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BACKGROUND As the eye contour ages, the skin on the lid becomes lax often causing a voluminous protrusion where the superior palpebral sulcus begins to sag onto the upper eyelid. This sagging feature may present a novel anti-ageing target for cosmetic products when treating the eye area. A quantitative method to evaluate the volume of this sagging feature has not been previously established. We investigate the use of the DermaTOP fringe projector and Antera 3D Camera to this end. METHODS Eyelid topographic measurements were collected on 20 female volunteers aged 50-75 years with the DermaTOP and Antera 3D. The DermaTOP and Antera 3D measurements were assessed for reproducibility and product effect detection capabilities. RESULTS The DermaTOP and Antera 3D successfully measured sagging feature volume, demonstrated reproducibility of measurement and furthermore were suitably sensitive to allow for detection of sagging feature volume reduction after a single application of aqueous tightening serum. DermaTOP parameters were found to moderately correlated with the Antera 3D parameters. CONCLUSION Both the DermaTOP and Antera 3D allow for quantitative measurement of eyelid sagging feature volume and in-turn permit evaluation of anti-ageing cosmetic preparations targeting the eyelid.

Background The cause of enlarged pores remains obscure but still remains of concern for women. To complement subjective methods, bioengineered methods are needed for quantification of pores visibility following treatments. The study objective was to demonstrate the suitability of pore measurements from the Antera 3D. Material and methods Pore measurements were collected on 22 female volunteers aged 18-65 years with the Antera 3D, the DermaTOP and image analysis on photographs. Additionally, 4 raters graded pore size on photographs on a scale 0-5. Repeatability of Antera 3D parameters was ascertained and the benefit of a pore minimizer product on the cheek was assessed on a sub panel of seven female volunteers. Results Pore parameters using the Antera were shown to depict pore severity similar to raters on photographs, except for Max Depth. Mean pore volume, mean pore area and count were moderately correlated with DermaTOP parameters (up to r = .50). No relationship was seen between the Antera 3D and pore visibility analysis on photographs. The most repeatable parameters were found to be mean pore volume, mean pore area and max depth, especially for the small and medium filters. The benefits of a pore minimizer product were the most striking for mean pore volume and mean pore area when using the small filter for analysis, rather than the medium/large ones. Conclusion Pore measurements with the Antera 3D represent a reliable tool for efficacy and field studies, with an emphasis of the small filter for analysis for the mean pore volume/mean pore area parameters.

Background Skin topographic measurements are of paramount importance in the field of dermo-cosmetic evaluation. The aim of this study was to investigate how the Antera 3D, a multi-purpose handheld camera, correlates with other topographic techniques and changes in skin topography following the use of a cosmetic product. Methods Skin topographic measurements were collected on 26 female volunteers aged 45-70 years with the Antera 3D, the DermaTOP and image analysis on parallel-polarized pictures. Different filters for analysis from the Antera 3D were investigated for repeatability, correlations with other imaging techniques and ability to detect improvements of skin topography following application of a serum. Results Most of Antera 3D parameters were found to be strongly correlated with the DermaTOP parameters. No association was found between the Antera 3D parameters and measurements on parallel-polarized photographs. The measurements repeatability was comparable among the different filters for analysis, with the exception of wrinkle max depth and roughness Rt. Following a single application of a tightening serum, both Antera 3D wrinkles and texture parameters were able to record significant improvements, with the best improvements observed with the large filter. Conclusion The Antera 3D demonstrated its relevance for cosmetic product evaluation. We also provide recommendations for the analysis based on our findings.

Summary Background The pathophysiology of cellulite involves changes in the subcutaneous adipose layer and the extracellular matrix (ECM) that supports it together with overlying dermal layer. Cellular mechanisms governing cellulite are not fully understood. However, it is accepted that changes include enhanced lipogenesis, decreased lipolysis, and increased lipid storage within the adipocytes as well as changes in the dermal architecture. Aim In our studies the ability of cosmetic agents Furcellaria lumbricalis, Fucus vesiculosus, retinoid, conjugated linoleic acid (CLA), and a glaucine mixture to stimulate in vitro1) lipolysis in human adipocytes and 2) production of pro-collagen I by fibroblasts was investigated in vitro. The ability of these ingredients to improve cellulite condition in vivo was also determined. Patients/Methods Mature adipocytes and 'aged' fibroblasts were used for in vitro studies. The assessment of cellulite in vivo was performed by dermatological grading and ultrasound measurements. Results Mature adipocytes treated with combined actives resulted in a significant synergistic increase in free glycerol release. On “aged” fibroblasts, combined treatment of F. vesiculosus and F. lumbricalis stimulated pro-collagen I production. CLA increased pro-collagen I production, but the glaucine mixture had no effect. The clinical study demonstrated a significant improvement in cellulite grading by a dermatologist after 8 and 12 weeks vs. vehicle, and ultrasound imaging showed a significant decrease in fat thickness compared with placebo after 12 weeks. Conclusions Our studies revealed a potent cocktail of ingredients that when combined together can act in vitro to markedly improve lipolysis mechanisms and by way of stimulating pro-collagen I can also have an effect on the surrounding extracellular matrix. The in vitro actions of the ingredients were translated in vivo, where a clinical improvement of cellulite condition was observed.

The pathophysiology of cellulite involves changes in the subcutaneous adipose layer and the extracellular matrix (ECM) that supports it together with overlying dermal layer. Cellular mechanisms governing cellulite are not fully understood. However, it is accepted that changes include enhanced lipogenesis, decreased lipolysis, and increased lipid storage within the adipocytes as well as changes in the dermal architecture.In our studies the ability of cosmetic agents Furcellaria lumbricalis, Fucus vesiculosus, retinoid, conjugated linoleic acid (CLA), and a glaucine mixture to stimulate in vitro 1) lipolysis in human adipocytes and 2) production of pro-collagen I by fibroblasts was investigated in vitro. The ability of these ingredients to improve cellulite condition in vivo was also determined.Mature adipocytes and 'aged' fibroblasts were used for in vitro studies. The assessment of cellulite in vivo was performed by dermatological grading and ultrasound measurements.Mature adipocytes treated with combined actives resulted in a significant synergistic increase in free glycerol release. On "aged" fibroblasts, combined treatment of F. vesiculosus and F. lumbricalis stimulated pro-collagen I production. CLA increased pro-collagen I production, but the glaucine mixture had no effect. The clinical study demonstrated a significant improvement in cellulite grading by a dermatologist after 8 and 12 weeks vs. vehicle, and ultrasound imaging showed a significant decrease in fat thickness compared with placebo after 12 weeks.Our studies revealed a potent cocktail of ingredients that when combined together can act in vitro to markedly improve lipolysis mechanisms and by way of stimulating pro-collagen I can also have an effect on the surrounding extracellular matrix. The in vitro actions of the ingredients were translated in vivo, where a clinical improvement of cellulite condition was observed.