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The process of aging starts at birth and continues till death which affects human physiology and its appearance. According to Unani literature, the innate heat and innate moisture reduce gradually with increasing age. This decreasing innate heat and moisture weakens the Tabiyat and slows down bodily function, resulting in the low production of humor and a high production of extraneous moisture, which in turn alters temperament i.e., melancholic temperament which is susceptible to various ailments like skin-related problems. Unani literature is very rich in cosmeceuticals formulations that take care of the appearance and deal with cosmetic diseases in humans. The evolution of cosmetics and cosmeceuticals in Unani medicine was explored by the work of Unani Physicians of the pre and post-Hippocratic era. Zakariya Razi (854-925) established a chapter on cosmetology and principles for beautification under the name "Zeenat wa araish" in his famous book "Kitab al-Mansuri". Al-Zohrawi (936-1013 AD) was a cosmetologist and an Arab physician who wrote a voluminous medical encyclopedia "Kitab al-Tasrif" in 30 volumes, mentioning cosmetics. He distinguished cosmetics as a branch of medication and the drugs used to improve beauty as Advia Muzayyenah /Adwiyat al-Zinat. In this paper, the concept of skin aging, skin anti-aging strategies, skin care procedures, and prescriptions for beautification of the face as well as wrinkle reduction in the Unani system of medicine has been discussed in detail.

Background: Photoaging is a process of the architecture of normal skin damaged by ultraviolet radiation. Topical cosmeceuticals have been used to treat this condition. The authors aimed to understand the mechanism and level of evidence of different commonly used cosmeceuticals used to treat photodamaged skin., Objective: A range of commonly used topical cosmeceuticals (botanicals, peptides, and hydroquinone) has been used in cosmetic medicine for many years to treat photodamaged skin. This review article compares their efficacy and level of evidence., Material and Methods: This study was a systematic review to evaluate the efficacy of different topical cosmeceuticals. Keywords including "Photoaging," "Azelaic acid," "Soy," "Green Tea," "Chamomile," "Ginkgo," "Tea Tree Oil," "Resveratrol," "Cucumber," "Ginseng," "Centella asiatica," "Licorice Root," "Aloe Vera," "Peptides," "Argireline," "Hydroquinone," were typed on OVID, PUBMED, MEDLINE for relevant studies published on photoaging treatment., Results: Most of the evidence behind cosmeceuticals is of high-quality ranging from Level I to Level II. In particular, the evidence base behind peptides is the strongest with most studies achieving Level Ib status in the evidence hierarchy., Conclusion: Topical cosmeceuticals like botanicals, peptides and hydroquinone can effectively treat photodamaged skin., (© 2024 The Authors. Skin Research and Technology published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.)

The process of skin ageing is a natural biological phenomenon characterised by the emergence of wrinkles, age spots, sagging skin, and dryness over time. The increasing significance of skin in physical attractiveness has heightened skincare concerns. Anti-ageing cosmetics play a pivotal role in nurturing the skin, enhancing its quality, and promoting overall health. Today, cosmetics have evolved beyond mere aesthetics and are now integral to individual wellness. The contemporary quest for perpetual youth has intensified, prompting a deeper exploration into the skin ageing process. This comprehensive exploration delves into various elements involved in skin ageing, encompassing cells such as stem and endothelial cells, blood vessels, soft tissues, and signalling pathways. The molecular basis of skin ageing, including biochemical factors like reactive oxygen species, damaged DNA, free radicals, ions, and proteins (mRNA), is scrutinised alongside relevant animal models. The article critically analyzes the outcomes of utilising herbal components, emphasising their advantageous anti-ageing properties. The factors contributing to skin ageing, mechanistic perspectives, management approaches involving herbal cosmeceutical, and associated complications (especially cardiovascular diseases, Parkinson's, Alzheimer's, etc.) are succinctly addressed. In addition, the manuscript further summarises the recent patented innovations and toxicity of the herbal cosmeceuticals for anti-ageing and ageing associated disorders. Despite progress, further research is imperative to unlock the full potential of herbal components as anti-ageing agents.

Integrated skincare combines clinically proven skincare products with professional medical aesthetics to provide a comprehensive solution for beauty pursuers. Studies have demonstrated that a combination of medical aesthetic procedures and maintenance therapies is more effective than either treatment alone. This review outlines the current applications of integrated skincare, including different regimens of energy-based aesthetic devices and active ingredients in cosmeceuticals or chemical peels. Additionally, the benefits and limitations of integrated skincare are discussed. Lastly, this review highlights the potential for improved satisfaction and long-term maintenance of the desired outcomes through appropriate integrated skincare procedures., (© 2023 European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology.)

Skin aging is the result of physiological changes determined by genetically driven processes and intrinsic factors, and exacerbated by a combination of multiple environmental factors, the main one being sun exposure. The effects of photoaging are particularly apparent on the face, where the appearance of aging signs can have a significant impact on the emotions conveyed and well-being. Photoprotection and facial skin care for managing photoaging signs are thus of particular importance for both physical and mental health. Countries, like Australia and Brazil, where the level of sun exposure is high and the populations have predominantly outdoor lifestyles, are particularly aware of the harms of photoaging and have implemented several measures to help reduce the risk of skin cancer in their populations. However, sun-seeking behaviours are difficult to change, and it takes time before interventions provide perceptible results. Australia still has some of the highest skin cancer incidence and mortality rates in the world. Solutions that target individuals can also be used for minimizing the clinical signs of facial aging and for improving skin quality, with the ultimate aim being not only to improve the appearance of the skin but also to mitigate the occurrence of pre-malignant and malignant lesions. This review summarizes the features of facial skin photoaging in photo-exposed populations, based on evidence gained from studies of Australian individuals, and discusses the various available solutions for skin photoaging, in particular those that are most popular in Brazil, which is a country with many years of experience in managing photoaged skin., (© 2024 European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology.)

