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Background: Very few over-the-counter cosmetic 'anti-ageing' products have been subjected to a rigorous double-blind, vehicle-controlled trial of efficacy. Previously we have shown that application of a cosmetic 'anti-ageing' product to photoaged skin under occlusion for 12 days can stimulate the deposition of fibrillin-1. This observation infers potential to repair and perhaps clinically improve photoaged skin., Objective: We examined another similar over-the-counter cosmetic 'anti-ageing' product using both the patch test assay and a 6-month double-blind, randomized controlled trial (RCT), with a further 6-month open phase to assess clinical efficacy in photoaged skin., Methods: For the patch test, commercially [corrected] available test product and its vehicle were applied occluded for 12-days to photoaged forearm skin (n = 10) prior to biopsy and immunohistochemical assessment of fibrillin-1; all-transretinoic acid (RA) [corrected] was used as a positive control. Sixty photoaged subjects were recruited to the RCT (test product, n = 30 vs. vehicle, n = 30; once daily for 6-months; face & hands) [corrected] with clinical assessments performed at recruitment and following 1-, 3- & 6-months of use [corrected]. Twenty-eight subjects had skin biopsies (dorsal wrist) at baseline and at 6 months of treatment for immunohistochemical assessment of fibrillin-1 (test product, n = 15; vehicle, n = 13). All subjects [corrected] received test product for a further 6-months. Final clinical assessments were performed at the end of this open period; 27 subjects received test product for 12-months [corrected]., Results: In the 12-day patch test assay, we observed significant immunohistological deposition of fibrillin-1 in skin treated by test product and RA as compared to untreated baseline (P = 0.005 and 0.015 respectively). In the clinical RCT, at 6 months, compared to baseline assessment, 43% of subjects on test product had an improvement in facial wrinkles (P = 0.013), whereas only 22% of subjects using vehicle had clinical improvement (P = ns). Between group comparison of test product and vehicle was non-significant (P = 0.10). After 12 months, there was a significant benefit of test product over that projected for vehicle (70% vs. 33% of subjects improving; combined Wilcoxon rank tests, P = 0.026). There was significant deposition of fibrillin-1 in skin treated for 6 months with test product (mean +/- SE; vehicle, 1.84 +/- 0.23; test product, 2.57 +/- 0.19; P = 0.019)., Conclusion: An over-the-counter cosmetic 'anti-ageing' product demonstrated clear benefit over vehicle in fibrillin-1 deposition over a 6-month trial period. There was a corresponding but non-significant trend towards clinical improvement in facial wrinkles. Clinical improvements in the treated group were increased after a further 6-months of use. This study demonstrates that a cosmetic may improve the appearance of wrinkles and further supports the use of fibrillin-1 as a robust biomarker for repair of photoaged dermis.

An undesirable side-effect of retinoid treatment is skin fragility. As desmosomes are important in maintaining the cohesion of epidermal keratinocytes, we investigated whether all-trans-retinoic acid (RA) compromises desmosome expression in human epidermis, thereby predisposing skin to fragility. Solutions containing 0.025% RA, 5% sodium dodecyl sulphate (SDS) as an irritant control, or vehicle alone were applied to three sites on the buttocks of normal volunteers (n = 9). Treated sites were occluded for 4 days, and biopsies taken under local anaesthesia. Cryostat sections were stained with a panel of antibodies to desmosomal proteins and visualized by immunofluorescence microscopy. Stained sections were randomized and assessed for intensity of staining. The epidermal thickness of each treated site was quantified by image analysis. Western blots of epidermal desmocollins were quantified by densitometry. RA and SDS treatments significantly, but equivalently, increased epidermal thickness compared with vehicle. Immunohistochemically, both RA and SDS were shown to reduce epidermal staining for desmoplakin, desmoglein 1, plakophilin 1 and desmocollin 3 equally compared with vehicle-treated skin (P < 0.001). RA produced a greater reduction in desmocollin 1 staining compared with SDS (P < 0.001). Similar reductions in desmocollins were found by Western blot analysis. Reduced desmocollin expression may indicate compromised desmosomal adhesion, leading to the skin fragility that results from retinoid treatment.

Cutaneous atrophy arising from prolonged use of potent topical corticosteroids has long been a concern. Thus, it would be advantageous to find an agent which protects against atrophy produced by corticosteroids but at the same time does not impair their anti-inflammatory effects. Recent work shows that topical all-trans retinoic acid (tretinoin) prevents skin atrophy in mice treated with topical corticosteroids, but such studies have not been performed in humans. We performed an 8-week clinical, histological and biochemical study to test the ability of tretinoin to enhance efficacy and inhibit atrophogenicity of topical corticosteroids, when used in the treatment of psoriasis. In each of 20 psoriasis patients, one plaque, and its perilesional skin, was treated once daily with betamethasone dipropionate and tretinoin 0.1%, and one plaque, and its perilesional skin, treated with once daily betamethasone dipropionate and tretinoin vehicle. There was no difference in the speed or degree of improvement in plaques treated with either the topical corticosteroid/tretinoin combination or with corticosteroid alone. Light microscopy revealed a 19% reduction in epidermal thickness, in corticosteroid-treated perilesional skin, as compared with a slight (1%) increase in corticosteroid/tretinoin-treated perilesional areas (P = 0.067). Western blot analysis showed a 55% reduction in procollagen I aminopropeptide in perilesional skin treated corticosteroid alone, as compared with a 45% reduction in corticosteroid/tretinoin-treated perilesional skin. These data indicate that the addition of tretinoin does not impair the efficacy of a topical corticosteroid, in the treatment of psoriasis, and partially ameliorates epidermal atrophy produced by the topical corticosteroid.

