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Yerba Santa (Eriodictyon angustifolium and Eriodictyon californicum) has been used for many years in traditional medicine. However, the effect of Yerba Santa on melanogenesis has not yet been investigated. We aimed to assess the biological effects of Yerba Santa on hair pigmentation.Yerba Santa extracts were assessed for their cytological effects following X-ray irradiation treatment and then tested directly for the prevention of human hair greying. Ultra-performance liquid chromatography (UPLC) was utilized to identify the individual extract components.Eriodictyon angustifolium extract significantly increased melanin synthesis in the melanoma cell line through activation of the WNT/MITF/tyrosinase-signalling pathway. In contrast, E. californicum had no effect on melanin synthesis. E. angustifolium extract also demonstrated a protective effect against the damage induced by X-ray irradiation in human keratinocytes. Application of the extracts to subjects who had grey beards demonstrated a reduced number of grey beard hair per year specifically with the E. angustifolium extract. A significant decrease in grey head hair was also observed after application of E. angustifolium extract. Upregulation of gene expression related to melanin production and WNT signalling was observed after the application of E. angustifolium extract. Sterubin was the most abundant flavonoid detected by UPLC in E. angustifolium extract. In addition, sterubin showed the highest difference in terms of quantity, between E. angustifolium and E. californicum extract.Eriodictyon angustifolium extract, which is abundant in sterubin, may be suitable as a potential cosmetic and medical agent for the prevention and improvement of hair greying.Yerba Santa (Eriodictyon angustifolium et Eriodictyon californicum) est utilisé depuis de nombreuses années en médecine traditionnelle. Cependant, l'effet de Yerba Santa sur la mélanogenèse n'a pas encore été étudié. Notre objectif était d'évaluer les effets biologiques de Yerba Santa sur la pigmentation des cheveux. MÉTHODES: Les extraits de Yerba Santa ont été évalués pour leurs effets cytologiques après un traitement d'irradiation aux rayons X, puis testés directement pour la prévention du grisonnement des cheveux humains. La chromatographie liquide ultra-performante (UPLC) a été utilisée pour identifier les composants d'extrait individuels. RÉSULTATS: L'extrait d'E. angustifolium a augmenté de manière significative la synthèse de mélanine dans la lignée cellulaire du mélanome par l'activation de la voie de signalisation WNT/MITF/tyrosinase. En revanche, E. californicum n'a eu aucun effet sur la synthèse de mélanine. L'extrait d'E. angustifolium a également démontré un effet protecteur contre les dommages induits par l'irradiation aux rayons X dans les kératinocytes humains. L'application des extraits à des sujets qui avaient une barbe grise a démontré un nombre réduit de poils gris par an spécifiquement avec l'extrait d'E. angustifolium. Une diminution significative des cheveux gris a également été observée après l'application d'extrait d'E. angustifolium. Une régulation à la hausse de l'expression des gènes liée à la production de mélanine et à la signalisation WNT a été observée après l'application d'extrait d'E. angustifolium. La stérubine était le flavonoïde le plus abondant détecté par UPLC dans l'extrait d'E. angustifolium. De plus, la stérubine a montré la plus grande différence en termes de quantité entre E. angustifolium et E. californicum.L'extrait d'E. angustifolium, qui est abondant en stérubine, peut convenir comme agent cosmétique et médical potentiel pour la prévention et l'amélioration du grisonnement des cheveux.

This study aims to evaluate the effect of protocatechuic acid (PCA) on human hair follicle melanocytes (HFM). Normal primary HFM were isolated and cultured till logarithmic period of second passage, then treated with different concentrations of PCA (0.1–200 μmol L−1) to study the cell proliferation, melanin contents, tyrosinase activity and protein and mRNA expression of melanogenic genes (tyrosinase-related protein 1 (TRP-1), tyrosinase-related protein 2 (TRP-2), and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF)) in the cultured HFM. In addition, we have also measured the contents of superoxide dismutase (SOD) and glutathione (GSH) in PCA treated HFM. Vitamin C was used as a positive control. The result showed that PCA can decrease the synthesis of melanin and the tyrosinase activity with IC 50 = 8.9 μmol L−1 and IC 50 = 6.4 μmol L−1, respectively, at the treatment time of 24 hours, without inducing any cytotoxicity in HFM cells. In addition, the mRNA transcription and protein expression levels of TRP-1, TRP-2 and MITF significantly decreased with a dose-dependent manner after 24-hour PCA treated in HFM cells. Furthermore, PCA has significantly increased the SOD and GSH activity in a dose-dependent manner for 24-hour PCA treatment. This study suggested that PCA has an inhibitory effect on the production of melanin through down-regulation of the expression of melanogenesis-related protein and the effect of anti-oxidation, which could be useful for the therapy of melanin overproduction or skin whitening.