Cosmeceuticals, the bridge between pharmaceuticals and cosmetics, contain biologically active ingredients that may improve the skin's overall appearance. As the market, accessibility, and popularity of cosmeceuticals increase, it is essential to understand the safety and efficacy of such products. This systematic review aims to examine published clinical studies involving the use of cosmeceuticals for antiaging to provide evidence-based recommendations based on available efficacy and safety data. PubMed, Embase, and Cochrane were systematically searched on January 1, 2023 using PRISMA guidelines. Strength of evidence was graded using the Oxford Centre for Evidence-Based Medicine guidelines. Clinical recommendations were made based on the quality of the existing literature. A total of 153 articles regarding the use of cosmeceuticals for treatment of antiaging were identified. After screening of titles, abstracts, and full text, 32 studies involving 1236 patients met inclusion criteria, including 20 randomized controlled trials (RCTs) and 12 non-randomized open-label clinical trials for Vitamin C, Retinol, Bakuchiol, Tetrahydrojasmonic acid, Growth Factors, Methyl Estradiolpropanoate, Timosaponin A-III (TA-III), Protocatechuic acid, Grammatophyllum speciosum, and Jasmine rice panicle extract. Retinol and vitamin C for antiaging received a Grade A for recommendation. Methyl estradiolpropanoate, bakuchiol, tetrahydrojasmonic acid, and growth factors received a recommendation grade of C. The remaining ingredients were assigned an inconclusive grade of recommendation due to lack of evidence. Cosmeceuticals included in the review had favorable safety profiles with few significant adverse events. The review analyzes numerous different ingredients to provide an evidence-based approach to decision-making for consumers and physicians on the use of cosmeceuticals for antiaging. Limitations to our review include a limited number of randomized controlled trials and a need for long-term data on each cosmeceutical's efficacy and safety. Future research is needed to establish the long-term effectiveness and safety of cosmeceuticals., (© 2024. The Author(s), under exclusive licence to Springer-Verlag GmbH Germany, part of Springer Nature.)

Cosmeceuticals are topically applied cosmetic products containing a biologically active ingredient with a pharmaceutical effect that improves, nourishes, and treats the skin appearance. The trend of cosmeceuticals began during the mid-20th century due to its potent ingredients with therapeutic effects for various skin ailments. Even though there is a great advancement in cosmetics, which shows the risk of cosmetic linked melanoma, endocrine disorders, and birth defects which was one in 1500 people during 1935 have increased to one in 75 people in 2000. Hence, as a part of reducing the harmful effect, natural ingredients were added to the formulation to give the pharmaceutical effect. Thus, natural/herbal cosmeceuticals were introduced. Due to the awareness of the side effects such as photo-toxicity, mutagenicity, irritation by these synthetic products, people started preferring herbal/natural cosmetic products. Moreover, natural cosmeceuticals were proven to be effective against various dermatological conditions as well as have fewer side effects marked the natural/herbal cosmeceuticals in the market. Unlike a drug, cosmeceutical products undergo safety, toxicity, and efficacy tests, but these are not classified under Food and Drug Administration. This review will give an insight into different natural ingredients used in natural/herbal cosmeceutical formulation and their function challenges faced during formulation, advantages of natural cosmeceuticals over regular cosmeceuticals, and regulatory aspects in India., (Copyright © 2024 Copyright: © 2024 Indian Journal of Pharmacology.)

Cosmetics have a long history of use for regenerative and therapeutic purposes that are appealing to both genders. The untapped potential of nanotechnology in cosmeceuticals promises enhanced efficacy and addresses the issues associated with conventional cosmetics. In the field of cosmetics, the incorporation of nanomedicine using various nanocarriers such as vesicle and solid lipid nanoparticles significantly enhances product effectiveness and promotes satisfaction, especially in tackling prevalent skin diseases. Moreover, vesicle-fortified serum is known for high skin absorption with the capacity to incorporate and deliver various therapeutics. Additionally, nano-embedded serum-based cosmeceuticals hold promise for treating various skin disorders, including acne and psoriasis, heralding potential therapeutic advancements. This review explores diverse nanotechnology-based approaches for delivering cosmetics with maximum benefits.

Antimicrobial peptides (AMPs), or host defence peptides, are short proteins in various life forms. Here we discuss AMPs, which may become a promising substitute or adjuvant in pharmaceutical, biomedical, and cosmeceutical uses. Their pharmacological potential has been investigated intensively, especially as antibacterial and antifungal drugs and as promising antiviral and anticancer agents. AMPs exhibit many properties, and some of these have attracted the attention of the cosmetic industry. AMPs are being developed as novel antibiotics to combat multidrug-resistant pathogens and as potential treatments for various diseases, including cancer, inflammatory disorders, and viral infections. In biomedicine, AMPs are being developed as wound-healing agents because they promote cell growth and tissue repair. The immunomodulatory effects of AMPs could be helpful in the treatment of autoimmune diseases. In the cosmeceutical industry, AMPs are being investigated as potential ingredients in skincare products due to their antioxidant properties (anti-ageing effects) and antibacterial activity, which allows the killing of bacteria that contribute to acne and other skin conditions. The promising benefits of AMPs make them a thrilling area of research, and studies are underway to overcome obstacles and fully harness their therapeutic potential. This review presents the structure, mechanisms of action, possible applications, production methods, and market for AMPs.