Background and Design: Stretch marks are disfiguring lesions usually caused by excessive stretching of skin. We investigated the response of early, clinically active stretch marks to topical 0.1% tretinoin (retinoic acid) cream. In a double-blind, randomized, vehicle-controlled study, 22 patients applied either 0.1% tretinoin (n = 10) or vehicle (n = 12) daily for 6 months to the affected areas. Patients were evaluated by physical examination monthly and by analysis of biopsy specimens of stretch marks obtained before and at the end of therapy in comparison with untreated normal skin., Results: After 2 months, patients treated with tretinoin had significant improvements in severity scores of stretch marks compared with patients who received vehicle (P < .05). After 6 months, eight (80%) of the 10 tretinoin-treated patients had definite or marked improvement compared with one (8%) of the 12 vehicle-treated patients (P = .002). Targeted stretch marks in patients treated with tretinoin had a decrease in mean length and width of 14% and 8%, respectively, compared with an increase of 10% (P < .001) and 24% (P = .008), respectively, in patients who received vehicle. There were no significant differences in various measures of quality and quantity of dermal collagen and elastic fibers in stretch marks when tretinoin and vehicle treatments were compared., Conclusions: Topical application of tretinoin significantly improves the clinical appearance of early, active stretch marks. The processes that are responsible for the clinical improvement remain unknown.

Topical all-trans retinoic acid (RA) produces a number of epidermal changes which are indistinguishable from those observed following treatment with a local irritant, namely sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS). This observation has led to criticism that the efficacy of RA in disorders such as photoageing, is merely a result of irritancy. In stratified epithelia, the cellular differentiation process is characterized by a stepwise synthesis of cell surface carbohydrates, and each type of stratified epithelium has its own specific pattern of carbohydrate expression. Glycosyltransferases, which are responsible for carbohydrate synthesis, are influenced by retinoids. Thus, we investigated whether epidermal cell surface glycosylation is altered in skin treated with topical RA, and contrasted it with changes induced by topical SLS. Skin biopsies were obtained from seven normal volunteers who had been treated, on three separate areas of buttock skin, with single applications of 0.1% RA, 2% SLS, or vehicle creams, followed by 4-day occlusion. Biopsies were assessed immunohistologically using highly specific monoclonal antibodies to cell surface carbohydrates (types 1, 2 and 3 chain structures), previously demonstrated in the epidermis and in oral mucosal epithelium. Although type 1 chain structures were not demonstrated in any of the samples, the distribution of type 2 and 3 chain structures in RA-treated epidermis was altered towards that seen in a mucosal epithelium. T antigen, a mucin-type cell surface carbohydrate structure normally expressed throughout the epidermis, was only observed in the granular layer of RA-treated epidermis--a feature of mucosal epithelia. Ley, normally only seen in non-keratinized buccal epithelium, was strongly expressed in RA-treated epidermis. In contrast, the glycosylation pattern of the SLS-treated epidermis was not significantly different from that observed after vehicle treatment. Thus, RA treatment converts normal stratified epithelium towards the phenotype of mucosal epithelium with a decrease in T antigen and a concomitant increase in Ley. These changes are not observed following treatment with SLS and identify an important difference between RA effects and irritancy.

We investigated the clinical, histologic, and molecular responses of normal human skin to all-trans-retinol (ROL) application, compared to those induced by topical all-trans-retinoic acid (RA), and measured ROL-derived metabolites. Up to 1.6% ROL, 0.025% RA in vehicle (70% ethanol/30% propylene glycol), or vehicle alone were applied in a double-blind fashion to normal buttock skin and occluded for 4 d. ROL produced from none to only trace erythema, which was clinically and statistically insignificant, whereas RA induced a significant 3.7-fold increase in erythema score compared to vehicle (n = 10, p < 0.01). However, ROL induced significant epidermal thickening (1.5-fold at 1.6% ROL, p < 0.01), similar to RA (1.6-fold at 0.025% RA, p < 0.01), relative to the vehicle. ROL, compared with vehicle, also increased mRNA levels of cellular retinoic acid binding protein (CRABP-II) and cellular retinol binding protein (CRBP) genes as determined by Northern analysis (5-6-fold and 6-7-fold, respectively) and riboprobe in situ hybridization. CRABP-II and CRBP protein levels were also higher following ROL than vehicle treatment, as measured by ligand binding (3.2-fold, p < 0.001; n = 7) and Western analysis (3.6-fold, p < 0.003; n = 6), respectively. Epidermal retinyl ester (RE) content, measured after removal of stratum corneum, rose 240-fold (p < 0.005, n = 5) by 24 h of ROL occlusion. RA content, however, was undetectable or detectable only at trace amounts in all samples obtained at 0, 6, 24, and 96 h after ROL occlusion. Detectability of RA was not correlated with ROL treatment (compared to untreated normal skin, p = 0.86) or baseline skin ROL levels (average r = -0.1, p > 0.3). These data demonstrate that ROL application 1) produces trace erythema not significantly different from vehicle, whereas RA causes erythema; 2) induces epidermal thickening and enhances expression of CRABP-II and CRBP mRNAs and proteins as does RA; 3) causes marked accumulation of retinyl ester; and 4) does not significantly increase RA levels. Taken together, the data are compatible with the idea that ROL may be a prohormone of RA, because it produces changes in skin similar to those produced by RA but without measurable RA or irritation.

