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The objective of the study was to associate, on the same Chinese male subjects, changes in facial ageing signs with some biomechanical skin properties.The severities of 20 facial ageing signs of 219 differently aged Chinese men (20-65 years) were graded in blind by trained experts through standardized photographs, using a referential skin Atlas dedicated to Asian men. On each subject, the mechanical properties were assessed on the cheek area (left or right at random) by the validated suction technique Cutometer®. Finally, the skin colour parameters were assessed on images from VISIA-CR device.Clinically speaking, the severity of almost all facial ageing signs increases from 30 to 65 years, in a linear-like progression, whereas the 20-30 years shows weak increases. Skin colour shows slight but progressive decreases in Luminance and ITA, whereas the yellow and red components slightly increased between 40 and 65 years. At the exception of skin firmness, the skin mechanical properties show a clear decline during the 30-50 years period and plateau beyond.The present study suggests that the 20-30 years period, albeit more clinically 'silent' than the other periods of age, seems to be an age range during which early alterations of some dermal elements' onset. Deeper in vivo investigating techniques (Echography, Multiphotonic microscopy) are needed to confirm such hypothesis.Pouvoir associer, sur les mêmes sujets masculins chinois, les modifications des signes de vieillissement faciaux avec certaines propriétés mécaniques du tégument. MÉTHODES: Les sévérités de vingt signes du vieillissement faciaux de 219 hommes chinois de différents âges (de 20 à 65 ans) ont été évalués en aveugle par des experts entraînés sur des photographies standardisées en utilisant des échelles cliniques de référence pour les hommes asiatiques issues des Atlas du vieillissement. Sur chaque sujet les propriétés biomécaniques ont été enregistrées sur la zone de la joue (droite ou gauche suivant un plan de randomization) avec un appareil de succion validé, le Cutometer®. Enfin, les paramètres coloriels ont été mesurés sur des images enregistrées avec le VISIA-CR. RÉSULTATS: D'un point de vue clinique, la sévérité de la plupart des signes étudiés augmentent de manière linéaire de 30 à 65 ans, tandis qu'entre 20 et 30 ans les augmentations sont faibles. La couleur de la peau présente une faible, mais linéaire, chute de la luminance et de l'ITA, tandis que les composantes jaune et rouge augmentent légèrement entre 40 et 65 ans. A exception de la fermeté de la peau, les propriétés mécaniques présentent une chute importante entre 30 et 50 ans et un plateau ensuite.Cette étude suggère que la période entre 20 et 30 ans, observée comme “silencieuse” d'un point de vue Clinique contrairement aux autres classes d’âge, semble être un moment charnière durant lequel les premières altérations dermiques s'opèrent. De plus amples investigations in vivo usant de techniques d’imageries structurelles (Microscopie Multi-photonique, Echographie…) seraient nécessaires pour confirmer de tells hypothèses.

The present paper aims at analyzing how and to which extent the subjective concept of Beauty through the facial appearance of humans can be scientifically studied and objectively defined The major criteria that affect the appearance of facial skin and hair are reviewed with a special mention to their individual psychological social and ethnic impacts The underlying and silent biological events that govern facial appearance are described at the light of the most recent findings The constant dialogestablished between skin and brain in addition to its sensorial aspect owns a particular importance in driving strong individual and social relationships and in governing attractiveness All these exposed criteria allow the respective roles impacts and duties of the two complementary branches that both aim at modifying facial appearance i e Dermatology and Cosmetics to be better described Through the so subjective concept of beauty the present review attempts to illustrate the permanent and strong connection between the inseparable physiological and psychological facets The good maintenance of their respective balances is the core definition of health as stated by the World Health Organization