Nowadays, numerous skincare routines are used to rejuvenate aging skin. Retinoids are one of the most popular ingredients used in antiaging treatments. Among the representatives of retinoids, tretinoin is considered the most effective agent with proven antiaging effects on the skin and can be found in formulations approved as medicines for topical treatment of acne, facial wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation. Other retinoids present in topical medicines are used for various indications, but only tazarotene is also approved as adjunctive agent for treatment of facial fine wrinkling and pigmentation. The most commonly used retinoids such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate are contained in cosmeceuticals regulated as cosmetics. Since clinical efficacy studies are not required for marketing cosmetic formulations, there are concerns about the efficacy of these retinoids. From a formulation perspective, retinoids pose a challenge to researchers as a result of their proven instability, low penetration, and potential for skin irritation. Therefore, novel delivery systems based on nanotechnology are being developed to overcome the limitations of conventional formulations and improve user compliance. In this review, the clinical evidence for retinoids in conventional and nanoformulations for topical antiaging treatments was evaluated. In addition, an overview of the comparison clinical trials between tretinoin and other retinoids is presented. In general, there is a lack of evidence from properly designed clinical trials to support the claimed efficacy of the most commonly used retinoids as antiaging agents in cosmeceuticals. Of the other retinoids contained in medicines, tazarotene and adapalene have clinically evaluated antiaging effects compared to tretinoin and may be considered as potential alternatives for antiaging treatments. The promising potential of retinoid nanoformulations requires a more comprehensive evaluation with additional studies to support the preliminary findings., (© 2022. The Author(s).)

Cosmetic-containing herbals are a cosmetic that has or is claimed to have medicinal properties, with bioactive ingredients purported to have medical benefits. There are no legal requirements to prove that these products live up to their claims. The name is a combination of "cosmetics" and "pharmaceuticals". "Nutricosmetics" are related dietary supplements or food or beverage products with additives that are marketed as having medical benefits that affect appearance. Cosmetic-containing herbals are topical cosmetic-pharmaceutical hybrids intended to enhance the health and beauty of the skin. Cosmetic-containing herbals improve appearance by delivering essential nutrients to the skin. Several herbal products, such as cosmetic-containing herbals, are available. The present review highlights the use of natural products in cosmetic-containing herbals, as natural products have many curative effects as well as healing effects on skin and hair growth with minimal to no side effects. A brief description is given on such plants, their used parts, active ingredients, and the therapeutic properties associated with them. Mainly, the utilization of phytoconstituents as cosmetic-containing herbals in the care of skin and hair, such as dryness of skin, acne, eczema, inflammation of the skin, aging, hair growth, and dandruff, along with natural ingredients, such as for hair colorant, are explained in detail in the present review.

This study proposes a review on hyaluronic acid (HA) known as hyaluronan or hyaluronate and its derivates and their application in cosmetic formulations. HA is a glycosaminoglycan constituted from two disaccharides (N-acetylglucosamine and D-glucuronic acid), isolated initially from the vitreous humour of the eye, and subsequently discovered in different tissues or fluids (especially in the articular cartilage and the synovial fluid). It is ubiquitous in vertebrates, including humans, and it is involved in diverse biological processes, such as cell differentiation, embryological development, inflammation, wound healing, etc. HA has many qualities that recommend it over other substances used in skin regeneration, with moisturizing and anti-ageing effects. HA molecular weight influences its penetration into the skin and its biological activity. Considering that, nowadays, hyaluronic acid has a wide use and a multitude of applications (in ophthalmology, arthrology, pneumology, rhinology, aesthetic medicine, oncology, nutrition, and cosmetics), the present study describes the main aspects related to its use in cosmetology. The biological effect of HA on the skin level and its potential adverse effects are discussed. Some available cosmetic products containing HA have been identified from the brand portfolio of most known manufacturers and their composition was evaluated. Further, additional biological effects due to the other active ingredients (plant extracts, vitamins, amino acids, peptides, proteins, saccharides, probiotics, etc.) are presented, as well as a description of their possible toxic effects.

Peptides are fragments of proteins that carry out biological functions. They act as signaling entities via all domains of life and interfere with protein-protein interactions, which are indispensable in bio-processes. Short peptides include fundamental molecular information for a prelude to the symphony of life. They have aroused considerable interest due to their unique features and great promise in innovative bio-therapies. This work focusing on the current state-of-the-art short peptide-based therapeutical developments is the first global review written by researchers from all continents, as a celebration of 100 years of peptide therapeutics since the commencement of insulin therapy in the 1920s. Peptide "drugs" initially played only the role of hormone analogs to balance disorders. Nowadays, they achieve numerous biomedical tasks, can cross membranes, or reach intracellular targets. The role of peptides in bio-processes can hardly be mimicked by other chemical substances. The article is divided into independent sections, which are related to either the progress in short peptide-based theranostics or the problems posing challenge to bio-medicine. In particular, the SWOT analysis of short peptides, their relevance in therapies of diverse diseases, improvements in (bio)synthesis platforms, advanced nano-supramolecular technologies, aptamers, altered peptide ligands and in silico methodologies to overcome peptide limitations, modern smart bio-functional materials, vaccines, and drug/gene-targeted delivery systems are discussed.