Background and Design: The efficacy of topical tretinoin (all-trans-retinoic acid) in treating photoaging is well established. Questions that remain are (1) whether irritation causes all or part of the improvement; (2) the concentration of tretinoin that maximizes clinical response with minimal side effects; and (3) the effects of long-term treatment on components of the cutaneous immune system. To address these issues, 99 photoaged patients completed a 48-week study using 0.1% tretinoin cream (n = 32), 0.025% tretinoin (n = 35), or vehicle (n = 32) once daily in a double-blind manner. Before and after treatment, we assessed histologic features, keratinocyte expression of HLA-DR and intercellular adhesion molecule-1, numbers of epidermal Langerhans' cells and epidermal and dermal T lymphocytes, and vascularity as measured by dermal endothelial cell area., Results: Both 0.1% and 0.025% tretinoin produced statistically significant overall improvement in photoaging of the face compared with vehicle; there were no clinically or statistically significant differences in efficacy between the two concentrations of tretinoin. After 48 weeks, 0.1% and 0.025% tretinoin produced similar statistically significant epidermal thickening (by 30% and 28%, respectively) compared with vehicle (11% decrease) and increased vascularity (by 100% and 89%, respectively) compared with vehicle (9% decrease). By various analyses, irritant side effects (erythema and scaling) were statistically significantly greater with 0.1% tretinoin than with 0.025% tretinoin. No significant changes occurred in any immunologic markers when tretinoin and vehicle treatments were compared., Conclusions: Tretinoin 0.1% and 0.025% produce similar clinical and histologic changes in patients with photoaging, despite significantly greater incidence of irritation with the higher concentration. The separation between clinical improvement and irritation suggests that mechanisms other than irritation dominate tretinoin-induced repair of photoaging in humans.

Cytochrome P4501A1 is known to be expressed in skin and thus has been implicated in the pathogenesis of skin cancer due to certain environmental carcinogens. Retinoic acid (RA) has been used in chemoprevention of certain skin and other epithelial cancers. Therefore, we used Northern and Western analysis to determine the effect of externally applied RA on basal P4501A1 expression. RA reduced basal levels of P4501A1 mRNA and protein by 68 (n = 14, P = 0.005) and 75% (n = 7, P = 0.04) respectively. RA application also reduced basal levels of P4501A2 (another P4501A1 subfamily member) mRNA by 93% (n = 7, P = 0.001) as determined by reverse transcription-polymerase chain reaction. Interestingly, P4501A1 mRNA expression induced by coal tar or glucocorticoid (clobetasol) was reduced 46 (n = 10, P = 0.003) and 69% (n = 5, P < 0.05) respectively by RA co-application. Downregulation of basal P4501A1 expression and antagonism of coal tar mediated P4501A1 induction by RA may be a mechanism involved in chemo-prevention of skin and other epithelial cancer by RA.

Adult human skin from a sun-protected site (hip) and from a sun-exposed site (forearm) was maintained in organ culture for 12 d in the presence of a serum-free, growth factor-free basal medium. Cultures were incubated under conditions optimized for keratinocyte growth (i.e., in 0.15 mM extracellular Ca2+) or for fibroblast growth (i.e., in 1.4 mM extracellular Ca2+). Treatment with all-trans retinoic acid (RA) induced histological changes in the organ-cultured skin under both conditions which were similar to the changes seen in intact skin after topical application. These included expansion of the viable portion of the epidermis and activation of cells in the dermis. In sun-damaged skin samples, which were characterized by destruction of normal connective tissue elements and presence of thick, dark-staining elastotic fibers, a zone of healthy connective tissue could be seen immediately below the dermo-epidermal junction. This zone was more prominent in RA-treated organ cultures than in matched controls. Associated with these histological changes was an increase in overall protein and extracellular matrix synthesis. In concomitant studies, it was found that RA treatment enhanced survival and proliferation of adult keratinocytes and adult dermal fibroblasts under both low- and high-Ca2+ conditions. In all of these assays, responses of sun-protected and sun-exposed skin were identical. In contrast, responses of neonatal foreskin to RA were similar to those of adult skin in the presence of low-Ca2+ culture medium, but under conditions of high extracellular Ca2+ RA provided little or no additional stimulus. Together these studies suggest that the ability of RA to enhance repair of sun-damaged skin (documented in previous studies) may reflect its ability to influence the behavior of skin in a manner that is age dependent but independent of sun-exposure status.

Background and Design: Melasma is an acquired, masklike, facial hyperpigmentation. The pathogenesis and treatment of melasma in black (African-American) patients is poorly understood. We investigated the efficacy of topical 0.1% all-trans-retinoic acid (tretinoin) in the treatment of melasma in black patients. Twenty-eight of 30 black patients with melasma completed a 10-month, randomized, vehicle-controlled clinical trial in which they applied either 0.1% tretinoin or vehicle cream daily to the entire face. They were evaluated clinically (using our Melasma Area and Severity Index), colorimetrically, and histologically., Results: After 40 weeks, there was a 32% improvement in the Melasma Area and Severity Index score in the tretinoin treatment group compared with a 10% improvement in the vehicle group. Colorimetric measurements showed lightening of melasma after 40 weeks of tretinoin treatment vs vehicle. Lightening of melasma, as determined clinically, correlated well with colorimetric measurements. Histologic examination of involved skin revealed a significant decrease in epidermal pigmentation in the tretinoin group compared with the vehicle group. Side effects were limited to a mild "retinoid dermatitis" occurring in 67% of tretinoin-treated patients. Among the patients in this study in comparison with comparably recruited white patients, melasma was reported to have begun at a later age and was more likely to be in a malar distribution., Conclusions: This controlled study demonstrates that topical 0.1% tretinoin lightens melasma in black patients, with only mild side effects.

