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Purpose: Power output is dependent on the load used during exercise such as bench-press throw (BPT). Attentional focus (external [EXT] vs internal [INT]) during exercise significantly modulates power performance. The purpose of the present study was to examine the effects of load and attentional focus on mechanical parameters during BPT. Methods: In a crossover study, 31 resistance-trained men (mean age 23.5 [3.0] y) performed BPT at 30% (light), 50% (moderate), and 70% (heavy) of 1-repetition maximum (1-RM) using an INT or EXT focus of attention in randomized order. A linear encoder was used to identify barbell vertical displacement, throw time, peak/average velocity, force, and power during the concentric lifting phase. Results: Statistical analysis revealed significant load × focus interaction effects for velocity and vertical displacement (P ≤.045; 0.66 ≤ d ≤ 0.89). Post hoc analyses indicated significantly larger velocities and displacements at 30% and 70% of 1-RM in favor of EXT (P ≤.038; 0.79 ≤ d ≤ 1.13) but similar values at 50% of 1-RM (P >.05). Furthermore, significant main effects of load were found for throw time, force, and power (P <.001; 4.20 ≤ d ≤ 14.0). While time and force gradually increased with higher loads (P <.001; 1.45 ≤ d ≤ 14.0), power output was larger at 50% compared with 30% and 70% 1-RM (P <.001; 3.09 ≤ d ≤ 7.07), irrespective of attentional focus. Conclusions: The present findings indicated that practitioners may use EXT over INT attentional focus to enhance velocity and vertical displacement during BPT at light and heavy loads (ie, 30% and 70% 1-RM). At moderate loads (ie, 50% 1-RM), mechanical bench-press parameters appear to be less affected by attentional focus. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The aim of the study was to examine the effects of a 5-week dynamic finger flexor strength training program on bouldering performance and climbing-specific strength tests. Advanced to elite level boulderers (n = 31) were randomized to a dynamic finger strength training group (DFS) or a control group (CON). The DFS training program consisted of 3 weekly sessions (3–5 sets, 4–10 repetitions per session). Both groups continued bouldering training as usual throughout the intervention period. Pre- and post-intervention measures included bouldering performance, maximal dynamic finger strength, isometric finger strength (peak and average force), and rate of force development (RFD). The DFS demonstrated greater improvement in dynamic finger strength (11.5%, 3.9 kg) than the CON (5.3%, 1.7 kg; p = 0.075, ES = 0.90), but there were no differences between the groups in 1RM (p = 0.075, ES = 0.67), bouldering performance (p = 0.39, ES = 0.35), isometric finger strength (p = 0.42–0.56, ES = 0.20–0.22) or RFD (p = 0.30, ES = 0.46). The DFS improved dynamic (p < 0.01, ES = 1.83) and isometric peak and average (p < 0.01, ES = 0.98, and p < 0.01, ES = 0.75, respectively) finger strength, while the CON only increased dynamic finger strength (p < 0.05, ES = 0.58). None of groups improved bouldering performance or RFD (p = 0.07–0.58). In conclusion, 5 weeks of DFS training improving dynamic strength to a greater extent than bouldering alone in addition to improving isometric finger strength among advanced boulderers. Isolated bouldering improved dynamic finger flexor strength, but importantly, increased finger strength (dynamic or isometric) did not improve bouldering performance. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Recent research has elucidated the effects of strength training on climbing performance. Although local muscular endurance training of the upper-limbs and finger flexors is frequently suggested, there is currently insufficient evidence to support its impact on climbing performance and climbing-specific strength. Furthermore, there is no evidence on climbers' experiences related to training and the likelihood of consistent engagement. In addition, the effects of more climbing-specific strength training on walls with built in lights and adjustable angles have yet to be examined. The low percentage of studies involving female subjects, additionally, demonstrates a significant gap in understanding the specific effects of strength training on women in the context of climbing. The aim of this study was thus to assess the effects of five-week on-, and off-the-wall climbing training on climbing performance, climbing-specific strength, and training experience. Thirty-one female lower-grade to advanced climbers were randomly assigned to either a control group, an off-the-wall training or an on-the-wall training group. Apart from the training regimen, all groups followed their usual climbing and bouldering routine. Subjects trained at least twice a week. Bouldering performance, and maximum strength and muscular endurance of the finger flexors and upper-limbs were assessed before and after the intervention. Furthermore, rate of perceived exertion and discomfort, exercise enjoyment, and exercise pleasure were assessed during the first and last training session, as well as after two and a half weeks of training. Intrinsic training motivation was assessed after the last training session. The results showed trends towards positive effects of off-the-wall training on climbing-specific strength, and on-the-wall training on climbing technique. Furthermore, our finding revealed high exercise enjoyment and intrinsic training motivation for both on- and off-the-wall training. Hence, lower-grade to advanced female climbers should rely on personal training preferences. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Purpose: The Nordic hamstring exercise (NHE) has been shown to considerably reduce hamstring injuries among soccer players. However, as the load in the NHE is the person's own bodyweight, it is a very heavy exercise and difficult to individualize. The flywheel inertial leg curl (FLC) could be an alternative since the eccentric overload is based on the amount of work produced in the concentric movement. Therefore, the primary aim of this study was to compare the activation in the hamstrings at long muscle lengths in the NHE and the FLC in amateur soccer players. Methods: Fifteen male amateur soccer players performed 5 repetitions in each exercise in a randomized and counterbalanced order. The concentric and eccentric movements were divided into lower and upper phases. Surface EMG was measured distally, proximally, and in the middle, at both muscles. Results: In the lower phase in the eccentric movement, there were no significant differences between the 2 exercises (P =.101–.826). In the lower concentric movement, the FLC led to higher activation in all parts of both the biceps femoris (31%–52%, P <.001) and the semitendinosus (20%–35%, P =.001–.023). Conclusion: Both exercises activated the hamstrings similarly at long muscle lengths during eccentric contractions (Nordic hamstring, nonsignificantly higher). However, when performing concentric contractions, the FLC induced higher activations. Therefore, the FLC could be a useful alternative to the NHE and particularly suitable for weaker athletes before progressing to NHE. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The aim of the present study was to compare the effects of assisted and resisted plyometric jump training on jump height, sprint performance (acceleration (0–20m), maximum speed (30–40m) and 40m sprint time) among physically active females. Fifty-six participants (age: 21.1 ± 1.7 years; body mass: 64.2 ± 7.0 kg; height: 168.0 ± 5.6 cm) were randomly allocated to either an assisted (n = 16) or resisted training group (n = 17), or a control group (n = 14). Nine participants dropped out during the intervention. The training sessions consisted of three different plyometric jump exercises over an eight-week period, while the control group continued their normal training routine. The results revealed a significant between-group difference in jump height and maximal speed. The resisted training group achieved a significantly greater improvement in jump height compared to the active control group (p =.04, ES=1.06), and a significantly greater improvement in maximal speed (p =.02, ES = 0.93) when compared to the assisted training group. No other group differences were observed for jump height, acceleration or in maximal speed (p =.31–.53). The resisted training group improved jump height (p =.01, ES = 0.62) and maximum speed (p =.03, ES = 0.48) from pre- to post-test, while the control group improved maximal speed (p =.04, ES = 0.37) and acceleration (p =.01, ES = 0.68). All three groups improved their 40m sprint time from pre- to post-test (p =.01–.04, ES = 0.38–0.45). In conclusion, resisted plyometric training was more effective than assisted plyometric training for improving the maximal speed and more effective than the active control condition for increasing jump height. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Shaw, MP, Andersen, V, Sæterbakken, AH, Paulsen, G, Samnøy, LE, and Solstad, TEJ. Contemporary training practices of Norwegian powerlifters. J Strength Cond Res 36(9): 2544–2551, 2022—The aim of this study was to explore the contemporary training practices of Norwegian powerlifters. One hundred twenty-four Norwegian powerlifters completed an electronic questionnaire that surveyed their current training practices with a focus on 2 areas: (a) training content and (b) training design and monitoring. One hundred seventeen respondents met the inclusion criteria, and the sample included World, European, and Norwegian champions. Where data were dichotomized, chi-square tests were used. The most frequently reported (58.1%) category of training was 5–6 times per week, with no statistically significant associations between levels of competitors (international vs. noninternational) (X2(1) = 0.414, p = 0.52). The most frequently reported load used in training was 71–80% 1 repetition maximum. The majority of Norwegian (76.9%) powerlifters train with variable resistance, with those competing internationally more likely to use elastic bands (X2(1) = 4.473, p = 0.034). 32.5% of respondents reported that they included strength training exercises in their training. Norwegian powerlifters' training differs from practices previously identified in the literature, with a higher prevalence of elastic resistance, particularly for those competing internationally, and a decreased use of strength training exercises at all levels. Norwegian powerlifters train frequently (5 or more times per week) and with submaximal loads. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]