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The demand for waterproof breathable fabrics is increasing globally and so are efforts to develop such garments. In this paper, the development of a waterproof breathable textile by coating a double face knitted fabric is described. The applied polymeric coating is a mixture of an acrylic paste and a fluorocarbon resin. The aim of this study was the investigation of the breathability and waterproofness of the coated samples. The coating was made of industrialized chemical products and did not require water use. The screen coating process wastewater was also reduced. Three parameters related to the coating process were analyzed and optimized. These parameters were the fluorocarbon resin quantity (%), acrylic paste quantity (g·m−2), and reticulation time (min). The analyzed responses were the air permeability, windproofness, water vapor permeability, and resistance to water penetration. The optimized values of air permeability and water vapor permeability were equal to 154.81 L·m−2·s−1 and 83.852%, respectively. These values were judged acceptable when compared with commercialized products. The windproofness and the resistance to water penetration were equal to 161.81 L·m−2·s−1 and 78.51 Schmerber, respectively. Thus, both responses still need to be improved in order to obtain waterproofness properties. Based on the obtained results, the coated fabric can be used as a laminate outer layer for producing waterproof breathable fabrics.

This research reports the designing and the optimization of a waterproof breathable fabric. A new waterproof breathable fabric made by coating a double sided spacer knit with a mixture of an acrylic paste and a fluorocarbon resin is presented. The treated fabric can be used for producing outdoor garments. The surface states of treated samples were characterized by using the assessment of the coating add-on (%), water contact angle (°), surface free energy (mN·m−1), and roughness (mm). The main coating process parameters were studied by using the Box-Behnken experimental design. It was proved that the quantity of acrylic paste (g·m−2) and the reticulation time (min) have the most significant effect on the coating add-on value (%). The surface free energy (mN·m−1) is affected by the three studied factors. Roughness was also evaluated before and after the coating treatment. However, no significant variation in values was noticed. Optimum responses are obtained with 2.71 % of fluorocarbon resin, 412.00 g·m−2 of acrylic paste, and a reticulation time equal to 13.52 minutes. Optimized values for the coating add-on, SFE, and roughness are equal to 79.716 %, 29.17 mN·m−1, and 0.058 mm, respectively.

The present paper investigates the effects of breed and age on the dye fixation on wool using a reactive dye. It also examines the optimization of the dyeing process realized using the response surface methodology. The dyeing step was carried out on raw wool using the bichromatic blue dye reagent Cibacron P-3R (C.I. Reactive Blue 49). The factors affecting the dyeing process, such as ammonia concentration, temperature, and the duration of the dyeing time, were studied using the response surface methodology. The performance of this dyeing process was evaluated by measuring the color yield (the dye fixation). The results have shown that the age and the breed of sheep have a significant effect (P

The purpose of this research was to evaluate mechanical properties of a waterproof breathable fabric. A spacer knit with a cotton inner face and a polyester (PET) outer face was coated in order to obtain a waterproof breathable fabric. The applied coat was a mixture of an acrylic paste and a fluorocarbon resin. The treated fabric has undergone several tests to evaluate its mechanical properties. Tensile strength, flexural strength, abrasion resistance, and wrinkle recovery behavior were measured and discussed. After the coating treatment, the fabric was rigidified by 25% and 19% in wale and course directions, respectively. The coated PET face of the spacer fabric was not altered even after 125,000 abrasion cycles. A stiffer fabric was obtained after the coating treatment. However, fabric recovery behavior was ameliorated by 78% and 72% according to wale and course directions, respectively. The coated fabric can be used to produce raincoats and jackets.

This work aims to study the hydrogen bond energy and distance for different samples of alfa fibers treated with thymol. The treatment duration and thymol concentration were varied and seem to have a great influence on infrared band intensities and positions. The number of hydrogen bonds is related to the infrared band intensity, whereas their energy and distance depend on the infrared band position. It was proven that the free hydroxyl groups are weakened and tend to disappear with fiber treatment. It is the same for intermolecular hydrogen bands between cellulosic chains that present a decrease in both intensity and frequency. The two intramolecular hydrogen bands increase in intensity but exhibit different behaviors regarding the calculated energy: while the band at 3268 cm−1 is weakened and shifted to higher wavenumbers, that at 3338 cm−1 keeps the same peak position and energy.

