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Acne is one of the most common skin concerns of unknown etiology, often connected to the menstrual cycle in women, and possibly to the microbial profile and function.We aimed to investigate how hormonal fluctuation affects hormonal acne-prone skin in different populations in relation to skin clinical parameters and microbial profiles.We evaluated skin features by using biophysical and topographical tools. For microbial profiling, we sequenced facial skin microbiota and associated the findings with the skin clinical parameters during the different phases of the menstrual cycle.We identified differences between and within hormonal phases in women of Chinese and Caucasian origin. Changes were discovered in transepidermal water loss (TEWL), sebum level, hydration level, and pore volume. The most abundant identifiable genera in both ethnicities were Cutibacterium, Staphylococcus, and Streptococcus, without any significant abundant differences within the menstrual cycle. Interestingly, 11 bacterial metabolic pathways were downregulated in Chinese compared to Caucasian skin during the follicular phase. The majority of these pathways were associated with skin redox balance, perhaps indicating a weaker oxidative stress response in Chinese versus Caucasian skin. Novosphingobium taxa were increased in the Chinese skin microbiome, which has been reported to protect skin from pollution-mediated oxidative stress.Thus, this pilot study explored some of the clinical and metagenomic changes in acne-prone skin, and provide guidance to tailor-personalized skin care regimes during the menstrual cycle. Also, the skin redox status in acne-prone skin, provides more opportunity to tailor-personalized skin care regimes.

The Scandinavian region is home to a unique biome with endemic plant species. The aim of this study was to explore this natural diversity and identify plant extracts providing positive skin barrier effects. Six plant extracts were identified as starting material. Following biochemical screening, two candidates outperformed the rest: Betula alba (BA) and Empetrum nigrum (EN). Quantitative PCR analysis showed that BA and EN upregulated barrier genes, when used individually and in combination. Betula alba increased AQP3 and OCLN protein expression, something niacinamide was incapable of. Additionally, the skin barrier was strengthened, evidenced by inhibition of KLK5 and hyaluronidase and showed strong antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity through DPPH and COX2 inhibition, respectively. A first split-face clinical study was conducted using the combination of extracts versus placebo. There was a significantly better skin restructuring effect and corneocyte cohesion on the side treated with combined extracts. A second split-face clinical study assessed the combined extracts versus 3% niacinamide. Significant variations in skin hydration and TEWL were observed in favor of the extract treated side. In conclusion, we identified a natural alternative to niacinamide for improving skin barrier health, in Scandinavian plant extracts, which yield strong performance, but at a lower concentration.

Higher demands on skin care cosmetic products for strong performance drive intense research to understand the mechanisms of skin aging and design strategies to improve overall skin health. Today we know that our needs and influencers of skin health and skin aging change throughout our life journey due to both extrinsic factors, such as environmental factors and lifestyle factors, as well as our intrinsic factors. Furthermore, we need to consider our microflora, a collection of micro-organisms such as bacteria, viruses, and fungi, which is a living ecosystem in our gut and on our skin, that can have a major impact on our health. Here, we are viewing a holistic approach to understand the collective effect of the key influencers of skin health and skin aging both reviewing how each of them impact the skin, but more importantly to identify molecular conjunction pathways of these different factors in order to get a better understanding of the integrated “genome-microbiome-exposome” effect. For this purpose and in order to translate molecularly the impact of the key influencers of skin health and skin aging, we built a digital model based on system biology using different bioinformatics tools. This model is considering both the positive and negative impact of our genome (genes, age/gender), exposome: external (sun, pollution, climate) and lifestyle factors (sleep, stress, exercise, nutrition, skin care routine), as well as the role of our skin microbiome, and allowed us in a first application to evaluate the effect of the genome in the synthesis of collagen in the skin and the determination of a suitable target for boosting pro-collagen synthesis. In conclusion, we have, through our digital holistic approach, defined the skin interactome concept, as an advanced tool to better understand the molecular genesis of skin aging and further develop a strategy to balance the influence of the exposome and microbiome to protect, prevent, and delay the appearance of skin aging signs and preserve good skin health condition. In addition, this model will aid in identifying and optimizing skin treatment options based on external triggers, as well as helping to design optimal treatments modulating the intrinsic pathways.

