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Shipwrecks are an integral part of our maritime archaeological landscape and are associated with diverse societal and cultural interests, yielding significant management challenges. Coupled hydrodynamic and geomorphological processes significantly impact the effective in situ preservation of these fragile sites. In this study, we assess sediment budget change and hydrodynamic triggers at metal‐hulled shipwrecks lost between 1875 and 1918, all located in the tidally dominated Irish Sea at depths between 26 and 84 m. This is conducted using time‐lapse, multibeam echosounder surveys at multiannual, annual, and weekly time steps, supported by sediment grain‐size analysis, modeled ocean currents, and shallow seismic data. Results indicate significant changes at all time steps for sites located in sand‐dominated environments, whereas the seabed around shipwrecks settled in multimodal sediments shows virtually no change outside of measurement errors (±30 cm). Variability in geomorphic change is attributed to local environmental factors, including bed shear stress, sediment supply, and spatial barriers to scour. We demonstrate that individual wrecks in similar shelf sea regions can be in very different equilibrium states, which has critical implications for the in situ management of underwater cultural heritage. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In southeastern Brazil, the Serra do Mar coastal mountain range blocks the sediment influx from arriving at a ca. 1,500 km long continental margin comprising Santos and Pelotas basins. Despite this deprivation, the margin accumulated a ca. 1 km thick sedimentary succession since the Mid‐Miocene. Examination of seismic reflection and oceanographic data indicates that shelf‐margin clinoform formation exhibits a regional variability, with major sigmoidal clinoforms developed in the transitional area between both basins. Laterally, poorly developed oblique clinoforms constitute isolated depocenters along the shelf margin. The continuous clinoform development in the transitional area is attributed to the major influence on sediment transport patterns of several ocean bottom currents flowing along the margin, such as the Brazil Coastal Current, the Brazil Current and the Intermediate Water Brazil Current. These currents erode, transport and distribute sediments across the shelf break and upper slope from distant sediment sources located either north or south of the study area. The progressive southward strengthening of the Brazil Current could be responsible for a major southward sediment redistribution from the northern Campos Basin, and/or for sediment entrainment from northward‐induced transport by the Brazil Coastal Current, originally derived from the De la Plata Estuary. In the transition between Santos and Pelotas basins, the Intermediate Water Brazil Current splits forming the Santos Bifurcation, allowing for a continuous depositional process and clinoform generation. We suggest that ocean bottom currents may shape other shelf‐edge 'contouritic clinoforms' in continental margins mainly constructed by along‐strike sediment transport largely driven by long‐term geostrophic currents. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Fifteen monthly field surveys were conducted from September 2012 to November 2013 at ten representative stations along a cross-shore profile, covering the entire tidal flat. Results indicate that tidal currents significantly affect bed level variations over bare flats, while subsurface processes (e.g., soil subsidence and expansion) are likely to play an important role in changing the bed level of the upper intertidal flat where salt marshes are present. The cross-shore profile shows a clear double-convex shape, and different geomorphic zones display distinctive variation. Above the mean high water level (MHWL), the bed level is generally stable. The region around the MHWL, where the upper convex point is present, is a location of high sedimentation due to the weaker hydrodynamic conditions and the settling and scour lag effects, it keeps growing with the increase of inundation frequency. A concave point occurs in the middle part of the intertidal flat, showing considerable erosion. Near the mean low water level (MLWL), the lower convex point is elevated due to the long-shore tidal current and associated sediment transport (the flood dominated transport during summer exceeds the ebb dominated transport during winter, hence the net effect favors sedimentation). Further seawards, the area below the MLWL is strongly eroded. The cross-shore profile follows a “stable-accretional-erosional-accretional-erosional” sequence. Overall, the measurements indicate that the interplay among vegetation, hydrodynamics and sediment transport is critical in shaping the cross-shore morphology of the intertidal flats along the Jiangsu coast of China. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Estimating the erosion potential of seabed sediments and the magnitude of the resulting suspended load in relation to current dynamics near the shelf break is a key issue for better understanding shelf-slope sediment transport. On the outer Mackenzie Shelf (Canadian Beaufort Sea, Arctic Ocean), a thin and discontinuous veneer of recent surficial clays overlie old glaciomarine sediments that further pinch out at the shelf edge. Gas and fluid venting is known to underlie part of sediment instability in the area, but recent mooring-based measurements also indicate that sediments near the shelf break are recurrently remobilized by strong subsurface currents. Here, we relate storms to the development of current surges that resulted in the abrupt resuspension of sediments at two locations along the shelf break. Near-bottom concentrations of suspended sediments were estimated using the acoustic backscatter of high-frequency acoustic Doppler current profilers deployed from September 2011 to September 2013 as part of the Beaufort Regional Environmental Assessment (BREA) program. Near-bottom currents near the shelf edge (140 to 150 m isobaths) were characterized by recurring episodes of elevated velocities (instantaneous speeds up to ~ 40-50 cm s -1 ) that were extensions of current surges (~ 60-80 cm s -1 ) occurring in the core of the shelfbreak jet located at ca. 90-120 m. Sudden peaks in suspended sediments (above 100 g m -3 ) corresponded closely with current surges in the near-bottom boundary layer (< 10 m) implying the local erosion of surficial sediments and the rapid advection or redeposition of the resuspended sediments. A range of apparent threshold velocities from 18 to 36 cm s -1 was calculated based on the relationship between suspended sediment concentrations and near-bottom current speeds. Two meteorological scenarios were identified to explain the current surges underlying these erosion events at the shelf edge: (1) Pacific or Arctic-born low pressure systems that propagate into the southern Beaufort Sea and are associated with intense downwelling-favorable westerly winds. These amplify the eastward-setting shelfbreak jet along the upper slope, such as in September 2012 when successive cyclones developed during the record-low sea ice extent. (2) The persistence of a high-pressure system over the Beaufort Sea that causes strong upwelling-favorable easterly winds and a strengthening of anti-cyclonic ice motion. This induces a reversal of the shelfbreak jet to the west and a subsequent eastward-directed relaxation flow when the winds fade, such as during the major ice fracturing events of January to March 2013 that were associated with strong and persistent current speeds. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Abstract: The effect of streaming on the sea bed boundary layer flow beneath combined waves and current has been investigated for waves following and opposing a current, taking both linear waves and second order Stokes waves into account. This flow results from an interaction between the classical wave–current seabed boundary layer mechanism and two different streaming mechanisms. The classical wave–current seabed boundary layer mechanism leads to a reduced mean velocity relative to the current alone; the two streaming mechanisms are streaming caused by turbulence asymmetry in successive wave half-cycles (beneath asymmetric forcing) and streaming caused by the presence of a vertical wave velocity within the seabed boundary layer as earlier explained by Longuet-Higgins. The effect of wave asymmetry, wave length to water depth ratio, magnitude of current and bottom roughness have been investigated by numerical simulations for realistic physical situations. Mean Eulerian quantities as well as the mass transport (wave-averaged Lagrangian velocity) are presented. The resulting sediment dynamics near the ocean bottom has been investigated; results for both suspended load and bedload are presented. For wave dominated situations, the velocity profiles beneath opposing waves and current are substantially different from those beneath following waves and current, both for linear and second order Stokes waves. As the flow becomes current dominated, the velocity profiles beneath opposing and following waves and current approach the velocity profile beneath horizontally uniform sinusoidal forcing. The net transport of suspended sediments and bedload is in the direction of the current both for waves following and opposing the current. For wave dominated situations the net sediment transport is strongly affected by the streaming mechanisms, both for linear and second order Stokes waves and current. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