Background: Hyperpigmented lesions are a predominant component of photoaging in Chinese and Japanese persons. Topical 0.1% tretinoin cream improves the hyperpigmentation associated with photoaging in Caucasian persons., Objective: Our purpose was to assess the efficacy of 0.1% tretinoin cream treatment of hyperpigmented lesions associated with photoaging in Chinese and Japanese patients., Methods: Forty-five photoaged patients (23 Chinese, 22 Japanese) completed a double-blind, randomized study in which 21 applied 0.1% tretinoin cream and 24 applied vehicle cream once daily to face and/or hands for 40 weeks. Patients' hyperpigmented lesions were evaluated clinically and by colorimetry throughout the study and by histologic analysis of skin biopsy specimens taken before therapy and at the end of treatment., Results: At the end of treatment, hyperpigmented lesions of the face and hands were lighter or much lighter in 90% of patients receiving tretinoin compared with 33% receiving vehicle (p < 0.0001). Colorimetry demonstrated significant lightening of lesions after tretinoin compared with vehicle (p < 0.05). Histologic analysis of hyperpigmented lesions demonstrated a statistically significant 41% decrease in epidermal pigmentation with tretinoin therapy as compared with a 37% increase in the vehicle group (p = 0.0004). No patient withdrew for adverse effects., Conclusion: By clinical, colorimetric, and histologic evaluation, 0.1% tretinoin cream significantly lightens the hyperpigmentation of photoaging in Chinese and Japanese patients.

An occlusive patch-test assay has been developed for assessment of topical retinoid action in human epidermis. Previous work with this assay has demonstrated marked epidermal hyperplasia in skin treated with topical all-trans-retinoic acid for 4 days and similar effects with the local irritant, sodium lauryl sulphate. To investigate the capabilities of this assay further, a time-course and dose-response were performed with all-trans-retinoic acid, and a comparison made with sodium lauryl sulphate. At no time, between 1 and 4 days, could the clinical or histological effects of 0.1% and 0.025% cream formulations of all-trans-retinoic acid be distinguished from each other. Epidermal hyperplasia was used to generate a 4-day dose-response for all-trans-retinoic acid at concentrations from 0.001 to 0.025% dissolved in a 70% ethanol/30% propylene glycol vehicle. All-trans-retinoic acid could be successfully differentiated from sodium lauryl sulphate at 2 days by virtue of its greater ability to increase epidermal thickness, spongiosis and glycosaminoglycan deposition. It appears that although all-trans-retinoic acid and sodium lauryl sulphate produce similar epidermal histological changes at 4 days, significant differences at earlier time-points suggest differing mechanisms of action. In addition, this in vivo human assay is able to provide potency ranking for doses of all-trans-retinoic acid, and may predict clinical efficacy of retinoids in improvement of acne and/or photodamage.

Melasma is a common disorder of cutaneous hyperpigmentation predominantly affecting the faces of women. Little is known about the aetiology of melasma, and treatment is frequently disappointing. Topical tretinoin is of benefit in treating other forms of hyperpigmentation, for example liver spots, and we therefore investigated its effectiveness in melasma. Thirty-eight women completed a randomized, vehicle-controlled study, in which they applied 0.1% tretinoin (n = 19) or vehicle cream (n = 19) once daily to the face for 40 weeks. At the end of treatment 13 (68%) of 19 tretinoin-treated patients were clinically rated as improved or much improved, compared with 1 (5%) of 19 in the vehicle group (P = 0.0006). Significant improvement first occurred after 24 weeks of tretinoin treatment. Colorimetry (an objective measure of skin colour) demonstrated a 0.9 unit lightening of tretinoin-treated melasma and a 0.3 unit darkening with vehicle (P = 0.01); these results correlated with clinical lightening (r = 0.55, P = 0.0005). Histologically, epidermal pigment was reduced 36% following tretinoin treatment, compared with a 50% increase with vehicle (P = 0.002). Reduction in epidermal pigment also correlated with clinical lightening (r = -0.41, P = 0.01). Moderate cutaneous side-effects of erythema and desquamation occurred in 88% of tretinoin-treated and 29% of vehicle-treated patients. Topical 0.1% tretinoin produces significant clinical improvement of melasma, mainly due to reduction in epidermal pigment, but improvement is slow.

Topical all-trans retinoic acid (RA) modulates growth and differentiation of skin and is used in the treatment of various dermatological disorders. RA is metabolized to 4-hydroxy RA, 4-oxo RA and 5,6-epoxy RA, which are believed to be markedly less active than RA. 3,4-didehydroretinoic acid (ddRA) is a metabolite of 3,4-didehydroretinol which is present in skin. ddRA is biologically active and acts as a morphogen. We have determined the relative biological activity of ddRA, 4-hydroxy RA, 4-oxo RA and 5,6-epoxy RA as assessed by three retinoid responsive systems relevant to skin. RA, ddRA, 4-hydroxy RA, 4-oxo RA and 5,6-epoxy RA (10-100 nM) reduced epidermal transglutaminase activity in human keratinocytes to similar extents, and inhibited alpha-melanocyte-stimulating hormone-isobutylmethylxanthine-inducible tyrosinase activity in Cloudman S-91 mouse melanoma cells by 67, 39, 48, 51 and 19%, respectively, at 100 nM. Daily topical application of the retinoids to hairless mouse skin for 4 days resulted in dose-dependent changes in epidermal thickness and global histological score. The relative potencies of RA, ddRA, 4-hydroxy RA, 4-oxo RA and 5,6-epoxy RA, as calculated by parallel line assay, were 1.0, 0.60, 0.34, 0.29 and 0.18, respectively, for epidermal hyperplasia and 1.0, 0.78, 0.23, 0.14 and 0.08, respectively, for global histological score. Interestingly, the compounds exhibited a similar rank order of potency with respect to induction of cellular retinoic acid binding protein-II mRNA.(ABSTRACT TRUNCATED AT 250 WORDS)