Background The use of a skin care routine is commonly promoted by the cosmetic industry, yet there is a lack of clinical evidence to support this practice over the use of a single skin care product. Aims In the present study, we aimed at showing the clinical benefits of using a comprehensive skin care routine vs a simple one. Methods Skin micro-/macro-topographic, skin color, and superficial/deep hydration were collected at baseline and after 4 weeks of use, on forty-nine women randomly allocated to two groups. The first one followed the use of an advanced routine (AR: Cleanser/Toner/Eye cream/Serum/Day & Night cream), while the other group was instructed to use a simple routine (SR: Cleanser & Day cream). Results Hemoglobin heterogeneity was found to be significantly reduced only in the SR group. However, the AR outperformed the SR when it comes to improving superficial hydration, deep hydration, skin roughness, mean pore area, melanin heterogeneity, and crow's feet wrinkle depth. A significant increase in skin brightness from baseline was only recorded when using the AR while both routines significantly improved the nasolabial wrinkles. Conclusion These findings advocate for using a relevant daily routine as it demonstrates the visible skin benefits over a short period, while driving the creation of habits for the prevention of aging signs.

Background: To explore how the efficacy of product trials for skin cosmetics can be improved through the use of consumer-level images taken by volunteers using a conventional smartphone. Materials and Methods: 12 women aged 30 to 60 years participated in a product trial and had close-up images of the cheek and temple regions of their faces taken with a high-resolution Antera 3D CS camera at the start and end of a 4-week period. Additionally, they each had ``selfies'' of the same regions of their faces taken regularly throughout the trial period. Automatic image analysis to identify changes in skin colour used three kinds of colour normalisation and analysis for wrinkle composition identified edges and calculated their magnitude. Results: Images taken at the start and end of the trial acted as baseline ground truth for normalisation of smartphone images and showed large changes in both colour and wrinkle magnitude during the trial for many volunteers. Conclusions: Results demonstrate that regular use of selfie smartphone images within trial periods can add value to interpretation of the efficacy of the trial., 17 pages, 12 figures, 3 tables. This is the submitted version, the definitive published version is at https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1111/srt.12928

Previous investigations have aimed at investigating parameters affecting age perception on several ethnicities. Perceived health has been a newer focus on Caucasian skin, yet little is known on the skin features used to estimate the health status of Chinese women and we aimed to investigate whether these cues are the same as those used for age perception.Age and health appearance of 276 Chinese female volunteers were estimated from their photographs by 1025 female naïve Chinese graders 20-69 years old. Models were built to predict perceived age and health from topographic, colour and biophysical measured variables, in two subsets of the studied volunteers: below and above 50 years. Machine learning-based predictive models for age and health perception were built on the collected data, and the interpretability of the models was established by measuring feature importance.Age perception was mostly driven by topographic features, particularly eye bags and eyelid sagging in the group below 50 years old. Wrinkles, notably from the lower part of the face and oval of the lower face, were found to be more relevant in the group above 50 years. Health appearance was primarily signalled by skin imperfections and global pigmentation in the subset below 50 years, whereas colour-related parameters and skin hydration acted as health cues for the subset above 50 years.Distinct skin features were acting as cues for age perception and/or health perception and varied per age subset. Their contribution should be borne in mind when designing products for 'younger looking skin' and 'healthier looking skin'.Des études se sont penchées sur les paramètres cutanés influant sur la perception de l’âge, et ce sur plusieurs groups ethniques. La santé perçue quant à elle est un focus plus récent, avec des données publiées sur les peaux caucasiennes, au contraire des peaux chinoises. Nous avons donc décidé d’étudier quels sont ces paramètres cutanés influant sur la santé perçue et s’ils diffèrent de ceux utilisés dans la perception de l’âge, au sein d’un panel de femmes chinoises. MÉTHODES: L'âge et la santé cutanée de 276 femmes chinoises ont été estimés à partir de leurs photographies par un panel de 1025 évaluatrices naïves âgées de 20 à 69 ans. Des modèles ont été construits pour prédire l'âge et la santé perçus à partir de paramètres cutanés topographiques, de couleur et biophysiques, dans deux groupes d’âges différents : en dessous et au-dessus de 50 ans. Des modèles prédictifs basés sur l'apprentissage automatique (Machine learning) pour la perception de l'âge et de la santé ont été construits à partir des données collectées et l'interprétabilité des modèles a été établie en mesurant l'importance des paramètres cutanés. RÉSULTATS: Nos résultats montrent que la perception de l’âge repose principalement sur des paramètres topographiques, en particulier les poches sous les yeux et l’affaissement de la paupière, pour le groupe âgé de moins de 50 ans. Les rides, notamment celles de la partie basse du visage et le contour de la partie basse du visage se sont montrés pertinents pour estimer l’âge dans le groupe âgé de plus de 50 ans. La perception de la santé est principalement affectée par les imperfections cutanées et la pigmentation dans le groupe âgé de moins de 50 ans, tandis que des paramètres liés à la couleur et l’hydratation prennent le relais pour le groupe âgé de plus de 50 ans.Des paramètres cutanés de nature diverse sont pris en compte selon que l’on essaye d’estimer l’âge ou la santé, et ce en fonction du groupe d’âge étudié. Leur contribution doit être prise en compte lors de la conception de produits pour une «peau d'apparence plus jeune» et une «peau d'apparence plus saine».

