12,069 results on '"COSTUME"'
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2. Increasing Mannequin Diversity in Museum Exhibitions to Address Social Equity: Making a Case for the "Forest People".
- Author
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Bissonnette, Anne
- Subjects
- *
FOREST people , *TEXTILE exhibitions , *CURATORSHIP , *MUSEUM exhibits , *COSTUME - Abstract
For too long, museums have used thin, white mannequins as the standard for body surrogates in dress and textile exhibitions. This article explores some of the issues surrounding this practice and the message these objects may convey. As an actionable step towards social equity, it offers an alternative called the "Forest People" that aims to address issues of diversity and inclusion in curatorial and display practices. Inspired by tree diversity, the Forest People is a solution that draws from the past to create a new version of artists' wooden lay figures. It replicates different wood colors and grains and can lend itself to presenting a variety of different races while still fading in the background and conveying an aesthetically pleasing and visually coherent ensemble. The article reflects on the development of a prototype for the exhibition Woven Identities: Ghanaian and Guatemalan Textiles in the Face of Globalization (2023) at the University of Alberta, and its effectiveness and potential developments. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
- Published
- 2024
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
3. "All the Ba-zooms Go": Industry Ideals and the Aesthetics of Size in Dress Collections.
- Author
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Libes, Kenna
- Subjects
- *
DECORATIVE arts , *CLOTHING & dress , *DISCRIMINATION against overweight persons , *COSTUME , *OBESITY - Abstract
Fatness may be finding representation on the catwalk, but it has few friends in the museum. This article uses a case study of the Costume Institute alongside interviews with a variety of museum professionals and dealers of historic clothing to discuss the culture of acquisition and exhibition that tends to exclude larger garments from display. This bias consists of a set of subjective aesthetic preferences that drives curators and collectors to focus their efforts on garments designed for or worn by people with ideal bodies and is reinforced by the well-intentioned effort to have fashion recognized as a higher decorative art form rather than a practical craft. The mechanisms by which collections develop and exhibitions are created often reinforce the exclusion of larger sizes, making change a complex endeavor, but the active renegotiation of these norms is already in progress. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
- Published
- 2024
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
4. The Mistress of Bond: Eileen Sullivan, and the Role of Cutting the Cloth of James Bond's Wardrobe and Beyond.
- Author
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Chapman, Llewella
- Subjects
BOND, James (Fictional character) ,MOTION picture studios ,FILM archives ,COSTUME designers ,MOTION picture industry - Abstract
This article spotlights the work of Eileen Sullivan and her career as a wardrobe mistress, later wardrobe supervisor, which included working on the James Bond films from Dr No (1962) until You Only Live Twice (1967). It will further consider how her career and role as a wardrobe mistress and supervisor changed within the British film industry from the mid-1940s until the mid-1980s, through personal papers shared by her family with me. Alongside this, the article draws upon papers available in the Film Finances Archive, the British Film Institute (BFI) and the British Library. This article will work to redress the absence in scholarship on the labour provided by costume workers below that of the costume designer, which as Melanie Williams (2016) has previously recognised, has been rendered invisible despite their costume work appearing on screen that contributes to the overall visual coherence of a film's design. It will also address the difficulties of researching the work of wardrobe personnel who have hitherto remained unacknowledged in broader scholarship, and analyse the role of the wardrobe mistress and supervisor including agency and labour, and the impact of caring responsibilities on this 'gendered' role. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
- Published
- 2024
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
5. New management approaches and sustainability: the case of the Museo del Traje in Madrid.
- Author
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Ayala, Íñigo
- Subjects
- *
SUSTAINABLE development , *MUSEUM studies , *SUSTAINABILITY , *MUSEUMS , *COSTUME - Abstract
Times have changed and museums are adapting to it. Their traditional functions have evolved, and the sustainability of these institutions is becoming increasingly important. Therefore, museums are facing a paradigm shift: from heritage-focused to society, especially their audiences. These institutions must now foster and develop social and economic approaches to adapt to this new situation. Cultural democracy and audience development are emerging as an effective approach and management tool in this adaptation process.This research focuses on the case of the Museo del Traje of Madrid [Costume Museum] in Madrid. Through the study of the Museum's website on its activity and in-depth interviews, this article gathers the information analysed to highlight the effort made by this museum in terms of sustainability through its face-to-face activities. The conclusions reveal that despite the efforts made by the museum in its adaptation process, a new management approach is needed to enhance this work. In this way, by improving its management, the Museo del Traje can become a replicable model of a museum that works to promote sustainability. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
- Published
- 2024
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
6. The cloth pass and soft glitch.
- Author
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Bower, Julie Rose
- Subjects
- *
SOUND design , *COSTUME , *SOUNDS , *LAUNDRY , *ONTOLOGY - Abstract
In this article, sound artist Julie Rose Bower examines the relationship between the Foley 'cloth pass' and the 'fabric sounds' autonomous sensory meridian response (ASMR) trigger. Starting with Serres's sensory appraisal that 'the world is a mass of laundry' the tactile qualities of cloth are proposed as a key component in accounting for the 'felt rather than heard' status of Foley sound. Writing from a practitioner perspective, Bower argues for textile manipulation as a form of embodied sound design and cloth sounds as a curiously generative media object. Through theorizing developments in the scope of attention within screen cultures, Bower develops a speculative ontology of soft glitch and conceptualizes a politics of folded listening. Alongside accounts of sound practice from industry Foley artists Vanessa Theme Ament (Die Hard, Edward Scissorhands), Joanna Fang (Sony PlayStation) and from her own ASMR work using costume and textiles (ASMR at the Museum for the Victoria and Albert Museum [V&A]), Bower argues for cloth sounds as transcendent cyberfeminist technique. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
