1. Humulus lupulus L.: cosmetic application of extracts obtained from cones and vegetative parts
- Author
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Alves, Silena Silva Delgado, Afonso, Andrea Luísa Fernandes, Cardoso, Susana M., Sousa, Maria João, and Pereira, Olívia R.
- Subjects
Phenolic composition ,Humulus lupulus L ,Hop ,Cosmetic formulation ,Antimicrobial activity ,Vegetative parts - Abstract
Nowadays there is an increasing interest in the search for bioactive compounds obtained from aromatic and medicinal plants. Hop (Humulus lupulus L.) is known worldwide as an essential raw material for the beer industry, however, recent studies have revealed health benefits. In the beer production process, only the cones of hop are used, while the vegetative part of the plant is discarded and not valorized albeit its richness in interesting compounds. In this work, we have studied the phytochemical profile of polar extracts of hop and of the essential oil of T. zygis subsp. zygis, and further evaluated their antibacterial and antifungal capacities. Moreover, gel formulations incorporating distinct levels of hop extracts (1.25%, 2.5% and 5%) from cones and vegetative parts of the varieties Nugget and Polaris of hop and spontaneous hop, combined with essential oil of Thymus zygis subsp. zygis, were developed and the stability of the new cosmetic products was evaluated. UHPLC-DAD-ESI-MS2 analysis was used for phytochemical study of hydroalcoholic hop extracts. The antimicrobial properties of these extracts and of the essential oil of T. zygis subsp. zygis were determined by microdilution broth method and the diffusion in agar test. Additionally, the stability of the gel formulations was evaluated through a series of physical-chemical tests such as the pH, density, texture evaluation, mechanical vibration, centrifugation, relative humidity, light test, consecutive extreme temperature variation and evaluation of organoleptic characteristics. The stability tests did not reveal phase separation or liquefaction of the prepared gel samples. There were no changes recorded in vibration test, in the organoleptic characteristics of the formulations, the relative humidity test, as well as in the extreme temperature variation test. The formulations showed an acid pH, between 5.93±0.047 and 6.16±0.047. The apparent density of the formulations were between 1.08±0.00 Kg/m-3 and 1.12±0.00 Kg/m-3. Although hop extracts had no antimicrobial effect, the essential oil of T. zygis subsp. zygis showed antibacterial and antifungal activities against all strains of bacteria and fungi tested, with higher potency against S. aureus (MIC = 0.031%) than for P. aeruginosa (MIC = 1.25%). The study of the phenolic profile of cones and vegetative parts of the polar extracts of hop, allowed the identification of thirty compounds, of which alpha and beta acids, phenolic acids and flavonoids. In conclusion, the study explored the vegetative part of hop that remain poorly studied allowing propose them as ingredient in cosmetic area. Thanks to FCT (Portugal) and the ERDF under the PT2020 Program for financial support to CIMO (UIDB/00690/2020) and LAQVREQUIMTE (UIDB/50006/2020). SMC acknowledges the research contract under the project AgroForWealth (CENTRO-01-0145-FEDER-000001). info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersion
- Published
- 2021