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In transforming fabrics into garment it is necessary to know, besides the manner of processing, the behaviour of the fabric in particular manufacturing processes. It is necessary to define why and how fabrics behave in a particular way when exposed to various strains. The answers to these questions are obtained by investigating fabric mechanics, as non‐linear mechanical fabric properties at lower strains, which is the case in transforming fabrics into garments. The area to be investigated is quite wide and the investigations presented here deal only with the most important elastic strains occurring in processing fabrics into garments, such as tensile, pressure, shear and bending, as each individual type of strain bears specific importance in studying fabric behaviour, as well as in garment quality control. Strains impacting the fabric, i.e. the reaction of the fabric to these strains, are presented through the parameters of mechanical properties. A relation is also explained between characteristic histeresis curves and fabric behaviour in real garment manufacturing processes, obtained through recording fabric behaviour in particular garment manufacturing processes. Results obtained through the investigations of mechanical properties of the fabrics analysed and their behaviour in garment manufacturing processes helped to determine the so‐called critical, or border values for particular parameters of mechanical properties.

The contribution presented here is the development of the system for qualitative prediction of garment appearance quality. The starting point for designing such a system is a qualitative evaluation of garment appearance quality, based on the study of relation of fabric mechanical properties and achieved quality level of garment appearance, as well as the definition of elements of a system for qualitative evaluation of garment appearance quality level, i.e. its fit.

The mechanical and physical properties of fusible interlinings and fabrics depend on their constructional parameters, but fused panel properties depend on all of them. A new approach is presented for analysing the dependence of the constructional parameters of fabrics on the properties of fused panels. This study was carried out on the basis of a knowledge base for predicting the formability of fused panels made from wool fabrics suitable for upper clothes. This knowledge base was constructed using program package RETIS for machine learning from examples. This knowledge was presented in the form of regression trees. Using regression trees it is possible to predict the properties of a fused panel as well as to analyse the influence of parameters on the properties of a fused panel. Furthermore the results of analysis gained by regression trees were compared and confirmed using experimental measurements.

The perfect interlacing of needle and bobbin thread in the stitch formation process and seam appearance depends first of all on correct pre‐tension of the tension regulator. Changes in the pre‐tension settings also have a direct influence on the tensile force during the sewing process. This contribution presents the influence of pre‐tension in a defined area on the tensile force in important phases of the stitch formation process. In addition the influence of the stitch velocity on tensile force was investigated. On the basis of statistic analysis it was ascertained in which pre‐tension area and stitch velocity the significant differences between tensile forces occurred.

Presents the study of the relationship between the deformation of the sewing thread and built‐in fibres as a consequence of a thread loading in the sewing process. The influence of the stitching speed and different twist numbers of PES thread on the alteration of the mechanical properties of the fibres twisted in the thread was studied for that purpose. On the basis of the received results it was found that with an increase in the number of the thread twist, the breaking tenacity and initial elasticity modulus of the fibres decrease, while the resulting deformation of the sewing thread between the sewing process was reflected as a decrease in the fineness and breaking extension of the fibres and as an increase in the value of the initial elasticity modulus of the fibres.

In this work the study of yield point of thread and stress in flow point is shown. The determination of this point is done with the well‐known Meredith’s and Coplan’s construction, which has the basis in tangent method and numerical method, which is developed from sufficient smooth approximation of the curve. The approximation polynomial expression of the ninth order was chosen for the construction of the mean curve σ (ε) which, as the sufficiently smooth curve, fits the measured values.

The paper presents the objective evaluation and prediction of properties of a fused panel. A system for automatic knowledge acquisition from a given set of examples presents an alternative way to build a knowledge base to determine the quality of a fused panel. On the basis of analyses of influential factors of fused panel quality the learning and testing set of examples to predict the bonding strength of fused panel has been formed.

Tijekom posljednja dva desetljeća u mnogim institucijama provedena su brojna istraživanja za razvoj učinkovite zaštitne odjeće za radnike u industriji, ali i za vojnu upotrebu. Osnovni zahtjev kod upotrebe zaštitne odjeće, i u civilne i vojne svrhe, je zaštita, odnosno potreba za zaštitom čovjeka suočenog s raznim opasnostima i klimatskim uvjetima. U ovom su radu predstavljene određene specifičnosti složenog koncepta projektiranja zaštitne odjeće, kao vrlo bitne komponente osobne zaštitne opreme. Zahtjevi za zaštitnu odjeću dani su s obzirom na njihovu namjenu, funkcije, odnosno vrstu zaštite, kao i sa stajališta sustavnog pristupa projektiranju, razvoju i implementaciji zaštitne funkcionalne odjeće. Ovo istraživanje usredotočeno je na razvoj temeljnog modela, kao progresija od početnih ciljeva projektiranja proizvoda, tj. prepoznavanje problematike, kroz razvoj ideje s obzirom na tehničko rješenje i razvoj samog proizvoda - prototipa, do vrednovanja krajnjeg rješenja i njezine implementacije u funkcionalnu zaštitnu odjeću, te certifikacija samog procesa., Over the last two decades extensive work has been carried out by a number of institutes with the aim of developing efficient protective clothing for industrial workers, as well as for the armed forces. The primary requirement for both civil and defence applications is protection, respectively need for protection - for saving valuable humans faced with various hazards and climatic conditions. This contribution presents certain peculiarities of a complex design concept for protective clothing, as an important component of personal protective equipment. The requirements for protective clothing are given according to their purposes, functions, respectively type of protection, as well as the system’s approach to the design, development, and implementation of protective functional clothing. The research core focus in the grounded model development as the progression from initial product design goals, i.e. problem recognition, through the idea development in view of technical solution to the developed product - prototype, and finally, to evaluation of the final solution and implementation of the functional protective clothing, and certification procedures.