- Published
- 2024
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
7. A View to a Kilt – The Late Bronze Age Aegean Costume in the Context of Social and Cultural Changes.
- Author
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Franković, Filip
- Subjects
- *
SOCIAL change , *BRONZE Age , *POLITICAL change , *SOCIAL reality , *SOCIAL context - Abstract
The connection between the Late Bronze Age (LBA) Aegean costumes and social, cultural and political changes is a rather unexplored topic. Probably the only exception are kilts, the connection of which to such changes on Crete during the 15th century BCE remains a commonly discussed topic in studies focusing on the LBA Aegean iconography and other data sets. However, many questions remain open and the topic is far from exhausted. In this paper I build on the work of various scholars who have studied LBA Aegean kilts in the context of social, political and cultural changes. I diachronically study the changes in the representations of kilts since the beginning of the LBA in the Aegean until the end of the Palatial period on the Greek Mainland (ca. 1700/1600–1200 BCE). Moreover, I examine the spatial distribution of specific kilt types in different periods. In cases of several different kilt types appearing in contemporary contexts in the same region, I explore whether similar costumes might have had different social connotations within the same communities. Moreover, I examine the influence of elite power structures and socio-political changes on the perception of kilts. However, I do not observe kilts as passive reflections of specific social, cultural and political contexts, but rather as material forms actively used in the creation of social realities. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
- Published
- 2024
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
8. Study on digital textile information and 3D virtual simulation of Chinese Qing Dynasty Lu-silk Apron.
- Author
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WU GAI-HONG, LIU XIA, ZHANG JIE, LIU SHU-QIANG, and WANG CAI-LIU
- Subjects
QING dynasty, China, 1644-1912 ,ETHNIC costume ,SOCIAL systems ,APRONS ,COSTUME - Abstract
Copyright of Industria Textila is the property of Institutul National de Cercetare-Dezvoltare pentru Textile si Pielarie and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)
- Published
- 2024
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
9. Jean-ius look?
- Subjects
STYLE icons ,SLEEPWALKING ,COSTUME ,BODYGUARDS ,WETSUITS - Abstract
This article from Woman's Day (Australia Edition) features a collection of celebrity fashion moments. Heidi Klum is seen wearing a unique jean and short combination, while Jared Leto is spotted wearing spooky slides in preparation for Halloween. Anne Hathaway playfully compares her wetsuit to sweet treats on Instagram, and Julia Morris is pictured sleep-eating after an event. Kate Ritchie, Fitzy, and Wippa dress up as characters from The Wizard of Oz for Book Week, and Andy Lee shows off his flexibility with a Matrix-inspired pose. Blake Lively accidentally wears her underwear inside out but quickly fixes the situation. Mariah Carey, Glen Powell, Billie Eilish, and Demi Moore's dogs are featured in a Vogue shoot, showcasing their unique personalities. Gordon Ramsay takes a break from his cooking career to enjoy a day at Disneyland with his family. Camila Cabello expresses her opinions about her job on a T-shirt, and Larry Emdur fulfills his promise to get a tattoo if he won the TV WEEK Gold Logie. Jenna Ortega channels Winona Ryder's style in Beetlejuice but fails to make an impact. [Extracted from the article]
- Published
- 2024
10. Il flauto e l’arco. Profilo di uno scrittore d’azione.
- Author
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Ripari, Edoardo
- Subjects
- *
COMMUNICATIVE competence , *POLITICAL communication , *POETS , *AUTHORS , *MILITARY personnel - Abstract
Gabriele d’Annunzio is one of the few Italian writers who has created an ‘-ism’, the “Dannunzianesimo”: a set of attitudes, a style and a way of living life. He was born in Pescara in 1863 and he immediately emerged for his unscrupulous communication skills, his talent and for fully embodying the Imaginative: poet and soldier, lover and hero. In addition to his relevance in the literary field, d’Annunzio is also very present in the political life, drafting the “Carta del Carnaro” for the city of Fiume. He spends the final part of his life at the Vittoriale, where he dies in 1938. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
- Published
- 2024
11. The Costume of Stepan Trofimovich
- Author
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Jasmina Vojvodić
- Subjects
fyodor dostoevsky ,demons ,stepan trofimovich ,costume ,role ,Slavic languages. Baltic languages. Albanian languages ,PG1-9665 - Abstract
The article examines the costume of Stepan Trofimovich Verkhovensky, the main character of Fyodor Dostoevsky’s novel Demons. Unlike clothes, the costume is associated with theatricality, acting, and performing or with playing a role. During the novel Stepan Trofimovich “plays different roles” and Varvara Petrovna determines his costume. Other heroes from the novel are also costumed (especially the young generation or young “demons”), who play their roles on the stage of Skvoreshniki. Stepan Trofimovich sometimes accepts, sometimes renounces his role; he protests and withstands the costume intended for him. Analysing his behaviour and costume, the article concludes that Stepan Trofimovich, in the end of his life journey, frees himself from the role that was intended for him. In the very end he “stepped off the stage” of Skvoreshniki and found himself “naked” on the eternal path when he took off his “civil” and fake costume.
