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Two dams on the Elwha River, Washington State, USA trapped over 20 million m 3 of mud, sand, and gravel since 1927, reducing downstream sediment fluxes and contributing to erosion of the river's coastal delta. The removal of the Elwha and Glines Canyon dams, initiated in September 2011, induced massive increases in river sediment supply and provided an unprecedented opportunity to examine the geomorphic response of a coastal delta to these increases. Detailed measurements of beach topography and nearshore bathymetry show that ~ 2.5 million m 3 of sediment was deposited during the first two years of dam removal, which is ~ 100 times greater than deposition rates measured prior to dam removal. The majority of the deposit was located in the intertidal and shallow subtidal region immediately offshore of the river mouth and was composed of sand and gravel. Additional areas of deposition include a secondary sandy deposit to the east of the river mouth and a muddy deposit west of the mouth. A comparison with fluvial sediment fluxes suggests that ~ 70% of the sand and gravel and ~ 6% of the mud supplied by the river was found in the survey area (within about 2 km of the mouth). A hydrodynamic and sediment transport model, validated with in-situ measurements, shows that tidal currents interacting with the larger relict submarine delta help disperse fine sediment large distances east and west of the river mouth. The model also suggests that waves and currents erode the primary deposit located near the river mouth and transport sandy sediment eastward to form the secondary deposit. Though most of the substrate of the larger relict submarine delta was unchanged during the first two years of dam removal, portions of the seafloor close to the river mouth became finer, modifying habitats for biological communities. These results show that river restoration, like natural changes in river sediment supply, can result in rapid and substantial coastal geomorphological responses. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Abstract: While bulk measures of the onshore impact of a tsunami, including the maximum run-up elevation and inundation distance, are important for hazard planning, the temporal evolution of the onshore flow dynamics likely controls the extent of the onshore destruction and the erosion and deposition of sediment that occurs. However, the time-varying dynamics of actual tsunamis are even more difficult to measure in situ than the bulk parameters. Here, a numerical model based on the non-linear shallow water equations is used to examine the effects variations in the wave characteristics, bed slope, and bottom roughness have on the temporal evolution of the onshore flow. Model results indicate that the onshore flow dynamics vary significantly over the parameter space examined. For example, the flow dynamics over steep, smooth morphologies tend to be temporally symmetric, with similar magnitude velocities generated during the run-up and run-down phases of inundation. Conversely, on shallow, rough onshore topographies the flow dynamics tend to be temporally skewed toward the run-down phase of inundation, with the magnitude of the flow velocities during run-up and run-down being significantly different. Furthermore, for near-breaking tsunami waves inundating over steep topography, the flow velocity tends to accelerate almost instantaneously to a maximum and then decrease monotonically. Conversely, when very long waves inundate over shallow topography, the flow accelerates more slowly and can remain steady for a period of time before beginning to decelerate. These results indicate that a single set of assumptions concerning the onshore flow dynamics cannot be applied to all tsunamis, and site specific analyses may be required. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: Geological effects of the 2010 Chilean tsunami were quantified at five near-field sites along a 200km segment of coast located between the two zones of predominant fault slip. Field measurements, including topography, flow depths, flow directions, scour depths, and deposit thicknesses, provide insights into the processes and morphological changes associated with tsunami inundation and return flow. The superposition of downed trees recorded multiple strong onshore and alongshore flows that arrived at different times and from different directions. The most likely explanation for the diverse directions and timing of coastal inundation combines (1) variable fault rupture and asymmetrical slip displacement of the seafloor away from the epicenter with (2) resonant amplification of coastal edge waves. Other possible contributing factors include local interaction of incoming flow and return flow and delayed wave reflection by the southern coast of Peru. Coastal embayments amplified the maximum inundation distances at two sites (2.4 and 2.6km, respectively). Tsunami vertical erosion included scour and planation of the land surface, inundation scour