This chapter reviews the importance of quality in textile materials and details some of the key requirements desired by consumers. The chapter then discusses the physical characteristics of fabrics, such as material construction, mass, finished width, design and other characteristics. The following sections deal with the specific performance characteristics of fabrics, such as: colour fastness, breaking strength, seam slippage, resistance to abrasion and pilling, and dimensional stability. The importance of care labelling for clothing and the Eco-Tex 100 standard are discussed. The chapter concludes by considering the impact of material testing on quality assurance.

This chapter gives a general overview of clothing classification systems. The first part includes a general classification of clothing and a harmonised customs-based classification system. The second part presents a functionality-based classification which covers the logical types of functional clothing. The chapter includes both classifications and significant terminologies for individual clothing types.

This chapter first discusses the key terms and roles in clothing production planning and organisation. Clothing-design analysis and activity planning are then explained. The chapter then discusses quality requirements during manufacture, and includes a case study of the quality requirements for a finished article of clothing.

This chapter provides an overview of the development and analysis of sizing systems for clothing, and the manner in which information about the designated systems is shared. The first part includes a short chronological survey of global studies and investigations in the field of anthropological measurements and the development of clothing sizing and designation systems. It continues with discussion of different sizing systems and designations. The chapter includes the European and international sizing systems which are based on body dimensions, the metric system, and data from new anthropometric studies of the population performed in the late 1990s.

This chapter presents an overview of garment collection development. It begins with the general requirements of product development. Methods of garment collection development are then explained. These include the concept of a collection, quality targets, trademarks and their role, followed by collection development management and control. The chapter includes a case study on the design of protective clothing. Finally, the preparations required for successful participation at fashion trade fairs are explained.

This chapter analyses clothing manufacture, work methods, and planning, linking construction, engineering and technology. The chapter begins with the general requirements of planning clothing manufacturing, and analysis of clothing manufacture, selecting appropriate processing equipment in view of the characteristics of sewing machines, work methods, and elements composing the standard time it takes to perform a task. Against this background, the planning of manufacturing activities is explained, including the sewing-operation plan, planning clothing assembly, and process system. Finally, planning clothing manufacturing processes that play an important role during process management are discussed.

This chapter reviews planning, scheduling, monitoring and control activities. The chapter then discusses costs in production, including calculations. Finally, control in production planning and management is discussed.

Presents the influence of rheological properties of a sewing thread on its dynamical loads in a stitch formation process, or on change of thread strength as a consequence of dynamical loads in the sewing process, respectively. Research work shows the change in thread strength, as a result of the stitch formation process forming dynamic loads of a thread, as a function of rheological properties of a thread.

Presents the objective evaluation of a stabilized garment parts handle, based on determination of mechanical and physical properties of fabrics using the Kawabata Evaluation System. Parameters that influence the handle are shown on the basis of 16 parameters of mechanical and physical properties of shell fabric, interlining and fused panel.

Discusses reduction of thread strength as a cause of loading in sewing. Investigates measurements of dynamic loads of the thread during seam formation and reduction of thread strength after loading in sewing. Analysis of results shows that the reduction in thread strength after loading in sewing is a function of dynamic strains of the thread and frictional forces created therein.

On the constructed measuring samples of thermoinsulating chambers filling factors and contraction coefficients of the lengths and widths of the thermoinsulating chambers depending on the geometrical properties of the thermoinsulating chambers were investigated, and a summary diagram for rapid determining the chamber construction characteristics was created. For this purpose a system for independent measurements of temperatures and states of chamber actuators was created by means of which the function of the chambers according to the algorithm of intelligent behavior was investigated. Based on the filling factors investigated and the coefficient of contraction and by use of the shown summary diagram of functional dependences of the thermoinsulating chambers respectively, the construction of the thermoinsulating chambers was carried out, allowing changes in the thickness of an article of clothing in accordance with the required level of thermal protection. It was found that chamber characteristics might be controlled using the algorithm of intelligent behavior, whereby a required level of thermal protection can be realized. In the field of clothing technologies no idea of the function of thermoinsulating chambers with variable thicknesses has been realized so far which can be built into the clothing with the aim of assuming thermoinsulating properties to be brought into line with changes in environmental temperature and the temperature of garment microclimate. In this context the idea of using different assemblies of chambers was specially developed and realized. Their different thicknesses and activated combinations can realize different levels of thermal protection. The prototype of an intelligent article of clothing with thermal protection may serve as a foundation and impetus for new scientific researches in the field of clothing engineering related to the development of intelligent clothing in the future as well as the computer construction of special clothing that changes its form and thickness during wear, for the construction of thermoinsulating chambers and thermodynamic properties of clothing. The wholly functional prototype of an intelligent article of clothing with active thermal protection was designed and constructed at the Department of Clothing Technology. At the moment it is being subjected to the first experiments of functional investigations.