Before RedFarm fulfills its ambition of becoming an urban takeout titan and an accessible brand at evolved grocery stores everywhere (envision RedFarm dumplings and RedFarm noodles), it is starting very small. The narrow, farmhouse-style room on the parlor floor of an 1828 town house on Hudson Street seats just 60 at two communal tables, five booths and three bar stools. And it is a tight, noisy fit with hordes of aspiring epicures of Pan-Asian food settling in the communal seating on weeknights, with even larger hordes turned away on weekends. The presence of the chef Joe Ng, the reigning Leonardo of dim sum, has been the catalyst for a Momofuku-esque stampede to this five-month-old adventure in whimsical Chinoiserie. Ed Schoenfeld, a longtime curator of Chinese food, does a credible Rob Reiner impersonation as he holds down the chaos in the vestibule: no reservations are taken, but names left on the waiting list receive text-message alerts when those elusive seats -- and Mr. Ng's BBQ'd Black Foot Berkshire Pork Belly -- become available. Impatience is not a virtue here. IN THE SEATS Tucked into deliberately mismatched wooden chairs on the end of the front communal table on Wednesday night were Louis F. Latilla, 65, and his wife, Terrie Latilla, 59. They live in TriBeCa and own the Manhattan Fruit Exchange at Chelsea Market: to them, fresh, fragrant, flavor-flooded food approaches a religious experience. ''You're not going to believe how much food we ordered,'' Ms. Latilla said. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]