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Natural dyes are not harmful to the environment owing to their biodegradability. For dye application to textiles, salts are necessary as mordant or electrolytes and make an environmental impact. In this paper, the influence of cationization during mercerization to the dyeing of cotton fabric with natural dye from Dactylopius coccus was researched. For this purpose, bleached cotton fabric as well as fabric cationized with Rewin OS was pre-mordanted using iron(II) sulfate heptahydrate (FeSO4·7H2O) and dyed with natural cochineal dye with and without electrolyte addition. For the characterization of surface changes after cationization, an electrokinetic analysis on SurPASS was performed and compared to pre-mordanting. For determination of dye exhaustion, the analysis of dye solution was performed on a UV/VIS spectrophotometer Cary 50 Solascreen. Spectrophotometric analysis was performed using a Datacolor 850 spectrophotometer, measuring remission "until tolerance" and the whiteness degree, color parameters, color depth (K/S), and colorfastness of dyed fabric were calculated. Levelness was determined by visual assessment. Cationized cotton fabrics showed better absorption and colorfastness. Pre-mordanting and cationization showed synergism. The electrolytes improved the process of dye absorption. However, when natural dyeing was performed on cotton fabric cationized during mercerization, similar chromacity, uniform color, and colorfastness were achieved with and without electrolyte, resulting in pure purple hue of cochineal. For achieving a violet hue, pre-mordanting with Fe-salt was needed. Therefore, salt can be reduced or even unnecessary, which makes this process of natural dyeing more environmentally friendly. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This article deals with cationization of cotton during mercerization and its effects on trichromatic vat dyeing. If cationization is carried out during the after-treatment, regardless of cotton pretreatment, the reaction takes place on the surface and blocks cellulose groups, subsequently resulting in uneven coloration. However, when cationization is carried out with an epihalohydrin during the mercerization process, new cellulose is formed in which the cationic compound is uniformly distributed and trapped between cellulose chains, resulting in uniform coloration after the dyeing process. The reaction time for the process during mercerization is 24 h, thus a more favorable process was researched. Based on electrokinetic analysis, it was found that 5 h was sufficient for the reaction with 3-chloro-2-hydroxypropyltrimethyl ammonium chloride (CHPTAC). The cationization of cotton contributed to the processes of vat dyeing. The change in charge upon cationization resulted in very high adsorption of vat-dye anions, indicating that ionic bonding occurred in addition to van der Waals forces. The color depth improved by more than 10 times. It should be emphasized that the colors with higher chroma and targeted color hue, especially in trichromatic dyeing, were obtained on cationized cotton, in contrast to standard cotton fabrics. The color differences obtained under the different light sources indicate the occurrence of metamerism. Considering the color fastness to laundering, vat-dyed cationized fabrics of all colors may be used in hospitals or other environments where high hygiene and oxidative bleaching are required. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]