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The effect of the joint action ofM2andM4tidal flow, residual flow and spatial settling lag on the lateral entrapment of sediment is examined in tidally dominated estuaries with an idealized model that assumes along-estuary uniform conditions. Approximate solutions are obtained for arbitrary cross-channel bed profiles by scaling and perturbation analysis. The hydrodynamics include externally drivenM2tidal flow, externally and internally drivenM4tidal flow and residual flow driven by horizontal density gradient, river discharge and nonlinear advection. The sediment concentration includes a mean component, anM2component driven by bed erosion and anM2component driven by both bed erosion and inertial terms. Sediment availability is calculated by imposing a morphodynamic equilibrium condition. The model is applied to a transect in the James River estuary where data of flow and suspended sediment concentration are available. Two types of sediment are separately considered, viz., fine silt and coarse silt. Residual advective transport of sediment by the lateral flow induces trapping of sediment over the left shoal (looking landward). Model results also show that the incorporation ofM4tidal flow and spatial settling lag leads to a second sediment trapping region over the right shoal. Model results are qualitatively in good agreement with the observations. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Residual currents induced by asymmetric tidal mixing were examined for weakly stratified, narrow estuaries using analytical and numerical models. The analytical model is an extension of the work of R. K. McCarthy, with the addition of tidal variations of the vertical eddy viscosity in the longitudinal momentum equation. The longitudinal distribution of residual flows driven by asymmetric tidal mixing is determined by the tidal current amplitude and by asymmetries in tidal mixing between flood and ebb. In a long channel, the magnitude of the residual flow induced by asymmetric tidal mixing is maximum at the estuary mouth and decreases upstream following the longitudinal distribution of tidal current amplitude. Larger asymmetry in tidal mixing between flood and ebb produces stronger residual currents. For typical tidal asymmetry, mixing is stronger during flood than during ebb and results in two-layer residual currents with seaward flow near the surface and landward flow near the bottom. For reverse tidal asymmetry, mixing is weaker during flood than during ebb and the resulting residual flow is landward near the surface and seaward near the bottom. Also, the residual flow induced by tidal asymmetry has the same order of magnitude as the density-driven flow and therefore is important to estuarine dynamics. Numerical experiments with a primitive-equation numerical model [the Regional Ocean Modeling System (ROMS)] generally support the pattern of residual currents driven by tidal asymmetry suggested by the analytical model. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Bathymetric field data of tidal basins reveal two main classes of bottom patterns: (1) tidal bars, located near the entrance of the basin (length scale determined by the embayment width) and (2) global channel-shoal patterns which scale with the basin length. Previous models were able to describe only either one of these patterns. In this paper it is shown that both of them can be investigated within the framework of an idealised model of a rectangular tidal embayment, with fixed side walls and an erodible bed. The water motion is described by the depth-averaged shallow-water equations and is forced by a prescribed vertical tide at the seaward entrance. Sediment is transported as suspended load and only realistic values of the bottom friction parameter are considered. By assuming the ratio of embayment length over tidal wave length to be small, the model allows for a morphodynamic equilibrium, characterised by a spatially uniform tide moving over a bottom which slopes upwards toward the landward boundary. This equilibrium is unstable for a range of values of the model parameters, such that growth of bedforms occurs. Both global and local bottom patterns are found. In this study particular emphasis is laid on the mechanism governing the growth of a new type of localised bottom pattern. These patterns consist of small bars located near the entrance of the basin, resembling multiple row bars, and are found when advective sediment fluxes prevail over diffusive sediment fluxes. The formation process of these new bedforms is discussed in detail. The results agree well with field data. Comparison of the results with those obtained with a process-based, numerical model shows that, although the idealised model is strongly simplified, it is capable of producing the essential morphodynamics. Therefore, the idealised model is a useful tool to investigate mechanisms of bottom pattern growth. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A model was developed and analyzed to quantify the effect of graded sediment on the formation of tidal sand ridges. Field data reveal coarse (fine) sediment at the crests (in the troughs), but often phase shifts between the mean grain-size distribution and the bottom topography occur. Following earlier work, this study is based on a linear stability analysis of a basic state with respect to small bottom perturbations. The basic state describes an alongshore tidal current on a coastal shelf. Sediment is transported as bed load and dynamic hiding effects are accounted for. A one-layer model for the bed evolution is used and two grain size classes (fine and coarse sand) are considered. Results indicate an increase in growth and migration rates of tidal sand ridges for a bimodal mixture, whilst the wavelength of the ridges remains unchanged. A symmetrical externally forced tidal current results in a grain-size distribution which is in phase with the ridges. Incorporation of an additional external M4 tidal constituent or a steady current results in a phase shift between the grain-size distribution and ridge topography. These results show a general agreement with observations. The physical mechanism responsible for the observed grain-size distribution over the ridges is also discussed. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The dynamics of finite-amplitude bed forms in a tidal channel is studied with the use of an idealized morphodynamic model. The latter is based on depth-averaged equations for the tidal flow over a sandy bottom. The model considers phenomena on spatial scales of the order of the tidal excursion length. Transport of sediment mainly takes place as suspended load. The reference state of this model is characterized by a spatially uniform M2 tidal current over a fixed horizontal bed. The temporal evolution of deviations from this reference state is governed by amplitude equations: these are a set of non-linear equations that describe the temporal evolution of bed forms. These equations are used to obtain new morphodynamic equilibria which may be either static or time-periodic. Several of these bottom profiles show strong similarity with the tidal bars that are observed in natural estuaries. The dependence of the equilibrium solutions on the value of bottom friction and channel width is investigated systematically. For narrow channels (width small compared to the tidal excursion length) stable static equilibria exist if bottom friction is slightly larger than rcr. For channel widths more comparable to the tidal excursion length, multiple stable steady states may exist for bottom friction parameter values below rcr. Regardless of channel width, stable time-periodic equilibria seem to emerge as the bottom friction is increased. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This study aims at comparing and contrasting two different models for sand transport by currents in a shallow sea to illustrate the effect of velocity veering. The first model uses the Bailard-type formulation, which allows calculation of erosion/deposition rates at a fixed location on the sea floor via the divergence of horizontal sediment fluxes. The second model is a semi-analytical 2.5-dimensional model, which takes into account the time lag between erosion and deposition events and the velocity veering within the sediment-laden (nepheloid) layer caused by the Coriolis force. The velocity veering implies that the direction of the sediment flux is generally different from the direction of the surface flow. The latter model was designed for rapid, semi-analytical computations of sediment transport, using flow fields from 2-DH numerical models. The two models use a matching set of parameters to provide identical values for the bottom stress and suspended sediment load for a uniform steady current at any given surface velocity. The two models were compared in a range of sand grain sizes 50--500 µm and current speeds up to 1 m s-1 for an idealised square region (100 100 km) of a shelf sea of constant depth. The erosion/deposition patterns and suspension load were examined in three settings: (1) uniform steady flow, (2) straight jet, (3) meandering jet. It was found that both the rates and, in particular,the spatial distribution of the areas of erosion/deposition differ significantly between the models in cases (2) and (3). This difference can be attributed to additional flux divergence due to velocity veering. A comparison of model results with field data, collected at Long Island Shelf, supports the relevance of Coriolis-induced veering of currents on the direction of the sediment flux. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Stability methods, as they are applied in describing the initiation, growth and long term evolution of morphological features, are discussed. In particular, their use in describing large-scale, long-term rhythmic morphological features is highlighted. The analysis of such models indicates that many rhythmic bottom features arise from an inherent instability of a morphodynamical system, rather than being forced by external conditions. A synopsis of their theoretical basis is given, and the assumptions commonly pertaining to their use are described. These models, which can be applied more efficiently than many other process-oriented models, are categorized, and the kind of information that they can provide is also described. Finally, their relation to other areas and techniques of long-term, aggregated scale morphodynamics is discussed, and their usefulness to and applicability by the practitioner is summarized. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A non-linear morphodynamic model of a microtidal coastal shelf is used to study the response of shoreface-connected sand ridges and the net sand balance of the shelf to large-scale interventions. The model describes the interaction between storm-driven currents and the erodible bottom. The transport of sediment comprises both bedload and suspended load contributions and is due to the joint action of waves (stirring of sediment from the bed) and net currents (causing transport). Three basic types of interventions are studied: extracting sand from ridges, nourishing sand at the shelf and constructing navigation channels. The model results indicate that for all interventions studied a relatively fast local recovery (time scale of decades to centuries) of the disturbed bathymetry to its original pattern takes place. Readjustment of the global system to its original equilibrium state (the saturation process) occurs on a longer time scale (several centuries). During the adjustment stage, significant net sand exchanges between inner shelf and adjacent outer shelf and near-shore zone occur. The results further suggest that extraction of sand from the shelf and dredging of navigation channels have negative implications for the stability of the beach (its sand volume decreases). [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The dynamics of the surf zone strongly depend on the characteristics of incoming sea waves,. The latter are determined by the local wind climate, but also by the bathymetry of the inner shelf, e.g. sand ridges cause wave refraction and dissipate part of the wave energy. As the shelf bathymetry evolves on decadal to centennial time scales, due to spatial variations in tide- and wave-induced sand transport, knowledge on how shelf bathymetry affects the large-scale coastal evolution is important. This study investigates the natural hydro- and morphodynamics of a mesotidal coastal system (shelf and surf zone) and their response to interventions on the shelf. For this, the coupled Delft3D-SWAN numerical model is employed to solve for tides, waves, sand transport and bed level update on the inner shelf. A one-line model is used to calculate large-scale evolution of the coastline from gradients in the longshore sand transport in the surf zone. This transport is given by the CERC formula, where its input is derived from the wave output of the shelf model. Results will be shown for a domain that crudely mimics the Belgian continental shelf. The natural behaviour of the inner shelf is studied by conducting spin-up runs for a period of 1000 years, starting from an initially linear bottom profile in the cross-shore direction. Subsequently, several interventions are created (in particular artificial islands) and the response of the system to these perturbations is studied. It will first be shown that a full process-based morphodynamic model is able to simulate the formation of mature tidal sand ridges on a shelf with a sloping bottom. The variable bathymetry of the shelf has a substantial impact on coastal erosion and accretion patterns. Second, the construction of an island strongly affects the dynamics of the sand ridges and also gives rise to substantial accretion of the coast behind the island and erosion further downstream. Third, shelf dynamics and coastal accretion and erosion rates will be presented for different positions and sizes of the island, as well as for multiple islands. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]