BACKGROUND As the eye contour ages, the skin on the lid becomes lax often causing a voluminous protrusion where the superior palpebral sulcus begins to sag onto the upper eyelid. This sagging feature may present a novel anti-ageing target for cosmetic products when treating the eye area. A quantitative method to evaluate the volume of this sagging feature has not been previously established. We investigate the use of the DermaTOP fringe projector and Antera 3D Camera to this end. METHODS Eyelid topographic measurements were collected on 20 female volunteers aged 50-75 years with the DermaTOP and Antera 3D. The DermaTOP and Antera 3D measurements were assessed for reproducibility and product effect detection capabilities. RESULTS The DermaTOP and Antera 3D successfully measured sagging feature volume, demonstrated reproducibility of measurement and furthermore were suitably sensitive to allow for detection of sagging feature volume reduction after a single application of aqueous tightening serum. DermaTOP parameters were found to moderately correlated with the Antera 3D parameters. CONCLUSION Both the DermaTOP and Antera 3D allow for quantitative measurement of eyelid sagging feature volume and in-turn permit evaluation of anti-ageing cosmetic preparations targeting the eyelid.

In spite of hand care being a dynamic segment of skin care, hands skin physiology has been receiving little attention in comparison to facial skin. In the present study, we aimed at gathering a comprehensive set of skin data from the dorsal part of the hand to study age related-changes in two ethnic groups (Caucasian and Chinese).Skin topographic, skin colour/colour heterogeneities, skin chromophores and skin biophysical measurements of 116 Caucasian and Chinese female volunteers aged 30-65 years old were collected in Ireland and in China as part of a cross-sectional study.Topographic alterations happened at both micro and macro scales with a noticeable delay in the onset of 10 years for the Chinese cohort. Similar evolution of skin colour with ageing was observed between the two cohorts and strong dissimilarities were seen when it came to colour heterogeneities and melanin hyper concentration, with a 20-year delay in severity for the Chinese cohort. A similar sharp drop of skin hydration occurred when reaching the 60's regardless of the group and substantial differences were recorded for skin biomechanical properties of the skin.These results provide additional insights about hand skin physiology in relation to ageing and ethnic differences, especially when put into perspective with what is currently known about facial ageing. This research yield additional material for hand cream product rationale and strategies for mitigating the appearance of ageing hands.Même si le soin pour les mains demeure un segment dynamique en termes de ventes de produits cosmétiques, peu d’études se sont penchées sur la physiologie de la peau des mains en comparaison du visage. Le but de cette étude est d’élucider les changements de la partie dorsale de la main induits par le vieillissement, au sein de deux groupes ethniques (Caucasienne et Chinoise).Des mesures de la topographie, de couleur et de distribution de la couleur, de chromophores et des propriétés biophysiques de la peau de la main ont été collectées sur 116 sujets féminins d'origine caucasienne ou chinoise, âgées entre 30 et 65 ans, en Irlande et en Chine dans le cadre d'une étude cross-sectionnelle.Des altérations de la topographie de la peau ont été observés à plusieurs échelles, micro et macroscopique, avec néanmoins un délai de 10 ans dans la détérioration de la peau en faveur du panel Chinois. Au niveau de la couleur, des évolutions similaires ont été mesurées dans les deux panels, avec cependant de fortes dissimilarités pour ce qui est de la distribution de la couleur de la peau et de l'hyperconcentration de mélanine, avec des changements retardés de 20 ans en faveur du panel d'origine chinoise. Un déclin d'hydratation significatif s'est produit à partir de la soixantaine dans les deux panels étudiés tandis que des différences flagrantes ont été relevées en ce qui concerne les propriétés biomécaniques de la peau.Ces résultats offre des données supplémentaires sur la physiologie de la peau des mains lors du vieillissement cutané et sur les différences à prendre en compte entre deux groupes ethniques très distincts, surtout si l'on considère les différences avec le vieillissement du visage. Cette étude fournit un support additionnel pour la conception de crèmes pour les mains et les stratégies à mettre en place pour atténuer l'apparence de mains âgées.