A new synthetic retinoid analogue, adapalene (6-[3-(1-adamantyl)-4-methoxyphenyl]-2-naphthoic acid, CD271), which is relatively selective for retinoic acid receptor beta, was noted to be an effective comedolytic agent in the rhino mouse model and to have clinical efficacy against acne. In pursuit of this observation, we studied the effects of CD271 on the development of erythema, spongiosis, and epidermal hyperplasia as well as other well-characterized markers of in vivo retinoid action after 4 d of occluded topical treatment. The objective of the study was to elucidate further those parameters associated with potential clinical efficacy. Twenty-five subjects were treated with 0.1% all-trans retinoic acid cream, all-trans retinoic acid vehicle, 0.1% CD271 gel, or CD271 vehicle under occlusion for 4 d. Only all-trans retinoic acid induced erythema (p < 0.01 versus all other treatments). Similarly, histologic analysis revealed that epidermal hyperplasia and spongiosis were induced only by all-trans retinoic acid (p < 0.01 versus all other treatments). By immunohistochemical analysis: all-trans retinoic acid increased expression of epidermal transglutaminase, involucrin, and calgranulin (p < 0.05 versus all other treatments). In contrast to these data, both CD271 and all-trans retinoic acid caused marked and significant (p < 0.05) elevation of cellular retinoic acid-binding protein-II (CRABP-II) messenger ribonucleic acid steady-state levels as judged by quantitative RNA blot analysis. Although CD271 treatment did not lead to erythema or affect epidermal morphology, its ability to induce a marker of retinoid action (i.e., CRABP-II) was 70% the potency of all-trans retinoic acid. This study suggests that CRABP-II gene expression may be a more sensitive indicator of retinoid biologic activity in skin than are erythema or changes in epidermal morphology and differentiation.

Background: Topical tretinoin (retinoic acid) modifies fine wrinkles and certain other features of human skin damaged by exposure to the sun (photodamage), but histologic changes do not account for this improvement. In mice with photodamage induced by ultraviolet light, effacement of fine wrinkles by tretinoin is correlated with dermal collagen synthesis but not with histologic changes. We investigated whether collagen synthesis was reduced in photodamaged human skin and, if so, whether it could be restored by treatment with topical tretinoin., Methods: Biopsies of photodamaged skin from the extensor aspect of the forearm and skin from the buttocks, which had been protected from the sun, were performed on 26 healthy subjects. In addition, 29 patients with photodamaged skin were treated for 10 to 12 months with a daily application of 0.1 percent tretinoin cream (15 patients) or vehicle cream (14 patients). Skin-biopsy specimens obtained at base line and after treatment were assessed immunohistologically for evidence of dermal collagen I formation (collagen synthesis)., Results: Collagen I formation was 56 percent less in the papillary dermis of photodamaged skin than in skin protected from the sun (P < 0.001) and was correlated with the clinical severity of photodamage (r = -0.58, P = 0.002). Treatment of photodamaged skin with tretinoin produced an 80 percent increase in collagen I formation, as compared with a 14 percent decrease in collagen formation with the use of vehicle alone (P = 0.006)., Conclusions: The formation of collagen I is significantly decreased in photodamaged human skin, and this process is partly restored by treatment with tretinoin.

Tyrosinase activity is a key determinant of melanin production in skin. Because retinoic acid regulates tyrosinase activity in melanoma cells, we analyzed modulation of pigmentation in vivo by retinoic acid. Black and white subjects were either not treated, or treated topically for 4 d under occlusion with vehicle, retinoic acid (0.1%), or the irritant sodium lauryl sulfate (2%). In untreated skin, tyrosinase activity and melanin content were significantly greater (2.3 times, and 3.2 times, respectively) in blacks versus whites. Four days of treatment with topical retinoic acid did not alter tyrosinase activity or melanin content in black skin. In contrast, retinoic acid treatment significantly induced (2.7 times, n = 8) tyrosinase activity, compared to vehicle treatment, in white skin. Melanin content, however, remained unchanged at 4 d. In separate experiments, tyrosinase activity in white subjects (n = 25) was increased 16% (p = 0.01) in sodium lauryl sulfate-treated skin, and 77% (p = 0.0005) in retinoic acid-treated skin, compared to vehicle-treated skin. The effect of retinoic acid on tyrosinase activity could be differentiated from non-specific irritation, because tyrosinase activity in retinoic acid-treated skin was significantly greater (52%, p = 0.004) than sodium lauryl sulfate-treated skin. Similar results were obtained with the dihydroxyphenylalanine reaction done on vehicle, sodium lauryl sulfate-, and retinoic acid-treated white skin. Northern analysis (n = 6) and semi-quantitative polymerase chain reaction (n = 6) demonstrated that retinoic acid treatment did not alter tyrosinase mRNA levels in white skin. Western analysis revealed that induction of tyrosinase activity by retinoic acid also was not associated with increased tyrosinase protein content (n = 9), indicating that regulation of tyrosinase activity by retinoic acid occurs through a post-translational mechanism. These data demonstrate that low tyrosinase activity in white skin in vivo is retinoic acid inducible and high tyrosinase activity in black skin in vivo is neither further induced nor reduced by retinoic acid.