- Published
- 2024
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
12. Establishment of an in vitro test and evaluation method for cosmetic foundation.
- Author
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Keying Xiao, Jiajing Cai, Huimin Zi, and Feifei Wang
- Subjects
COSMETICS ,COSTUME ,SECRECY ,COSMETOLOGY ,CRYSTALLOGRAPHY - Abstract
This study aims to establish the methods of evaluating cosmetic foundation in vitro from four dimensions: concealment, dullness, migration resistance as well as the ability of water resistance, sweat resistance and sebum resistance. The automatic film coating machine was used to evenly coat the samples in the first steps. The concealment and dullness sections were evaluated by MetaVue VS3200 spectrophotometer, which measured the hiding rate of the samples and the color characterization values of the foundation (ΔL, Δa, Δb). The coverage rate of sample E1 is 90.98 cr, which is the highest coverage. The ΔL value of sample D2 has the largest change of -2.73 as well as the highest dullness. Combined with the result of consumer testing for further verification, the overall score results are consistent with in vitro test results. Also, the ability of migration resistance was determined and compared by the image analysis of software Image-Pro Plus 6.0 through the testing of the amount of rubbed powder. Moreover, through the contact angle measuring device, the capabilities of water, sweat, and sebum resistance of the foundation samples could be compared based on the measurement of the contact angles of deionized water, artificial sweat, and artificial sebum on the sample surface. The contact angles of sample B1 and D2 with deionized water and artificial sweat are greater than 90° for removal of lipophilicity. The contact angles of all samples are less than 90° for removal of lipophilicity, among which sample E1 and sample F are relatively lower in removal of lipophilicity, and the contact angles are respectively 40.8° and 40.0°. The results of water resistance, sweat and sebum tested in this study are generally consistent with the test results based on existing literature. The results show that four methodologies of scientific measurement with instruments are feasible and valid, and they help develop the convenience and scientific rigor of in vitro evaluation. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
- Published
- 2024
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
13. Digital restoration and reconstruction of heritage clothing: a review.
- Author
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Ding, Qian-Kun and Liang, Hui-E
- Subjects
- *
CLOTHING & dress , *COSTUME , *CULTURAL property , *DANCE costume , *DIGITAL technology , *MURAL art - Abstract
Historical, folk, and opera costumes are part of cultural heritage, embodying the history, culture, art, and spirit of given nations. Due to aging and various damages, handed-down and unearthed historical clothing is often fragile and complex to preserve. Recently, digital methods have emerged as a meaningful way to restore and reconstruct all kinds of heritage clothing. The appearance of heritage costumes can be preserved permanently and presented to the public in a more accessible and interesting way via digitization. However, there is a lack of systematic review on this topic. To fill this gap, recent progress in digital restoration and 3D virtual reconstruction of heritage clothing is reviewed in this article. On the one hand, the methods and advantages of digitally restoring damaged archaeological costumes and fabrics, as well as damaged clothing images in archaeological murals, are summarized and emphasized. On the other hand, the digital reconstruction and virtual simulation of heritage costumes from different prototypes with known or unknown original appearances using different digital frameworks are presented and discussed. Furthermore, general steps and challenges in the digital reconstruction process, as well as future directions for digitalizing heritage clothing, are also discussed. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
- Published
- 2024
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
14. Corpos de resistência: a expressão dinâmica dos territórios nas paisagens multilocais amazônicas.
- Author
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de Andrade Brugnara, Gisela
- Abstract
In the Upper Amazon south of the Solimões River, between valleys, rivers and small towns, a contemporary practice can be observed in the use of ethnic clothing by some indigenous groups, in their life of urban and multi-local extravillage relationships, as an expressive and communicative attitude of multiple senses. This attitude currently forms a context of displacements in a forest-cityforest network, which carry dynamics of cultural resistance and promote the expansion of native territorialities in the city space. In this hostile space, the forest then materializes itself through bodies adorned by colors and designs composed in a syntax unintelligible to Portuguese, making visible what the processes of domination try to extinguish. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
- Published
- 2024
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
15. Celebrating Violence: Some Stage Practises in Kerala's Classical Theatre.
- Author
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Rajendran, Chettiarthodi
- Subjects
- *
VIOLENCE , *AVATARS (Virtual reality) , *TEMPLES , *COSTUME , *SEMIOTICS - Abstract
This paper is an attempt to probe into depiction of violence and death in the classical Sanskrit drama, especially in its avatar as Kūṭiyāṭṭam, a living performative tradition related to the temple theatre of Kerala. Stage depictions of terrible scenes of violence, and death as the culmination of it, will be examined here in the context of semiotics by including in its ramifications costume, colour scheme, tonal features and acting. The paper will first review the attitude of the Nāṭyaśāstra to presenting darker side of life on the stage and then turn to issues related to portrayal of violence and death in Kūṭiyāṭṭam. It will also take the opportunity to briefly touch upon other classical performative art forms, like Kathakaḷi, which are based on epic and Purāṇic themes, and are noted for their prominent portrayal of violence on stage. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
