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Copyright of Cotton Textile Technology is the property of Cotton Textile Technology Editorial Office and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

This study examines 35 terracotta loom weights recovered during the excavations in the ancient city of Syedra, located in the Alanya district of Antalya. Humans have three basic needs to survive: nutrition, shelter and clothing. Although the exact date of the beginning of weaving, which emerged in order to meet the need for clothing, is unknown, archaeological data date back to the Upper Paleolithic Period. The development of weaving started with the Neolithic Period. Hand weaving is both tiring and takes a long time, which led to the emergence of weaving tools. Loom weights, used in weaving in Antiquity, were attached to the ends of the warp threads on the looms to keep the threads taut. Weaving weights of various forms are found in pyramidal and discoid forms in Syedra. Within the scope of the study, the artefacts were firstly measured and identified by digital methods, typologized according to the characteristics of their forms, and dated through their counterparts, taking into account the stratum in which they were found. There are no studies on loom weights in the Cilicia Region, which includes the ancient city of Syedra. Although no archaeological data has been found so far regarding the production of weaving tools and the existence of a weaving workshop in the ancient city of Syedra, the large number of loom weights found in the city strengthens the belief that they were locally produced rather than imported. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This article analyzes the memories and knowledge of women craftswomen from the provinces of the Cajamarca region in Peru, especially San Miguel, Chota (Tacabamba) and Cutervo, in the design and execution of the waist or qallwa weave. Exhaustive field and archival work was carried out to understand how this intangible cultural heritage is in constant motion throughout history. For a broader understanding of this enmeshed complex, an interdisciplinary dialogue is carried out through a tour the historical context of waist loom textiles in Cajamarca, pointing out changes and continuities in this know-how. All this to show how the qallwa loom constitutes one or the expressions of resilience on the part of these women's collectives. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The Dahua Lou loom, pivotal to Nanjing Yunjin weaving, constitutes an integral part of global intangible cultural heritage. Its intricate weaving technique remains unmatched by modern machinery, marking it as a vital cultural artefact warranting protection. However, current virtual interactive systems grapple with adequately demonstrating its craftsmanship due to limitations like system iteration, multi-system integration, and data interoperability. To address these challenges, this study proposes a method that synergizes knowledge ontology, virtual reality technology, and data-driven design.Knowledge ontology enables enhanced management, reuse, and wide-ranging dissemination of domain knowledge, improving system interoperability. This methodology is utilized in constructing the loom model, animation demonstration, and in integrating it into the virtual interactive system. This multifaceted application of knowledge ontology significantly bolsters the system's efficiency and optimizes its development, maintenance, and integration processes.This research provides crucial advancements in domain knowledge modeling, 3D visualization, and virtual reality interactive systems, playing a significant role in preserving cultural heritage. Despite certain limitations, it offers an immersive, intuitive, and enriched design experience. The study concludes with a critique of the developed system, discussions on the encountered challenges, and future research directions include improving and expanding the knowledge ontology based on the opinions and practical experiences of domain experts, enhancing system compatibility, and conducting broader evaluations. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In the design of a woven fabric, the features of the loom to be used in production have a great deal of impact. Although a plain weave can be applied on any loom, many weaving patterns and techniques cannot be created on every loom. Therefore, the loom directly affects the pattern features as well as the technical features of the woven fabric designed. Except for the color factor, yarn factor, and manual interventions, the pattern variety and the repetitive motif size in the fabric are shaped according to the number of shafts the loom has in dobby weaving machines or shuttle weaving looms. The target group of this study, which was designed to emphasize that many alternative applications can be made despite the limitations originating from the loom characteristics, is weaving designers and especially students studying textile design. The current study aims to help them create their designs in their course projects or weaving competitions. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This article presents the dynamic modeling and analysis of an electric motor with integrated magnetic spring (EMMS) when it is coupled to a weaving loom application. The EMMS can provide the majority part of the oscillating part of the load in a passive way by the magnetic spring. The electric motor provides the average torque and the remaining oscillating part in an active way. This reduces the energy consumption. To create an accurate dynamic model for the EMMS, lookup tables are generated from a finite-element model. Further, a 4-bar linkage mechanism is employed to emulate the behavior of the shedding mechanism of a real weaving loom application. Eventually, the whole system dynamic model was created in Matlab environment. Moreover, a complete experimental setup was constructed to validate the effectiveness of the proposed dynamic model and the EMMS behavior. It is shown that the proposed dynamic model effectively predicts the performance of the EMMS system. Besides, it is proved that the EMMS can effectively reduce the energy consumption of the weaving loom application. The amount of reduction in the energy consumption depends on the designed magnetic spring. For the considered application, it can reach 57%. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The classics of Chinese medicine are redolent with allusions to weaving as they describe a new imperial anatomy and physiology of the medical body. The superior physician in the Yellow Emperor's corpus manipulated ji 機 , the trigger mechanisms at strategic points on the surface of the body, which provided remote relief from the symptoms of illness. Through stimulating these points, medical practice with needle and moxibustion could control the many spirits that inhabited the body, weaving them into a numinous fabric. This paper explores the spatiotemporal geographies of meaning expressed in the manuscripts and artifacts excavated at the Laoguanshan tomb sites. In particular, an analysis of the medical texts, models of mechanical pattern shaft looms, and a tiny lacquered medical figurine recovered there suggest that local translational knowledge transfer between medicine, weaving, and water technologies occurred in the upper reaches of the Yangzi Valley. The resulting innovations were at the heart of a new imperial Chinese medicine. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The present research is motivated by an examination of the intimate link between women, looms, and woven products. In ancient and traditional Sundanese cosmology, the loom is regarded as Nyai Pohaci's embodiment (the Goddess of Rice). It is not, therefore, unexpected that women and looms are intertwined. Even when looms are no longer employed, woven clothes should be present at Sundanese offerings. This study seeks to highlight, analyze, and compare the material artifacts that accompany Sundanese verbal objects in the Lutung Kasarung pantun. The artifacts consist of Sundanese weaving-specific idioms and lexicon. The source of the artifacts is the old Sundanese story of Lutung Kasarung, which offers information about human activities at the time. In this narrative, linguistic artifacts are juxtaposed with visual material artifacts that are now infrequently used or unknown. The study method employs descriptive comparative data gathering techniques with purposeful sampling, as well as visual comparative analytical data processing techniques. Findings reveal that: (1) the linguistic and visual artifacts of looms are classified into three usage categories: (a) spinning cotton into yarn, (b) preparing yarn for weaving, and (c) weaving yarn into cloth; (2) compared to the modern Baduy looms (pakara tinun), the linguistic and material relics are distinct and far less wellknown among the population; and (3) in cultural interpretation, the loom becomes a symbol of Nyai Pohaci's sacrifice of her body for human wellbeing in the natural world and of Sundanese women's determination to settle down. In conclusion, there is a dialectical link between linguistic and visual material artifact comprehension. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This essay addresses the inclusion of artist-run craft workshops in the second iteration of the Bienal de La Habana (1986), held in Cuba's capital city. Advertised as spaces for technical training and the cultivation of subaltern solidarity, these events offered crucial opportunities for so-called Third World artists to meet, learn new skills, and develop an international reputation within the field of craft. As part of a larger effort to present before international audiences an anti-colonial aesthetics that favored production over reception, the Bienal included objects produced in collaboration with local participants. This article focuses on a workshop led by Spanish-Mexican artist Marta Palau in October and November 1986, and centers on the role that materials, process, and relations of production can play in emancipatory approaches to artistic practice. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The article considers small sacred cloths produced in Eastern Indonesia, an area known in the textiles literature as 'east of the Wallace line' as handwoven cloths produced in the region share essential characteristics. They are woven on back tension looms and show similarities in the weaving technique, composition and decoration methods. The first part of the article describes and analyses three weaving ceremonies on the island of Savu where a cloth locally considered as the most ancient and the most sacred textile is woven under certain conditions, raising the question of the type of loom on which it might have been originally woven. The second part is on the origin of the back tension loom used today in eastern Indonesia. Using linguistics and referring to advanced genetic methods as well as recent findings in navigation skills of ancient Austronesian people, I suggest a re-examination of the origin of the loom east of the Wallace line. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Recent excavations of a modestly appointed house at the site of Morgantina in east-central Sicily recovered 175 loom weights or fragments thereof. In this study, we combine a detailed contextual analysis with new methodologies developed by the Center for Textile Research in Copenhagen in order to provide a comprehensive assessment of textile production in this house, the House of the Two Mills. Using these methods, we are able to identify the specific weights within the larger assemblage that most probably formed a single set, used together for weaving at this location. Moreover, the results of this analysis indicate that the loom weights that constituted this set would not have been produced and acquired all at once, but must have been accumulated by the household slowly over time. We propose that the most probable mechanism by which this slow process of accumulation played out would have been through household members passing down these textile tools as heirlooms across generations. We argue that in the process these weights would have been viewed by their users as having a value beyond their mere utilitarian function, instead becoming materializations of memory and the affective bonds formed in the intergenerational transfer of craft traditions. We conclude by considering the implications of this argument for the study of heirloom objects in archaeology and how a contextual understanding of broader Greek social institutions and practices can aid us in parsing peculiarities of the archaeological record. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Back in 2020, I wrote an article entitled The Shroud of Turin and the Extra Sheds of Warping Threads (Olsen, 2020). When I was studying the weaving theory, I realised that it might be possible to weave 8-end satin with five rods on the warp-weighted loom. To date, I have not encountered any historical find showing satin woven on a warp-weighted loom eighter, nor have I heard or read about anybody else undertaking this, so I decided to try to test it. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Diderot writes, in the Encyclopedia, a long entry, "Stockings loom", in which he compares the loom to a reasoning whose conclusion would be the textile. He resumes this comparison in the Refutation of Helvetius: there, Leibniz himself becomes a reflection machine, similar to the "stockings loom". The materialistic option of the machineman resumes a tradition that assimilates text and weaving. We find the same image in Goethe's Faust, cited by Freud in the Interpretation of dreams, and Henry James' novel The figure in the carpet. Invention is always a crisscrossing, a weaving, and a miscegenation, in an interaction between technical creation and representation of the intellectual activity. The programing system of the looms was later adapted to the first analytical machines, ancestors to our current computers. The Encyclopedia theorized this interaction, rehabilitating the loom and conceiving thought as a work. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Copyright of China Textile Leader is the property of China Textile Information Center and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