There are many properties of the carpets such as luster, resilience, abrasion resistance which define the performance of hand-made carpet. These properties are influenced by carpet construction parameters and the raw material parameters (pile yarn characterizations). In this present paper, the influence of linear density of knot thread, pile height and the tension of the warp threads on the carpet resilience is investigated using a fuzzy expert system. The prediction of these models was evaluated using the root mean square error (RMSE), the mean relative absolute error (MRAE) and the correlation coefficient (R-value). These models obtained are significant and they can be used to define the durability of Tunisian hand-made carpet.

White wool occupies a very important place on the commercial market because it can be dyed in any color. In nature, however, wool fibers are usually found white but may be black; sometimes they are shades of white, yellow and, in some cases, brown or black, because of their natural pigment, melanin. In this study, copper sulfate and iron sulfate were used in the treatment of Tunisian wool (Black of Thibar) to evaluate their effectiveness in terms of color removal and minimal damage to wool fibers. Once the most effective mordant agent was chosen, the effects of hydrogen peroxide concentration, bleaching time, and temperature on the wool sample bleaching were studied. The results showed that iron sulfate is the most effective mordant agent in the bleaching process of pigmented wool for a good base of dyeing and finishing, since it guarantees the best optical properties with the minimum damage to the fibers. In addition, it was found that the optimal bleaching was achieved for a hydrogen peroxide concentration of 87.5 mL/L, a treatment time of about 90 min and a temperature of about 60°C.

International audience; In order to improve healthcare of injured people, deacetylated acemannan extracted from Aloe vera leaves, having high inhibitory properties, was used as an antimicrobial finish on traditional cotton items. Response surface methodology was employed to define quadratic relationships between the polysaccharide grafting degree and the treatment process properties. An optimized modification process, offering the highest funtionalization degree, is obtained. The cellulosic fiber morphology and roughness modifications induced by polymer grafting are revealed using Atomic Force Microscopy and Scanning Electron Microscopy. Infra Red spectroscopy was used to confirm the grafting effectiveness. Thermogravimetric Analysis and Differential Scanning Calorimeter were further employed to confirm chemical modification. Considering the potential use of this new biomaterial, original properties were also studied. Finishing treatment seems to preserve mechanical properties, and hydrophilicity of the cellulosic substrate. MTT assay were done in HepG2 cells to ensure that the obtained dressings are non-toxic. The biomaterial showed high biocompatibility and promoted cell viability. Antimicrobial studies showed that grafting treatment conserved polymer antibacterial activity. Optimized cotton dressings exhibited a significant inhibitory effect against Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli bacteria, killed respectively at 70.2% and 72.4%.

The quality of the denim fabric is a phenomenon that requires successfully meeting several properties at the same time among these properties are air permeability and water resistance Very little study has been carried out on multiple properties and parameters at the same time In this study we used Response Surface Methodology to optimize levels of thickness and optimum and levels of fabric mass per unit area which simultaneously maximize water resistance and minimize air permeability of denim cotton fabric A response surface methodology was employed for data analysis experimental results of denim cotton fabric A set of expressions expressed by contours plot was obtained for predicting the water resistance and air permeability performances of denim fabric quality as a function of fabric thickness and fabric mass per unit area Those fabric rsquo figures were optimized by first graphical approach based on overlaid contour plot and second by the desirability function approach to achieve maximum water resistance and minimum air permeability simultaneously

This paper deals with the characterization of some composite materials developed using rubber matrix reinforced with short Alfa fibers. This work aims at studying the performance of Alfa-rubber composites using mechanical and physical characterizations. We opted for the study of the behavior in tension and compression of our samples as part of the mechanical characterization. The results we get show that these natural fibers contribute enormously to the composite properties such as breaking strength and elongation at break. Indeed, substantial increased values (50.82% and 54.38%) of the breaking strength and elongation at break are gained. However, based on the obtained findings, decreasing the filler loading value widely improves the developed material performance. On the other hand, compression test showed that the developed material is not affected by this constraint (compression stress). The results showed that the material is well designed to be resistant to compression strain. When we compared the three types of rubber particle used, we deduced that the developed composite samples using smaller particles powder like (type B) present better appearance and better behavior than those obtained using granulated particles (types A and C).

