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In this study, in operandi SAXS experiments were conducted on samples of human hair with a varying degree of strain (2% within the elastic region and 10% beyond). Four different features in the SAXS patterns were evaluated: The intermediate filament distance perpendicular to and the distance from the meridional arc in the load direction, as well as the distances of the lipid bilayer peak in and perpendicular to the load direction. From the literature, one concludes that polar lipids in the cuticle are the origin of the lipid peak in the SAXS pattern, and this study shows that the observed strain in the lipids is much lower than in the intermediate filaments. We support these findings with SEM micrographs, which show that the scales in the cuticle deform much less than the cortex. The observed deformation of the intermediate filaments is very high, about 70% of the macrostrain, and the ratio of the transverse strain to the longitudinal strain at the nanoscale gives a Poisson ratio of νnano = 0.44, which is typical for soft matter. This work also finds that by varying the time period between two strain cycles, the typical strain recovery time is about 1000 min, i.e., one day. After this period, the structure is nearly identical to the initial structure, which suggests an interpretation that this is the typical time for the self-healing of hair after mechanical treatment.

Yak belly hair was proposed as a cheap substitute for human hair for the development of hair dyes, as its chemical composition closely resembles human hair in Raman spectroscopy. The absence of melanin in yak belly hair also leads to a strong reduction of fluorescence in Raman measurements, which is advantageous for the investigation of the effectivity of hair dyes. To assess the suitability for replacing human hair, we analyzed similarities and differences of both hair types with a variety of methods: Raman spectroscopy, to obtain molecular information; small-angle X-ray scattering to determine the nanostructure, such as intermediate filament distance, distance of lipid layers and nanoporosity; optical and scanning electron microscopy of surfaces and cross sections to determine the porosity at the microstructural level; and density measurements and tensile tests to determine the macroscopic structure, macroporosity and mechanical properties. Both types of hair are similar on a molecular scale, but differ on other length scales: yak belly hair has a smaller intermediate filament distance on the nanoscale. Most striking is a higher porosity of yak belly hair on all hierarchical levels, and a lower Young’s modulus on the macroscale. In addition to the higher porosity, yak belly hair has fewer overlapping scales of keratin, which further eases the uptake of coloring. This makes, on the other hand, a comparison of coloring processes difficult, and limits the usefulness of yak belly hair as a substitute for human hair.