Background: In Ayurvedic and Unani texts, many herbs and formulations are mentioned as complexion promoters having skin brightening and whitening effects that downregulate melanin synthesis. However, with the assistance of chromatographic techniques, further validation of scientific standardization is required. Objective: To validate individual herbs and formulations in the ancient literature, some scientific aspects are to be focused on, including standardization of herbs or herbal products consisting of the active compounds. Methods: Out of many herbs having complexion promoting properties, three herbs (Myristica fragrans, Hemidesmus indicus, and Inula racemosa) were selected for the study. In the present study, validated reverse phase (RP)-HPLC and high-performance TLC (HPTLC) methods were developed for standardization of the herbs. Results: It was observed that the quercetin present in M. fragrans was 0.62% (w/w) with a retention time (Rt) of 6.23 min, the ferulic acid present in H. indicus was 1.39% (w/w) with an Rt of 8.083 min, and the chlorogenic acid present in I. racemosa was 1.03% (w/w) with an Rt of 3.19 min. The HPTLC method showed 1.23% (w/w) of quercetin present in M. fragrans with a retardation factor (Rf) of 0.48, ferulic acid in H. indicus was 1.52% (w/w) with an Rf of 0.44, and chlorogenic acid was 1.09% (w/w) in I. racemosa with an Rf of 0.52. Conclusions: This specific and precise validated method can be useful for the quality evaluation and quantitative determination of the constituents in complexion-promoting herbs from Ayurveda and Unani systems of medicine. Highlights: The exploration of complexion promoters from Ayurveda and Unani; quality evaluation of complexion promoters herbs from Ayurveda and Unani; HPTLC and RP-HPLC analysis of herbal extracts used and their validation.

Furocoumarins, such as 8-MOP, are the most common medications used to relieve the symptoms of vitiligo clinically. Some furocoumarins also showed excellent performance in an anti-bacterial assay. This paper describes the synthesis of a series of novel Schiff bases (6a-6k), and their promotion in melanogenesis and anti-bacterial properties were studied in vitro. The pigment production of B16 cells and bacterial inhibition ring assay were applied for the bioactivity of 6a-6k. According to the results, a stronger promotion on pigment content was observed, when six compounds co-cultured with cells, compared with positive control (8-MOP). Significantly, compound 6k (237%) as the most active was found to increase the amount of melanin more than 1.7 times compared with 8-MOP activation rate (136%). All the compounds could moderately retard C. albicans growth. Interestingly, aldehyde 5, which possessed a broader antibacterial spectrum, showed the highest inhibition against C. albicans as well and much better than the positive control (Amphotericin B). Studies of 6k in animal models of vitiligo and related molecular mechanism are presently under way, with the aim of discovering an anti-vitiligo leading compound.

Tyrosinase is the rate-limiting enzyme for melanin production in plant and mammalian cells. Upregulation of this enzyme results in hyperpigmentation disorders. In order to treat pigmentation problems, novel skin whitening compounds are extremely screened. It is found that fatty acids based on their saturation levels either increase or decrease tyrosinase enzyme activity. Thus, fatty acids and their compositions are promising candidates for the treatment of hyperpigmentation or hypopigmentation disorders. Microalgae are rich in both saturated and unsaturated fatty acids, as well. In this study, C. cohnii and S. limacinum fatty acids were evaluated as tyrosinase inhibitor candidates. Mushroom tyrosinase activity studies displayed that both extracts increase tyrosinase enzyme activity dose-dependently. On the other hand, S. limacinum at 200 mu g ml(-1) concentration almost decreased half of tyrosinase enzyme activity in B16-F10 cells. Besides, it was 3 times more efficient for tyrosinase enzyme activity inhibition and 2 times more effective to decrease melanin synthesis compared to C. cohnii. Considering low toxicity to B16-F10 melanoma and healthy keratinocyte cells (HaCaT), S. limacinum fatty acids could be a suitable source for lipid-based tyrosinase inhibitory functional cosmetics products.