- Published
- 2024
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
16. Rembrandt's Standard Bearer: On Costume, Comedy, and Self-Portrayal, circa 1627-1637.
- Author
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Sluijter, Eric Jan
- Subjects
COURAGE ,COSTUME ,COMEDY ,COMIC books, strips, etc. ,SIGNS & symbols - Abstract
At the acquisition of Rembrandt van Rijn's The Standard Bearer (1636), the Rijksmuseum and the Dutch government presented the subject of the painting as a symbol of the heroic fight against the Spanish, decisive for the birth of the independent Netherlands, and as an image of the strength and courage of civic guard companies and the intrepidity of the standard bearer. This article argues that Rembrandt instead presented himself provocatively as a comedian-painter, satirizing the image of the conceited standard bearer, well-known from both reality and comic roles in contemporary theater. Simultaneously, Rembrandt displays an unrivaled virtuoso handling in competition with the admired Frans Hals. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
- Published
- 2024
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
17. Notas e cores: Nelson Sargento, mais alta patente do samba.
- Author
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Andreazzi Borges, Maria Eduarda
- Subjects
COMPOSERS ,SAMBA (Dance) ,PRIMITIVE painting ,ACTORS ,MUSICIANS - Abstract
Copyright of Actas de Diseño is the property of Facultad de Diseno y Comunicacion, Fundacion Universidad de Palermo and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)
- Published
- 2024
18. Резная кость древнего Кангюя и соседних стран.
- Author
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Яценко, С. А.
- Subjects
ANIMAL fighting ,SUBCULTURES ,UNGULATES ,ETHNOLOGY ,BELTS (Clothing) ,FOLKLORE - Abstract
Copyright of Stratum Plus Journal is the property of P.P. Stratum plus and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)
- Published
- 2024
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
19. Височные кольца с лопастью на памятниках верхней и средней Оки.
- Author
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Воронцов, А. М. and Столяров, Е. В.
- Subjects
WATERSHEDS ,JEWELRY ,COSTUME ,TEMPLES ,FINNS - Abstract
Copyright of Stratum Plus Journal is the property of P.P. Stratum plus and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)
- Published
- 2024
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
20. Коллекция вещей римского времени и эпохи Великого переселения народов из Восточного Крыма.
- Author
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Журавлёв, Д. В., Казанский, М. М., and Мастыкова, А. В.
- Subjects
HISTORICAL museums ,BRACELETS ,MIDDLE Ages ,COSTUME ,ROMANS - Abstract
Copyright of Stratum Plus Journal is the property of P.P. Stratum plus and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)
- Published
- 2024
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
21. Золотые шейные украшения VI—VII вв. из Юго-Западного Крыма.
- Author
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Хайрединова, Э. А.
- Subjects
GOLD jewelry ,FASHION ,COSTUME ,JEWELRY ,NECK - Abstract
Copyright of Stratum Plus Journal is the property of P.P. Stratum plus and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)
- Published
- 2024
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
22. О датировке «воинского» погребения с конем на могильнике римского времени Романово-Пугачевский пруд в Северной Самбии.
- Author
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Мастыкова, А. В.
- Subjects
RADIOCARBON dating ,HORSES ,COSTUME ,PONDS ,URNS - Abstract
Copyright of Stratum Plus Journal is the property of P.P. Stratum plus and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)
- Published
- 2024
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
23. From Costume Romps to Queer Milestones: Adaptation, Collaboration, Queerness and Modernism in the 'Long New Wave' of Richardson, Schlesinger and Reisz.
- Author
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Monk, Claire
- Subjects
COSTUME ,SOCIAL realism ,FILM genres ,LGBTQ+ films ,REALISM in motion pictures - Abstract
The post-New Wave films and trajectories of the key British New Wave directors remain under-analysed terrain, both in terms of their potential relevance for interrogating how we understand the British New Wave itself and for the terms in which we might conceptualise a 'Long' New Wave. This article departs from persisting auteurist approaches to consider the post-New Wave oeuvres and careers of these directors collectively, in terms which foreground the importance of collaborations and networks rather than individual authorship and seek to decentre, denaturalise and potentially dislodge their pre-eminent association with specifically Northern, British, social realism and its presumed legacies. I argue for the importance of a cluster of less-analysed areas of intersection and development which emerge across the eclectic film-making careers of Tony Richardson and John Schlesinger (and, to a lesser extent, Karel Reisz) in the immediate post-New Wave decade from the 1963 success of Richardson's Tom Jones to the early 1970s. My discussion pivots on two commonalities: during this time, all three directors contributed significantly and plurally to innovations and advances in genre and representation across two areas distinct from British Northern working-class realism: historical/costume film genres, and queer representation. An approach which centres the (broadly defined) queer elements in these directors' post-New Wave oeuvres – intersecting at times with their equally undervalued contribution to 'pre-heritage' period cinema – reveals the 'Long' New Wave as substantially a cinema of adaptation, collaboration and queerness which encompassed important, near-forgotten, international projects as well as modernist influences and, in Schlesinger's Sunday Bloody Sunday, a significant advance in realist queer representation. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
- Published
- 2024
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
24. FandangObon: Amplification, counter‐publics, and fugitive spaces of belonging in Los Angeles.
- Author
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Lipsitz, George
- Subjects
- *
FUGITIVES from justice , *JAPANESE Americans , *DANCE , *DANCE improvisation , *COSTUME , *ANTI-racism - Abstract
The festive celebration known as FandangObon is made possible by workshops and satellite performances that artivistas (art activists) stage throughout the year in a variety of community venues. The event transforms the annual Japanese American Buddhist Obon ceremony honoring ancestors into an antiracist polycultural performance. Through improvisation and invention, colorfully adorned participants blend the dances, songs, and costumes of the Japanese bon odori circle with Mexican son jarocho fandango practices and West African ballet and egungun drum and dance circles. Each of the groups represented in FandangObon brings to the mix its own form of circle dancing, collective singing, and instrument playing, yet bon odori, fandango, and egungun do not fuse together seamlessly in these gatherings. Instead they coalesce as a conversation among equals in which each tradition remains faithful to itself in the process of making changes through engagement with others The concepts of amplification, counterpublics, and fugitive spaces of belonging serve in this article as central interpretive frames of a cultural critique of the historical and cultural conditions for the celebration's emergence, articulation, and implementation (Marcus and Fischer 1986). [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
