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The purpose of this report is to present the theory and technology of manufacturing two-ply yarn spun with the SiroSpun® method on a standard ring spinning machine and with the EliTwist® method on a compact ring spinning machine. The technological abilities of single processes of manufacturing two-ply yarn on a ring spinning machine with different modifications of double-apron threeroll drafting system are also categorized. Moreover, the impact of the spinning and twisting triangle on the quality of SiroSpun® and EliTwist® two-ply yarn made from various types of fibres was analyzed in the research. For standard two-ply yarn and EliTwist® two-fold yarn of different linear densities made from various types of cotton and wool fibres, various structural, mechanical-physical and Uster properties of woven yarn were compared. According to the findings, the EliTwist® method of spinning allows the use of a cheaper material to achieve the same yarn quality in comparison to the standard-making process of two-ply twisted yarn. Due to a better structural order and cooperation of all fibres in the structure of EliTwist® two-ply yarn, EliTwist® spinning process allows manufacturing of finer yarn made from fibres of the same linear density. The EliTwist® process for the production of two-ply yarn is the only process that also allows the economical and qualitative production of two-ply yarn on a ring spinning machine made from short staple fibres. The EliTwist® process is a method which according to its quality and economical parameters surpasses all previous production methods of SiroSpun® two-ply yarn and standard two-ply twisted yarn.

Geotekstilije so tehnične tekstilije, ki so med drugim namenjene za gradnjo cest, skozi katero voda neovirano prehaja (filtracija), a obenem zadržuje prehajanje delcev zemljine v smeri toka vode (ločevanje). Ustrezati mora specialnim zahtevam objekta nizke gradnje, med drugim tudi, da se njene lastnosti s časom ne smejo bistveno spremeniti. V disertaciji so predstavljeni postopki izdelave geotekstilij za gradnjo cest vključno z možnostjo recikliranja, njihove lastnosti in veljavni standardi na tem področju ter možnosti izboljšanja temeljnih tal z uporabo netkanih geotekstilij. Podan je pregled aktualnih raziskav na tem področju, ki se osredinjajo predvsem na izdelavo netkanih geotekstilij, surovinsko sestavo in prednosti ter slabosti. V okviru eksperimentalnega dela je bila izdelana podrobna analiza strukturnih lastnosti geotekstilij, ki se uporabljajo za ločevanje in filtracijo pri gradnji cest definirani so bili strukturni parametri še nerabljenih/intaktnih geotekstilij (premer in usmerjenost vlaken, poroznost in voluminoznost sloja netkane geotekstilije) podrobno in poglobljeno je bil analiziran odnos med strukturnimi parametri geotekstilij in končnimi lastnostmi uporabe, predvsem za filtracijske namene pri nizkih gradnjah (gradnji cest) izvedena je bila podrobna analiza strukturnih parametrov geotekstilij po izpostavitvi tlačnim obremenitvam pri 25 kPa, 100 kPa in 500 kPa za časovno obdobje od ene do 24 ur v laboratorijskem okolju. Tlačne obremenitve vplivajo na ločevalne in filtracijske lastnosti. V okviru raziskave smo prišli do naslednjih zaključkov: da z definiranjem premera in usmerjenosti vlaken v netkani geotekstiliji lahko pomembno vplivamo na odprtost površine in velikost por v netkani geotekstiliji ne vplivamo pa na stopnjo lezenja po daljši izpostavljenosti netkane geotekstilije. Stopnja lezenja, ki je odvisna od obremenitve in časa obremenjevanja, pomembno vpliva na odprtost površine in velikost por po daljši časovni izpostavljenosti in s tem na ločevalne in filtracijske lastnosti netkane geotekstilije. Število slojev pri polaganju in voluminoznost netkane geotekstilije lahko vplivajo na ločevalne in filtracijske lastnosti netkane geotekstilije kombinirani postopki utrjevanja (toplotno in mehansko utrjevanje) ne vplivajo na ločevalne in filtracijske lastnosti netkane geotekstilije. Na podlagi izvedenih raziskav smo ugotovili, da se pri netkanih geotekstilijah doseže najboljše uporabne lastnosti, če je ta izdelana po suhem mikalniškem postopku, kjer je v linijo vključen horizontalni križni polagalnik, in je utrjena zgolj mehansko z iglanjem na iglalniku, z delno vzdolžno orientacijo vlaken. Med analiziranimi netkanimi geotekstilijami je optimalne uporabne lastnosti imel vzorec, izdelan iz vlaken povprečne finoče 7,94 dtex, povprečnega premera 33,15 µm in specifično površino 1312 cm2/g čigar debelina je znašala 1,73 mm ploščinska masa 181 g/m2 velikost por 98 µm ter poroznost 0,885. Geotextiles are technical textiles with many applications, for instance, road construction, that enable uninterrupted water flow (filtration) and prevent soil particles passing