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Introducing the history of two interconnected fashion houses of Belle Époque Paris—the Maison Babani and Au Mikado—this article offers a reconsideration of the role that extra-Europeans played in shaping modern Euro-American fashion. Their founders arrived in Europe as import merchants during the final decades of the nineteenth century but soon joined a cohort of artists, designers, and tastemakers who were experimenting with radical new approaches to women's dress. A polycentric history that traverses multiple generations and myriad borders, the story of the Maison Babani and Au Mikado not only uncovers the lives of forgotten couturiers: its many chapters also provide an alternative account of the birth of modern Euro-American fashion, by way of Constantinople, Algiers, and Kyoto, and various locations in between. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This article re-examines the aid-to-couture plans enacted by France at the end of the 1960s from both historical and diplomatic perspectives. In so doing, it assesses the decision-making process of French public authorities, couturiers and textile manufacturers by cross-referencing archives from multi-stakeholder meetings with diplomatic archives. By building on the current literature in Fashion Studies that stands at the confluence of cultural and business perspectives, this article adds to it a diplomatic perspective to re-evaluate the role of fashion for diplomacy. It argues that contrary to the traditional narrative on the role of fashion in favour of textile exports, haute couture and fashion instead became a fixture of France's post-war prestige-based commercial diplomacy through a mix of nation branding avant la lettre and export branding. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The document from FEBS Open Bio acknowledges and lists the reviewers who contributed their time and expertise to review articles for Volume 14. The reviewers play a crucial role in scrutinizing experimental design and results, challenging authors about their conclusions. The document respectfully lists the names of all reviewers involved in the review process. [Extracted from the article]

Computational wearables are redefining our presence in the world and transforming our lifestyles by engendering a seamless connection between the wearer and the worn. Despite numerous original studies on the development as well as the current advances of wearables, a systematic review from the standpoint of fashion seems to be lacking. Thus, this systematic review aimed to explore the current state of research on computational fashion in wearables' literature in terms of the key domains, theoretical models, materials, interaction modalities, and existing gaps. To this aim, the authors built a search string based on the keywords in related topics and conducted the research using Scopus databases. As a result, a total of 4777 papers between January 1990 to August 2021 were screened and 82 research study papers finally passed the inclusion-exclusion criteria for the purpose of the review. The results display: first, computational wearables' studies are becoming more inclined towards the aesthetic aspects of fashion wearables; second, although the functional aspects of the design processes received more attention, embodiment was the most discussed theory in the included studies; third, the extensive application of fabric implied the need for new fabrics with both smart quality and flexibility to afford aesthetic aspects; fourth, ambient data as input modalities received extensive attention in fashion wearables; fifth, kinetic output modalities as novel modes of fashion expression are becoming as prevalent as visual modalities. Finally, our findings provide a detailed overview of distinct facets of studies on computational fashion and a future research agenda for researchers and designers working on fashion and wearables. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This paper critically considers the circular economy in the Kenyan fashion industry context, addressing structural and geographical hierarchies and inequalities in the conceptualisation of the circular economy and its associated practices in fashion. From the perspective of fashion designers, it highlights specific geopolitical and geo-economic tensions between local cultural foundations of 'circular' fashion and the impact of global market forces. Focusing on dynamics relating to second-hand clothing imports and Export Processing Zones (EPZs) for garment manufacturing, we present findings from qualitative research with Kenyan fashion designers (2019–2023) demonstrating how they both inhibit circular economy development in fashion and provide opportunities for innovations through creative adaptation practices. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In order to improve the user experience of protective clothing for healthcare workers and reduce the design blindness and subjectivity of developers, we propose a research methodology that combines the Kano model, QFD quality function deployment, and PUGH decision-making scheme to develop conceptual solutions for medical protective clothing design. Firstly, we use the Kano model to identify the user requirements of healthcare workers and construct a hierarchy of functional requirements for protective clothing. Secondly, we use the QFD method to weigh the protective clothing design elements, convert user requirements into design elements, establish a relationship matrix between user requirements and design elements, and generate four conceptual design solutions based on the results. Finally, we use the PUGH decision-making method to filter and select the best concept solution for protective clothing design, and validate the design evaluation. Our results show that the protective clothing solutions designed using the combined Kano-QFD-PUGH system approach have a higher level of satisfaction compared to traditional protective clothing design. This method accurately explores the mapping relationship between user requirements and design functional elements and can be used as a general reliability design method. It helps to improve the development efficiency of designers and the decision-making role for design concept solution preference. Overall, our research methodology provides a comprehensive approach to developing medical protective clothing, which can be useful for designers and decision-makers in the healthcare industry. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Despite advancements in sustainable apparel design, upcycling practices still face challenges limiting creativity and efficiency. This study develops a Modular Redesign System (MRS) using 3D digital technology to improve the upcycling process. The MRS was created with CLO3D and Aftereffects, producing ten redesign samples and demonstration videos. In-depth interviews with South Korean upcycling apparel designers were conducted to assess the system’s perceived effectiveness and explore key issues in upcycling design. The MRS involves four stages: Selection, Virtualisation, Virtual Ideation, and Construction and Fitting. Findings highlight the MRS’s ability to enhance ideation, reduce material waste, and save time and costs, offering practical solutions to current challenges in apparel redesign. The MRS also shows potential for mass customisation, serving as an effective communication tool for personalised upcycling services. This study bridges a gap in the literature by integrating 3D virtual simulation with modular design to advance sustainable and efficient upcycling practices. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The aim of this study is to examine the convenience and innovations that usage of artificial intelligence systems brings to both the designer and the industry in the design process, and to research the opportunities that artificial intelligence technology will offer in the field of fashion design in the future. Artificial intelligence systems are becoming an integral part of the industry in the field of design, as in many other areas, offering alternative solutions in terms of speed and efficiency. The study, prepared as a review article using the case study method among qualitative research techniques, examines the use of artificial intelligence technology in the field of fashion design. The data related to the use and purposes of artificial intelligence tools in fashion design were obtained by scanning different written and visual literature sources by document analysis and content analysis method. According to the research, the use of artificial intelligence in fashion design not only facilitates time savings for designers but also enhances their understanding of customer preferences. It also ensures that designers reach a greater amount of resources easily and quickly, thereby obtaining more efficient results. Additionally, the role of artificial intelligence as a tool for interactive collaboration between designers and customers, the capability of conducting trend analysis, and its function for everyone, enabling the demonstration of design skills, constitute critical contributions to fashion design. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In Fashion at the Edge, Caroline Evans places the past and present in conversation to investigate 1990s fashion's obsession with the spectacular, the apocalyptic and the melancholic. Drawing on Ulrich Lehmann and Barbara Burman Baines's writing on fashion revivals, she reads the citation of historical imagery by designers such as Alexander McQueen, Walter Van Beirendonck and Hussein Chalayan as 'not so much a backwards as a forwards glance': a contemporary projection of fears of the future and a collective response to the nihilism arising from the sensation of sitting at the end of history. Fitting, then, that on the event of Fashion at the Edge's reissue, we return to a work that has become something of a cult classic the world over. Twenty years after it was originally published, Caroline and I sat down to discuss the book in the context of a very different fashion landscape and question why fashion imagery is now less informed by themes of cruelty and deathliness, despite the ongoing persistence of collective anxiety and trauma. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Fit sessions are essential in making well-fitted clothing. During these sessions, apparel fit is determined iteratively by a team of designers, technical designers, fit models, and merchandisers. With the advent of the digitalization of new product development processes in the fashion industry, fit sessions have been seen as a bottleneck for they are still held in person. However, the process is currently still irreplaceable, and what makes the feedback provided by fit models important is an area that has never been tapped. Therefore, the present study aimed to understand fit models' role in fit sessions as well as how they assess the fit of garments and deliver their feedback. On-site observation during fit sessions and individual interviews with fit models were conducted. It was found that fit models gave comfort, fit, and tactile comments by testing garments while standing and moving between several postures. They had knowledge that overlapped with those of technical designers and designers and this empowerment enabled them to take part in the decision-making process in fit sessions. It also was found that fit models' feedback on garments was essential as they were the first people to try on the garments and present the customers' points of view. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In order to control the Stable Diffusion model accurately generating clothing images in a specific designer's style, the LoRA model is applied to fine-tune the Stable Diffusion generation process to achieve stylized clothing image generation. Taking the design style of Sun Lin, one of China's top ten fashion designers, as an example, firstly, the clothing from the designer's fashion show is systematically analyzed to extract the designer's stylistic features. Then three stylized LoRA models are crafted according to the designer's style factors, and the effectiveness of each style factor is individually assessed. Finally, by simultaneously invoking the three LoRA models, clothing images with designer-style characteristics are generated. The experimental results show that invoking multiple stylized LoRA models to fine-tune the Stable Diffusion generation process can make the generated clothing images conform to the desired designer's style, realize the transfer design of designer style, and improve the efficiency of designers in clothing series design and product development. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The body of literature addressing platform capitalism, platform labour and platform urbanism paints a compelling picture of how digital platforms shape the dynamics of both leisure and labour within the framework of the platform's model for extracting value. However, this literature rarely captures how the global timespaces of digital platforms are translated in platform-mediated fields of work and which frictions occur in this process. Therefore, the contrasts between the rhythms of the platform prompting users towards instantaneous data production and the production capabilities of the humans, whose daily (work) life has become dependent on such platforms, remain largely unexplored. In this article, I develop the lens of timespace friction, by integrating the existing research on platform labour with a timespace perspective. The aim is to present a framework that reveals the contrasting relationship between the conflating rhythms of platform capitalism and platform-mediated labour. The mechanisms are explored utilising an ethnographic case study of the digital labour of independent fashion designers on Instagram. The proposed perspective on timespace friction demonstrates that mobile apps function as metronomes, nudging the timespaces of daily (work) life. Timespaces are thus negotiated in the polyrhythmic encounters of daily life, where designers challenge the rhythms of the platform or accelerate their practices to follow the imposed pace. A timespace friction perspective therefore sees beyond the smooth operating mechanisms of the platform economy that promise real-time data, flexibility and efficiency, revealing the hidden struggles of synchronisation (speeding up), de-synchronisation (slowing down) and losing grip (going viral). [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This research explore factors influencing entrepreneurial sustainability and financial stability within the context of the fashion industry, with a focus on the perceptions of fashion designers in Abia State. Descriptive survey methods were employed to provide a comprehensive understanding of the subject matter. The total population for the study was 487, which comprises all registered fashion designers operating in Aba, hence the whole population was used for the study. The study was carried out in Aba which is one of the major fashion hubs in Abia State. Data was collected through structured questionnaire titled Questionnaire on Perceived Entrepreneurial Sustainability and Financial Stability among Fashion Designers (QPESFAFD). The data collected was analyzed using mean and standard deviation to answer the items on each objective. The findings revealed that there are perceived entrepreneurial sustainability strategies adopted by fashion designers, and perceptions influence the financial stability of fashion businesses. It also revealed that there are challenges and opportunities faced by fashion designers in sustaining their businesses and achieving financial stability. Based on the findings, recommendations were made that, there should be regular workshops and training sessions that will focus on financial management and planning specifically tailored for fashion designers and networking and collaboration platforms should facilitate knowledge sharing, resource pooling, and collaboration among fashion designers in Abia State