- Published
- 2024
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
25. Costumes of the migrating body: A study of indentured labors' clothes and jewelry.
- Author
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Jha, Nidhi and Singh, Smriti
- Subjects
- *
CLOTHING & dress , *JEWELRY , *COSTUME , *PERSONAL belongings , *BRITISH occupation of India, 1765-1947 - Abstract
The years 1838–1924 in colonial India saw the first organized exodus of around 1.5 million. These emigrants were employed as indentured laborers in the various plantations owned by the Empire. Along with the people, what migrated were objects like clothes and jewelry. While some of these items were provided by the plantation regimes, others were brought by the emigrants. Though there have been studies about the lives on the plantations, the marine lives of the travelers and their personal belongings have been neglected. Objects such as clothes and jewelry not only have cultural significance but also form part of the emigrants' memory. This article critically analyses the usage of cultural artifacts as "floating signifiers" and how these artifacts are altered with a change of setting. Building on the ideas of Bhabha, Skinner, and others, this article aims to understand the role of material possessions in the lives of the plantation workers. The narratives discussed allow readers to witness changes in the role of materials like clothes and jewelry accompanying the emigrants on their voyage to the plantations. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
- Published
- 2024
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
26. 'NO PLACE FOR WOMEN'?: REFRAMING HOW GREEN WAS MY VALLEY AS A CLASSIC HOLLYWOOD WOMAN'S PICTURE.
- Author
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PEREGRINE, RHYS
- Subjects
GENDER role ,CATHARSIS ,COSTUME ,CRITICISM ,FEMALES ,FILM criticism - Abstract
While How Green Was My Valley has been the subject of much criticism, there has been little effort to explain why it was so popular with contemporary Welsh cinemagoers - including with the female film fans who probably represented the majority of its audience. Although the picture has been dismissed as an essentially masculine one, it had much to offer a female audience, whether it was romance, emotional catharsis, attractive costumes, or its timely discussions of gender roles. Cinemagoing was a vital activity for many women in Wales and it is worth exploring how this defining Welsh film might have become an important and meaningful part of their wartime experience. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
- Published
- 2024
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
27. مدينة دمشق في روايات خيري الذهبي.
- Author
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ALAHMAD, Mohamad
- Subjects
PUBLIC spaces ,MENTAL imagery ,TWENTY-first century ,COSTUME ,NEIGHBORHOODS ,PROVERBS - Abstract
Copyright of Çukurova Üniversitesi İlahiyat Fakültesi Dergisi (CUIFD) is the property of Cukurova Universitesi Ilahiyat Fakültesi Dergisi (CUIFD) and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)
- Published
- 2024
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
28. Australian Fashion and Dress as Popular Culture.
- Author
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Bellanta, Melissa
- Subjects
YOUTH culture ,POPULAR culture ,HOMOPHOBIA ,PARODY ,YOUNG adults ,COSTUME ,FASHION - Abstract
This article explores the role of fashion and dress in Australian history as popular culture. It challenges the notion that fashion has been primarily feminine and elite, highlighting its presence in popular culture since the late nineteenth century. The author defines popular culture as the practices and meanings people create from commercialized cultural resources. Examples of dress as popular culture include studio photography, spectator sports, and costumed events. The article also examines the role of young people in shaping fashion as popular culture, showcasing examples from the late 1980s to late 1990s. The author suggests incorporating fashion into history teaching on popular culture by considering it as a component of various cultural developments. The text delves into the role of fancy dress in popular culture and its various purposes, such as promoting social harmony, challenging norms, exploring identity, and championing causes. It highlights the use of fancy dress in events like the Sydney Mardi Gras and fancy dress balls as fundraisers. The text also explores the relationship between fashion and youth culture, noting that young people have long used fashion to distinguish themselves and create a sense of belonging. It emphasizes the significance of dress in both challenging and reinforcing gender conventions and shaping experiences of gender. [Extracted from the article]
- Published
- 2024
29. Purim Costumes and the Commodification of Gender.
- Author
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Barak-Brandes, Sigal
- Subjects
GENDER identity ,PURIM ,CONTENT analysis ,MARKETING ,COSTUME - Abstract
In the study on which this article is based, I examined, from a gendered perspective, the Purim costumes market in Israel, to see what I might learn from a comparison between costumes aimed at boys and those aimed at girls. I conducted a visual and textual analysis of 60 Purim costumes for girls and boys, as presented on retail websites and found that Purim costumes offered on these popular Israeli websites present such clearly demarcated gender differentiations that I can claim that they play a part in the commodification of gender. The alleged choice of costumes is in fact strategically governed by marketing practices that mobilize the media culture targeted at children. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
- Published
- 2024
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
30. Design path and practice of volunteer' costumes in the digital age.
- Author
-
ZHU Jianlong and CUI Rongrong
- Subjects
DIGITAL technology ,DESIGN services ,VOLUNTEERS ,VOLUNTEER service ,COSTUME - Abstract
In order to explore the new trend, new demand and design principle and essence of volunteers' costumes under the digital trend, firstly, the cultural characteristics and demand utility of the digital age are sorted out. Secondly, on the basis of previous studies, the typology method is used to classify and analyze the nature, type and relationship of volunteer activities, volunteers and volunteer' costumes. The study found that the form of volunteers' costumes is developed, changed and focused on the function around the functional requirements, and then put forward three design paths with activities, culture and integration as the core and the design point of 'function as the core, form performance function', which provides new ideas and optimization directions for the academic research and practical application of volunteers' costumes in the digital age. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
- Published
- 2024
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
31. Ideology in Costume: A Growing Threat to Intelligence Studies.
- Author
-
Gentry, John A.
