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A large number of Southern Song dynasty costumes were unearthed from Huangsheng tomb in Fuzhou city, Fujian province. The unlined clothing was among the funeral objects, and made of the most common leno fabric, which was light and transparent, and the clothing was in extremely poor condition. To protect the unlined clothing, scientific evaluation and protection were carried out. Three‐dimensional microscopy was used to analyse the weave structure and X‐ray fluorescence spectroscopy (XRF) and indirect enzyme‐linked immunosorbent assay (iELISA) were used to analyse scientifically the printed gold and colour paint components of the unlined clothing. The results showed that the structure of the unlined clothing was a two‐warp twisted leno, the printed gold contained Au, Cu, Fe and other elements, the coloured paint contained Pb and Hg elements, and the binding material component of the coloured paint was type I collagen. Based on the results of the analysis, the silk fibroin consolidation method was used to improve resistance to the stress and strain caused by the needle–thread repair method, and the needle–thread repair method was then used to restore the original clothing shape. This study provides a new approach for the protection of fragile silk fabrics in the future. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]