Silicon image sensor (SIS) technology was recently introduced as an innovative tool (SkinChip®, L'Oreal) providing sensitive imaging of the skin capacitance. This method can detect discrete focal variations in skin surface hydration, and thus early discrete manifestations of skin irritation induced by surfactants. In the present in vivo study, 2 neat and diluted shampoos, and 5% and 10% sodium laurylsulfate solutions were tested on human skin. Each surfactant solution was gently rubbed on the skin using wet hair wicks mimicking the casual use of a shampoo on the scalp. Clinical and SIS evaluations were carried out. In addition, the same products were tested using the ex vivo corneosurfametry bioassay performed on human stratum corneum (SC) harvested by cyanoacrylate skin surface strippings. The colourimetric index of mildness (CIM) was measured on these samples. The product reactivity with the SC was recognized by darker skin capacitance images, and by both lowered SkinChip®-generated values and lowered CIM values. The extent in changes varied according to the nature of the test products and their concentrations. The SkinChip® image changes likely corresponded to the acute surfactant-induced water swelling of the corneocytes. Skin capacitance imaging and corneosurfametry allow to disclose discrete surfactant-induced alterations of corneocytes.

Background: Ultraviolet light radiations (UVR) may be responsible for hair cycle synchronization and telogen effluvium in the animal and humans. The effect if any of cumulative UVR on chronic hair shedding and androgenic alopecia (AGA) is largely unknown. Objective: To compare the severity of AGA with the extent of solar elastosis. Method: The present study combining immunohistochemistry and computerized image analysis was undertaken in 140 men with AGA and 50 non-alopecic men. Solar elastosis was identified using the antibody to lysozyme, and collagen was revealed by Sirius red staining. The number and diameter of hair shafts were also assessed. Results: The scalp dermis was significantly thicker in AGA than in unaffected subjects. The difference was mainly due to a severer elastosis in baldness. The earliest signs of solar elastosis preceded hair thinning. When elastosis was thicker than 0.2 mm, a negative exponential correlation was found between hair diameter and severity of solar elastosis. Conclusion: Chronic UVR exposure of the scalp may affect the hair cycle and be one of the exogenous factors influencing negatively the progression of AGA. The induction of stress-induced premature senescence by reactive oxygen species and micro-inflammation might be operative at the level of the follicular stem cells.

Skin ageing and gender influences on the scalp have been seldom studied. We revisited the changes in the interfollicular scalp. The study was performed on a population of 650 volunteers (300 women and 350 men) for over 7 years. Three age groups were selected in both genders, namely, subjects aged 20–35, 50–60, and 60–70 years. The hair status was further considered according to nonalopecic and alopecic patterns and severity (discrete, moderate, and severe). Biopsies from the parietal area were processed for immunohistochemistry. Stromal cells were distinguished according to the presence of vimentin, Factor XIIIa, CD117, and versican. Blood and lymphatic vessels were highlighted by Ulex europaeus agglutinin-1 and human podoplanin immunoreactivities, respectively. Actinic elastosis was identified by the lysozyme coating of elastic fibres. The epidermis was explored using the CD44 variant 3 and Ki67 immunolabellings. Biplot analyses were performed. Immunohistochemistry revealed a prominent gender effect in young adults. Both Factor XIIIa+ dermal dendrocytes and the microvasculature size decreased with scalp ageing. Alopecia changes mimicked stress-induced premature senescence.

Based on the clinical presentation of some skin pigmentation disorders it is thought that a bicompartmental functional system exists in the epidermal melanocyte population. It corresponds to the perifollicular and interfollicular compartments, respectively. The present study was undertaken looking for the presence of such a system on scalp unaffected by pigmentary disorders. The scalps of 100 men with incipient to severe androgenic alopecia were examined using a videocamera equipped with an internal ultraviolet light-emitting unit. The face, trunk and limbs were similarly examined in 45 of these adults and in 13 children of both sexes. In 92 men, a subclinical hypermelanosis was found as a speckled pattern centered on every single follicle. With increasing baldness severity, another epidermal hyperpigmentation pattern involving the interfollicular area was superimposed to the perifollicular pattern. These stereotyped patterns of subclinical melanoderma were also disclosed on the face of adults, but not in children. In addition, the spotty perifollicular pattern was discrete or not apparent on the other parts of the body. It is concluded that the perifollicular subclinical melanotic pattern is a regional characteristic of cephalic skin, perhaps related to the local production of melanocortins, particularly alpha-MSH by the pilosebaceous unit.