The extent of multi-year sea ice impacts climate processes worldwide, such as ocean-atmosphere carbon dioxide exchange and deep ocean current formation. Reconstructing these processes in the past, and assessing the distribution of ecologically and climatically significant features, such as polynas, requires recognition of sediments deposited under multi-year sea ice, but little is known about their characteristics. Textural analysis of subaerial and sea floor sediment in Explorers Cove, McMurdo Sound, at the mouth of Taylor Valley, Antarctica, augmented with observations of sedimentary structures and faunal components, elucidates how sediment is transported to the sea floor and allows characterization of the deposits. Comparison of grain-size characteristics of subaerial (moraine, delta and sea-ice surface) sediment and sea floor sediment from short cores taken at depths of 7 to 25 m indicates that the likely source of the moderately to poorly sorted sea floor sand is deltaic sediment; small glacial meltwater streams have built deltas since Taylor Valley became ice-free ca 7000 years ago. Windblown sediment accumulating on the multi-year sea ice close to the coast typically is coarser grained than sediment on the sea floor; this suggests that the transport of sediment through the ice to the sea floor is not the predominant mode of sediment transfer. However, supra-sea-ice sediment does move to the sea floor through local fractures. The rate of sedimentation under multi-year sea ice is low because of limited stream flow and biogenic sedimentation; the ice cover inhibits primary productivity and dampens waves, precluding physical re-suspension. The upper centimetres of sea floor sediment are churned by epifaunal scallops and brittle stars that leave no telltale biogenic structures and whose calcite ossicles and shells may be poorly preserved. The resulting deposits under multi-year sea ice are poorly sorted, massive sand that provides little evidence of the bioturbators that have masked the indicators of the original physical depositional processes. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The boundary layer characteristics beneath waves transforming on a natural beach are affected by both waves and wave-induced currents, and their predictability is more difficult and challenging than for those observed over a seabed of uniform depth. In this research, a first-order boundary layer model is developed to investigate the characteristics of bottom boundary layers in a wave-current coexisting environment beneath shoaling and breaking waves. The main difference between the present modeling approach and previous methods is in the mathematical formulation for the mean horizontal pressure gradient term in the governing equations for the cross-shore wave-induced currents. This term is obtained from the wave-averaged momentum equation, and its magnitude depends on the balance between the wave excess momentum flux gradient and the hydrostatic pressure gradient due to spatial variations in the wave field of propagating waves and mean water level fluctuations. A turbulence closure scheme is used with a modified low Reynolds number k- ε model. The model was validated with two published experimental datasets for normally incident shoaling and breaking waves over a sloping seabed. For shoaling waves, model results agree well with data for the instantaneous velocity profiles, oscillatory wave amplitudes, and mean velocity profiles. For breaking waves, a good agreement is obtained between model and data for the vertical distribution of mean shear stress. In particular, the model reproduced the local onshore mean flow near the bottom beneath shoaling waves, and the vertically decreasing pattern of mean shear stress beneath breaking waves. These successful demonstrations for wave-current bottom boundary layers are attributed to a novel formulation of the mean pressure gradient incorporated in the present model. The proposed new formulation plays an important role in modeling the boundary layer characteristics beneath shoaling and breaking waves, and ensuring that the present model is applicable to nearshore sediment transport and morphology evolution. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In a weakly nonlinear tidal system, the depth-averaged equations for the first-order Lagrangian residual velocity (LRV) are deduced systematically. For the case of a narrow bay, the equations are solved analytically and the results for a specific bottom profile are discussed in detail. According to the pattern of the first-order LRV, the bay can be divided into three parts, namely an inner part, a transitional zone, and an outer part. For the given depth profile, the streamline of the first-order LRV for a shorter bay is a part of that for a longer bay. The first-order LRV depends on a nondimensional parameter that combines the influences of the bottom friction coefficient, the tidal period and the averaged water depth. The form of the bottom friction also has a significant influence on the first-order LRV. The second-order LRV, i.e., the Lagrangian drift, is analytically solved and shows dependence on the initial tidal phase. The LRV differs from the Eulerian residual transport velocity both quantitatively and qualitatively. It is demonstrated that the residual currents obtained according to other definitions may cause misunderstanding of the mass transport in water exchange applications. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Geological investigations conducted over a vast seabed offshore the giant Saemangeum Dike on the west coast of Korea indicate that the surface area of fine to very fine sands has rapidly expanded southward in recent years (2002-2008). To unravel the processes responsible for this phenomenon, two field campaigns of hydrodynamic measurements were carried out at the same station with an instrumented tripod during May 2007 and January 2008. The measurements show the definite occurrence of wind-generated residual currents that were more distinctive and consistent during winter compared with the relatively weak, inconsistent analogues of the late-spring season. The simple algebraic calculations for bedload transport based on a cubic relationship between the bedload transport rate and steady currents suggest that the southward movements of surface sands result from interplay of wintertime residual currents and macrotidal currents. In addition, numerical model experiments illuminate that the dike construction has increased the N-S component of tidal currents over the study area. The sediment transport evaluations further suggest that this artificial increase in tidal currents in the N-S direction could considerably enhance southward sand transport. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The interaction among tidal currents, sediment transport, and long-term changes of the sea bottom in the Colorado River Delta have been investigated applying a two dimensional nonlinear hydrodynamic-numerical finite differences model. The system was forced by the dominant M 2 tidal component at the open boundary. We carried out calculations to study the morphodynamics of the actual bathymetry caused by the bedload sediment transport. To investigate the origin of actual morphological features, we performed experiments using a smoothed bathymetry, in which the islands Montague, Gore, and Pelícano were eliminated. Under the imposed tidal hydrodynamics, the results indicate that the bedload transport contributes significantly in the genesis of sandbanks and in the formation and maintaining of the Montague and Gore Islands. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Submarine landslides can generate sediment-laden flows whose scale is impressive. Individual flow deposits have been mapped that extend for 1,500 km offshore from northwest Africa. These are the longest run-out sediment density flow deposits yet documented on Earth. This contribution analyses one of these deposits, which contains ten times the mass of sediment transported annually by all of the world’s rivers. Understanding how this type of submarine flow evolves is a significant problem, because they are extremely difficult to monitor directly. Previous work has shown how progressive disintegration of landslide blocks can generate debris flow, the deposit of which extends downslope from the original landslide. We provide evidence that submarine flows can produce giant debris flow deposits that start several hundred kilometres from the original landslide, encased within deposits of a more dilute flow type called turbidity current. Very little sediment was deposited across the intervening large expanse of sea floor, where the flow was locally very erosive. Sediment deposition was finally triggered by a remarkably small but abrupt decrease in sea-floor gradient from 0.05° to 0.01°. This debris flow was probably generated by flow transformation from the decelerating turbidity current. The alternative is that non-channelized debris flow left almost no trace of its passage across one hundred kilometres of flat (0.2° to 0.05°) sea floor. Our work shows that initially well-mixed and highly erosive submarine flows can produce extensive debris flow deposits beyond subtle slope breaks located far out in the deep ocean. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Abstract: Several knickpoints have been identified along the present-day thalweg of a sinuous submarine channel–levee system (CLS) on the slope of the western Niger Delta using 3D seismic data. The knickpoints form as a result of gradient changes caused by the uplift of a thrust and fold belt orthogonal to the CLS. The channel gradient is lower locally upstream of folds causing turbidity currents within the channel to decelerate and deposit the coarsest sediment load. The basinward dipping fold limb causes local steepening of the gradient, which leads to increased flow velocity and turbulence within the turbidity currents. This enhances erosion at the base of the channel and leads to the formation of a knickpoint. If preserved, e.g., as a result of channel avulsion or abandonment, the deposits upstream of the knickpoints could constitute an important hydrocarbon reservoir element. They can, however, also be partially eroded by headward-migrating knickpoints, as the channel strives to regain its equilibrium profile, leaving remnant sand pockets preserved on channel margins. Although knickpoints are difficult to recognise from subsurface seismic or outcrop data, it is anticipated that they can form at any stage of the evolution of a channel–levee system and may be particularly important in controlling 3D channel architecture where channels intersect dynamically changing seabed bathymetry. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]