Background and Methods: Irregular disfiguring skin hyperpigmentation due to inflammation may develop in black persons. We investigated the treatment of this hyperpigmentation with topical tretinoin (0.1 percent retinoic acid cream). Fifty-four subjects completed a 40-week randomized, double-blind, vehicle-controlled study. Twenty-four subjects applied tretinoin daily to the face, arms, or both areas, and 30 subjects applied vehicle cream. At base line and after 40 weeks of treatment, each subject's post-inflammatory hyperpigmented lesions and normal skin were assessed by clinical and colorimetric evaluations and by analysis of biopsy specimens., Results: The facial post-inflammatory hyperpigmented lesions of the tretinoin-treated subjects were significantly lighter after the 40 weeks of therapy than those of the vehicle-treated subjects (P < 0.001); overall improvement was first noted after four weeks of tretinoin treatment. At the end of treatment, colorimetry demonstrated a 40 percent lightening of the lesions toward normal skin color in the tretinoin-treated lesions, as compared with an 18 percent lightening in vehicle-treated lesions (P = 0.05). The epidermal melanin content in the lesions decreased by 23 percent with tretinoin and by 3 percent with vehicle (P = 0.24). Normal skin was minimally lightened by tretinoin as compared with vehicle, according to both clinical evaluation (0.1 vs. -0.1 unit change on an 8-point scale; P = 0.055) and colorimetry (P < 0.001). Retinoid dermatitis developed in 12 of the 24 tretinoin-treated subjects who completed the study (50 percent) and in 1 tretinoin-treated subject who withdrew from the study, but diminished as the study progressed., Conclusions: Topical application of tretinoin significantly lightens post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and, to a clinically minimal but statistically significant degree, lightens normal skin in black persons.

Photoaging is primarily composed of wrinkling, mottled hyperpigmentation and a tactile roughness of the skin, all three of these parameters improve following use of topical retinoids. It appears that smoothening of the skin results from a combination of epidermal changes including thickening, stratum corneum compaction and glycosaminoglycan deposition. Lightening of actinic lentigines and mottled hyperpigmentation correlates with a reduction in epidermal melanin content maybe resulting from inhibition of tyrosinase activity. Effacement of wrinkling in mice correlates with new collagen synthesis, and there is evidence that this is also the case in humans. An irritant dermatitis is a feature of retinoid-treated skin but this diminishes in severity during treatment despite continued improvement in photoaging. Thus it is unlikely that irritation per se is responsible for clinical improvement.

In this study, we have established an organ culture model of human skin and examined the effects of both all-trans retinoic acid (RA) and extracellular Ca++ on the epidermal and dermal components of the organ-cultured skin. Our data show that while organ cultures maintained in serum-free, growth factor-free culture medium containing 0.15 mM Ca++ degenerated rapidly, those treated with concentrations of RA that have been shown previously to stimulate fibroblast and keratinocyte proliferation in monolayer culture (J Invest Dermatol 1989, 93:449; 1990, 94:717; Am J Pathol 1990, 136:1275) demonstrated a healthy appearance for up to 12 days. Degeneration of the control cultures was characterized by separation of the epidermis from the underlying dermis, progressive cell necrosis leading to a complete absence of viable cells from both the dermal and epidermal compartments, disintegration and fibrillation of the dermal connective tissue, and a cessation of protein synthesis. RA-treated organ cultures contained large numbers of healthy-appearing cells in both the epidermal and dermal compartments. One or several layers of viable basal cells in the epidermis could be seen at least through day 12. However, the upper layers of the epidermis frequently separated from the cells in the basal layer. The dermal connective tissue was histologically well-preserved. Furthermore, the level of protein synthesis was higher in the RA-treated cultures than in the control cultures. In addition to treating organ cultures with RA, other cultures were exposed to serum-free, growth factor-free culture medium containing 1.4 mM Ca++. The presence of the elevated Ca++ concentration also preserved cellular and connective tissue structures in the dermal and epidermal compartments. In comparison to RA there was better preservation of the overall epidermal structure. The upper layers of epidermal cells did not separate from the basal cells, and the various stages of epithelial differentiation could be seen. Histologically, the dermis was well-preserved in the presence of elevated extracellular Ca++. Specimens treated with a combination of Ca++ and RA demonstrated features consistent with the features induced by each treatment separately. This included an expanded basal layer of epithelial cells and a prominent keratotic layer with a fairly orderly pattern of differentiation. The tendency of the upper epidermis to separate from the basal cells was partially mitigated. Taken together, these data indicate that both RA and extracellular Ca++ act to prevent the degeneration of human skin in organ culture but probably do so through different mechanisms.

Metabolism of retinoic acid to a less active metabolite, 4-hydroxyretinoic acid, occurs via cytochrome P-450 isozyme(s). Effect of a pharmacological dose of retinoic acid on the level of retinoic acid in skin and on cytochrome P-450 activity was investigated. A cream containing 0.1% retinoic acid or cream alone was applied topically to adult human skin for four days under occlusion. Treated areas were removed by a keratome and a microsomal fraction was isolated from each biopsy. In vitro incubation of 3H-retinoic acid with microsomes from in vivo retinoic acid treated sites resulted in a 4.5-fold increase (P = 0.0001, n = 13) in its transformation to 4-hydroxyretinoic acid in comparison to in vitro incubations with microsomes from in vivo cream alone treated sites. This cytochrome P-450 mediated activity was oxygen- and NADPH-dependent and was inhibited 68% by 5 microM ketoconazole (P = 0.0035, n = 8) and 51% by carbon monoxide (P = 0.02, n = 6). Cotransfection of individual retinoic acid receptors (RARs) or retinoid X receptor-alpha (RXR-alpha) and a chloramphenicol acetyl transferase (CAT) reporter plasmid containing a retinoic acid responsive element into CV-1 cells was used to determine the ED50 values for stimulation of CAT activity by retinoic acid and its metabolites. Levels of all trans and 13-cis RA in RA-treated tissues were greater than the ED50 values determined for all three RARs with these compounds. Furthermore, the level of all trans RA was greater than the ED50 for RXR-alpha whereas the 4-OH RA level was greater than the ED50 for RAR-beta and RAR-gamma but less than for RAR-alpha and RXR-alpha. These data suggest that there are sufficient amounts of retinoic acid in treated skin to activate gene transcription over both RARs and RXR-alpha.