Melanin is a natural pigment produced by cells to prevent damage caused by ultraviolet radiation. Previously, resveratrol was shown to reduce melanin synthesis. As a natural polyphenol with various biological activities, resveratrol occurs in a variety of beverages and plant foods, such as grapes. Therefore, we investigated whether grape extracts containing resveratrol also had the ability to regulate melanin synthesis. In this study, we used mouse B16F10 melanoma cells as a model for melanin synthesis with the melanogenesis-inducing α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH) as a positive control. Our results confirmed previous reports that resveratrol reduces melanin synthesis by reducing the activity of the rate-limiting enzyme tyrosinase. In contrast, the grape extract could not reduce melanin synthesis, and in fact promoted melanogenesis in the presence of α-MSH. The expression of genes related to melanin synthesis, such as tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein-1, tyrosinase-related protein-2, and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor, also supports these phenomena, which means that even in the presence of resveratrol, grape extract will strengthen the function of α-MSH in promoting melanin synthesis. Therefore, these results also provide a point of view for research on cosmetics.

This paper aims to sketch an up-to-date phyto-pharmacological reports on Alpinia conchigera Griff. For this, published scientific reports found in the databases: PubMed, Science Direct and Google Scholar were considered. The findings suggest that A. conchigera contains various important secondary metabolites, including alkaloids, steroids, flavonoids, saponins, triterpenes, and phenols. Rhizomes contain essential oils. A. conchigera possesses various important biological activities such as antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and membrane stabilizing, anti-microbial, anthelmintic, larvicidal, anti-diarrheal and anti-motility, anti-cancer, anti-nociceptive, sedative, pesticidal, melanin synthesis inhibitory, anti-pyretic, and anti-atherothrombosis effects. The anti-cancer effects of A. conchigera and its derivatives have been found by causing cytotoxicity, cell cycle arrest, apoptosis, autophagy and anti-proliferative effects in the test systems. Of note, A. conchigera may be one of the best sources of phytotherapeutic lead compounds.

During infection of the host plant, various biological processes facilitate host invasion, including the physical invasion of the host, and subsequent adaptation to the host's internal environment. During these processes, cellular biological changes result in host adhesion, morphogenetic differentiation via the sensing of plant-derived signals, and maturation of infection structures via reorientation of the cytoskeleton. Changes in lipid and sugar metabolism in fungi generate energy for survival, turgor pressure, and melanin synthesis. Moreover, phytopathogenic fungi produce numerous types of effectors used in the evasion of host defense systems and to establish a suitable environment for nutrient exploitation. However, infection systems seem to vary between fungal species because of differences in their evolutionary origin.

Five indole derivatives, 1H-indol-7-ol (1), tryptophol (2), 3-indolepropionic acid (3), tryptophan (4), 3,3-di(1H-indol-3-yl)propane-1,2-diol (5) and two diketopiperazines, cyclo(L-Pro-L-Tyr) (6), cyclo[L-(4-hydroxyprolinyl)-L-leucine (7) along with one dihydrocinnamic acid (8) were isolated from Pantoea ananatis VERA8, that endophytic bacteria derived from Baccharoides anthelmintica roots. This is a first report towards an isolation of endophytic strains (funji or bacteria) from the B. anthelmintica herb. The synergetic properties of the total extract compositions, as well as effects of the pure isolated secondary metabolites evaluated on their melanin synthesis in murine B16 cells towards for vitiligo treatment.

Hyperpigmentation is a common skin problem in a woman. Prolonging topical use of skin whitening may cause hyperpigmentation such as ochronosis whose condition is a challenge for treatment. An aqueous human placenta extract (RGF&#174) contains bioactive therapeutic molecules. There is evidence of human placenta extract showing that melanin synthesis is inhibited by placenta extract in melanocytes. We first reported the case of the hyperpigmentation improvement following face skin mesotherapy human placenta extract treatment.

