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An ultrasonic velocity profiler (UVP) acquires instantaneous distributions of axial velocity along the ultrasonic beam emitted from the transducer. In this paper, organizations of the transverse flows over a span of a laboratory wave flume in the surf zone were identified experimentally on the basis of UVP measurements. Ensemble mean divergent and convergent flows were observed over the span of the flume in the surf zone regardless of breaker conditions. By analogy with the flow evolution in a previous computation, by Watanabe and Saeki [1999], we identified that the organization of the wave-breaking-induced counterrotating vortices determined the spatial and temporal variations in the transverse flows at the early stages of the breaking process regardless of the widths of wave flumes and friction on the sidewalls and bottom. The observed transverse flows were driven by pairs of counter-rotating vortices produced under the breaking waves and the change in the orientation during the passage of breaking waves. The fundamental features of the transverse flows evolving in the breaking process, depending on the breaker type, are discussed statistically to parameterize velocity, time, and length scales of the variations of the transverse velocity. The dimensionless length and time scales had negative linear correlations with the Froude number (defined by relative transverse convection with respect to gravity) as well as a surf similarity parameter, which indicates that the gravity effect associated with the projections of the breaking wave crests defines the primary roller vorticity and shear intensity at the plunging location, resulting in destabilization of the flows in the transverse direction to form organized transverse flow structures.

From Tuesday, December 16, 2014, until Thursday, December 18, Hokkaido was battered by strong winds and high sea waves caused by a passing low pressure system intensified to typhoon levels. In the city of Nemuro, a rise in sea level influenced by the storm surge which exceeded quay height in port areas was observed from predawn Wednesday, December 17, 2014. Flooding was experienced in areas of central Nemuro, the Nemuro Port and estuaries of rivers. This technical note provides a comprehensive meteorological analysis and the results of a local flood survey carried out by the authors from December 19 to 21, 2014, and summarizes the characteristics of the 2014 Nemuro storm surge disaster.

An ultrasonic velocity profiler (UVP) acquires instantaneous distributions of axial velocity along the ultrasonic beam emitted from the transducer. In this paper, organizations of the transverse flows over a span of a laboratory wave flume in the surf zone were identified experimentally on the basis of UVP measurements. Ensemble mean divergent and convergent flows were observed over the span of the flume in the surf zone regardless of breaker conditions. By analogy with the flow evolution in a previous computation, by Watanabe and Saeki [1999], we identified that the organization of the wave-breaking-induced counterrotating vortices determined the spatial and temporal variations in the transverse flows at the early stages of the breaking process regardless of the widths of wave flumes and friction on the sidewalls and bottom. The observed transverse flows were driven by pairs of counter-rotating vortices produced under the breaking waves and the change in the orientation during the passage of breaking waves. The fundamental features of the transverse flows evolving in the breaking process, depending on the breaker type, are discussed statistically to parameterize velocity, time, and length scales of the variations of the transverse velocity. The dimensionless length and time scales had negative linear correlations with the Froude number (defined by relative transverse convection with respect to gravity) as well as a surf similarity parameter, which indicates that the gravity effect associated with the projections of the breaking wave crests defines the primary roller vorticity and shear intensity at the plunging location, resulting in destabilization of the flows in the transverse direction to form organized transverse flow structures.

A numerical computation of the 2011 Tohoku earthquake tsunami was performed to identify fundamental features of the tsunami evolution along the coast of Hokkaido, Japan. Edge waves formed at multiple locations where the refracted tsunami focused, governing local surface oscillations and regional variations in tsunami height along the Pacific coast of Hokkaido. The computation reasonably reproduced the distribution of surveyed tsunami height as well as the time records of surface elevation recorded at ports in Hokkaido. The major features of the frequency spectrum for the 2011 Tohoku tsunami were identical to those for the 2003 Tokachi-oki earthquake tsunami; inherent local properties of surface oscillation caused by the passage of edge waves existed, determined by the local bathymetry.

A numerical computation of the 2011 Tohoku earthquake tsunami was performed to identify fundamental features of the tsunami evolution along the coast of Hokkaido, Japan. Edge waves formed at multiple locations where the refracted tsunami focused, governing local surface oscillations and regional variations in tsunami height along the Pacific coast of Hokkaido. The computation reasonably reproduced the distribution of surveyed tsunami height as well as the time records of surface elevation recorded at ports in Hokkaido. The major features of the frequency spectrum for the 2011 Tohoku tsunami were identical to those for the 2003 Tokachi-oki earthquake tsunami; inherent local properties of surface oscillation caused by the passage of edge waves existed, determined by the local bathymetry.

Soluble reactive phosphorus (SRP), ammonia, nitrite+nitrate and Chl. a were measured in 24 surface waters from southern Lake Baikal in June 2002, while those in 17 surface water samples from southern and partly central Lake Baikal were determined in August of the same year. Water temperatures indicated that these two months were before and after the thermal stratification development, respectively. SRP and nitrite+nitrate decreased significantly and Chl. a, dominated by the <10 μ m fraction, increased 3-fold from June to August, while a similar low level of ammonia was recorded in these two months. Averages and standard deviations in June were 0.18±0.04 μ mol l-1 for SRP, 0.2±0.1 μ mol l-1 for ammonia, 3.3±0.7 μ mol l-1 for nitrite+nitrate and 0.6±0.1 μ g l-1 for Chl. a. Those in August were trace for SRP, 0.3±0.1 μ mol l-1 for ammonia, 0.4±0.1 μ mol l-1 for nitrite+nitrate and 1.7±0.5 μ g l-1 for Chl. a. These results suggest that SRP and nitrite+nitrate were supplied to the surface from deeper waters by seasonal mixing and taken up by phytoplankton during the development of thermal stratification. On the other hand, the distribution of ammonia in the surface water was independent from water movements, suggesting that the ammonia uptake and regeneration was in equilibrium at such a low concentrations throughout the year.

The dinoflagellate Pyrocystis lunula emits light in response to water motion. We developed a new imaging technique for measuring pressure using plankton that emits light in response to mechanical stimulation. The bioluminescence emitted by P. lunula was used to measure impact water pressure produced using weight drop tests. The maximum mean luminescence intensity correlated with the maximum impact pressure that the cells receive when the circadian and diurnal biological rhythms are appropriately controlled. Thus, with appropriate calibration of experimentally determined parameters, the dynamic impact pressure can be estimated by measuring the cell-flash distribution. Statistical features of the evolution of flash intensity and the probability distribution during the impacting event, which are described by both biological and mechanical response parameters, are also discussed in this paper. The practical applicability of this bioluminescence imaging technique is examined through a water drop test. The maximum dynamic pressure, occurring at the impact of a water jet against a wall, was estimated from the flash intensity of the dinoflagellate.

A novel imaging technique for identifying the locations of free-surface shapes was applied to three-dimensional hydraulic tests of coastal structures. Three-dimensional wave fields, consisting of superposed local reflected and diffracted waves, were measured around a breakwater and the mouth of a model harbor in a laboratory wave basin, and the results are consistent with the predictions of a Boussinesq-type equation model. The new technique was applied to surf zone waves to describe the organized deformation of breaking wave faces that evolve during wave propagation. Typical finger-shaped jets form in the wake of plunging jets, and a local depression trails behind a breaking wave front.