Epidermal transglutaminase-K is believed to catalyze the covalent linking of loricrin and involucrin to form cross-linked (CE) envelopes. In normal skin, transglutaminase-K is expressed as a band immediately below the stratum corneum, whereas in psoriasis and healing skin its expression is considerably expanded throughout the suprabasal layers. We have investigated whether the hyperproliferative state induced by short-term application of topical retinoic acid is similarly characterized by an increase in transglutaminase-K enzyme activity and immunoreactivity. Retinoic acid (0.1% cream) or vehicle were applied to human skin and occluded for 4 d. Skin biopsies were obtained for measurement of transglutaminase-K and transglutaminase-C activity and immunoreactivity. For comparison, cultured normal human keratinocytes were incubated for 4 d in the presence of 1 microM retinoic acid and the subsequent transglutaminase-K activity and immunoreactivity measured. Transglutaminase-K activity was increased 2.8 times in retinoic acid compared to vehicle-treated skin (p less than 0.005, n = 12) whereas there was no significant difference in transglutaminase-C activity. However, transglutaminase-K mRNA levels were not significantly different between retinoic acid- and vehicle-treated skin. In vehicle-treated skin, transglutaminase-K immunoreactivity was limited to a narrow, substratum corneal band, but was considerably expanded in a diffuse suprabasal pattern in retinoic acid-treated epidermis. In contrast, transglutaminase-K immunostaining was decreased and its enzymatic activity reduced sixfold in retinoic acid-treated keratinocytes (p less than 0.01, n = 4). These results demonstrate that retinoic acid treatment in vivo, in contrast to in vitro, leads to not only increased transglutaminase-K protein expression but also increased enzymatic activity in the absence of detectable increases in mRNA levels. These data, taken with the previously reported lack of in vivo modulation of the differentiation markers keratins 1 and 10 by retinoic acid, indicate that certain aspects of keratinocyte terminal differentiation that are altered in vitro by retinoic acid do not occur in vivo in human skin.

The ability of topically applied retinoic acid to improve photoaged skin has stimulated research interest into its mechanism of action. Currently available assay systems are either in-vitro or mouse models, neither of which are truly representative of the in-vivo situation in man. Another drawback is that skin biopsies available from studies using retinoic acid to treat photoageing are of insufficient size to accomplish biochemical and molecular assays. In order to address these problems, a 4-day in-vivo retinoid assay has been developed which serves as a good predictive model for the chronic effects of retinoic acid on skin and helps to characterize the mechanism of action of retinoic acid.

We have previously shown that cellular retinoic acid-binding protein II (CRABP-II), but not cellular retinoic acid-binding protein I (CRABP-I), mRNA expression is markedly induced in human skin by topical retinoic acid. In the present study, we have investigated the pattern of expression of CRABP-II transcripts in 4-d RA-treated human skin by non-radioactive in situ hybridization (n = 5) and Northern analysis (n = 4). RA induced accumulation of CRABP-II transcripts throughout the epidermis, dermal fibroblasts, and endothelial cells as determined by in situ hybridization. In skin treated with vehicle, a faint hybridization signal was observed only in basal layers of the epidermis consistent with low-level expression of CRABP-II mRNA. RA-mediated accumulation of CRABP-II transcripts in skin was also confirmed by Northern analysis. Neither RA nor vehicle induced significant changes in nuclear RA receptor-gamma 1 or keratin 5 gene expression in skin as determined by in situ or Northern hybridization. These results indicate that RA-induced CRABP-II mRNA accumulation is primarily localized to spinous and granular layers in epidermis, and in superficial dermis.

Histologic and immunocytochemical analyses were performed on cutaneous biopsies from 10 patients treated with retinoic acid under occlusion for 4 d compared to biopsies from 19 patients treated nightly for 16 weeks. Acute application of RA caused epidermal thickening (9 of 10 samples), stratum granulosum thickening (7 of 10), parakeratosis (4 of 10), a marked increase in the number of cell layers expressing epidermal transglutaminase (7 of 10), and focal expression of two non-epidermal keratins, K6 (8 of 10) and K13 (2 of 10), changes also observed with chronic treatment. Involucrin, filaggrin, and loricrin were also altered in samples from both acute and chronic treatment. An increased number of cell layers expressed both involucrin and filaggrin from both the acute (7 of 10) and chronic (14 of 19) treatment groups. In the acute group, loricrin expression was significantly reduced or absent in some regions of the epidermis (5 of 10), whereas most chronic samples showed an increased number of cell layers expressing loricrin (12 of 19). The pattern of expression of three major epidermal differentiation products, keratins K1, K10, and K14, was not significantly altered in any of the acute or chronic samples, although there was a slight reduction in the detection of K10 in two of the acute samples. Thus, acute topical RA treatment under occlusion caused substantial changes in the epidermis, and reproduced most, but not all of the effects of chronic treatment.

Background: The hyperpigmented lesions commonly called liver spots distress patients, in part because such lesions are associated with aging. We investigated their treatment with topical 0.1 percent tretinoin (retinoic acid)., Methods: Fifty-eight patients completed a 10-month randomized, double-blind study in which they applied either 0.1 percent tretinoin (n = 28) or vehicle (n = 30) cream daily to the face, upper extremities, or both. Fifteen patients who responded well were than randomly assigned to continue tretinoin therapy or use vehicle alone for six more months. Patients were evaluated by physical examination every month and by analysis of biopsy specimens of lesions obtained at base line and at the end of the 10-month trial., Results: After one month of treatment the patients treated with tretinoin had significant lightening of hyperpigmented lesions as compared with the patients who received vehicle (P less than 0.002). After 10 months, 20 (83 percent) of the 24 patients with facial lesions who were treated with tretinoin had lightening of these lesions, as compared with 8 (29 percent) of the 28 patients with facial lesions who received vehicle. The results for lesions of the upper extremities were similar. As compared with vehicle, tretinoin caused a significant decrease in the degree of epidermal pigmentation and increases in the degree of compaction of stratum corneum, thickness of the granular cell layer, and epidermal thickness. Reductions in epidermal pigmentation evident on histologic analysis were significantly correlated with the degree of clinical lightening of lesions (r = -0.53, P less than 0.0001). During the 6-month follow-up study, specifically identified lesions that had disappeared during the first 10 months of tretinoin treatment did not return in any patient, and six of seven patients who continued to use tretinoin had further improvement., Conclusions: Topical 0.1 percent tretinoin significantly improves both clinical and microscopical manifestations of liver spots; these lesions do not return for at least six months after therapy is discontinued.