Background The cause of enlarged pores remains obscure but still remains of concern for women. To complement subjective methods, bioengineered methods are needed for quantification of pores visibility following treatments. The study objective was to demonstrate the suitability of pore measurements from the Antera 3D. Material and methods Pore measurements were collected on 22 female volunteers aged 18-65 years with the Antera 3D, the DermaTOP and image analysis on photographs. Additionally, 4 raters graded pore size on photographs on a scale 0-5. Repeatability of Antera 3D parameters was ascertained and the benefit of a pore minimizer product on the cheek was assessed on a sub panel of seven female volunteers. Results Pore parameters using the Antera were shown to depict pore severity similar to raters on photographs, except for Max Depth. Mean pore volume, mean pore area and count were moderately correlated with DermaTOP parameters (up to r = .50). No relationship was seen between the Antera 3D and pore visibility analysis on photographs. The most repeatable parameters were found to be mean pore volume, mean pore area and max depth, especially for the small and medium filters. The benefits of a pore minimizer product were the most striking for mean pore volume and mean pore area when using the small filter for analysis, rather than the medium/large ones. Conclusion Pore measurements with the Antera 3D represent a reliable tool for efficacy and field studies, with an emphasis of the small filter for analysis for the mean pore volume/mean pore area parameters.

Background Skin topographic measurements are of paramount importance in the field of dermo-cosmetic evaluation. The aim of this study was to investigate how the Antera 3D, a multi-purpose handheld camera, correlates with other topographic techniques and changes in skin topography following the use of a cosmetic product. Methods Skin topographic measurements were collected on 26 female volunteers aged 45-70 years with the Antera 3D, the DermaTOP and image analysis on parallel-polarized pictures. Different filters for analysis from the Antera 3D were investigated for repeatability, correlations with other imaging techniques and ability to detect improvements of skin topography following application of a serum. Results Most of Antera 3D parameters were found to be strongly correlated with the DermaTOP parameters. No association was found between the Antera 3D parameters and measurements on parallel-polarized photographs. The measurements repeatability was comparable among the different filters for analysis, with the exception of wrinkle max depth and roughness Rt. Following a single application of a tightening serum, both Antera 3D wrinkles and texture parameters were able to record significant improvements, with the best improvements observed with the large filter. Conclusion The Antera 3D demonstrated its relevance for cosmetic product evaluation. We also provide recommendations for the analysis based on our findings.

It remains important to investigate skin ageing signs across different skin types for targeted solutions. Limited data is available on Indian skin changes throughout ageing, hence three fields were investigated: skin features during the ageing process, their relationship with perceived age and self-declared skin ageing concerns. Photographs, skin topography, colour and biophysical measurements of 202 Indian female volunteers, 30–65 years old, were collected. Another panel of 693 naïve graders, 20–65 years old, estimated the age of photographs previously collected. Associations between 28 skin features and real/perceived age were assessed using linear correlation coefficients. Skin feature scores of an older perceived group were compared versus the scores of a younger perceived group, to establish skin features that lead to an older appearance. Additionally, the naïve graders were asked to rank 12 skin ageing concerns by importance. Twenty-four features correlated with real and perceived age. The ages of the volunteers were overestimated, especially those in their 30s. Skin features related to skin brightness suggested an older look for volunteers in their 30s. From the 40s onwards, wrinkles around the eye area, glabellar and corner of the mouth were also drivers for looking older. In the 50s, features such as upper lip wrinkles, hydration and roughness on the crow’s feet were worse in the older perceived group, while nasolabial folds suggested an older appearance in the 60s. By having identified skin features that worsen with age and contribute to an older perceived face, this research will facilitate the creation of tailored products and communication for Indian women to look after their skin concerns throughout the ageing process.