Wrinkle recovery behaviour is an important property of fabrics for apparel applications. Fifty fabrics of a variety of constructions have been objectively evaluated in order to study the wrinkle recovery after a deformation. The wrinkle recovery behaviour was studied based on energy modelling. To study their wrinkle recovery properties, fabrics are modelled with the energy method. It is shown that the more the energy dissipation is low, the more fabric is able to recover to its initial state and then the more residual deformation is low. Thus, the energy dissipation can be used to estimate the ability of the fabric to recover to its initial state. In this paper, we also studied the effect of the fatigue test after the repeated wrinkling. Further, the increase of the fatigue cycle number after repeated wrinkling resulted in an increase of the residual deformation and permanent deformation. This method allows us for better approximation of the real behaviour of multidirectional wrinkling of clothing during ...

Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to optimize the frictional input parameters related to the yarn and woven fabric samples. Indeed, using metaheuristic techniques for optimization, it helps to attempt the best quality appearance of garment, by analysing their effects and relationships with the bagging behaviour of tested fabrics before and after bagging test. Using metaheuristic techniques allows us to select widely the minimal residual bagging properties and the optimized inputs to adjust them for this goal. Design/methodology/approach – The metaheuristic methods were applied and discussed. Hence, the genetic algorithms (GA) and ant colony optimization (ACO) technique results are compared to select the best residual bagging behaviour and their correspondent parameters. The statistical analysis steps were implemented using Taguchi experimental design thanks to Minitab 14 software. The modelling methodology analysed in this paper deals with the linear regression method application and analysis to prepare to the optimization steps. Findings – The regression results are essential for evaluate the effectiveness of the relationships founded between inputs and outputs parameters and for their optimizations in the design of interest. Practical implications – This study is interesting for denim consumers and industrial applications during long and repetitive uses. Undoubtedly, the denim garments remained the largely used and consumed, hence, this particularity proves the necessity to study it in order to optimize the bagging phenomenon which occurs as function of number of uses. Although it is fashionable to have bagging, the denim fabric remains, in contrast with the worsted ones, the most popular fabric to produce garments. Moreover, regarding this characteristic, the large uses and the acceptable value of denim fabrics, their aesthetic appearance behaviour due to bagging phenomenon can be analysed and optimized accurately because compared to worsted fabrics, they have a high value and the repetitive tests to investigate widely bagged zones can fall the industrial. The paper has practical implications in the clothing appearance and other textile industry, especially in the weaving process when friction forms (yarn-to-yarn, yarn-to-metal frictions) and stresses are drastic. This can help to understand why residual bagging behaviour remained after garment uses due to the internal stress and excessive extensions. Originality/value – Until now, there is no work dealing with the optimization of bagging behaviour using metaheuristic techniques. Indeed, all investigations are focused on the evaluation and theoretical modelling based on the multi linear regression analysis. It is notable that the metaheuristic techniques such as ACO and GA are used to optimize some difficult problems but not yet in the textile field excepting some studies using the GA. Besides, there is no sufficiently information to evaluate, predict and optimize the effect of the yarn-to-yarn friction as well as metal-to-yarn one on the residual bagging behaviour. Several and different denim fabrics within their different characteristics are investigated to widen the experimental analysis and thus to generalize the results in the experimental design of interest.