- Subjects
COSTUME ,VACCINATION ,SCHOLARS ,INFECTION ,IDEOLOGY - Abstract
Intelligence studies (IS) is a new and rapidly evolving academic discipline. Scholars periodically assess its status, noting considerable progress, but they have barely begun to assess the origins and implications of a significant recent development in IS: infiltration of the discipline by people determined to alter intelligence studies for ideological reasons. This commentary focuses on the destructive impact of neo-Marxian "critical intelligence studies" on IS generally. It addresses the origins and implications of this infection and suggests ways to inoculate IS against further damage. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
- Published
- 2024
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
32. Pannonian women's headwear-related accessories.
- Author
-
Sáró, Csilla
- Subjects
FASHION accessories ,BROOCHES ,INDIGENOUS women ,CLOTHING & dress ,HEADGEAR ,COSTUME - Abstract
The main goal of this paper is to study a specific element of women's depicted costumes. Pictures on stone monuments present local, so-called native women wearing complex attire of cloth, headwear, brooches, jewels, and other dress accessories. Thirteen stone monuments from Hungary depict local women with headwear-related accessories. The main questions are: what kind of accessories are they, and how can we evaluate their presence on depicted attires? I collected analogous depictions from other Provinces and studied archaeological material. Finally, I concluded that these headwear-related accessories connect to new cultural effects and the complex phenomenon of acculturation. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
- Published
- 2024
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
33. Transgendering-assemblages: Sin Wai Kin's trans techniques and acts of boybanding.
- Author
-
Hann, Rachel
- Abstract
This article investigates the artist Sin Wai Kin's (單慧乾) speculative approach to drag through the prism of 'transgendering-assemblages'. Influenced by the assemblage theory of Manuel DeLanda and Jasbir Puar, I propose that transgendering-assemblages actualize the properties of transness (Marquis Bey) through particular trans techniques (Grace E. Lavery). I introduce Sin's more-than-human trans techniques, from make-up to costume, and approach to nonbinary storytelling to investigate identity assemblages more broadly. With explicit attention to their engagement with Chinese opera and Taoism, the speculative boyband in Sin's Turner Prize nominated work It's Always You (2021) prompts my proposal for 'boybanding' as a technique for investigating identity assemblages. The final section is focused on the genderings of East Asian masculinities in Sin's work to argue how all gender-assemblages are also 'racializing assemblages' (Alexander G. Weheliye). I conclude with a provocation on what assemblage as a nonbinary concept (defined by what it does rather than what it is) can offer studies of gender. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
- Published
- 2024
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
34. Scythian Jewelry Meshes and the Problem of Their Interpretation.
- Author
-
Lifantii, Oksana
- Subjects
MUSEUM exhibits ,MOSAICS (Art) ,JEWELRY ,CONTEXTUAL analysis ,DECORATION & ornament ,COSTUME - Abstract
This article explores the phenomenon of a specific type of personal adornment worn by members of the Scythian elite in the North Black Sea region in the second half of the 5th century and throughout the 4th century BCE. The discussion juxtaposes the records from 19th-century and early 20th-century excavations with contextual analyses of very recent discoveries from Ukraine, which shed significant new light on the appearance, production, and meaning of Scythian jewelry. The reconstruction of the shape of the jewelry type in question is greatly complicated by two factors: the lack of relevant depictions in the contemporary corpus of Scythian and Greco-Scythian figure scenes and misleading scholarly references to supposed analogies in a Roman-era mosaic, which became the chief reason for the misinterpretations of the ornament's appearance. Composed of numerous gold or gilded silver tubes; beads; pendants; and, sometimes, "buttons," this jewelry type is reconstructed in two gender-specific variants in this article: one mesh-like and the other with a cross-chest form. For over a hundred years, scholars have considered only the mesh variant to be the correct reconstruction. As a result, many costume reconstructions of this jewelry form in specialist research and museum displays alike are still proposed without a sufficient evidentiary base. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
- Published
- 2024
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
35. Crip slutaesthetics: Erotic object choreographies and temporal fractures in burlesque.
- Author
-
Havard, Julia
- Abstract
Direct, communicative and largely accessible, the choreographic tools of nightlife performance often elicit dramatic reactions from spectators, whether sexy, funny, surprising, glamorous or all of the above. This article follows pleasure, joy, erotics and pain across crip slutaesthetics into the choreographies of crip nightlife, based on interviews with four burlesque artists based in the United States with diverse experiences of sickness, neurodivergence, trauma and disability. I use movement analysis alongside attention to other artistic practices foundational to burlesque such as prop and costume creation to unravel the ways that performers Sweet Lorraine, Poison Ivory, Chaos X Machina and Jaqueline Boxx integrate their divergent bodymind experiences into compelling aesthetics and justice-oriented frames. I argue that crip slutaesthetics, that is the aesthetic qualities of crip sexual performance, can offer tools towards undoing ableism as it is entangled with racism, homophobia and transphobia that are often silenced by more formal concert dance worlds in the effort to deny embodied difference as well as pleasure from the proscenium stage. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
- Published
- 2024
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
36. From Page to Stage: Irish Dance Costumes and Illustrations from the Book of Kells
- Author
-
Mollenhauer, Jeanette, Dankworth, Linda E., editor, Rottenberg, Henia, editor, and Williams, Deborah, editor