The skin is a sentinel organ making easily visible the passing of time. Chronological and environmental aging weakens skin structure and functions. The skin barrier, the elastic and mechanical properties of the cutaneous tissue as well as its vascular reactivity are impacted by aging. The barrier dysfunction in aged skin is caused by defects in epidermal keratinocytes renewal and differentiation notably linked to abnormal expression of microRNAs regulating cell death and autophagy. An abnormal balance between synthesis and degradation of matrix proteins modifies the mechanical properties of the dermis in aged skin. Finally, a reduction of the vascular reactivity linked to endothelial dysfunctions is observed in elderly people. These biological processes can be targeted by therapeutic approaches either topical or systemic, especially using anti-oxydants or senolytics. These anti-aging strategies might contribute to restore, at least in part, the functional integrity of aged skin., (© 2020 médecine/sciences – Inserm.)

Colloidal oatmeal has a long-standing history in the treatment of dermatologic disease. It is composed of various phytochemicals, which contribute to its wide-ranging function and clinical use. It has various mechanisms of action including direct anti-inflammatory, anti-pruritic, anti-oxidant, anti-fungal, pre-biotic, barrier repair properties, and beneficial effects on skin pH. These have been shown to be of particular benefit in the treatment of atopic dermatitis. In Part 1 of this two-part series, we will explore the history of colloidal oatmeal, basic science, mechanism of action, and clinical efficacy in the treatment of atopic dermatitis. J Drugs Dermatol. 2020;19:10(Suppl):s4-7.

Recent years have seen a growth in the Asian cosmeceutical industry and an expanding worldwide marketplace with increasing consumer use of plant-based skin care products. The rising prevalence of Asian cosmeceuticals has led to research studies assessing the safety and efficacy of these products. We seek to review current evidence on safety and efficacy of key ingredients used in Asian cosmeceuticals to treat disorders of hyperpigmentation. A comprehensive search on PubMed was conducted to identify hyperpigmentation-related research studies on eight popular ingredients used in Asian cosmeceuticals: green tea, soy, orchid, licorice, rice water, ginseng, bamboo, and aloe. Both in vitro studies and clinical trials involving human subjects were included. Of the ingredients reviewed, soy and licorice had the most clinical evidence supporting their efficacy, while all other ingredients were supported by in vitro studies. More research is needed to further evaluate the safety and efficacy of Asian cosmeceutical ingredients in treatment of hyperpigmentation. J Drugs Dermatol. 2020;19(7): doi:10.36849/JDD.2020.4776.

Cosmetics are widely used by people around the world to protect the skin from external stimuli. Consumer preference towards natural cosmetic products has increased as the synthetic cosmetic products caused adverse side effects and resulted in low absorption rate due to the chemicals' larger molecular size. The cosmetic industry uses the term "cosmeceutical", referring to a cosmetic product that is claimed to have medicinal or drug-like benefits. Marine algae have gained tremendous attention in cosmeceuticals. They are one of the richest marine resources considered safe and possessed negligible cytotoxicity effects on humans. Marine algae are rich in bioactive substances that have shown to exhibit strong benefits to the skin, particularly in overcoming rashes, pigmentation, aging, and cancer. The current review provides a detailed survey of the literature on cosmeceutical potentials and applications of algae as skin whitening, anti-aging, anticancer, antioxidant, anti-inflammation, and antimicrobial agents. The biological functions of algae and the underlying mechanisms of all these activities are included in this review. In addition, the challenges of using algae in cosmeceutical applications, such as the effectiveness of different extraction methods and processing, quality assurance, and regulations concerning extracts of algae in this sector were also discussed.

The cosmeceutical market is a vast and rapidly growing global industry with hundreds of new products introduced each year. Patients often turn to cosmeceuticals to address their skin problems since these products are more accessible and affordable than prescription products. Unlike most drugs, cosmeceuticals do not undergo strict safety or efficacy testing by the FDA since they are classified as cosmetics. While the marketed properties of some ingredients are thoroughly researched and supported by clinical studies, not all ingredients have been tested to this standard, with some having only molecular or in vitro evidence and hardly any clinical authentication to support their use. Given these characteristics of the industry, dermatologists need to be familiar with cosmeceuticals in order to provide appropriate recommendations to their patients. The goal of this review was to explain the mechanism of action and evaluate the efficacy of popular cosmeceutical ingredients., (© 2019 The International Society of Dermatology.)