A novel approach of physical feature selection is proposed based on the techniques of fuzzy logic and ordered weighted averaging (OWA) operators. The selection is considered as a Multi Expert-Multi Criteria Decision Making (ME-MCDM) problem, since this approach ranks physical features according to their relevancy to multiple experts’ perception. In this study, objective and subjective evaluations of stonewashed denim fabric were made to predict fabric handle in a simple way. The aim of this research was to select the most relevant objective parameters predicting a given subjective one with a minimum number of laboratory measurements. For this purpose, a wide database of treated denim fabrics was prepared by making subjective and objective evaluations. Subjective assessment was evaluated by two different panels. The first one consists of sensorial experts who classify the fabric samples according to their sensitivity to a predefined sensory descriptor. The second one is a panel that masters professional knowledge only in mechanical features of fabrics. The objective measurements were evaluated mainly by means of the Kawabata Evaluating system for fabrics (KES-F), Fabric Assurance by Simple Testing (FAST) system and Universal Surface Tester (UST). The soft computing modelling demonstrate that the fuzzy sensitivity and OWA operators are capable of selecting the most relevant objective parameters notably by introducing a smart percolation method yielding automatically the set of the most objective parameters.

This work reports waterproof breathable coated double-sided knitting consisting of cotton and polyester fibres. Two kinds of fabrics (F1 and F2) were tested in this study. They were treated with water-repellent chemicals finishing carried out on the polyester side. The main goal of this paper is to study the application and behaviour of double-sided knitting and the finishing with new chemical product to improve comfort. Optimisation of waterproof breathable property of samples was investigated using factorial experimental design. The combined effects of parameters which can affect treatment on water repellency, air permeability and porosity were then studied and the optimum conditions were determined. Waterproof breathable double-sided knitting was able to be generated. These fabrics are supposed to be used as the shoes lining.

The principal purpose of this work is to develop a new approach to model and predict the fabric shrinkage in denim garments after finishing treatments. This study was carried out on denim blue jeans fabrics of different structures which are transformed into pants. The shrinkage 056 measured at different parts of the pant (waist, hem and knees). A factorial design analysis with 960 experiments conducted under industrial conditions and repeated three times was applied to study the garment shrinkage behaviour. A standard method was modified to characterize the potential shrinkage of the denim garment fabrics and to model their intrinsic shrinkage parameters. Relevant models calculating the fabric shrinkage of the denim garments in the different treated zones of pants according to the finishing treatments are identified and validated in three industrial orders. The obtained results, statistically and industrially validated, show very well the accuracy of the established shrinkage prediction models and their r...

Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to predict the bagging recovery velocity of bagged denim fabric samples. Hence, the authors attempt to carry out a model highlighting and explaining the impact of some considered frictional parameters such as yarn-to-yarn friction expressed as weft yarn rigidity parameter and metal-to-fabric friction expressed by mean frictional coefficient parameter. Design/methodology/approach – The statistical analysis steps were implemented using experimental design type Taguchi and thanks to Minitab 14 software. The modeling methodology analyzed in this paper deals with the linear regression method application and analysis. The predictive power of the obtained model is evaluated by comparing the estimated recovery velocity (theoretical) with the actual values. These comparative values are measured after the bagging test and during the relaxation time of the denim fabric samples. The regression coefficient (R2) values as well as the statistical tests (p-values, analysis of variance results) were investigated, discussed and analyzed to improve the findings. Findings – According to the statistical results given by Taguchi analysis findings, the regression model is very significant (p-regression=0.04 and R2=97 percent) which explains widely the possibility of bagging behavior prediction in the studied experimental field of interest. Indeed the variation (the increase or the decrease) of the frictional input parameters values caused, as a result, the variation of the whole appearance and the shape of the bagged zone expressed by the residual bagging height variations. In spite of their similar compositions and characteristics, the woven bagged fabrics presented differently behaviors in terms of the bagging recovery and kinetic velocity values. After relaxation times which are not the same and relative to different fabric samples, it may be concluded that bagging behavior remained function of the internal frictional stresses, especially yarn-to-yarn and metal-to-fabric ones. Practical implications – This study is interesting for denim consumers and industrial applications during long and repetitive uses. The paper has practical implications in the clothing appearance and other textile industry, especially in the weaving process when friction forms (yarn-to-yarn, yarn-to-metal frictions) and stresses are drastic. In fact, in terms of the importance to the industrial producers of the materials it helps to provide a first step in an attempt for a better understanding of the stresses involved in bagging of woven fabrics in general and denim fabrics particularly due to important frictional input contributions. They provide the basis for the development of fabrics that can withstand bagging problems. This research may also put forward improved methods of measuring bagginess as function of frictional parameters in order to optimize (minimize) their effects on the bagging behaviors before and after repetitive uses. These experimental, statistical and theoretical findings may be used to predict bagginess of fabrics based on their properties and prevent industrial from the most significant and influential inputs which should be adjusted accurately. This work allows industrial, also, to make more attention, in case of a high-quality level to ensure, to optimize and review yarn behaviors used to produce fabrics against drastic solicitations and minimize frictions forms during experimental spinning and weaving processes. Originality/value – Until now, there is no sufficient information to evaluate and predict the effect of the yarn-to-yarn friction as well as metal-to-yarn one on the residual bagging behavior. Besides, there is no work that deals with the kinetic recovery evolution as function of frictional inputs to explain accurately the bagging behavior evolution during relaxation time. Therefore, this present work is to investigate and model the residual bagging recovery velocity after bagging test as function of the frictional input parameters of both denim yarn and fabric samples (expressed by the friction caused due to contact from conformator to fabric).

