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This article examines the clothing of landowning farmers in inland Swedish from a gendered perspective during industrialisation in the nineteenth century. It considers clothes as possessions and goods within a European framework of trade and influence. In particular, it shows how clothing was a means of expression that changed during the course of industrialisation and how gender became an important factor in the supply and making of clothes. In the region examined, clothing changed from being a local fashion, characterised by similarities in material and workmanship between men's and women's clothes, to become a part of fashion in general with its emphasis on differences between men's and women's wardrobes. In the early nineteenth century, the female wardrobe accounted for a higher value as it included a greater share of garments made of manufactured fabrics. In late nineteenth century, when industrial forestry had replaced livestock farming as the main source of income in the area, men's wardrobes grew in value due to increased demand for tailor‐made garments and purchased fabrics. By contrast, women's garments were often made of simpler fabrics and sewn by seamstresses. These changes responded to the growing breadwinner–homemaker ideal and to national‐romantic ideas about folk costume – two tendencies that emphasised female domesticity and home‐woven fabrics. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

As Australia's Second World War servicemen began returning home, many anticipated the pleasure of stepping out of their uniforms for the last time. Yet scholarship on the role clothing played in repatriation and post‐war rehabilitation in Australia remains scarce. Exploring the post‐war swing towards sportswear, the article considers the growing idea of relaxed bodies and the language of comfort that underpinned it. It argues that being attentive to men's dress allows us to engage with a reframing of attractive, able, white, heterosexual bodies that combined two icons of Australian masculinity – the Anzac and the athlete – into a more relaxed vision of manliness. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Dandyism was a spreading phenomenon in the cities of the late nineteenth century. Its more bourgeois and literary aspects are well researched, but it also influenced a number of youth subcultures that were seldom expressed in written or published forms except when journals and newspapers derided them. One of these was the character of the masher which emerged as a distinctly British variation during the middle of the century and was established as a form of popular dandy type in the 1880s. It is typical for a phenomenon like this to remain unexpressed, but a curious short-lived periodical entitled ‘The Masher’ was published in a few issues in 1883 during the height of the masher culture’s popularity. Through a study of the issues of this journal and the contents of its articles, this article aims at contemplating masher culture as a specific male subculture and testing the notion that this journal was a manifestation of it. Considering aspects of gender, performativity, dress and cultures of frivolity, the discussion centres around the self-irony and affectedness of the masher role, and its relation to other forms of more respectable dandyism. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This article is about the clothing of country gentlemen in late seventeenth and early eighteenth century England. It begins with an exploration of the London-centric depiction in popular literature of country gentlemen as old fashioned in their manners, dress and lifestyle. It then explores the main elements of male fashion and the role of London in creating and disseminating it. Drawing on surviving clothing accounts, it subsequently offers a detailed analysis of what a number of country gentlemen were wearing during this period, exploring the extent to which they participated in London's fashion culture and their preferences for London-bought clothing. [ABSTRACT FROM PUBLISHER]

In 1920 the remains of a body were discovered, buried in peat moss at Quintfall Hill on the Barrock Estate, near Keiss, Caithness, Scotland. The corporeal remains and the clothing were transferred to the National Museum of Scotland in Edinburgh where they remain to this day. Shortly after the find, an account of the discovery appeared in the Journal of the Antiquaries of Scotland, but apart from passing reference, very little further consideration was given to these clothes. In this article, the first of two dealing with this topic, the clothing finds are described and discussed in the context of other Scottish finds of the periodc. 1700 and in relation to contemporary observations and descriptions of dress found across the Scottish mainland and in its outlying Islands. The garments will also be considered in relation to the dominant historical dress narrative, which has been based largely on elite clothing. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This article examines the cultural significance of the stocking as an essential accessory of an eighteenth-century man's attire. Rooted in a material understanding of the stocking through extant garments and archival accounts, this discussion broadens to consider the stocking as a form of cultural currency that spanned visual and popular culture in the eighteenth century. An analysis of the stocking's visual representation in painted portraiture and graphic satire reveals how it acted as a barometer for British masculinity and subsequently as a visual indicator for the health of the nation, which directly correlated with the stocking's position and pattern of wear on the leg. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This paper describes the cut and construction of the doublet and hose worn as underdress to the robes and insignia of the Knights of the Most Noble Order of the Garter at the English Court under Charles II. This example belonged to Charles Stuart, sixth Duke of Lennox and third Duke of Richmond (1639-1672), who was created a knight of the Garter in 1661. It is interesting on several counts: the dominant textile is a very pure cloth of silver; the elaborate hose are constructed with reference to earlier seventeenth-century models; the garments exemplify Charles II's understanding of the importance of ceremony to successful kingship. The suit was conserved for an exhibition at the National Museum of Scotland in Edinburgh and the essay gives some account of discoveries made through this process. In addition, the garments are placed in the context of late seventeenth-century dress. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This article maps the looks and lifestyle choices of small groups of young, like-minded people who emerged in the postwar Soviet Union and East Europe in the background of huge political, social, and cultural changes. With their androgynous bodies wrapped in drape jackets and narrow trousers, and their love of jazz and swing, these young men stood in a sharp contrast to the official ideology that promoted socialism as a new, pure, and highly rationalized project, its ideal robust and strong man, and its mass culture that insisted on educational and restrained forms of entertainment. Through the categories of dress, body, and big city, the article investigates the clashes, and the eventual truce, between the socialist streamlined and rationalized master narrative and the young dandies' fragmented and disordered narrative. The article argues that the socialist dandies were not politically minded, and that their challenge to the officially proclaimed values was informed by their adolescent recklessness and a general postwar desolation. They were declared state enemies because the socialist regimes did not allow for alternative types of modernity. Consequently, the authorities condemned the young dandies' looks and interests as cosmopolitan, because they originated in the West, and as artificial, since they belonged to the culture that had preceded a new socialist world. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The article discusses the clothing, armor, and personal appearance of the Italian statesman Vicenzo Gonzaga, duke of Mantua, Italy, and later ruler of Milan, Italy. The nature, origin, and quality of the materials used for the duke's clothing are described after an overview of the political importance of the duke, his social standing, and his relation to 16th century Italian fashion.

The article provides information on ancient Greek dress. It explains the process for producing textile garments, particularly with woollen cloth. It also describes the basic garment for both sexes and how it is worn. It also features different garments that are worn by Greek gods and goddesses, including the himation for men, chlamys or a Thessalian short cloak, and the peplos for women.