk and differentiation/proliferation balance as well as promoting an enhanced response to stress., (© 2024 The Author(s). International Journal of Cosmetic Science published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd on behalf of Society of Cosmetic Scientists and Societe Francaise de Cosmetologie.)

Para -hydroxycinnamic acid (pHCA) is one of the most abundant naturally occurring hydroxycinnamic acids, a class of chemistries known for their antioxidant properties. In this study, we evaluated the impact of pHCA on different parameters of skin aging in in vitro skin models after H 2 O 2 and UV exposure. These parameters include keratinocyte senescence and differentiation, inflammation, and energy metabolism, as well as the underlying molecular mechanisms. Here we demonstrate that pHCA prevents oxidative stress-induced premature senescence of human primary keratinocytes in both 2D and 3D skin models, while improving clonogenicity in 2D. As aging is linked to inflammation, referred to as inflammaging, we analyzed the release of IL-6, IL-8, and PGE 2 , known to be associated with senescence. All of them were downregulated by pHCA in both normal and oxidative stress conditions. Mechanistically, DNA damage induced by oxidative stress is prevented by pHCA, while pHCA also exerts a positive effect on the mitochondrial and glycolytic functions under stress. Altogether, these results highlight the protective effects of pHCA against inflammaging, and importantly, help to elucidate its potential mechanisms of action.

Objective: To explore synergistic effects related to skin regeneration, peptides with distinct biological mechanisms of action were evaluated in combination with different skin cell lines in the presence or absence of niacinamide (Nam). Furthermore, the synergistic responses of peptide combinations on global gene expression were compared with the changes that occur with fractional laser resurfacing treatment, a gold standard approach for skin rejuvenation, to further define optimal peptide combinations., Methods: Microarray profiling was used to characterize the biological responses of peptide combinations (+/- Nam) relative to the individual components in epidermal keratinocyte and dermal fibroblast cell lines. Cellular functional assays were utilized to confirm the synergistic effects of peptide combinations. Bioinformatics approaches were used to link the synergistic effects of peptide combinations on gene expression to the transcriptomics of the skin rejuvenation response from fractional laser treatment., Results: Microarray analysis of skin cells treated with peptide combinations revealed synergistic changes in gene expression compared with individual peptide controls. Bioinformatic analysis of synergy genes in keratinocytes revealed the activation of NRF2-mediated oxidative stress responses by a combination of Ac-PPYL, Pal-KTTKS and Nam. Additional analysis revealed direct downstream transcriptional targets of NRF2/ARE exhibiting synergistic regulation by this combination of materials, which was corroborated by a cellular reporter assay. NRF2-mediated oxidative stress response pathways were also found to be activated in the transcriptomics of the early skin rejuvenation response to fractional laser treatment, suggesting the importance of this biology in the early stages of tissue repair. Additionally, the second combination of peptides (pal-KT and Ac-PPYL) was found to synergistically restore cellular ATP levels that had been depleted due to the presence of ROS, indicating an additional mechanism, whereby peptide synergies may accelerate skin repair., Conclusion: Through combinatorial synergy studies, we have identified additional in vitro skin repair mechanisms beyond the previously described functions of individual peptides and correlated these to the transcriptomics of the skin rejuvenation response of fractional laser treatment. These findings suggest that specific peptides can act together, via complementary and synergistic mechanisms, to holistically enhance the regenerative capacity of in vitro skin cells., (© 2021 The Authors. International Journal of Cosmetic Science published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd on behalf of Society of Cosmetic Scientists and Societe Francaise de Cosmetologie.)

Background: Macromolecules in skin cells are damaged when exposed to environmental stressors, leading to disrupted cellular function and homeostasis. While epidermal turnover can eliminate some of this damage, autophagy can rapidly remove these defective components. Niacinamide (Nam) is known to induce autophagy and optimizing formulations to maximize this response could provide improved homeostasis in stressed skin., Objective: To determine (i) whether Nam can induce autophagy related 5 (ATG5), an autophagy marker, in human keratinocytes and (ii) whether optimized low pH Nam formulations can enhance the response in 3D skin models., Methods: Human keratinocytes treated with Nam were evaluated for autophagosome accumulation and induction of ATG5 by gene expression, immunoblotting and immune-fluorescence microscopy. 3D skin equivalents were topically treated with Nam formulations at pH 5.8 and 3.8. Gene expression profiling and immunoblot analysis of ATG5 were performed., Results: Nam treatment of keratinocytes led to an accumulation of autophagosomes with a maximal signal at 48 h. Gene expression of ATG5 was induced by Nam, and immunoblots stained for ATG5 showed a significant increase after 6 h of treatment. Gene expression profiling of 3D epidermal skin equivalents treated with Nam at pH 3.8 showed stronger induction of autophagy-related genes, including ATG5, compared with pH 5.8 formulas. Enrichment for gene ontology terms on autophagy showed an increased linkage with Nam formulas at pH 3.8., Conclusions: We found that Nam induces autophagosome accumulation and ATG5 levels in keratinocytes. We also discovered that a Nam formulation at pH 3.8 can further increase levels of ATG5 in 3D skin models when compared to Nam at pH 5.8. These data support that Nam can induce autophagy in keratinocytes and formulations at pH 3.8 can enhance the impact. We hypothesize that optimized formulations at pH 3.8 can improve skin ageing appearance via autophagy induction., (© 2020 European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology.)

Background: Transition of hair shaft keratinocytes from actively respiring, nucleated cells to structural cells devoid of nucleus and cytoplasm is key to hair production. This form of cell 'death', or cornification, requires cellular organelle removal to allow the cytoplasm to become packed with keratin filament bundles that further require cross-linking to create a strong hair fibre. Although these processes are well described in epidermal keratinocytes, there is a lack of understanding of such mechanisms, specifically in the hair follicle., Objectives: To gain insights into cornification mechanisms within the hair follicle and thus improve our understanding of normal hair physiology., Methods: Scalp biopsies and hair-pluck samples were obtained from healthy human donors and analysed microscopically after immunohistochemical staining., Results: A focal point of respiratory activity was evident in keratogenous zone cells within the hair shaft, which also exhibited nuclear damage. Nuclear degradation occurred via both caspase-dependent and caspase-independent pathways. Conversely, mitophagy was driven by Bnip3L and restricted to the boundary of the keratogenous zone at Adamson's Fringe., Conclusions: We propose a model of stepwise living-dead transition within the first 1 mm of hair formation, whereby fully functional, nucleated cells first consolidate required functions by degrading nuclear DNA, yet continue to respire and provide the source of reactive oxygen species required for keratin cross-linking. Finally, as the cells become packed with keratin bundles, Bnip3L expression triggers mitophagy to rid the cells of the last remaining 'living' characteristic, thus completing the march from 'living' to 'dead' within the hair follicle., (© 2017 British Association of Dermatologists.)