The wealthiest guests travel to Liceia Franklin de Oliveira's farmhouse restaurant by helicopter, landing amid the green hills outside Arapei, Brazil, about 20 miles as the chopper flies from the resort town of Angra dos Reis. But you don't need to be rich to afford the 70-real prix fixe lunch: that's only $35 at 1.98 reais to the dollar. Plebeians will, however, need some time. By car it's a two-hour, 110-mile drive from Rio de Janeiro, the last three miles of which are down a dirt road barely wide enough for a compact rental. (Ask for directions if you don't see signs in town for the restaurant.) You'll also need time to eat: a meal with Dona Liceia (as the 76-year-old owner and chef is known) is an afternoon-long feast. First come irregular slabs of home-smoked bacon, tangy cheese made in-house and sun-dried tomatoes. Then pots of homemade pates from duck to eggplant and duck to passion fruit. Then a choice of main courses -- one made easier by the fact that they are served family style. There's rabbit in wine sauce, and guinea hen in a sauce of its own blood, and feijao tropeiro, the hearty Brazilian country dish that mixes pork, beans and manioc into a hearty mash. Finally the dessert onslaught: 40-plus choices, all you can eat, and set out buffet-style, from papaya compote to a gooey chocolate and coconut Prestigio cake, named for the Brazilian version of a Mounds bar. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]