Background: Skin-related diseases affect every individual irrespective of age, gender or social status. Since time immemorial, humans have explored natural resources from their environment for the maintenance of the skin. This explorative survey was conducted to document the natural resources (plant and non-plant materials) used for folk cosmeceuticals by rural communities in Vhembe district municipality, Limpopo province, South Africa., Methods: The research was conducted in six communities namely: Tshakuma, Shigalo, Tshamutilikwa, Luvhimbi (Masikhwa), Khakhanwa, and Folovhodwe in Vhembe district. Random and convenient sampling was used to access the target population. Semi-structured questionnaires were used to interview 71 participants that comprised traditional practitioners, herbalists and laypeople from the study area. Collected data were analysed using both quantitative (for e.g. frequency, use-value and relative frequency of citation) and qualitative (thematic) analytical methods., Results: A total of 52 plants from 27 families and 22 non-plant materials were used as folk cosmeceuticals in the study area. The most cited plants included Dicerocaryum zanguebarium (Pedaliaceae), Ricinus communis (Euphorbiaceae) and Helinus integrifolius (Rhamnaceae). Trees and shrubs were the most common plant-life form while leaves were the most popular plant part. Pig fats, red ochre (Luvhundi soil) and ashes were the most cited non-plant materials. These documented natural resources are frequently prepared by crushing and mostly used to heal wounds., Conclusion: Traditional knowledge concerning folk cosmeceuticals is mostly held by elders. The high number of natural resources documented is an indication that Vhembe district is rich in ethnopharmacological knowledge. Scientific investigation of the efficacies and safety of these natural resources is highly recommended as a drive aimed at innovations with benefits to the rural communities who are the custodians of this valuable knowledge.

Introduction: Living with disfiguring disorders can impair the emotional well-being and relationships of patients as well as their social and professional life. Since 2010, courses in medical cosmetic correction for disfiguring diseases have been conducted at the dermatology department of the Timone University Hospital in Marseille and they form part of an educational program. The aim of this study was to assess the satisfaction of patients taking part in this program., Patients and Methods: This is a retrospective study of 55 patients taking part in make-up sessions from January 2010 to December 2014 and subsequently completing a questionnaire., Results: The median patient age was 46 years with most being women (n=49, 89 %). They presented pigmentary disorders (54.5 %), inflammatory diseases (27.3 %) and scars (18.2 %). 75 % of patients stated that they had improved their knowledge and 82 % remarked that the technique was personalized to their needs. The technique was considered as easy by 62 % and reproducible by 87 % of patients. 55 % of patients considered that cosmetic camouflage improved their quality of life and 56 % stated that it helped them accept the gaze of others., Conclusion: In our study skin camouflage appears easy to use and meets patient expectations., (Copyright © 2019 Elsevier Masson SAS. All rights reserved.)

In recent years, consumers' demand for cosmeceutical products with protective and therapeutic functions derived from natural sources have caused this industry to search for alternative active ingredients. Bioactive peptides have a wide spectrum of bioactivities, which make them ideal candidates for development of these cosmeceutical products. In vitro studies have demonstrated that bioactive peptides (obtained as extracts, hydrolysates, and/or individual peptides) exhibit biological properties including antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory activities, in addition to their properties of inhibiting aging-related enzymes such as elastase, collagenase, tyrosinase and hyaluronidase. Some studies report multifunctional bioactive peptides that can simultaneously affect, beneficially, multiple physiological pathways in the skin. Moreover, in vivo studies have revealed that topical application or consumption of bioactive peptides possess remarkable skin protection. These properties suggest that bioactive peptides may contribute in the improvement of skin health by providing specific physiological functions, even though the mechanisms underlying the protective effect have not been completely elucidated. This review provides an overview of in vitro, in silico and in vivo properties of bioactive peptides with potential use as functional ingredients in the cosmeceutical field. It also describes the possible mechanisms involved as well as opportunities and challenges associated with their application., (Copyright © 2019 Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.)

Acne vulgaris occurs due to the inflammation of sebaceous follicles in the skin. It is triggered by the activity of some bacterial species like Propionibacterium acnes , Staphylococcus aureus , and Staphylococcus epidermidis . Acquisition of antibiotic resistance by these microorganisms and adverse effects associated with the current treatment regimens necessitate the introduction of novel therapeutic agents for acne vulgaris. Thus, this study was undertaken to develop novel gel formulations from seeds of Nigella sativa L. and to evaluate the antibacterial potential against some acne-causing bacterial species. The antibacterial activity of seed extracts was initially screened against S. aureus and P. acnes by the agar well diffusion method. Thereafter, topical gels were formulated incorporating the ethyl acetate extract of seeds of N. sativa at three different concentrations. These topical formulations were subjected to antimicrobial activity studies while the stability was evaluated over a period of 30 days. All three formulations were capable of inhibiting the growth of S. aureus and P. acnes , with the highest antibacterial activity in the formulation comprising 15% of the seed extract. Interestingly, the antibacterial potency of this formulation against S. aureus surpassed the commercial synthetic product used as the positive control. Moreover, any alteration in color, odor, homogeneity, washability, consistency, and pH was not observed while the antibacterial potency was also retained during the storage period. The potent antibacterial activity in topical gel formulations developed from the ethyl acetate extract of N. sativa signposts their suitability as alternatives to existing antiacne agents in the management of acne vulgaris., Competing Interests: The authors declare that there are no conflicts of interest regarding the publication of this article.

Acne is a common disease among patients with Latin American ancestry. Its presentation is very similar to that in all skin types, but nodulocystic acne is more frequent in patients with oily and darker skin than in white Caucasians. Acne sequelae in patients with Latin American ancestry and with darker skin include postinflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) and atrophic and hypertrophic scars or keloids, with PIH being the most common complication affecting the quality of life of patients. Lately, more attention has been paid to rosacea in patients with darker skin. It has been seen that some of the patients, especially women, diagnosed with adult acne and who did not respond to treatment, were actually patients with rosacea. It is important to recognize the clinical characteristics of this disease in patients with darker skin in whom erythema and telangiectasia are difficult to observe. Here, we present the most relevant clinical characteristics of both diseases, as well as their treatment in patients with darker skin with Latin American ancestry. J Drugs Dermatol. 2019;18(3 Suppl):s124-126.

