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The stable isotope technique provides the possibility to trace ancient textiles because the technique is associated with advantages such as trace indication, fast detection, and accurate results. Since different cocooning conditions may impact cocoons even under identical habitats, it is important to investigate the effects of different cocooning temperatures and humidity on the isotope incorporation values in the cocoons. In this study, silk fibers were reeled under different conditions of temperature and humidity, followed by analysis of the secondary structure of cocoon proteins and isotope incorporation patterns. We found that the deviations in carbon isotope values of silk under different cocooning conditions could reach up to 0.76‰, while the deviation in carbon isotope values at different locations of a single silk was 2.75‰. Further, during the cocooning process, depletion of the 13C-isotope at different locations of the silk fibers was observed, reducing the δ13C values. We proposed that the changes in carbon isotopes in silk were related to the content of sericin and silk fibroin in silk. Finally, we did not observe a significant difference in isotope ratios in degummed cocoons. In summary, the 13C isotope was enriched in sericin, whereas 15N was enriched in fibroin, and these findings provide basic information for tracing the provenance of silks. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A large number of Southern Song dynasty costumes were unearthed from Huangsheng tomb in Fuzhou city, Fujian province. The unlined clothing was among the funeral objects, and made of the most common leno fabric, which was light and transparent, and the clothing was in extremely poor condition. To protect the unlined clothing, scientific evaluation and protection were carried out. Three‐dimensional microscopy was used to analyse the weave structure and X‐ray fluorescence spectroscopy (XRF) and indirect enzyme‐linked immunosorbent assay (iELISA) were used to analyse scientifically the printed gold and colour paint components of the unlined clothing. The results showed that the structure of the unlined clothing was a two‐warp twisted leno, the printed gold contained Au, Cu, Fe and other elements, the coloured paint contained Pb and Hg elements, and the binding material component of the coloured paint was type I collagen. Based on the results of the analysis, the silk fibroin consolidation method was used to improve resistance to the stress and strain caused by the needle–thread repair method, and the needle–thread repair method was then used to restore the original clothing shape. This study provides a new approach for the protection of fragile silk fabrics in the future. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The characterization of ancient silk provides significant historical information and contribute to the identification of the origin of the material. At present, there are many ways to characterize silk. However, on-site identification of ancient silk remains a crucial challenge. In this study, a paper chromatography system consisting of a colloidal gold immunochromatographic strip (GICS) and a time-resolved fluorescence immunochromatographic strip (TICS) is proposed to meet this challenge. On the basis of the original paper chromatography technique, a monoclonal antibody against silk fibroin (SF) was prepared and applied in this new paper chromatography system. Both the GICS and the TICS showed good sensitivity, specificity and reliability, with the limit of detection for silk fibroin being 30 μg/mL and 49.20 ng/mL, respectively. Moreover, there was no cross reaction with possible interferents. Furthermore, the GICS had acceptable thermal stability. The recovery of the TICS assay was in the range from 98.12% to 103%, and the variation coefficient was from 5.34% to 6.93%. This work significantly improves access to scientific information at archaeological sites, providing new scientific evidence for exploring the origin and transmission roadmap of ancient silk. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The ultrasensitive detection of fibroin in unearthed silk relics has great significance for investigating the origin and transmission of silk. In this study, an anti-fibroin monoclonal antibody was successfully prepared through animal immunization. Next, a label-free electrochemical immunosensor was fabricated using layer-by-layer self-assembly technology, and an indirect enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA) was proposed. The two methods exhibited excellent sensitivity and specificity in the detection of silk fibroin, while the immunosensor showed a wider quantitative detection range (0.1–100 ng mL−1) and a lower detection limit (0.051 ng mL−1) than ELISA (10–100 ng mL−1 and 8.71 ng mL−1). Furthermore, the performance of the immunosensor was superior in archaeological sample detection. Taking advantage of the well-prepared monoclonal antibody, the two proposed immunological assays demonstrate tremendous potential for the ultrasensitive detection of silk fibroin, which can make great contributions to exploring the origin and transmission routes of ancient silks. • Ultrasensitive detection for ancient silk has great significance to investigate the origin and transmission of silk. • A specific anti-fibroin monoclonal antibody was well designed and prepared. • A novel label-free electrochemical immunosensor and an indirect ELISA were proposed. • The immunosensor exhibited a low detection limit of 0.051 ng mL−1 for silk fibroin detection. • The performance of the immunosensor was excellent in qualitative and quantitative tests of ancient silks. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]