Search

An estuarine turbidity maximum (ETM) results from various subtidal sediment transport mechanisms related to, e.g., river, tides, and density gradients, which have been extensively analysed in single-channel estuaries. However, ETMs have also been found in estuaries composed of multiple interconnected tidal channels, where the water and suspended fine sediments are exchanged at the junctions with possible occurrence of sediment overspill. The overall aim of this study is to understand the processes that determine the ETM dynamics in such channel networks. Specifically, focusing on the ETMs formation due to sediment transport by river flow and density-driven flow, the dependence of ETM locations in an idealised three-channel network on fluvial sediment input and the local deepening and narrowing of a seaward channel is investigated. It is found that the ETM dynamics in channels of a network is coupled, and hence, changes in one channel affect the ETM pattern in all channels. Sensitivity results show that, keeping river discharge fixed, a larger fluvial sediment input leads to the upstream shift of ETMs and an increase in the overall sediment concentration. Both deepening or narrowing of a seaward channel may influence the ETMs in the entire network. Furthermore, the effect of either deepening or narrowing of a seaward channel on the ETM locations in the network depends on the system geometry and the dominant hydrodynamic conditions. Therefore, the response of the ETM location to local geometric changes is explained by analysing the dominant sediment transport mechanisms. In addition to the convergence of sediment transport mechanisms in single-estuarine channels, ETM dynamics in networks is found to be strongly affected by net exchange of sediment between the branches of a network. We find that considering the sensitivity of net sediment transport to geometric changes is needed to understand the changing ETM dynamics observed in a real estuarine network.

Double sandbar systems often characterize the surf zone of wave-dominated beaches and display a variety of poorly explained spatial configurations. Here, we explore the morphodynamic stability of double-barred beaches using a model based on linear stability analysis. Surf zone hydrodynamics are described by coupling depth and wave-averaged conservation of mass and momentum with the wave energy and phase equations, including roller dynamics. A simplified sediment transport formulation relates flow to seabed changes. Under normal wave incidence, an alongshore uniform coast with a cross-shore profile characterized by the presence of two sandbars can be unstable, thereby resulting in the development of crescentic and/or rip channel patterns. Our study demonstrates that sandbar coupling can be either in phase (highs and lows of both sandbars are at the same alongshore position) or out of phase (highs and lows of one sandbar correspond to lows and highs of the other sandbar). In line with observations, results of simulations show a large variability in the possible emerging bottom patterns. Our analysis indicates that modes of which the amplitude of the inner sandbar perturbation is larger than that of the outer sandbar are dominant for large height–depth differences between the two sandbar crests and small offshore wave heights. Patterns related to the outer sandbar dominate for small values of the difference in sandbar depth. For intermediate differences between the two sandbar depths, patterns on both longshore bars appear to be fully coupled (similar growth rates and strongly correlated pattern shapes). For relatively large waves and large depth over the outer sandbar, patterns can also develop close to the shoreline and/or inner surf zone together with patterns in the inner or outer sandbar.

For well-mixed estuaries, key physical mechanisms are identified and quantified that cause changes in characteristics of the semi-diurnal sea surface elevation and lateral velocity due to modifications of the lateral bottom profile, channel deepening, and sea level rise. This is done by decomposing solutions of a new analytical model into components relating to different physical processes. The default geometry and parameter values are representative for the Ems estuary, with a converging width and a reflective landward boundary. The default Gaussian lateral bottom profile is modified to obtain profiles with the same cross-sectional area, but with a different skewness or steepness. Results show that a steeper lateral bottom profile leads to amplification of the sea surface elevation. The width convergence is shown to influence the resonance characteristics. Channel deepening and sea level rise result in amplification of the sea surface elevation until a resonance peak is reached. When flooding is incorporated, the amount of sea level rise at which maximum tidal amplification occurs is found to be about two times lower. When using a symmetric Gaussian bottom profile, the lateral tidal flow is determined by Coriolis deflection of longitudinal flow and lateral density gradients caused by differential salt advection. However, an additional lateral tidal flow component incorporating the effect of continuity related to sea level variations and longitudinal gradients in longitudinal flow is shown to become increasingly important for skewed lateral bottom profiles. Furthermore, the lateral flow due to the lateral density gradient is enhanced for bottom profiles with increased steepness.