Background: Skincare cosmeceutical products have been shown to address intrinsic and extrinsic skin aging. Radiofrequency (RF) with microneedling is effective and safe in improving skin laxity and texture. Pairing skincare cosmeceutical products pre- and post-procedure is beneficial as it enhances patient results, patient results, patient experience, and reduces patient downtime., Objective: To evaluate the tolerability, safety, and efficacy of a multi-ingredient anti-aging facial moisturizer when applied pre- and post-procedure consisting of a single RF microneedling treatment., Method: Fifteen female patients, aged 37-60, Fitzpatrick skin types I-IV, with mild-to-moderate wrinkles were included in the study. Patients applied a multi-ingredient anti-aging facial moisturizer twice a day (morning and night) two weeks prior to RF microneedling and four weeks post-RF microneedling (twice a day). At each time point, investigator objective assessment, self-assessments, and clinical photography were taken., Result: There were no adverse events as evaluated by the investigator. For this combined treatment and procedure patient scored comfort as the highest for satisfaction. Tolerability parameters erythema and edema were reported after RF microneedling treatment and were significant compared to the pre-procedure timepoint. Eighty percent of patients showed an improvement in Glogau Wrinkle Scale, but improvement was not statistically significant between baseline and end of study. Improvements in all skin attributes (radiance, tone, smoothness, texture, redness, dryness, and overall appearance) were statistically significant at the end of the study. Self-perceived skin attribute improvements included overall improvement, brightness, texture, pigmentation, redness, and tightness. The combination of the anti-aging facial moisturizer and RF microneedling was recommended by the patients in this study., Conclusion: This clinical study positively supports the hypothesis that combining the multi-ingredient anti-aging facial moisturizer pre- and post-RF microneedling was safe and tolerable for the patients., (© 2018 Wiley Periodicals, Inc.)

The beneficial effects promoted from the use of biomolecular substances into the formulations of personal care products are considered useful ingredients in cosmetic and therapeutic applications. Innovations in cosmetics are based on new bioactive formulations such as vitamins, oils, peptides, and protein hydrolysates. In skin care, the monomeric amino acids such as serine, threonine, alanine are common ingredients in cosmetics as they function as natural moisturizing factors which act as water-binding molecules. Amino acids and their salts e.g., arginine, glycine, etc. are also used as hair- and skin-conditioning agents in cosmetic formulations. The peptides are composed of short chain of amino acids and are used in cosmetics due to their numerous pathophysiological properties including anti-aging. There is growing interest in bioactive peptides in products for stimulating collagen and elastin synthesis in skin and improve surface healing. The main benefit of using proteins in cosmeceuticals is to improve the hydration of skin. Proteins increase the dehydration in the skin which helps to reduce wrinkles and improves the functions of the skin barrier. This review article describes the peptides, proteins that are most frequently used in cosmeceuticals and their potential benefits and practical use in cosmetic science and skincare.

Skin aging is caused by DNA damage in nuclei and mitochondria, inflammation, glycation, decreased function of keratinocytes and fibroblasts and breakdown of heparan sulfate, hyaluronic acid, collagen, and elastin. Identifying patients at an increased risk of skin aging using a standardized methodology to diagnose the Baumann Skin Type will allow doctors to prescribe an efficacious antiaging skin care regimen. Cosmeceuticals can activate LGR6+ stem cells, improve cell response to signals such as growth factors, stimulate collagen genes, neutralize free radicals, and decrease breakdown of collagen and elastin. Giving written instructions will increase patient compliance and improve outcomes., (Copyright © 2018 Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.)

Acne vulgaris (AV) is the familiar chronic skin ailment affecting most of the individuals. This multifarious, disease involves the bacterium gram-positive, anaerobic Propionibacterium acnes (P. acnes) which resides on skin microflora, and participated in acne inflammation and acne lesions. The object of this review is to discuss presently available in vitro, ex vivo, and in vivo models to evaluate the cosmetic formulations that are developed for dealing and prevention of acne formation. These various available models offer new chances for further research on biologically active materials, drugs & pharmaceutical as well as cosmetics for acne treatment.

Women are inundated with advertisements for products promising younger-looking, healthier skin. The truth is that many of these products can be expensive and produce results that do not live up to the claims. Health care providers can educate women about proven best practices and how to evaluate products' claims of benefits. The best advice is that a well-balanced diet, adequate hydration, use of a topical moisturizer, protection from the sun, and avoiding smoking and tobacco are the most effective measures to not only healthy skin but a healthful life., (© 2016 AWHONN, the Association of Women’s Health, Obstetric and Neonatal Nurses.)

The use of cosmeceuticals by patients with acne is common; however, their role is unclear and confusing, with many asking, "Do they really help acne?" Cosmeceuticals are intermediate products between prescription medications and cosmetics, available to consumers over the counter. These products are popular and may be used without the direct supervision of a dermatologist, creating a practice gap in educating patients. Herein, a variety of cosmeceuticals are discussed, including retinoids, niacinamide, and glycolic acid. The evidence for and against cosmeceutical use in patients with acne is reviewed.

