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Predicting the future behavior of beach and nearshore systems requires an accurate delineation and understanding of coastal cell boundaries, sediment transport pathways, and sediment sources and sinks. Unfortunately, there is a paucity of field datasets on beach and nearshore morphological change that extend fully from the top of the dunes to beyond the depth of closure to enable quantification of the sediment budget. Here, for the first time, we employ a total sediment budget approach, examining a sandy and embayed beach located in the north coast of SW England, to investigate inter- and multi-annual embayment scale sediment dynamics over a 10-year period that includes extreme storm erosion and post-storm recovery. We demonstrate that, despite the deeply embayed nature of the beach, the shoreline orientation roughly parallel to the dominant wave direction and the overwhelmingly cross-shore forcing of the inter-tidal beach volume, the system is neither closed, nor balanced. The very significant net changes in the recorded sediment volume from dune top to depth of closure (−14.5 m ODN), representing a loss of c. 100 m3 m−1 during the extreme storm period and a gain of c. 200 m3 m−1 during the recovery period, indicate that significant sediment transport occurs seaward of the base of the terminating headlands and beyond the morphological depth of closure. The results further indicate that the inter-tidal region is partly uncoupled from the sub-tidal region, with the former region dominated by cross-shore sediment fluxes, whereas the subtidal region is also significantly affected by longshore sediment fluxes. A conceptual model is presented that balances the observed volume changes with inferred fluxes, forced by variations in total and alongshore wave power. This study contradicts the general assumption that when sediment exits the inter-tidal, it rests undisturbed in the sub-tidal, waiting for a period of low-moderate energy to bring it onshore. The large sediment volumetric variations across the lower shoreface (depth of 5–20 m), which are of the same order of magnitude as, but uncorrelated with, those occurring in the inter-tidal region, are suggestive of an energetic longshore transport system across this deeper region. It is possible that this transport system extends along the whole north coast of SW England and this finding may lead to a shift in understanding of sediment budgets along exposed and macrotidal embayments globally. Unlabelled Image • Full sediment budget was produced along an exposed macrotidal embayment and linked to wave forcing. • Inter- and sub-tidal volumes are not inversely correlated, indicating decoupling. • Sediment budget suggests significant exchange around headlands and/or across depth of closure. • Beaches on this coast type can be considered part of an extended coastal cell. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Abstract Barrier beach change in directionally bi-modal wave climates presents an increasing challenge for coastal communities, both in the short-term (storm events), and decadal to centurial time scales (long-term evolution). Predicting and planning for subsequent variations requires understanding of the morphological response to changes in wave energy, along with the atmospheric forces driving the wave climate. In this paper, multi-method topo-bathymetric surveys are used to assess the morphological change of a semi-sheltered gravel barrier (Start Bay, Devon, UK). Total sediment budgets (supra- to sub-tidal), with spatially-varying uncertainty levels, indicate the embayment is closed. One third of total sediment flux occurred in the sub-tidal, establishing the importance of sub-tidal transport for this type of coastline. Our results demonstrate that under the predominance of a given wave direction, rotation first occurs within sub-embayments. Additional sustained and extreme energy levels are then required for full embayment rotation to occur, with significant headland bypassing. In this instance, 6 × 105 m3 of gravel was transported alongshore during a 3-year sustained period of dominant-southerly waves, including a 1:50 year storm season (full-embayment rotation), whilst 3 × 105 m3 was returned during a 2-year period of dominant easterly waves (sub-embayment rotation only). A novel parameter is introduced that predicts beach rotation based on the directional wave balance. In turn, winter wave direction is shown to correlate with a combination of two climate indices. Given adequate predictions of relevant climate indices, these findings constitute the basis of a generalisable method to predict and plan for future beach rotation on similar beaches globally. Highlights • Total sediment budgets are required to account for full embayment rotation. • 33% of total sediment changes occurred in the subtidal under episodic wave events. • Beach rotation is parameterized by the balance of directional wave power. • Decadal changes in winter wave climate are well correlated with beach rotation. • Atmospheric indices may predict beach rotation in bi-directional wave climates. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]