in the direction of water flow (separation). They have to meet the requirements of civil engineering, such as that their characteristics should not change substantially over time. This paper introduces the manufacturing of geotextiles used for road construction, recycling possibility, characteristics, currently valid standards, and potential soil improvements by using non-woven geotextiles. We also present an overview of recent research in this field which focuses mostly on producing non-woven geotextiles, their composition, benefits, and shortcomings. The experimental part consisted of a detailed analysis of the structural characteristics of geotextiles used for separation and filtration in road construction. We defined structural parameters of unused geotextiles (diameter and direction of fibers, and non-woven layer's porousness and bulkiness). We analyzed in detail the relationship between geotextiles' structural parameters and final functional qualities, especially with regards to filtration in road construction. A detailed analysis of geotextiles' structural parameters was made after exposing samples to 25 kPa, 100 kPa, and 500 kPa of compressive load, from 1 to 24 hours, in a laboratory environment. The compressive load affects the separation and filtration characteristics. Our research showed that by defining the diameter and fiber direction, we can importantly influence non-woven geotextile's surface openness and pore size. We do not, however, influence the level of compression creep after prolonged use. The level of compression creep, which depends on the load and its duration, has an important influence on the non-woven geotextile's surface openness and pore size after prolonged use. This, in turn, affects its separation and filtration ability. The number of layers and bulkiness can affect non-woven geotextiles' separation and filtration characteristics, while combined (thermal and mechanical) bonding does not. Based on our experiment, we conclude that non-woven geotextiles have the best functional qualities if made using the dry laid (carded) process, horizontal crosslayer system, and reinforced only mechanically (using needles and partial longitudinal fiber orientation). Among the analyzed non-woven geotextiles, the optimal functional qualities were observed in a sample made of fibers with an average fineness of 7.94 dtex, an average diameter of 33.15 µm, specific area of 1312 cm2/g, thickness 1.73 mm, mass 181 g/m2 pore size 98 µm, and porosity 0.885.

V okviru diplomske naloge smo primerjali enajst različnih laminatov, od tega osem dvoslojnih in tri trislojne. Razlikujejo se po licni strani laminata (pletivo, netkana tekstilija), gostoti, debelini pene in posebnih lastnostih (večja zračna prepustnost in pene z nizkimi emisijami hlapnih organskih spojin). Glede na različne vrste laminatov se pri izdelavi uporabljajo tudi različni postopki laminiranja, kot so hot-melt, plamenska laminacija in laminiranje s prahom. Namen diplomskega dela je primerjava laminatov raznih struktur za avtomobilske sedeže, ki so izdelani z različnimi postopki laminacije, ter ugotoviti, katera kombinacija oziroma struktura laminata je najbolj optimalna za avtomobilski sedež. Izmerjene lastnosti analiziranih laminatov so odpornost proti drgnjenju najmanj 1.000 do največ 36.000 obratov, potrebnih za pretrg, ognjevarnost – samougasnost do druge oznake ali do prve oznake, prepustnost vodne pare – najnižja vrednost 59,17 gm-2h-1 in največja vrednost 89,35 gm-2h-1, zračna prepustnost – od 0,901 m3/m2min do 21,181 m3/m2min, pretržna sila – od 39,27 N do 155,35 N, pretržni raztezek – od 40,29 % do 152,02 %, toplotna prevodnost – od 0,082 Wm-1K-1 do 0,173 W m-1K-1, razslojevanje – v vzdolžni smeri najmanj 3,34 N in največ 9,88 N ter v prečni smeri – od 3,29 N do 8,39 N, ploščinska masa – od 168 g/m2 do 660 g/m2 in debelina – med 2,165 mm in 10,323 mm. Na preiskane lastnosti laminatov ne vplivata gostota in debelina pene, saj so si rezultati ne glede na razlike v peni precej podobni. Netkane tekstilije niso najbolj primerne kot druga komponenta laminata, ker so manj obstojne ob drgnjenju in imajo slabšo natezno trdnost. Laminati s pletivom imajo dobro odpornost ob drgnjenju, visoko zračno prepustnost in prepustnost vodne pare. So samougasni do prve ali druge oznake, kar pomeni, da od začetka vžiga zgorijo največ 50 mm. Trislojni laminati imajo slabšo toplotno prevodnost in zračno prepustnost kot dvoslojni laminati. Within the framework of the bachelor’s thesis, we compared eleven different laminates, of which eight were two-layered and three three-layered. They are distinguished by their front side (knitwear or non-wovens), density, foam thickness, and special properties (higher air permeability or low-volatile organic compound). Depending on the different