To date, facial acne flare-ups in adult women during the luteal phase of the menstrual cycle have been poorly investigated. To clinically characterize premenstrual acne flare-up in adult women and investigate the effect of a dermocosmetic treatment. This single-centre study included 32 young adult women with declared premenstrual acne flares and was composed of two phases: (1) an observational phase (two menstrual cycles) and (2) an interventional phase (one menstrual cycle) in a controlled, randomised, double-blind, intra-individual (half-face) setting in which a dermocosmetic (containing lipohydroxyacid, nicotinamide, and piroctone-olamine) and placebo were compared. Initially, during the first part of the study, we observed that premenstrual acne flare-ups in adult women were characterized by a significant increase in the number of papules (20.2 vs. 13.7; p = 0.0008) and to a lesser extent, closed comedones (25.6 vs. 22.7; p = 0.04). Secondly, during the interventional phase, the half-face treated with the dermocosmetic formulation showed a significantly lower number of inflammatory lesions (7.6 vs 9.4; p = 0.01) during the luteal phase compared to the half-face treated with the placebo. Tolerance of the dermocosmetic formulation was rated as good or excellent. Our data indicate a significant increase in the number of papules during premenstrual acne flare-ups in adult women and the use of a dermocosmetic may be of benefit in partially reducing this premenstrual inflammatory flare-up.

As the market for South Korean skin care products grows in the U.S. and worldwide, consumers will increasingly seek advice from dermatologists regarding their efficacy. In this paper, the evidence behind the anti-aging and skin whitening activity of ingredients in the most popular South Korean skin care products was reviewed and critically evaluated. Industry profit data from Euromonitor was obtained to identify the top cosmeceutical brands by retail value in South Korea. The top selling products and their ingredients were then identified from individual brand websites. A comprehensive literature search was conducted using Pubmed to identify and grade the anti-aging and whitening efficacy for nine popular ingredients: licorice, niacinamide, beta-glucan, snail mucus, ginkgo biloba, ginseng, green tea, pomegranate, and soy. Of the various ingredients reviewed, niacinamide, green tea, licorice, and soy have the most published data for anti-aging and whitening activity. Although the literature shows modest results, small sample sizes limit interpretation. High-level evidence to support the use of South Korean skin care products in anti-aging and skin whitening is lacking.

J Drugs Dermatol. 2017;16(4):358-364.

Patients with rosacea present a challenge to the dermatologist, as they typically possess sensitive skin, need facial Demodex and bacterial colonization control, exhibit vasomotor instability, require camouflaging of telangiectatic mats, and desire prescription treatment. Currently available pharmaceuticals are aimed at inflammation reduction, primarily with the use of topical and oral antibiotics. Recently, vasoconstrictor formulations have emerged, but these drugs have only a temporary effect and improve appearance without addressing the underlying cause, which remains largely unknown. Cosmeceuticals, including cleansers, moisturizers, cosmetics, sunscreens, and anti-inflammatory botanicals, can be used as adjuvant therapies in combination with traditional therapies. This review explores the effective use of cosmeceuticals in the treatment of rosacea to enhance pharmaceutical outcomes and meet patient expectations in a more satisfactory manner., (Copyright © 2016 Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.)

Background: Rosacea is currently treated according to subtypes. As this does not adequately address the spectrum of clinical presentation (phenotypes), it has implications for patient management. The ROSacea COnsensus panel was established to address this issue., Objectives: To incorporate current best treatment evidence with clinical experience from an international expert panel and establish consensus to improve outcomes for patients with rosacea., Methods: Seventeen dermatologists and three ophthalmologists reached consensus on critical aspects of rosacea treatment and management using a modified Delphi approach. The panel voted on statements using the responses 'strongly disagree', 'disagree', 'agree' or 'strongly agree'. Consensus was defined as ≥ 75% 'agree' or 'strongly agree'. All voting was electronic and blinded., Results: The panel agreed on phenotype-based treatments for signs and symptoms presenting in individuals with rosacea. First-line treatments were identified for individual major features of transient and persistent erythema, inflammatory papules/pustules, telangiectasia and phyma, underpinned by general skincare measures. Multiple features in an individual patient can be simultaneously treated with multiple agents. If treatment is inadequate given appropriate duration, another first-line option or the addition of another first-line agent should be considered. Maintenance treatment depends on treatment modality and patient preferences. Ophthalmological referral for all but the mildest ocular features should be considered. Lid hygiene and artificial tears in addition to medications are used to treat ocular rosacea., Conclusions: Rosacea diagnosis and treatment should be based on clinical presentation. Consensus was achieved to support this approach for rosacea treatment strategies., (© 2016 The Authors. British Journal of Dermatology published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd on behalf of British Association of Dermatologists.)

The industry offers a vast armamentarium of skin care products to clean, soothe, restore, reinforce, protect and to treat our skin and hence to keep it in "good condition". Skin care products are readily available and their promotions with fanciful claims are omnipresent. The promotions are based on effects, evoked by actives that are delivered through vehicles that rely on specific technologies. Due to the fact, that these products are in direct contact to the target tissue, their vehicle and ingredients are able to profoundly modulate the characteristics of the skin and some of its functions. This makes products for the skin absolute unique and versatile delivery systems. This paper discusses the concept of skin care and skin protection, the choice of skin care products, their vehicles, their functionality and their regulatory status., (Copyright © 2016 Tissue Viability Society. Published by Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.)

