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Steroid 5 alpha-reductase catalyzes the reduction of testosterone (T) into the very potent androgen dihydrotestosterone (DHT). The different tissue expression patterns of the two isoforms of 5 alpha-reductase, namely type-1 and type-2 5 alpha-reductase (5 alpha-R1 and 5 alpha-R2, respectively), have prompted studies directed towards the synthesis of selective 5 alpha-R1 or 5 alpha-R2 inhibitors. In this present work, we have performed a structure/activity study on the inhibitory potential of indole carboxylic acids against hair follicle 5 alpha-reductase activity. We have demonstrated that this class of molecules were potent inhibitors of either 5 alpha-R1 or 5 alpha-R2 or both depending on (i) substituents in positions 4, 5 or 6 and (ii) the presence of a free carboxylic group. We have also found that only 5 alpha-R1 or 5 alpha-R1/R2 inhibitors were able to inhibit 5 alpha-reductase activity in plucked hairs from female volunteers or in freshly isolated female hair follicles, selective 5 alpha-R2 inhibitors being inactive.

Normal human melanocytes were amplified and cultured in a new defined culture medium without phorbol esters or cholera toxin. The medium decreased considerably the doubling time and increased the possible passage number. Melanocytes were co-seeded with normal human keratinocytes into 24 well culture dishes to screen potentially active modulators of melanogenesis. For the assay, the co-cultures were exposed to the compounds under investigation in the presence of 14C-thiouracil and 3H-leucine. Control cultures contain L-tyrosine or kojic acid, modulators which served as internal calibration standards. Changes in the rate of melanin synthesis were measured on the basis of 14C-thiouracil incorporation into newly synthesized melanin. A reduction or increase in 3H-leucine incorporation was taken as an indication of cytotoxicity or induction of proliferation, respectively. The NHK-NHM co-culture screening assay provides a useful tool to compare the activity of known modulators of melanogenesis and to perform structure-activity studies with newly identified modulators to improve their activity. The efficacy of particularly interesting new compounds was further evaluated on reconstructed pigmented epidermis after repeated topical application. The same model was used to assess the anti-pigmenting effect of sunscreens on UV-induced pigmentation. Integration of melanocytes from different ethnic origin resulted in pigmented epidermis reflecting different skin phenotypes, Caucasian, Asian and African.

During oxidative stress, iron traces are supposed to be released from normal storage sites and to catalyse oxidative damage by Fenton-type reactions. This type of damage is difficult to prevent in vivo except by the use of strong iron chelators such as deferoxamine (affinity constant for Fe(III): log K = 30.8). However, strong iron chelating agents are also suspected to mobilize iron from various storage and transport proteins thereby leading to toxic effects. In contrast, N,N'-bis-dibenzyl ethylenediaminediacetic acid (DBED) is an iron chelator with relatively low affinity for iron (affinity constant for Fe(III): log K < 15). In the present paper, we show that, in situations mimicking oxidative stress in vitro, DBED is site-specifically oxidized into new species with strong iron binding capacity. Indeed, in the presence of ascorbate as a reductant, the iron chelate of DBED reacts with H2O2 in aqueous solution to yield a purple chromophore with minor release of free HO. in the medium, as measured by aromatic hydroxylation assay. The formation of these purple species is not suppressed by the presence of HO. scavengers at high concentration. The visible spectrum of these species is consistent with a charge transfer band from a phenolate ligand to iron. N-2-hydroxybenzyl N'-benzyl ethylenediaminediacetic acid (HBBED) was identified in the medium as one of the oxidation products of DBED. Therefore, these results suggest that the iron chelate of DBED undergoes an intramolecular aromatic hydroxylation by HO. leading to 2-OH derivatives and hence that DBED is a site-specific HO. scavenger. Moreover, since the measured affinity for Fe(III) of HBBED (log K = 28) is at least 13 orders of magnitude higher than that of DBED and since ferric HBBED chelate is not a catalyst of Fenton chemistry, DBED may be looked as an "oxidative stress activatable" iron chelator, e.g. which increase in affinity for iron is triggered in the presence of H2O2 and an electron donor. Therefore it is proposed that DBED and related derivatives may be interesting as protective compounds against oxygen radicals toxicity, especially for chronic use.

Hexanal phenylhydrazone (1; 70:30 E:Z mixture) at micromolar concentration irreversibly inactivates soybean lipoxygenase 1 (L-1) in the presence of dioxygen. L-1 catalyzes the oxidation of 1 into its alpha-azo hydroperoxide 2 [C5H11CH(OOH)N = NC6H5]. 2 is an efficient inactivator of L-1. The aerobic reaction between 1 and L-1 follows a branched pathway leading to the release of 2 into the medium or to L-1 inactivation. The respective parameters corresponding to this inactivation by the (E)-1 and (Z)-1 isomers are Ki = 0.25 and 0.40 microM and kinact = 0.8 and 2.1 min-1. Linoleic acid protection agrees with a mechanism-based inactivation process. The oxidation of a minimum of 13 +/- 3 molar equiv of 1 is required for complete L-1 inactivation, but up to 70 equiv is necessary in the presence of a very large excess of 1. The inactivation is actually the result of two pathways: one is due to a reaction of 2 as soon as it is formed at the active site (20%); the other is due to 2 released into the medium and coming back to the active site (80%). The inactivation is accompanied by the oxidation of 1.8 +/- 0.8 methionine residues of the protein into the corresponding sulfoxide. The inactivated L-1 is electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) silent with an effective magnetic moment of mu = 5.0 +/- 0.1 Bohr magnetons corresponding to an S = 2 spin state. An inactivation mechanism is proposed on the basis of EPR and magnetic susceptibility data obtained from the anaerobic and aerobic reactions of L-1 with 1 and 2.