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Strategies for successful aging, including the use of food supplements, are part of the approach to support skin youthfulness. To demonstrate the efficacy of fermented bilberry extract (FBE) against skin aging and uneven complexion, a clinical trial was carried out on 66 subjects with visible "crow's feet" wrinkles, mild-to-moderate skin slackness, and uneven skin tone. The wrinkle depth, skin smoothness (Ra) and roughness (Rz), skin firmness (R0) and elasticity (R2), skin coloration (ITA°), and skin antioxidant capacity were measured before and after 28 (D28), 56 (D56), and 84 (D84) days of product use (either FBE or a placebo). These parameters were also integrated with a clinical evaluation, carried out by a dermatologist, and a self-assessment questionnaire to align the measured efficacy with the visual or perceived efficacy. At D84, the wrinkle depth had decreased by 10.6%, Ra had improved by 7.9%, Rz had decreased by 7.3%, R0 had improved by 13.3%, R2 had improved by 12.4%, and skin antioxidant capacity had increased by 20.8%. ITA° increased by 20.8% and was accompanied by a decrease in the skin's redness component by 16.8% and an increase in the lightness component by 2.2%. The variation of all the above-mentioned parameters was statistically significant between the FBE and PL groups. Our findings demonstrate the efficacy of FBE in improving skin aging and complexion evenness.

Background: Aging, menopause, and seasonal changes alter the lipid composition of the outermost skin layer, the stratum corneum, resulting in dry and itchy skin., Aims: This clinical trial aimed at evaluating the effects of a wheat polar lipid complex (WPLC) on skin characteristics in women showing dry and wrinkled skin, investigating its effects in a subgroup of postmenopausal women, and assessing if benefits were maintained after supplementation., Methods: Seventy-two women with dry and wrinkled skin were recruited in this double-blind, randomized, parallel-group study, and allocated to three groups of 24 subjects, each including at least 10 postmenopausal women. For 56 days, subjects consumed the WPLC supplement (oil or powder), or the placebo. Skin hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), elasticity, and profilometry were evaluated at baseline, after 14, 28, and 56 days of supplementation, and 56 days after the end of supplementation. Additionally, a lipidomic analysis was performed to examine changes in superficial skin layers over 56 days., Results: Dietary supplementation with WPLC rapidly improved all parameters. It increased skin hydration, smoothness, and elasticity while decreasing TEWL, roughness, and wrinkle depth after only 14 days of supplementation. These effects were also observed in the subpopulation of postmenopausal women and led to an improved self-perception of skin. For all the parameters, outcomes were not maintained after the supplementation was stopped. The lipidomic analysis revealed 10 compounds evolving over the 56 days of WPLC supplementation., Conclusion: WPLC supplementation improved skin hydration, smoothness, elasticity, and wrinkledness within 14 days and, as expected, did not last after supplementation was stopped., (© 2023 SEPPIC. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology published by Wiley Periodicals LLC.)

The Populus species possess great potential for therapeutical applications, especially for their known anti-inflammatory properties. The antioxidant properties of propolis, a hive product collected by honey bees mainly from poplar bud exudates, suggest that poplar buds also possess antioxidant properties. Here is reported the characterization of the antioxidant properties of an aqueous poplar bud (Populus nigra) extract. It presented a high total phenolic content, and moderate antioxidant properties as determined by ORAC assay. The main phenolic compounds identified were phenolic acids and flavonoid aglycons. These phenolic compounds were analyzed by ORAC assay for their individual antioxidant activity, in order to determine the major contributors to the total antioxidant activity of the extract. Thanks to their high antioxidant activity, caffeic and p-coumaric acids were identified as the major antioxidant components. Representing only 3.5% of its dry weight, these compounds represented together about 50% of the total antioxidant activity of the extract. The antioxidant properties of poplar bud extract and the phenolic compounds identified were also analyzed by cellular antioxidant activity assay (CAA), which was weakly correlated with ORAC assay. The transcriptional effect of poplar bud extract on skin aging was evaluated in vitro on a replicative senescence model of normal human dermal fibroblasts, using a customized DNA macroarray specifically designed to investigate skin aging markers. Among the detected genes, poplar bud extract significantly regulated genes involved in antioxidant defenses, inflammatory response and cell renewal. The collective antioxidant properties and transcriptional effect of this extract suggest potential antiaging properties which could be utilized in cosmetic and nutraceutical formulations.

The formation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) is a widely accepted pivotal mechanism leading to skin aging. It increases with age, while the endogenous defense mechanisms that counter them decrease. This imbalance, called oxidative stress, leads to the progressive damage of cellular structures and results in accelerated aging. Antioxidant compounds can provide protection from endogenous and exogenous oxidative stress by scavenging free radicals. The main phenolic compounds of oak wood, mate leaf and benjoin resin antioxidant extracts were identified and the effects of these extracts on skin aging markers were evaluated using DNA macroarray technology. The transcriptional effect of the three antioxidant extracts was evaluated in vitro on a replicative senescence model of normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDF), using a customized DNA macroarray specifically designed to investigate aging markers such as dermal structure, cell renewal, inflammatory response and oxidative stress mechanisms. Among the 149 genes detected, the three antioxidant extracts presented a significant regulation of five genes involved in inflammatory response, cell renewal and antioxidant defenses. The collective transcriptional effects of these extracts suggest interesting antiaging properties which could be utilized in nutraceutical antiaging formulations., (Copyright © 2010 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.)