types of laminates, different laminating processes were used, such as hot melt, flame lamination, and powder laminating. The purpose of the bachelor’s thesis is to find which combination of the laminate structure is the most optimal for a car seat and with what laminating process it is made of. Measured properties of the laminates we analyzed are abrasion resistance from 1,000 turns to a maximum of 36,000 turns, fire resistance to second mark or to the first mark, water vapor transmission – the lowest value 59.17 gm-²h-1 and maximum value 89.35 gm-²h-1, air permeability – from 0.901 m³/m²min to 21.181 m³/m²min, breaking force – from 39.27 N to 155.35 N, tensile displacement – from 40.29% to 152.02%, thermal conductivity – 0.082 Wm-1K-1 to 0.173 W m-1K-1, layering – in the longitudinal direction 3.34 N, maximum 9.88 N, and in the exact direction 3.29 N up to 8.39 N, surface mass – from 168 g/m² to 660 g/m² in thickness – between 2.165 mm at 10.323 mm. The investigated properties of the laminates are not influenced by the density and the foam thickness since the results are similar with all foam types. Non-woven textiles are not the best option to choose as the second component because they do not have good results at the abrasion resistance and tensile strength. Laminates with a knitted second compound have good abrasion resistance, high air permeability, and water vapor permeability. They are self-extinguishing to the first or the second mark, which means that they burn a maximum of 50 mm from the start of the ignition. Three-layered laminates have less of thermal conductivity and air-permeability than two-layered laminates.

V okviru diplomskega dela sta bili analizirani dvonitni sukani efektni preji, ki zaradi svoje strukture spadata med efektne preje s strukturnimi efekti. Prva je izdelana iz mešanice 81 % bombaža in 19 % viskoze, druga pa iz mešanice 67 % viskoze in 33 % lana. Za namen raziskave so bile izdelane tkanine z dvonitno sukano efektno prejo, pri treh različnih gostotah v votku (10 niti/cm, 13 niti/cm in 16 niti/cm), v vezavi keper 1/3 Z. Teoretični del zajema zgodovinski razvoj izdelave efektnih prej, podrobno obravnavo glavnih štirih postopkov izdelave, vrste in strukturo efektnih prej, lastnosti, uporabo ter svetovni in evropski trg efektnih prej. Eksperimentalni del je sestavljen iz treh delov v prvem so bile raziskane strukturne lastnosti analiziranih efektnih prej (dolžinska masa efektne preje, pogostost ponavljanja efektov na meter preje, smer vitja efektne preje, število zavojev temeljnega in efektnega dela, premer vlaken, premer temeljnega in efektnega dela, dolžinska masa posameznih komponent, smer vitja posameznih komponent, procent vsuka posameznih komponent), v drugem delu so bile raziskane konstrukcijske lastnosti analiziranih tkanin z efektno prejo v votku (ploščinska masa, debelina, gostota osnovnih in votkovnih niti, odprtost površine) in v tretjem delu prepustnostne lastnosti analiziranih tkanin z efektno prejo, pri čemer je bila večja pozornost namenjena zračni prepustnosti in prepustnosti vodne pare. Rezultati diplomskega dela so pokazali, da imajo vzorci s prvo dvonitno sukano efektno prejo (81 % bombaž in 19 % viskoza) v votku večjo zračno prepustnost in prepustnost vodne pare, medtem ko imajo vzorci z drugo dvonitno sukano efektno prejo (67 % viskoza in 33 % lan) manjšo odpornost proti drgnjenju in slabšo dimenzijsko stabilnost pri pranju. Within the framework of the bachelor’s thesis, two-ply fancy yarns were analyzed. Because of their structure, they are classified as fancy yarns with structural effects. The first is made of the mix of 81 % cotton and 19 % viscose. The second is made of the mix of 67 % viscose and 33 % flax. For the purpose of the research, woven fabrics containing two-ply fancy yarn were made in three different densities in weft (10 threads per cm, 13 threads per cm, and 16 threads per cm) in the twill weave 1/3 Z. The theoretical part includes the historical development of the production of the fancy yarns, a detailed discussion of the main four production processes, the types and the structure of the fancy yarns, their use, and the global and European market of the fancy yarns. The experimental part consists of three parts. In the first part, the structural properties of the analyzed fancy yarns were researched (the fineness of the fancy yarn, the frequency of repeating the effects per one meter of the yarn, the direction of twisting the fancy yarn, the number of the twists of the basic and the effective part, the diameter of the fibers, the diameter of the basic and the effective part, the fineness of individual components, the direction of the twist of individual components, and the percentage of the inside twist of individual components). In the second part, constructional