This review highlights the important role of the depth-averaged sediment concentration (DASC) to understand the formation of a number of coastal morphodynamic features that have an alongshore rhythmic pattern: beach cusps, surf zone transverse and crescentic bars, and shoreface-connected sand ridges. We present a formulation and methodology, based on the knowledge of the DASC (which equals the sediment load divided by the water depth), that has been successfully used to understand the characteristics of these features. These sand bodies, relevant for coastal engineering and other disciplines, are located in different parts of the coastal zone and are characterized by different spatial and temporal scales, but the same technique can be used to understand them. Since the sand bodies occur in the presence of depth-averaged currents, the sediment transport approximately equals a sediment load times the current. Moreover, it is assumed that waves essentially mobilize the sediment, and the current increases this mobilization and advects the sediment. In such conditions, knowing the spatial distribution of the DASC and the depth-averaged currents induced by the forcing (waves, wind, and pressure gradients) over the patterns allows inferring the convergence/divergence of sediment transport. Deposition (erosion) occurs where the current flows from areas of high to low (low to high) values of DASC. The formulation and methodology are especially useful to understand the positive feedback mechanisms between flow and morphology leading to the formation of those morphological features, but the physical mechanisms for their migration, their finite-amplitude behavior and their decay can also be explored.

The evolution of shoreface-connected sand ridges on micro-tidal inner shelves and the variations in the mean grain size over these ridges are investigated with process-based models. A review of previous studies is presented, as well as new results that concern the influence of grain sorting on the finite-amplitude behaviour of the ridges, the application of the model to La Barrosa beach and the role of wave-topography feedbacks. The ridges initially form due to morphodynamic self-organisation, in which the presence of waves and a storm-driven current are crucial. Predicted growth time scales, migration speeds, topography and spatial pattern of the mean grain size agree with field data collected on micro-tidal shelves in the case that both bedload and suspended load sediment transport are accounted for, together with spatially non-uniform wave orbital motion. The model can not successfully explain the presence of large-scale ridges observed on La Barrosa inner shelf, because strong and complex behaving tidal currents occur in that area. Nonlinear model simulations show that on the long term the height of the ridges evolves towards a finite, constant value, whilst their migration speed hardly changes during the evolution. In the saturated stage the ridges have asymmetrical profiles, with steep slopes on the downstream sides. The maximum variation in mean grain size also tends to a constant value and during the evolution the spatial lag between the patterns in the mean grain size and topography decreases. The processes that cause these changes are identified and explained. Model results can be obtained for transverse bottom slopes up to 50% of their observed values on micro-tidal shelves. Extrapolation of results to realistic values of the inner shelf slope yields, in case of Long Island shelf, a final height that agrees with observed ridge heights, but the modelled variation in mean grain size is small compared to field data. Finally, the response of ridges to large-scale interventions is considered. Experiments reveal that extraction of sand on the inner shelf causes a decrease of the sand volume stored in the surf zone.

A simple morphological model is considered which describes the interaction between a tidal flow and an erodible bed in a shallow sea. The basic state of this model describes a spatially uniform tide over a flat bottom where the flow vector is represented as a tidal ellipse. The linear stability of this solution is analysed with respect to bed form perturbations. Results are presented for both a uni-directional and circular tide. In the former case the wave-length and the orientation of the fastest growing bed mode agree well with those of tidal sand banks. However, this model only predicts the growth of large-scale sand ridges. With a simplified numerical model we tentatively show that the effects of secondary currents on the sediment transport trigger the formation of instabilities at an essentially smaller scale, viz, sand waves. Another limitation of a model with uni-directional tides is that no selective modes found are the first to become unstable if the model parameters are varied. In the case of a circular tide, critical model parameters are found below which the basic state is stable. We conclude that this provides a starting point for the development of a weakly non-linear analysis, which will yield information on the amplitude behaviour of marginally growing bed forms.

For well-mixed estuaries, key physical mechanisms are identified and quantified that cause changes in characteristics of the semi-diurnal sea surface elevation and lateral velocity due to modifications of the lateral bottom profile, channel deepening, and sea level rise. This is done by decomposing solutions of a new analytical model into components relating to different physical processes. The default geometry and parameter values are representative for the Ems estuary, with a converging width and a reflective landward boundary. The default Gaussian lateral bottom profile is modified to obtain profiles with the same cross-sectional area, but with a different skewness or steepness. Results show that a steeper lateral bottom profile leads to amplification of the sea surface elevation. The width convergence is shown to influence the resonance characteristics. Channel deepening and sea level rise result in amplification of the sea surface elevation until a resonance peak is reached. When flooding is incorporated, the amount of sea level rise at which maximum tidal amplification occurs is found to be about two times lower. When using a symmetric Gaussian bottom profile, the lateral tidal flow is determined by Coriolis deflection of longitudinal flow and lateral density gradients caused by differential salt advection. However, an additional lateral tidal flow component incorporating the effect of continuity related to sea level variations and longitudinal gradients in longitudinal flow is shown to become increasingly important for skewed lateral bottom profiles. Furthermore, the lateral flow due to the lateral density gradient is enhanced for bottom profiles with increased steepness.