In order to solve the tension fluctuation of long warp yarn during loom weaving, a control method of differential separation I-RBF-PID let-off system based on online identification transfer function was proposed. It is difficult to establish an accurate mathematical model because of the nonlinear, time-varying and complex coupling characteristics of the let-off system caused by the clearance of the transmission system and the change of the reel diameter of the weaving shaft. LMS algorithm was used to identify the time-varying and high-order transfer function of loom, and the PID parameters were set by RBF neural network optimized by improved PSO. Step size optimizer and differential separation PID control strategy were introduced to improve the convergence accuracy and reduce overshoot of RBF-PID. The time-varying transfer function was applied to the I-RBF-PID control system by designing the transfer function updating formula. The results are compared with those of conventional PID controller and RBF-PID controller under the performance conditions of overshoot, arrival time and response speed. The effectiveness of the proposed high-precision tension control scheme was verified by experiments. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A novel mechanism for the elimination of false selvedge in rapier looms was successfully designed and developed, which functions to grip the protruding weft ends after each pick insertion during the weaving process, with subsequent cutting and suction of the protruding ends. The task is otherwise, presently performed by the formation of dummy or false selvedges in the fabric, requiring additional yarn other than that required for the actual fabric. A significant amount of yarn is wasted to form false selvedges, as they are removed and disposed as hard waste post weaving, which consequently increases the cost of fabric and narrows the profit margins. The developed mechanism was successfully installed and commissioned on an indigenous rapier loom leading to a reduction in the amount of hard waste otherwise generated, without affecting the normal functioning of the loom and the weaving process. The amount of reduction in hard waste was estimated and the quality of fabric manufactured before and after the installation was tested and analyzed. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Copyright of Cotton Textile Technology is the property of Cotton Textile Technology Editorial Office and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

Copyright of Cotton Textile Technology is the property of Cotton Textile Technology Editorial Office and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

Adopting the format of an edited and annotated conversation, Danish researcher and designer Rosa Tolnov Clausen, American artist and professor Marianne Fairbanks and British writer and professor Jessica Hemmings discuss some of the circumstances in which community hand weaving projects may flourish. Decisions around the types of space Clausen's Weaving Kiosk (2017–ongoing) and Fairbanks's Weaving Lab (2016–ongoing) have occupied, how hand weaving may be made portable, the impact of duration and responsibility toward the material, as well as social, outcomes are discussed. While our conversation tries to understand what is shared by the Kiosk and Lab, we also acknowledge where different cultural and historical contexts cause the potential and challenges of these two initiatives to differ. The Weaving Kiosk and Weaving Lab are not intended as performances, but instead place emphasis on how hand weaving may build social connections. The format of this article foregrounds the conversational nature of social hand weaving and hopefully offers inspiration to others interested in expanding the purpose of contemporary hand weaving and textile scholarship. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