- Published
- 2024
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
37. DEFYING ALL ODDZ.
- Author
-
CALVERT, HENRY
- Subjects
COSTUME ,CLOTHING & dress - Published
- 2024
38. Pierrot and his world: Art, theatricality, and the marketplace in France, 1697-1945
- Author
-
Takanashi Knowles, Marika, author and Takanashi Knowles, Marika
- Published
- 2024
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
39. Quirky PUBS.
- Subjects
BARS (Drinking establishments) ,COSTUME ,ANTIQUE dealers ,SPORTS bars ,ROMAN coins - Abstract
This article from Practical Caravan highlights some of the UK's most unique and interesting pubs. From Belfast's Bittles Bar, known for its narrow building and extensive collection of paintings, to Dorset's The Square & Compass, which offers homemade pasties and pies and a mini museum of fossils and ancient artifacts, these pubs offer something beyond the usual pub experience. Other notable pubs mentioned include The Tattershall Castle in London, Ye Olde Trip to Jerusalem in Nottingham, and The Old Forge in the Scottish Highlands. Each pub has its own distinct charm and cultural significance. [Extracted from the article]
- Published
- 2024
40. JULIETTE JOURDAIN: THE POWER OF IMAGINATION.
- Subjects
FICTIONAL characters ,SELF-portraits ,DRESSMAKING ,COSTUME ,VIOLIN - Abstract
Juliette Jourdain is a young French photographer based in Paris who specializes in portrait art. Her work is characterized by quirky and sophisticated poses in meticulously arranged studio sets. Jourdain draws inspiration from various sources, including fashion photography, cinema, painting, and her own background in drawing. She has received several awards for her outstanding work and has been featured on the cover of Photo magazine in France. Jourdain's self-portrait project, in which she aims to transform herself into imaginary and creative characters, has become one of her favorites. She collaborates with a trusted team of makeup artists, stylists, and assistants to bring her vision to life. [Extracted from the article]
- Published
- 2024
41. Beat the HEAT.
- Subjects
CROCHETING ,VESTS ,COSTUME - Abstract
The document titled "Beat the HEAT" provides fashion tips for staying cool during hot summer days. It suggests wearing crisp white clothing, flowing cotton dresses, oversized linen shirts, and crochet pieces. The document also showcases stylish suits with fine pinstripes and a linen mix. The clothing items mentioned are available in various sizes and can be mixed and matched to create different outfits. The document includes prices and where to purchase the items. [Extracted from the article]
- Published
- 2024
42. Costume Change.
- Author
-
Kranking, Kathy
- Subjects
COSTUME - Published
- 2024
43. Western Wins.
- Author
-
Clawson, Michael
- Subjects
ART auctions ,ART ,COSTUME ,WESTERN United States history - Abstract
Brian Lebel's 34th Annual Santa Fe Old West Show & Auction is set to take place in Santa Fe, New Mexico, from June 21 to 23. The event will feature a wide range of Western art, including paintings, bronzes, and cowboy gear. The auction is expected to attract top collectors, with notable pieces such as James Walker's Judges of the Plains, estimated at $400,000 to $500,000, generating significant interest. The event aims to expand the definition of art and showcase the diversity of Western material. [Extracted from the article]
- Published
- 2024
44. A PILGRIMAGE TO THE VATICAN: THE DIARY OF JULIA HEAPHY (13 APRIL TO 26 NOVEMBER 1925).
- Subjects
ANIMAL feeding behavior ,COSTUME ,AUSTRALIANS ,SPORTS for children ,BRITISH kings & rulers ,KISSING ,CATHEDRALS ,PRAYERS - Abstract
The document is a transcription of Julia Heaphy's diary, detailing her participation in the first official national Pilgrimage to Rome in 1925. The diary provides a firsthand account of her journey from Melbourne to various destinations, including Perth, Colombo, Suez, Cairo, Marseilles, Lourdes, Rome, Florence, Venice, Paris, and London. Heaphy describes her experiences, observations, and personal reflections throughout the pilgrimage. The diary also includes her visits to churches, landmarks, and cultural sites in Italy, France, and Ireland. Additionally, Heaphy's diary entry documents her travels in Paris, London, and Dublin, as well as her trip to Ireland, where she visits Killarney, Cork, and Dungarvan. The diary concludes with her journey on the HMS Narkunda from Great Britain to Australia, with stops in Aden and Colombo. [Extracted from the article]
- Published
- 2024
45. Außerschulische Lernorte. Theaterwelten im Deutschunterricht. Vermittlungsideen unter Berücksichtigung der Digitalen Theatersammlung der Herzogin Anna Amalia Bibliothek Weimar.