The effect of oral supplementation with astaxanthin of different Z-isomer ratios on ultraviolet (UV) light-induced skin damage in guinea pigs was investigated. Astaxanthin with a high Z-isomer content was prepared from the all-E-isomer via thermal isomerization. Intact (all-E)-astaxanthin and the prepared Z-isomer-rich astaxanthin were suspended in soybean oil and fed to guinea pigs for three weeks. The UV-light irradiation was applied to the dorsal skin on the seventh day after the start of the test diet supplementation, and skin parameters, such as elasticity, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and pigmentation (melanin and erythema values), were evaluated. The accumulation of astaxanthin in the dorsal skin was almost the same after consumption of the all-E-isomer-rich astaxanthin diet (E-AST-D; total Z-isomer ratio = 3.2%) and the Z-isomer-rich astaxanthin diet (Z-AST-D; total Z-isomer ratio = 84.4%); however, the total Z-isomer ratio of astaxanthin in the skin was higher in the case of the Z-AST-D supplementation. Both diets inhibited UV light-induced skin-damaging effects, such as the reduction in elasticity and the increase in TEWL level. Between E-AST-D and Z-AST-D, Z-AST-D showed better skin-protective ability against UV-light exposure than E-AST-D, which might be because of the greater UV-light-shielding ability of astaxanthin Z-isomers than the all-E-isomer. Furthermore, supplementation with Z-AST-D resulted in a greater reduction in skin pigmentation caused by astaxanthin accumulation compared to that of E-AST-D. This study indicates that dietary astaxanthin accumulates in the skin and appears to prevent UV light-induced skin damage, and the Z-isomers are more potent oral sunscreen agents than the all-E-isomer.

Melasma is a common, acquired, chronic cutaneous pigment disorder that is often difficult to treat and has a high recurrence rate. The goal of a melasma treatment regimen is to decrease pigment production and increase elimination. Topical tyrosinase inhibitors block melanin synthesis and thereby reduce pigment production. Peels and laserand light-based devices increase melanin elimination. A multimodality treatment approach targeting both pigment production and elimination is necessary to achieve equilibrium and disease remission. Maintenance treatments are often necessary due to the high recurrence rate. Strict photoprotection is critical to prevent melanogenesis and rebound. Targeting the vasculature via pulsed dye laser or tranexamic acid is another approach to treatment.

The human tyrosinase is the most prominent therapeutic target for pigmentary skin disorders. However, the overwhelming majority efforts have been devoted to search mushroom tyrosinase inhibitors, which show poor inhibitory activity on human tyrosinase and certain side effects that cause skin damage in practical application. Herein, a series of degraders that directly targeted human tyrosinase was firstly designed and synthesized based on newly developed PROTAC technology. The best PROTAC TD9 induced human tyrosinase degradation obviously in dose and time-dependent manner, and its mechanism of inducing tyrosinase degradation has also been clearly demonstrated. Besides, encouraging results that low-toxicity PROTAC TD9 was applied to reduce zebrafish melanin synthesis have been obtained, highlighting the potential to treatment of tyrosinase-related disorders. Moreover, this work has innovatively expanded the application scope of PROTAC technology and laid a solid foundation for further development of novel drugs treating pigmentary skin disorders.

Velutin, one of the flavones contained in natural plants, has various beneficial activities, such as skin whitening, as well as anti-inflammatory, anti-allergic, antioxidant, and antimicrobial activities. However, the relationship between the structure of velutin and its anti-melanogenesis activity is not yet investigated. In this study, we obtained 12 velutin derivatives substituted at C5, C7, C3′, and C4′ of the flavone backbone with hydrogen, hydroxyl, and methoxy functionalities by chemical synthesis, to perform SAR analysis of velutin structural analogues. The SAR study revealed that the substitution of functional groups at C5, C7, C3′, and C4′ of the flavone backbone affects biological activities related to melanin synthesis. The coexistence of hydroxyl and methoxy at the C5 and C7 position is essential for inhibiting tyrosinase activity. However, 1,2-diol compounds substituted at C3′ and C4′ of flavone backbone induce apoptosis of melanoma cells. Further, substitution at C3′ and C4′ with methoxy or hydrogen is essential for inhibiting melanogenesis. Thus, this study would be helpful for the development of natural-derived functional materials to regulate melanin synthesis.