Immunohistochemical staining of skin sections with two polyclonal antibodies (anti-CC 1-30 and anti-LC 1-30), specific for transforming growth factor-beta 1, revealed increased extracellular and decreased intracellular expression of transforming growth factor-beta 1 in retinoic acid-treated, compared to vehicle-treated, skin. Transforming growth factor-beta 1 staining, with both antibodies, was most marked in the upper layers of the epidermis, although dermal staining was also evident. The modulation of transforming growth factor-beta 1 expression by retinoic acid occurred in the absence of any change in its mRNA level. Transforming growth factor-beta 1 protein, as detected by rabbit polyclonal antibody (anti-LC 50-75) and mRNA, were only minimally detected in either retinoic acid- or vehicle-treated skin. Similar changes in TGF-beta 1 and TGF-beta 2 immunoreactivity and mRNA levels, as observed in retinoic acid-treated skin, were observed in skin following topical application of the irritant sodium lauryl sulfate, indicating that the alterations induced by retinoic acid were not specific. In contrast, mucin deposition, which is induced by transforming growth factor-beta, was elevated in retinoic acid-treated but not sodium lauryl sulfate-treated skin. Cultured adult human keratinocytes also expressed predominantly transforming growth factor-beta 1 protein, as measured by ELISA, and mRNA. Treatment of keratinocytes with retinoic acid resulted in a 50% induction of transforming growth factor-beta 1 protein, without any detectable change in transforming growth factor-beta 2. These data demonstrate disassociation of modulation of transforming growth factor-beta 1 expression and mucin deposition by retinoic acid and sodium lauryl sulfate in human skin in vivo. Whereas alterations in transforming growth factor-beta 1 expression were observed in both retinoic acid- and sodium lauryl sulfate-treated skin, accumulation of mucin was specific to retinoic acid-treated skin.

We have previously shown that all-trans retinoic acid (RA) has the capacity to stimulate proliferation of growth-inhibited human epidermal keratinocytes and growth-inhibited human dermal fibroblasts. The same treatment also stimulates extracellular matrix synthesis by fibroblasts (J Invest Dermatol 93:449; 94:717). In the present study we have examined the capacity of sodium lauryl sulfate to stimulate keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation under the same conditions. Our data show that both cell types are stimulated to proliferate. Sodium lauryl sulfate is less potent than RA; it requires a higher molar concentration to achieve optimal stimulation and the number of responding cells at optimal concentrations is less with sodium lauryl sulfate than with RA. Further, there is a rapid onset of toxicity at concentrations of sodium lauryl sulfate that are only slightly higher than the optimal stimulatory concentration. Finally, sodium lauryl sulfate is less effective than RA in stimulating production of extracellular matrix (fibronectin, thrombospondin, and laminin) by dermal fibroblasts. Despite its ability to partially mimic RA as a stimulant of keratinocyte and fibroblast growth, sodium lauryl sulfate does not activate chloramphenicol acetyl transferase in cells co-transfected with retinoic acid receptors and a retinoic acid responsive element linked to the chloramphenicol acetyl transferase gene.

Histologic and clinical improvement of sun-exposed skin following topical treatment with retinoic acid has been reported. Daily application of retinoic acid typically results within 2-5 d in an erythematous scaling reaction, which lessens with continued usage. The cellular, immunologic, and biochemical basis of this retinoid reaction and its role in the repair of photodamaged skin are not known. To investigate the retinoid reaction in man, we have treated non-sun-exposed skin with 0.1% retinoic acid cream (Retin-A, Ortho Pharmaceutical Corporation, Raritan, NJ) under occlusion for 4 d to induce erythema and then examined changes in 1) histology, 2) expression of cell-surface molecules, 3) the enzymes and second messengers of the phospholipase C/protein kinase C signal-transduction system, 4) levels of eicosanoids, and 5) levels of interleukin-1 protein and mRNA. These parameters were chosen for measurement both because they are indicators of epidermal function and previous studies suggest they may be responsive to retinoic acid treatment. Epidermal cell growth as judged by increased epidermal thickness and mitotic figures was significantly increased in retinoic acid-treated skin compared to vehicle-treated controls. Increased numbers of CD4+ T cells accompanied by prominence of dermal dendrocytes in the papillary dermis and focal keratinocyte expression of intercellular adhesion molecule-1 were observed in retinoic acid-treated biopsies. Phosphoinositide-specific phospholipase C activity and 1,2-diacylglycerol content were also elevated in retinoic acid-treated epidermis. Protein kinase C activity was reduced by one third in both the soluble and membrane fraction, suggesting down-regulation. Surprisingly, in view of the inflammatory nature of the retinoid reaction, no increases were observed in arachidonic acid, its metabolites, interleukin-1 alpha, or interleukin-1 beta. To examine the specificity of the retinoid reaction, subjects were treated with the irritant sodium lauryl sulfate, under conditions that resulted in a reaction clinically similar to that observed with retinoic acid. The histologic alterations induced by sodium lauryl sulfate were found to be indistinguishable from those induced by retinoic acid. These data indicate that, although a wide range of cellular and molecular alterations occur in retinoic acid-treated skin, these changes may not be necessarily specific or unique for retinoic acid.