In this work, we attempt to analyze the hydrogen bond network of cellulose by comparing the 2nd derivative infrared spectra of alfa fiber treated with different concentrations of thymol. It was proved, from this study, that the 2nd derivative infrared spectrum is a useful method for identifying the least changes incurred in the cellulosic supramolecular structure. It can be considered as an effective method to gain further insight on OH bond system of cellulosic materials and to clarify some grey areas in terms of infrared band assignment. The careful analysis of 2nd derivative infrared spectra of untreated and thymol treated alfa fibers revealed an increase in band intensity related to both intermolecular and intramolecular hydrogen bonds and a decrease in bands related to free hydroxyl groups.

The twist angle is an important parameter of the yarn which determines the degree and shape of the filament’s deformation produced along their length. So, in this paper, a 3D numerical modelling of filaments assemblies has been developed. The twist behaviour of the multifilament was simulated using ABAQUS finite element package by modelling the yarns as 3D continuum elements. The distribution of filament helix angle according to the radial position of the yarn is evaluated. Results show that the helix angle draws near zero in the yarn axis but does not fall to zero in presence of migration, and becomes bigger as the filaments are positioned on the surface. Moreover, the twist angle is calculated for different twist level which proves that twist angle is highly affected by torsion level. The target of the research was to establish a relationship between twist angle, twist value and yarn linear density for a series of models varying in the filament radius, twist value and filament number.

This paper reports the functionalisation of a poly(ethylene terephthalate) (PET) surface using an irradiation method under a stream of reactive gas (chlorine). The polyester textile fabric was directly exposed to UVC irradiation (wavelength of approximately 254 nm) under a continuous flow of gaseous chlorine in a solvent-free process. Different amounts of chlorine atoms were fixed to the surface of the fabric based on the experimental conditions. The amount of chlorine on the treated fabric was as much as 4.6% (w/w, oven dried material). First, the modified and virgin fabrics were thoroughly extracted to remove the physically adsorbed molecules. Then, these fabrics were characterised via several techniques including SEM, FTIR-ATR, DSC and XPS. The grafting was confirmed by analysing the fabric surface using MEB (EDS) and XPS (the presence of chlorine atoms). However, the bulk properties remained unchanged. The modified surface was more easily dyed with a cationic dye.

Natural fibers are nowadays increasingly employed for making nonwoven, replacing the synthetic materials due to economic and environmental considerations. In this setting, we examine the use of Alfa fibers in nonwoven. Extracted Alfa fibers present satisfying mechanical properties that allow them to be used to produce nonwoven textiles materials. Therefore, Alfa fibers are, mainly, blended with cotton, polyester, Tencel and wool. Webs are prepared using cotton or wool cards in regular width. The nonwoven consolidation is made by needle-punching method. The weight, thickness, air permeability, adiathermic capacity and tensile properties are investigated. The results exhibit that the air permeability increases with the increase of Alfa fibers ratio for the nonwoven Alfa blended with short fibers. It decreases in case of Alfa/Wool blend. We can conclude also that the nonwoven Alfa blended with wool fibers have the highest properties values for all the Alfa fibers blends. Data also revealed that the tensile properties are reduced with the increment of Alfa fibers ratio.