Skin color is determined by the processes of melanin synthesis and distribution. Problems in various molecules or signaling pathways involved in melanin synthesis contribute to skin pigmentation defects. Several trials have been conducted on the production of pigmentation-regulating agents, and drug repositioning has emerged as a modern technique to identify new uses for existing drugs. Our research team has researched substances or drugs associated with pigmentation control and, as a result, nilotinib, sorafenib, and ICG-001 have been found to promote pigmentation, while 5-iodotubercidin inhibits pigmentation. Therefore, these substances or medications were suggested as potential therapeutics for pigmentation disorders by drug repositioning.

Background Glutathione has become a potential skin-lightening ingredient after the discovery of its anti-melanogenic properties. Various mechanisms of action have been considered to explain this property, one of them being the skewing of the melanin synthesis pathway towards the production of lighter pheomelanin instead of darker eumelanin, consequently producing a lightening effect. Aims To evaluate the skin lightening and anti-dark spot effects of oral supplementation with L-Cystine associated with L-Glutathione as compared to placebo and benchmark. Methods Effects of this L-Cystine-L-Glutathione oral combination were investigated in a 12-week randomized, double-blind, parallel-group, benchmark- and placebo-controlled trial involving 124 Asian female subjects. Women were randomly allocated into 4 equal groups (500 mg L-Cystine and 250 mg L-Glutathione, 250 mg reduced L-Glutathione, 500 mg L-Cystine, or a placebo, daily). Skin color was measured at baseline, after 6 and 12 weeks by spectrophotometry. Size and color of facial dark spots were determined from digital photographs. Results A significant skin lightening was observed after 12 weeks of oral supplementation with L-Cystine associated with L-Glutathione. This combination also induced a significant reduction in the size of facial dark spots after 6 and 12 weeks. It is noteworthy that the observed effects were not only significantly better than those obtained with placebo, but also with L-Cystine alone or L-Glutathione alone. Conclusion The daily oral administration of 500 mg L-Cystine and 250 mg L-Glutathione during 12 weeks was a safe treatment to effectively lighten the skin and reduce the size of facial dark spots of Asian women.

Melanin is a common name for a group of biopolymers with the dominance of potential applications in medical sciences, cosmeceutical, bioremediation, and bioelectronic applications. The broad distribution of these pigments suggests their role to combat abiotic and biotic stresses in diverse life forms. Biosynthesis of melanin in fungi and bacteria occurs by oxidative polymerization of phenolic compounds predominantly by two pathways, 1,8-dihydroxynaphthalene [DHN] or 3,4-dihydroxyphenylalanine [DOPA], resulting in different kinds of melanin, i.e., eumelanin, pheomelanin, allomelanin, pyomelanin, and neuromelanin. The enzymes responsible for melanin synthesis belong mainly to tyrosinase, laccase, and polyketide synthase families. Studies have shown that manipulating culture parameters, combined with recombinant technology, can increase melanin yield for large-scale production. Despite significant efforts, its low solubility has limited the development of extraction procedures, and heterogeneous structural complexity has impaired structural elucidation, restricting effective exploitation of their biotechnological potential. Innumerable studies have been performed on melanin pigments from different taxa of life in order to advance the knowledge about melanin pigments for their efficient utilization in diverse applications. These studies prompted an urgent need for a comprehensive review on melanin pigments isolated from microorganisms, so that such review encompassing biosynthesis, bioproduction, characterization, and potential applications would help researchers from diverse background to understand the importance of microbial melanins and to utilize the information from the review for planning studies on melanin. With this aim in mind, the present report compares conventional and modern ideas for environment-friendly extraction procedures for melanin. Furthermore, the characteristic parameters to differentiate between eumelanin and pheomelanin are also mentioned, followed by their biotechnological applications forming the basis of industrial utilization. There lies a massive scope of work to circumvent the bottlenecks in their isolation and structural elucidation methodologies.

Tyrosinase is a key rate-limiting enzyme in the process of melanin synthesis, which is closely related to human pigmentation disorders. Tyrosinase inhibitors can down-regulate tyrosinase to effectively reduce melanin synthesis. In this work, we conducted structure-activity relationship (SAR) study on 1097 diverse mushroom tyrosinase inhibitors. We applied five kinds of machine learning methods to develop 15 classification models. Model 5B built by fully connected neural networks and ECFP4 fingerprints achieved the highest prediction accuracy of 91.36% and Matthews correlation coefficient (MCC) of 0.81 on the test set. The applicability domains (AD) of classification models were defined by