Facial rejuvenation can be categorized into skincare and facial contouring. Research and development of cosmeceuticals is aimed at addressing the major signs of photoaging: wrinkles, dyschromia, and sallowness. Assessment of photoaging comes in clinical and photographic forms; a photonumeric scale developed by Griffiths et al. has been assured of its validity and reliability for the assessment of severity of photoaging in qualitative studies. Treatment of photoaging comes in two categories: preventive and reversal of signs; whilst sunfactors are the most efficient and essential in preventing photodamage, research and development of cosmeceuticals for facial rejuvenation has been robust, thanks to several landmark studies in the last fifty years, funded by some of the forerunners in contemporary cosmetic industry. Stem cell research remains the current forerunner in research concerning cosmeceuticals. Nevertheless, high-quality, randomized control trials remain scarce within the contemporary literature, and more research and trials without funding by the industry are required to give rise to impartial comparisons between various cosmeceutical products. The "perfect cream" for facial rejuvenation remains elusive., (© 2016 Wiley Periodicals, Inc.)

Background: Melasma is one of the most frequently diagnosed hyperpigmentation changes on the skin of women's faces. Nearly 30% of women using oral estrogen therapy struggle with this problem. A common way of reducing melasma is the application of azelaic acid products., Aim: Comparison of efficacy of three dermocosmetic products, containing azelaic acid, in the reduction in melasma for women aged 35-55., Material and Methods: A group of 60 women diagnosed with melasma were divided into three even, twenty-person subgroups. Each subgroup was assigned one dermocosmetic product containing azelaic acid. For 24 weeks, the patients applied the assigned product twice a day. The level of the colorant within the hyperpigmentation was marked before the treatment, after 1 month, after 3 months, and after 6 months of therapy. The pigmentation was measured using Mexameter(®) (Courage + Khazaka electronic, Germany). In addition, during each inspection, the patients' level of hydration, elasticity, and intensity of erythema was checked using Corneometer(®) , Reviscometer(®) ., Results: All dermocosmetics containing azelaic acid that were applied significantly contributed to the reduction in pigment in the pigmentary lesion. The largest decrease in the amount of pigment was observed in the first 3 months of use of the products. A combination containing 20% azelaic acid and mandelic acid, phytic acid, 4N-butyl resorcinol, and ferulic acid proved to be the most effective dermocosmetic III (Sesderma, Valencia, Spain)., Conclusions: Dermocosmetics containing azelaic acid significantly contribute to the clearing of melasma. The effect depends on the treatment time, the acid concentration, and addition of other components., (© 2016 Wiley Periodicals, Inc.)

This article focuses on nonprescription home-use topical treatment technologies for the aging face and is intended to serve as a guide for the core cosmeceutical technologies currently used and to help educate and assist the selection of topical antiaging products by the professional staff and their patients. Antiaging topical treatments for patient home use should be nonirritating, compatible with the patient skin type, effective, and complementary to surgical and minimally invasive office procedures, and aesthetically elegant. New topical antiaging technologies, formulated as monotherapy or as combinations with well-known cosmeceuticals, should present adequate clinical studies to support their selection for use., (Copyright © 2016 Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.)

Background: Facial aging in the midface reflects cumulative results of multiple intrinsic and extrinsic factors over time. Midfacial rejuvenation procedures can make a positive impact on facial attractiveness and patient satisfaction., Objective: To review evidence and clinical experience using combination treatments for midfacial rejuvenation to achieve optimal outcomes., Materials and Methods: This article provides a review of published scientific evidence supporting the use of combination therapy in midfacial rejuvenation. In addition, the authors share their cumulative clinical experience and best practices for combination treatments in the midface., Results: Clinical experience and evidence shows that combining multiple aesthetic therapies targeting multiple aspects of the aging process provides optimal results, with greater overall efficacy and a higher level of patient satisfaction.

The cosmeceutical industry is a multi-billion dollar, consumer-driven market. Products promise highly desirable anti-aging benefits, but are not subject to regulation. We present an introduction to cosmeceuticals for the general and cosmetic dermatologist, including definitions and explanations of key terms, an approach to the evidence base, a dissection of chamomile and green tea, two paradigmatic cosmeceutical products, and a window into the underlying psychology of this vast marketplace.

As Dermatologists caring for patients with hyperpigmentation problems, we are always looking for more alternative therapies. Hydroquinone (HQ) is still the standard of care. However, traditional depigmenting agents such as HQ and corticosteroids, although highly effective, can raise safety concerns including exogenous ochronosis, atrophy, carcinogenesis and local and systemic untoward effects with long term use. Therefore, we need to investigate non-prescription natural alternatives. This manuscript presents many of the natural ingredients found in cosmeceuticals for the treatment of hyperpigmentation and their mechanisms of action. It will also describe the melanocyte activation pathways and how each of these ingredients interferes with it.

Facial dyspigmentation treatment is an unmet need in dermatology with increasing challenges due to the questionable safety of hydroquinone. This research examined a new OTC formulation containing hydroxyphenoxy propionic acid, ellagic acid, yeast extract, and salicylic acid on subjects who previously completed 12 weeks of treatment with 4% hydroquinone and 0.025% retinoic acid. The goal of this study was to evaluate the skin lightening and tolerability profile of a 20-week maintanence therapy with a cosmeceutical formulation during the summer months. 33 healthy subjects ages 25-60 years with moderate facial dyspigmentation defined as a score of 3 on a 5-point scale were enrolled. There was statistically significant improvement at week 20 in terms of even skin tone (P<0.001), spot intensity (P<0.001), spot size (P<0.05) and overall hyperpigmentation (P>=0.002).