An electropneumatic shedding mechanism has been designed and developed for making a prototype sampling loom with having computer-controlled shedding in our project supported by Turkish Government. In the study, in order to choose the best suited healds and heald frame movement distance for shedding system, different shedding geometries were studied and compared in relation to the cloth fell distances and warp elongation in fully open-shed positions. Mechanical and electrical designs were based on the most effective shed geometry. This article includes the developed shedding mechanism, comparison of the shed geometries drawn by using SolidworksVR as well as the strength analysis of pneumatic pistons. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Copyright of Cotton Textile Technology is the property of Cotton Textile Technology Editorial Office and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

Copyright of Cotton Textile Technology is the property of Cotton Textile Technology Editorial Office and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

This paper examines Late Bronze Age spindle whorls and loom weights found in the ongoing excavations at Beycesultan Höyük restarted in 2007 in context. Some supporting evidence on the functions of weaving tools has been obtained based on the context. The lack of written sources on weaving in Western Anatolia entails directly description of the weaving of this region through archaeological material. Spindle whorls in various forms and sizes indicate that different types of yarns were produced in the settlement while the numerous loom weights in the settlement imply the weavings be woven on the warp-weighted vertical looms of different sizes. The weaving tools found in the houses with several rooms indicate that weaving was practiced as a specialized occupation by some members of the household. It may be assumed that spinning could be done in almost any room, but wider courtyards were generally preferred for weaving with a loom. The storage rooms or living rooms of the houses were areas where the weaving tools were collected/stored after the weaving was stowed/stored. Despite similarities with Central Anatolia and Western Anatolia, local effects on weaving tools are quite dominant. With a large number of decoration elements unique to Beycesultan, some spindle whorls and loom weights found also support this view. The data renders Beycesultan höyük as an important textile production center in Western Anatolia. Hundreds of spindle whorls and loom weights found that will also dim light on the settlement and the region's Late Bronze Age weaving in region. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Hippolytus (Asiatic tradition, 3rd century) likes to approach the reality by creating resemblances between all kind of objects, events and living beings. Despite metaphorical language is less accurate than scientific reasoning, it might, however, reflect better the dynamism of the reality. For instance, the history of salvation is compared to a loom (cf. De Antichristo 4), due to its strong biblical roots and omnipresent in Roman life; therefore, this would not only generate greater interest in the audience but also it could arouse among some of them connotations linked to the Myth of Penelope, the myth of social content in Plato's Politikos, etc. By this passage, Hippolytus provides the following correspondence between different aspects of a textile work-shop and some details of the history of salvation: the warp, strong and durable as the Spirit; the weft, thicker and weak, such as the flesh of Christ, the patient workers, the Patriarchs and the Prophets; the golden threads of the edge meaning the grace of God; the loom's shuttle weaving the artistic design, the same as the Logos and finally, the mast of the loom meaning the Cross of Christ. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Loom weights are difficult to date as they are fairly consistent in weight and shape over long periods. This article discusses the dating of 194 light loom weights with no contextual data from Szâzhalombatta, Hungary. The aim of this paper is to present previously unpublished material and identify the period to which the textile tools belong. It shows that the light loom weights in this study most likely belong to the Hallstatt period based on the find site's characteristics and comparison with loom weights from dated contexts. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Copyright of China Textile Leader is the property of China Textile Information Center and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

Copyright of Cotton Textile Technology is the property of Cotton Textile Technology Editorial Office and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

Copyright of Cotton Textile Technology is the property of Cotton Textile Technology Editorial Office and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

The organisation of textile production in medieval England underwent a dramatic transition between roughly the tenth and 12th centuries. These changes, which include the formation of weaving guilds and the evolution of weaving as a maledominated trade, are typically attributed to the adoption of a new, more efficient style of loom. In order to critically examine the role of technology during this transitional period, an experiment was designed to compare the relative efficiency of two different types of loom in use during the Middle Ages. The experiment yielded interesting timed results and experiential observations, which indicate a difference in the skill level required by each loom, suggesting a complicated relationship between gender, new technology, and the perception of skill in medieval England. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]