properties of the analyzed woven fabrics with the fancy yarn were researched (area mass, thickness, the density of the wrap and weft threads, and openness of the surface). In the third part, permeability properties of the analyzed woven fabrics with the fancy yarn were researched where greater attention was paid to air permeability and water vapor permeability. The results of the bachelor’s thesis showed that the samples with the first two-ply fancy yarn (81 % cotton and 19 % viscose) have greater air permeability and water vapor permeability in the weft. Meanwhile, the samples with the second two-ply fancy yarn (67 % viscose and 33 % flax) have lesser abrasion resistance and poorer dimensional stability while being washed.

Tehnične tekstilije, ki se uporabljajo za oblačilne namene (“cloth tech”), so predvsem vlaknovine oz. netkane strukture. Vlaknovine se uporabljajo tudi v obutveni industriji in so izdelane predvsem za funkcionalne namene v obutvi, pri čemer estetske lastnosti niso tako pomembne. Uporabljajo se predvsem za oporo in ojačitev obutve. To so lahko tkanine, pletiva ali vlaknovine oz. netkane strukture, izdelane direktno iz vlaken, prej ali sukancev, predvsem iz kemičnih vlaken, v manjši meri tudi iz naravnih vlaken. Zahteve pri tovrstnih materialih so predvsem v smeri dobrih mehanskih lastnosti (pri tlačni obremenitvi), odpornosti proti obrabi, dobrih prepustnostnih lastnostih, toplotni upornosti in s tem povezane strukture vlaknovine oz. kompozitnega materiala. Namen magistrskega dela je tako ugotavljati vpliv tehnološkega postopka na odzivnost obutvenih vlaknovin. Analizirane obutvene vlaknovine v okviru dela so tako na eni strani premazane in sestavni del dvoslojnega laminata na drugi strani. Pri tem sta bila uporabljena dva različna tehnološka postopka (premazovanje in laminacija). Rezultati raziskave so pokazali, da imajo laminirani vzorci višjo pretržno napetost in elastični povratek pri tlačnem obremenjevanju od premazanih vzorcev. Po obdelavi se pretržna napetost zmanjša pri laminiranih vzorcih L1, L2 in L4 (pri L2 in L4 malenkostno), pri čemer obdelava ne vpliva na elastični povratek pri tlačnem obremenjevanju. Laminirani vzorci imajo tudi višjo prepustnost vodne pare in nižjo absorpcijo vode od premazanih vzorcev, pri čemer se po obdelavi ne spremenita bistveno. Obdelava vzorcev za 24 ur v destilirani vodi in obremenjevanje pri obremenitvi 789,6 N vpliva le na znižanje pretržne napetosti pri laminiranih vzorcih in kapilarnega dviga pri enem od laminiranih (L3) in premazanih vzorcih (P5) in zvišanje zračne prepustnosti laminiranih vzorcev. Pri premazanih vzorcih zračne prepustnosti namreč ni bilo moč izmeriti. Nonwovens present a part of technical textiles that are used for clothing (»cloth tech«). Nonwovens are also used in footwear industry mainly for functional purposes where estetic properties don`t have a great importance. They are mainly used for support and reinforcement of footwear. All three groups of textiles are used for footwear, woven fabrics, knitted fabrics and nonwovens that are produced directly from fibres, yarns or threads mainly from chemical fibres and in a small propotion from natural fibres. Requirements for footwear textiles are that they have good mechanical properties (at compressive loading), abrasion resistance, premeability properties and heat resistance. The properties mentioned above are in the close connection with the nonwoven structure or composite materials. The basic intention of the presented research is to analyse the influence of technology process on nonwovens for footwear responsivenss. Analysed footwear nonwovens in framework of present work are on one side coated but on the other side constitnent part of two layer laminate. For this purpose two different technological processes were used (coating and lamination). Results of the presented research have shown that laminated samples express higher breaking strength and elastical recovery at compressive loading than coated samples. Breaking strength decreased after treatment of laminated samples L1, L2 and L4 (very small decrease was calculated for samples L2 and L4). Treatment hasn`t important influence on elastic recovery at compressive loading. Laminated samples express higher water permeability and lower absorption of water than coated samples, even after 24 hours treatment in the distilled water and compressive loading. Treatment of specimens in destilled water for 24 h and compressive load of 789,6 N influences only on the breaking strength decrease of laminated samples and wicking height at one laminated (L3) and one coated (P5) sample. On the other side the air permeability of laminated samples after treatment is higher than with original samples, before treatment. Air permeability could not be measured on coated samples.