A new fatigue tester simulating the movement of the knee is designed and developed in this paper. This fatigue tester allows combining simultaneously cyclic solicitations: bending–traction, twist and abrasion on prostheses ligament. The fatigue test of braided ligaments made of polypropylene was performed in a liquid environment at 37 °C. The combined cyclic solicitations generated an increase of breaking load and stiffness and a decrease of ultimate strain of the braided structure. The new behavior of tested ligaments and the effect of fatigue test parameters on braided ligaments mechanical performances were discussed.

This study aims to evaluate the fluorescence property of wool fabric dyed with indicaxanthin, natural dye. Fluorescence measurements have been developed on wool samples before and after dyeing. The emission spectrum of the undyed wool fabric does not illustrate any peak and in the contrary, dyed wool sample present interesting photoluminescence property and the highest value was recorded at 576 nm. Aging behavior upon exposure to light irradiation and upon washing was studied and it has been proved that samples keep interesting fluorescence properties.

The dyeing of modified acrylic fabrics using indicaxanthin as a natural dye isolated from fruits of Opuntia ficus-indica has been studied in both conventional and ultrasonic techniques. Factors affecting the dyeing properties such as pH values, salt concentration, temperature, duration of dyeing bath, and ultrasonic power were studied. The optimal conditions for dyeing with indicaxanthin dye were carried out at 80 °C for 30 min at pH 3. Sonicator dyeing showed marked improvement in dye uptake. The results of fastness properties of the dyed fabrics were fair to good. Dyeing kinetics using conventional and ultrasonic conditions was compared. Color strength values obtained were found to be higher with ultrasonic than with conventional heating. Dyeing kinetics of modified acrylic fiber with indicaxanthin dye using conventional and ultrasonic conditions were compared. The values of dyeing rate constant, half-time of dyeing and standard affinity and ultrasonic efficiency have been calculated and discussed.

The possibility to reuse residual dye baths for wool dyeing with acid and reactive dyestuffs (Blue Marine Irganol 2RLS and Blue Lanasyn BLS, respectively) was investigated in this study. The residual dye baths were reconstituted and reused 20 consecutive times for dye concentration of 1%. A series of colorimetric measurements were carried out for the obtained samples in order to evaluate the conformity and the uniformity of their color as well as their dyeing fastness. In particular, we were interested in wash, rubbing, and light fastness. The obtained results for these three criteria of evaluation were very satisfactory: (1) color conformity (expressed in Colour Measurement Committee (2:1) and CIEDE2000 color differences) lower than the textile threshold of 1, (2) good evenness, and (3) color fastness not deteriorated in spite of the multiple reuses of dye baths. In this paper, the feasibility and efficiency of this technique was proved to considerably reduce water, dyes, and auxiliary quantities without...

The performance prediction of hygienic products can be a major advantage for manufacturers. Among the interesting performances to be expected, we find the absorption capacity. This is a parameter governed by the composition of the absorbent core, particularly the fibrous component and the characteristics of the superabsorbent polymer (SAP). Thus, various theoretical models have been established to predict the absorption capacity. All these models have taken into account the nature of the fibrous support and the ratio of superabsorbent polymer. Certainly, other factors, less obvious in their modelling, are involved in determining the performance such as the homogeneity of the mixture formed by the fluff and SAP, the distribution of polymer particles in the entire structure, the porous structure, the shape of the capillary, the nature of the nonwoven webs used, etc. Various theoretical models are proposed here to describe the absorption capacity and we will outline the model which best describes this performance. The experimental test results are discussed to verify if the theoretical model selected can be confirmed.