- Author
-
Streim, Claudia
- Subjects
STAGE adaptations ,GROUP identity ,HISTORICAL source material ,COSTUME ,COSTUME design ,ARCHIVES - Abstract
Copyright of Mitteilungen des Deutschen Germanistenverbandes is the property of Vandenhoeck & Ruprecht GmbH & Co. KG and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)
- Published
- 2024
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
46. Fashion's Borders: An Introduction.
- Author
-
Garrity, Jane and Marshik, Celia
- Subjects
- *
FASHION design , *CULTURE , *COSTUME , *STYLE icons - Abstract
The introduction traces the long history of fashion's movement across cultural, national, and political borders. After brief case studies of early twentieth-century French and Spanish styles imagining fashion as an engine of transnational amity, the introduction highlights how fashion navigates some of the most troubled borders of recent years, including the conflict between Russia and Ukraine and racial violence. Fashion forces viewers and consumers to choose sides, whether through national identification or through recognition of the long history of black and brown bodies producing fashionable objects. To advance the global history of fashion, the introduction briefly discusses the work of designers Rawan Maki (Bahrain), Laurence Leenaert (Belgium), and Kim Jones (Great Britain), examining how each upends gender, race, class, or fashion binaries, and analyzes how LVMH and Uniqlo, brands at opposite ends of the contemporary style spectrum, underline the very different ways in which fashion traverses the globe in the twenty-first century. The introduction concludes with the hope that this issue will raise questions about fashion's articulation of the relation among the local, the national, and the global, as well as about the human experience of interacting with the fashion industry in one national context while living in a globalized world. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
- Published
- 2022
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
47. Farewell to the Young: Early Iron Age Mortuary Practices in the Middle Danube Region.
- Author
-
Ložnjak Dizdar, Daria, Dizdar, Marko, and Kapuran, Aleksandar
- Abstract
The study of burials and mortuary practices in the past provides essential information on the role and treatment of children in past communities. This study aims to better understand the status of children by reviewing the material culture provided by child burial contexts. Early Iron Age (800–300 BC) mortuary practices in the southern Middle Danube (present–day eastern Croatia and northwestern Serbia) are characterized mostly by the cremation of the dead. The Iron Age is an important time for funerary transitions. The standard practice of cremating the dead was replaced by the practice of inhumation during the 6th century BC. The manner of treatment of the dead body affected the preservation of objects and data in the graves. This paper studies 74 burials with child remains, costumes, jewellery, tool items, and pottery grave goods. In Early Iron Age mortuary practices, children were treated just like the adult members of the community. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
- Published
- 2024
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
48. Dressed for History: Why Costume Collections Matter: Women’s Fashion 1750–2000.
- Author
-
HALLIDAY, REBECCA
- Subjects
- *
FASHION , *PUNK culture , *COSTUME , *SHORT films , *BODY image in women , *CATALOGS - Abstract
The Museum of Vancouver in Canada recently held an exhibition titled "Dressed for History: Why Costume Collections Matter: Women’s Fashion 1750–2000." The exhibition showcased 250 years of women's fashion through pieces loaned from four fashion and costume collectors in British Columbia. The exhibition aimed to provide insights into period aesthetics, garment construction, and societal expectations of women's comportment. It featured a variety of styles and designers, including Dior, Mary Quant, Vivienne Westwood, and Issey Miyake, representing different cultural identities and societal perceptions of women's bodies throughout history. The exhibition aimed to challenge Eurocentric perspectives, although it still had limitations in terms of representation. The article suggests that the exhibition could have been more immersive and interactive to engage visitors further. Overall, the exhibition highlighted the importance of costume collections and raised questions about collecting and preservation practices. [Extracted from the article]
- Published
- 2024
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
49. Style and Society: Dressing the Georgians.
- Author
-
LEVICK, EMILY
- Subjects
- *
FASHION , *QUEENS , *COSTUME , *SHAWLS , *EMBROIDERY ,BRITISH kings & rulers - Abstract
The "Style and Society: Dressing the Georgians" exhibition at Buckingham Palace showcases fashionable dress in Britain from 1714 to 1830. It explores the development and changes in Georgian fashion through portraiture and costume. The exhibition highlights the variety of textiles and styles available to the wealthy during this period, and includes informative diagrams and texts about Georgian fashion. The exhibition also features Georgian court dress, army and navy uniforms, and imported textiles. While the exhibition is praised for its informative interpretation, the texts can be lengthy. [Extracted from the article]
- Published
- 2024
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
50. THE ARTISTIC AND AESTHETICS ANALYSIS OF THE COSTUME OF EGUNGUN ELEWE IN IGBOMINA LAND.
- Author
-
Adeoti, Adeola Abiodun and Odetayo, Daniel Odekunle
- Subjects
COSTUME ,DECORATIVE arts ,AESTHETICS ,CLOTHING & dress ,HALLOWEEN costumes - Abstract
Egungun is believed to be a visible appearance of the dead ancestors as spirits who occasionally revisit the living for festivals. During this visit, the egungun is clothed with beautiful attire that will become the embodiment of attraction. Despite several studies on egungun in Yoruba land, there is no comprehensive study on this type of egungun, thus creating a dearth of literature in this area of art history and thereby leaving in-depth research on the costumes of egungun elewe of Igbomona land. This study is targeted on the artistic and aesthetics analysis of egungun elewe of Igbomina land aiming to promote the Yoruba decorative art to document the findings in the annals of history. The study is descriptive as each of the items of the egungun elewe's costume is analyzed using the qualitative method. Findings reveal that the role, functions, and cultural significance of the egungun elewe of Igbomina land have aesthetic qualities different from other forms of egungun known in other parts of Africa. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
- Published
- 2024
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
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