Namen diplomskega dela je ugotoviti vpliv lastnosti air-jet preje iz mešanice bombažnih, poliamidnih in poliestrnih vlaken na uporabne lastnosti tkanine. V prvem delu raziskave so obravnavane mehanske in fizikalne lastnosti air-jet preje iz CO/PA in CO/PES vlaken, dolžinskih mas 15,8 tex in 16,8 tex. V nadaljevanju so raziskane tudi mehanske lastnosti tkanine, izdelane iz air-jet preje v votku. V drugem delu raziskave je večja pozornost namenjena prepustnostnim lastnostim tkanin z air-jet prejo v votku. Med pomembnejše prepustnostne lastnosti sodijo prepustnost vodne pare, zračna prepustnost in toplotna prevodnost, ki so zelo pomembne z vidika udobja. Za primerjavo je bila izdelana tkanina iz bombažne prstanske preje v votku dolžinske mase 14,6 tex. Rezultati raziskave so pokazali, da prisotnost air-jet preje v tkanini vpliva na mehanske lastnosti tkanine v smeri votka. Tkanini, ki v votku vsebujeta CO prstansko prejo (tkanina 1 in 2), imata v smeri osnove in votka večjo pretržno napetost kot ostale tkanine, ki imajo v votku air-jet prejo (pri enakih gostotah). Tkanini s CO/PA air-jet prejo v votku (tkanina 3 in 4) pri isti gostoti izkazujeta večjo pretržno napetost in raztezek v primerjavi s tkaninama, ki imata v votku CO/PES air-jet prejo (tkanina 5 in 6). Tkanini s CO/PA air-jet prejo v votku imata proti pričakovanju tudi manjši elastični povratek kot tkanine, ki imajo v votku CO prstansko in CO/PES air-jet prejo. Tkanine z air-jet prejo v votku imajo večjo toplotno prevodnost in prepustnost vodne pare ter manjšo zračno prepustnost v primerjavi s tkaninama, ki v votku vsebujeta CO prstansko prejo. The purpose of this diploma thesis is to determine impact of cotton, polyamide and polyester spun air-jet yarn on the useful properties of woven fabrics. In the first part of the study mechanical and physical properties of air-jet yarn made of cotton-polyamide (15,8 tex) and cotton-polyester (16,8 tex) are researched. Further on, also mechanical properties of woven fabric made of air-yet yarn are researched and discussed. The second part of the study is primarily focused on transmission properties of the fabric with air-jet yarn in weft. Considering comfort, thermal conductivity, water vapor transsmision and air permeability are the most important transsmision properties. To compare all listed properties, an additional fabric woven with cotton ring spun yarn (14,6 tex) was produced. Results have shown that the presence of air-jet spun yarn in fabric has changed the mechanical and physical properties of fabric itself. Fabric 1 and 2 made of CO ring spun yarn in weft have a higher tensile strenght in the direction of the weft and warp, than all other fabrics with air-jet spun yarn in weft (at the same fabric density). Fabric 3 and 4 with CO/PA air-jet yarn in weft have shown a higher tensile strength and extension when compared to fabric 5 and 6 with CO/PES air-jet yarn in weft (at the same fabric density). Contrary to expectations, the results of fabric with CO/PA air-jet yarn in weft have shown a lower elastic recovery than the fabric with CO ring spun yarn in weft. Fabrics with air-jet yarn in weft have higher thermal conductivity, water vapor transmission and a lower air permeability in comparison to fabric made of CO ring spun yarn in weft.