around the bases of trees, and channel incision from return flow. Sheets and wedges of sand and gravel were deposited at all of the sites. Locally derived boulders up to 1m in diameter were transported as much as 400m inland and deposited as fields of dispersed clasts. The presence of lobate bedforms at one site indicates that at least some of the late-stage sediment transport was as bed load and not as suspended load. Most of the tsunami deposits were less than 25cm thick. Exceptions were thick deposits near open-ocean river mouths where sediment supply was abundant. Human alterations of the land surface at most of the sites provided opportunities to examine some tsunami effects that otherwise would not have been possible, including flow histories, boulder dispersion, and vegetation controls on deposit thickness. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: Field observations and numerical simulations are used to explore tsunami inundation and sediment transport in an embayment (Fagafue Bay) on the north side of Tutuila, American Samoa during the 29 September 2009 South Pacific tsunami. Field observations of the nearshore bathymetry and topography, tsunami flow depth and sediment deposition, and extent of movable sandy sediment remaining on the beach were collected during two field surveys approximately two and five weeks after the tsunami. Onshore measurements of flow depth at forty-eight locations indicate the wave inundated almost 250m onshore with a depth exceeding 7m locally. The tsunami deposited patchy areas of sediment up to 0.2m thick interspersed with a thin dusting (<0.01m) of sandy sediment throughout most of the inundated area. A numerical simulation based on the best available topography and bathymetry and a simplified offshore wave forcing is calibrated with the onshore flow observations. The calibrated model is used to simulate tsunami-induced sediment transport within and onshore of both the actual embayment and several idealized embayments. The simulations show that the onshore deposition of sediment can be affected by more than 50% by both the amount of sediment available for transport and the steepness of the onshore topography, suggesting these effects may need to be considered when interpreting tsunami deposits. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: A numerical model of tsunami inundation, Delft3D, which has been validated for the 29 September 2009 tsunami in Tutuila, American Samoa, is used to better understand the impact of fringing coral reefs and embayments on tsunami wave heights, inundation distances, and velocities. The inundation model is used to explore the general conditions under which fringing reefs act as coastal buffers against incoming tsunamis. Of particular interest is the response of tsunamis to reefs of varying widths, depths, and roughness, as well as the effects of channels incised in the reef and the focusing effect of embayments. Model simulations for conditions similar to Tutuila, yet simplified to be uniform in the alongshore, suggest that for narrow reefs, less than about 200m wide, the shoaling owing to shallow water depths over the fringing reef dominates, inducing greater wave heights onshore under some conditions and farther inundation inland. As the reef width increases, wave dissipation through bottom friction begins to dominate and the reef causes the tsunami wave heights to decrease and the tsunami to inundate less far inland. A sensitivity analysis suggests that coral reef roughness is important in determining the manner in which a fringing reef affects tsunami inundation. Smooth reefs are more likely to increase the onshore velocity within the tsunami compared to rough reefs. A larger velocity will likely result in an increased impact of the tsunami on structures and buildings. Simulations developed to explore 2D coastal morphology show that incised channels similar to those found around Tutuila, as well as coastal embayments, also affect tsunami inundation, allowing larger waves to penetrate farther inland. The largest effect is found for channels located within embayments, and for embayments that narrow landward. These simulations suggest that embayments that narrow landward, such as Fagafue Bay on the north side of Tutuila, and that have an incised deep channel, can cause a significant increase in tsunami wave heights, inundation distances, and velocities. Wide embayments, similar in size to Massacre Bay, induce some tsunami amplification, but not as much as for the narrowing embayment. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: This overview introduces large-scale coastal change in the Columbia River littoral cell (CRLC). Covering 165km of the southwest Washington and northwest Oregon coasts, the littoral cell is made up of wide low-sloping dissipative beaches, broad coastal dunes and barrier plains, three large estuaries, and is bounded by rocky headlands. The beaches and inner shelf are composed of fine-grained sand from the Columbia River and are exposed to a high-energy winter wave climate. Throughout the Holocene, the CRLC has undergone large fluctuations in shoreline change trends, responding to a variety of coastal change drivers, including changing rates of sea-level rise, infrequent, yet catastrophic, co-seismic subsidence events, a large regional sediment supply, inter-annual climatic fluctuations (El Niño cycles), seasonally varying wave climate, and numerous anthropogenic influences. Human influences on the CRLC include construction of over 200 dams in the Columbia River drainage basin, dredging of navigation channels removing sand to upland sites and offshore deep-water sites, and construction of large inlet jetties at the entrances to the Columbia River and Grays Harbor. The construction of these massive entrance jetties at the end of the 19th century has been the dominant driver of coastal change through most of the littoral cell over the last hundred years. Presently, some beaches in the littoral cell are eroding in response to nearshore sediment deficits resulting from a) ebb-jets of the confined entrances pushing the previously large, shallow ebb-tidal deltas offshore into deeper water, and b) waves dispersing the nearshore delta flanks initially onshore and then alongshore away from the jetties. This overview describes 1) the motivation for developing a system-wide understanding of sediment dynamics in the littoral cell at multiple time and space scales, 2) the formation and approach of the Southwest Washington Coastal Erosion Study, and 3) an introduction to the papers in this special issue. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: Modern subaerial sand beds deposited by major tsunamis and hurricanes were compared at trench, transect, and sub-regional spatial scales to evaluate which attributes are most useful for distinguishing the two types of deposits. Physical criteria that may be diagnostic include: sediment composition, textures and grading, types and organization of stratification, thickness, geometry, and landscape conformity. Published reports of Pacific Ocean tsunami impacts and our field observations suggest that sandy tsunami deposits are generally <25 cm thick, extend hundreds of meters inland from the beach, and fill microtopography but generally conform to the antecedent landscape. They commonly are a single homogeneous bed that is normally graded overall, or that consists of only a few thin layers. Mud intraclasts and mud laminae within the deposit are strong evidence of tsunami deposition. Twig orientation or other indicators of return flow during bed aggradation are also diagnostic of tsunami deposits. Sandy storm deposits tend to be >30 cm thick, generally extend <300 m from the beach, and will not advance beyond the antecedent macrotopography they are able to fill. They typically are composed of numerous subhorizontal planar laminae organized into multiple laminasets that are normally or inversely graded, they do not contain internal mud laminae and rarely contain mud intraclasts. Application of these distinguishing characteristics depends on their preservation potential and any deposit modifications that accompany burial. The distinctions between tsunami and storm deposits are related to differences in the hydrodynamics and sediment-sorting processes during transport. Tsunami deposition results from a few high-velocity, long-period waves that entrain sediment from the shoreface, beach, and landward erosion zone. Tsunamis can have flow depths greater than 10 m, transport sediment primarily in suspension, and distribute the load over a broad region where sediment falls out of suspension when flow decelerates. In contrast, storm inundation generally is gradual and prolonged, consisting of many waves that erode beaches and dunes with no significant overland return flow until after the main flooding. Storm flow depths are commonly <3 m, sediment is transported primarily as bed load by traction, and the load is deposited within a zone relatively close to the beach. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

— This paper describes erosion and sedimentation associated with the 17 July 1998 Papua New Guinea tsunami. Observed within two months of the tsunami, distinct deposits of a layer averaging 8-cm thick of gray sand rested on a brown muddy soil. In most cases the sand is normally graded, with more coarse sand near the base and fine sand at the top. In some cases the deposit contains rip-up clasts of muddy soil and in some locations it has a mud cap. Detailed measurements of coastal topography, tsunami flow height and direction indicators, and deposit thickness were made in the field, and samples of the deposit were collected for grain-size analysis in the laboratory. Four shore-normal transects were examined in detail to assess the shore-normal and along shore distribution of the tsunami deposit. Near the shoreline, the tsunami eroded approximately 10–25 cm of sand from the beach and berm. The sandy layer deposited by the tsunami began 50–150 m inland from the shoreline and extended across the coastal plain to within about 40 m of the limit of inundation; a total distance of up to 750 m from the beach. As much as 2/3 of the sand in the deposit originated from offshore. Across most of the coastal plain the deposit thickness and mean grain size varied little. In the along-shore direction the deposit thickness varied with the tsunami wave height; both largest near the entrance to Sissano Lagoon. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Findings from nearly two decades of research focused on the Columbia River littoral cell (CRLC), a set of rapidly prograding coastal barriers and strand-plains in the U.S. Pacific Northwest, are synthesized to investigate the morphodynamics associated with prograding beaches. Due to a large sediment supply from the Columbia River, the CRLC is the only extensive stretch of shoreline on the U.S. west coast to have advanced significantly seaward during the late Holocene. Since the last Cascadia Subduction Zone (CSZ) earthquake in 1700, with associated co-seismic subsidence and tsunami, much of the CRLC has prograded hundreds of meters. However, the rates of progradation, and the processes most responsible for sediment accumulation, vary depending on time scale and the morphological unit in question. Remarkably, the 20th and early 21st century shoreline change rates were more than double the late prehistoric rates that include recovery from the last major CSZ event, most likely due to an increase in sediment supply resulting from inlet jetty construction. In some locations detailed beach morphology monitoring reveals that at interannual- to decadal-scale the upper shoreface aggraded about 2 cm/yr, subtidal sandbars migrated offshore and decayed while intertidal bars migrated onshore and welded to the shoreline, the shoreline prograded about 4 m/yr, and 1 to 2 new foredune ridges were generated. A detailed meso-scale sediment budget analysis in one location within the littoral cell shows that approximately 100 m 3 /m/yr accumulated between − 12 m (seaward limit of data) and + 9 m (crest of landward-most foredune). Gradients in alongshore sediment transport, net onshore-directed cross-shore sediment transport within the surf zone, and cross-shore feeding from a shoreface out of equilibrium with forcing conditions are each partially responsible for the significant rates of sediment supplied to the beaches and dunes of the CRLC during the observational period. Direct observations of beach progradation at seasonal- to decadal-scale are put in context of measured or inferred changes over time scales of decades to centuries. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Abstract: While the destruction caused by a tsunami can vary significantly owing to near- and onshore controls, we have only a limited quantitative understanding of how different local parameters influence the onshore response of tsunamis. Here, a numerical model based on the non-linear shallow water equations is first shown to agree well with analytical expressions developed for periodic long waves inundating over planar slopes. More than 13,000 simulations are then conducted to examine the effects variations in the wave characteristics, bed slopes, and bottom roughness have on maximum tsunami run-up and water velocity at the still water shoreline. While deviations from periodic waves and planar slopes affect the onshore dynamics, the details of these effects depend on a combination of factors. In general, the effects differ for breaking and non-breaking waves, and are related to the relative shift of the waves along the breaking–non-breaking wave continuum. Variations that shift waves toward increased breaking, such as steeper wave fronts, tend to increase the onshore impact of non-breaking waves, but decrease the impact of already breaking waves. The onshore impact of a tsunami composed of multiple waves can be different from that of a single wave tsunami, with the largest difference occurring on long, shallow onshore topographies. These results demonstrate that the onshore response of a tsunami is complex, and that using analytical expressions derived from simplified conditions may not always be appropriate. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Model predictions from a numerical model, Delft3D, based on the nonlinear shallow water equations are compared with analytical results and laboratory observations from seven tsunami-like benchmark experiments, and with field observations from the 26 December 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami. The model accurately predicts the magnitude and timing of the measured water levels and flow velocities, as well as the magnitude of the maximum inundation distance and run-up, for both breaking and non-breaking waves. The shock-capturing numerical scheme employed describes well the total decrease in wave height due to breaking, but does not reproduce the observed shoaling near the break point. The maximum water levels observed onshore near Kuala Meurisi, Sumatra, following the 26 December 2004 tsunami are well predicted given the uncertainty in the model setup. The good agreement between the model predictions and the analytical results and observations demonstrates that the numerical solution and wetting and drying methods employed are appropriate for modeling tsunami inundation for breaking and non-breaking long waves. Extension of the model to include sediment transport may be appropriate for long, non-breaking tsunami waves. Using available sediment transport formulations, the sediment deposit thickness at Kuala Meurisi is predicted generally within a factor of 2. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Abstract: Sediment supply provides a fundamental control on the morphology of river deltas, and humans have significantly modified these supplies for centuries. Here we examine the effects of almost a century of sediment supply reduction from the damming of the Elwha River in Washington on shoreline position and beach morphology of its wave-dominated delta. The mean rate of shoreline erosion during 1939–2006 is ~0.6 m/yr, which is equivalent to ~24,000 m3/yr of sediment divergence in the littoral cell, a rate approximately equal to 25–50% of the littoral-grade sediment trapped by the dams. Semi-annual surveys between 2004 and 2007 show that most erosion occurs during the winter with lower rates of change in the summer. Shoreline change and morphology also differ spatially. Negligible shoreline change has occurred updrift (west) of the river mouth, where the beach is mixed sand to cobble, cuspate, and reflective. The beach downdrift (east) of the river mouth has had significant and persistent erosion, but this beach differs in that it has a reflective foreshore with a dissipative low-tide terrace. Downdrift beach erosion results from foreshore retreat, which broadens the low-tide terrace with time, and the rate of this kind of erosion has increased significantly from ~0.8 m/yr during 1939–1990 to ~1.4 m/yr during 1990–2006. Erosion rates for the downdrift beach derived from the 2004–2007 topographic surveys vary between 0 and 13 m/yr, with an average of 3.8 m/yr. We note that the low-tide terrace is significantly coarser (mean grain size ~100 mm) than the foreshore (mean grain size ~30 mm), a pattern contrary to the typical observation of fining low-tide terraces in the region and worldwide. Because this cobble low-tide terrace is created by foreshore erosion, has been steady over intervals of at least years, is predicted to have negligible longshore transport compared to the foreshore portion of the beach, and is inconsistent with oral history of abundant shellfish collections from the low-tide beach, we suggest that it is an armored layer of cobble clasts that are not generally competent in the physical setting of the delta. Thus, the cobble low-tide terrace is very likely a geomorphological feature caused by coastal erosion of a coastal plain and delta, which in turn is related to the impacts of the dams on the Elwha River to sediment fluxes to the coast. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: Tsunami deposits have been found at more than 60 sites along the Cascadia margin of Western North America, and here we review and synthesize their distribution and sedimentary characteristics based on the published record. Cascadia tsunami deposits are best preserved, and most easily identified, in low-energy coastal environments such as tidal marshes, back-barrier marshes and coastal lakes where they occur as anomalous layers of sand within peat and mud. They extend up to a kilometer inland in open coastal settings and several kilometers up river valleys. They are distinguished from other sediments by a combination of sedimentary character and stratigraphic context. Recurrence intervals range from 300–1000 years with an average of 500–600 years. The tsunami deposits have been used to help evaluate and mitigate tsunami hazards in Cascadia. They show that the Cascadia subduction zone is prone to great earthquakes that generate large tsunamis. The inclusion of tsunami deposits on inundation maps, used in conjunction with results from inundation models, allows a more accurate assessment of areas subject to tsunami inundation. The application of sediment transport models can help estimate tsunami flow velocity and wave height, parameters which are necessary to help establish evacuation routes and plan development in tsunami prone areas. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Spatially and temporally high-resolution video imagery was combined with traditional surveyed beach profiles to investigate the evolution of a rapidly eroding beach nourishment project. Upham Beach is a 0,6-km beach located downdrift of a .structured inlet on the west coast of Florida. The beach was stabilized in seaward advanced position during the 1960s and has been nourished every 4-5 years since 1975. During the 1996 nourishment project, 193,000 m² of sediment advanced the shoreline as much as 175 m. Video images were collected concurrent with traditional surveys during the 1996 nourishment project to test video imaging as a nourishment monitoring technique. Video imagery illustrated morphologic changes that were unapparent in survey data. Increased storminess during the second (El Niño) winter after the 1996 project resulted in increased erosion rates of 0.4 m/d (135,0 m/y) as compared with 0,2 m/d (69.4 m/y) during the first winter. The measured half-life, the time at which 50'7( of the nourished material remains, of the nourishment project was 0,94 years. A simple analytical equation indicates reasonable agreement with the measured values, suggesting that project evolution follows a predictable pattern of exponential decay. Longshore planform equilibration does not occur on Upham Beach, rather sediment diffuses downdrift until 100% of the nourished material erodes. The wide nourished beach erodes rapidly due to the lack of sediment bypassing from the north and the stabilized headland at Upham Beach that is exposed to wave energy. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A beach morphology monitoring program was initiated during summer 1997 along the Columbia River littoral cell (CRLC) on the coasts of northwest Oregon and southwest Washington, USA. This field program documents the seasonal through interannual morphological variability of these high-energy dissipative beaches over a variety of .spatial scales. Following the installation of a dense network of geodetic control monuments, a nested sampling scheme consisting of cross-shore topographic beach profiles, three-dimensional topographic beach surface maps, nearshore bathymetric surveys, and sediment size distribution analyses was initiated. Beach monitoring is being conducted with state-of-the-art real-time kinematic differential global positioning system survey methods that combine both high accuracy and speed of measurement. Sampling methods resolve variability in beach morphology at alongshore length scales of approximately 10 meters to approximately 100 kilometers and cross-shore length scales of approximately 1 meter to approximately 2 kilometers. During the winter of 1997/1998, coastal change in the US Pacific Northwest was greatly influenced by one of the strongest El Nino events on record. Steeper than typical southerly wave angles resulted in alongshore sediment transport gradients and shoreline reorientation on a regional scale. The La Nina of 1998/1999, dominated by cross-shore processes associated with the largest recorded wave year in the region, resulted in net beach erosion along much of the littoral cell. The monitoring program successfully documented the morphological response to these interannual forcing anomalies as well as the subsequent beach recovery associated with three consecutive moderate wave years. These morphological observations within the CRLC can be generalized to explain overall system patterns; however, distinct differences in large-scale coastal behavior (e.g., foredune ridge morphology, sandbar morphometrics, and nearshore beach slopes) are not readily explained or understood. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A primary purpose of this paper is to quantitatively link variously defined and derived shoreline estimates commonly used for shoreline change analysis. Estimates of shoreline mapping and derivation error, natural shoreline variability, and the relationships between horizontally-derived (proxy-based) shorelines to vertical datums (e.g. MHW) are presented. A series of shoreline repeatability and variability experiments as well as data from a beach monitoring program along the high-energy US Pacific Northwest coast, indicate total uncertainty estimates of the horizontal position of proxy-based shorelines to be approximately ± 50-150 m for T-sheets and aerial photography and approximately ± 15 m for datum-based shorelines derived from ground- or air-based topographic surveys. The ability to obtain reliable shoreline change results depends upon both the selected shoreline definition (e.g. horizontal- or feature-based proxy, or datum-based intercept) and the accuracy of the technique used in mapping or interpreting its position. The position of the selected shoreline on the beach profile determines its inherent temporal and spatial variability, an imporrant consideration that has often been overlooked in the scientific literature on shoreline change. Historical shorelines mapped on NOS T-sheets and aerial photos have commonly identified high water line (HWL)type shorelines, which are shown to be higher on the beach surface than the MHW-datum intercept along coasts subject to wave runup. Analyses of 4.5 years of beach profile data from the southwest Washington coast suggest that both the MHW and HWL-type shorelines have greater natural short-term variability than expected, significantly greater than the variability of shoreline proxies defined farther landward and higher on the beach profile. A model for determining the natural variability of HWL-type shorelines reveals that this short-term variability is the dominant factor in the large total uncertainty values associated with shorelines derived from T-sheets and aerial photographs. The results of these analyses and quantitative comparisons are relevant to determining the significance of historical shoreline changes, as well as to defining the appropriate shoreline proxy or datum and time scale for future shoreline change analysis. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The innermost shelf off Sarasota, Florida was mapped using sidescan-sonar imagery, seismic-reflection profiles, surface sediment samples, and short cores to define the transition between an onshore siliciclastic sand province and an offshore carbonate province and to identify the processes controlling the distribution of these distinctive facies. The transition between these facies is abrupt and closely tied to the morphology of the inner shelf. A series of low-relief nearly shore-normal ridges characterize the inner shelf. Stratigraphically, the ridges are separated from the underlying Pleistocene and Tertiary carbonate strata by the Holocene ravinement surface. While surficial sediment is fine to very-fine siliciclastic sand on the southeastern sides of the ridges and shell hash covers their northwestern sides, the cores of these Holocene deposits are a mixture of both of these facies. Along the southeastern edges of the ridges the facies boundary coincides with the discontinuity that separates the ridge deposits from the underlying strata. The transition from siliciclastic to carbonate sediment on the northwestern sides of the ridges is equally abrupt, but it falls along the crests of the ridges rather than at their edges. Here the facies transition lies within the Holocene deposit, and appears to be the result of sediment reworking by modern processes. This facies distribution primarily appears to result from south-flowing currents generated during winter storms that winnow the fine siliciclastic sediment from the troughs and steeper northwestern sides of the ridges. A coarse shell lag is left armoring the steeper northwestern sides of the ridges, and the fine sediment is deposited on the gentler southeastern sides of the ridges. This pronounced partitioning of the surficial sediment appears to be the result of the siliciclastic sand being winnowed and transported by these currents while the carbonate shell hash falls below the threshold of sediment movement and is left as a lag. The resulting facies boundaries on this low-energy, sediment-starved inner continental shelf are of two origins which both are tied to the remarkably subtle ridge morphology. Along the southeastern sides of the ridges the facies boundary coincides with a stratigraphic discontinuity that separates Holocene from the older deposits while the transition along the northwestern sides of the ridges is within the Holocene deposit and is the result of sediment redistribution by modern processes. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Over the past 200 years of written records, the Hawaiian Islands have experienced tens of tsunamis generated by earthquakes in the subduction zones of the Pacific 'Ring of Fire' (for example, Alaska–Aleutian, Kuril–Kamchatka, Chile and Japan). Mapping and dating anomalous beds of sand and silt deposited by tsunamis in low‐lying areas along Pacific coasts, even those distant from subduction zones, is critical for assessing tsunami hazard throughout the Pacific basin. This study searched for evidence of tsunami inundation using stratigraphic and sedimentological analyses of potential tsunami deposits beneath present and former Hawaiian wetlands, coastal lagoons, and river floodplains. Coastal wetland sites on the islands of Hawai΄i, Maui, O΄ahu and Kaua΄i were selected based on historical tsunami runup, numerical inundation modelling, proximity to sandy source sediments, degree of historical wetland disturbance, and breadth of prior geological and archaeological investigations. Sand beds containing marine calcareous sediment within peaty and/or muddy wetland deposits on the north and north‐eastern shores of Kaua΄i, O΄ahu and Hawai΄i were interpreted as tsunami deposits. At some sites, deposits of the 1946 and 1957 Aleutian tsunamis are analogues for deeper, older probable tsunami deposits. Radiocarbon‐based age models date sand beds from three sites to ca 700 to 500 cal yr bp, which overlaps ages for tsunami deposits in the eastern Aleutian Islands that record a local subduction zone earthquake. The overlapping modelled ages for tsunami deposits at the study sites support a plausible correlation with an eastern Aleutian earthquake source for a large prehistoric tsunami in the Hawaiian Islands. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

At the eastern end of the 1957 Andreanof Islands, Alaska, USA, moment magnitude 8.6 earthquake rupture, Driftwood Bay (Umnak Island) and Stardust Bay (Sedanka Island) lie along presently locked and creeping parts of the Aleutian megathrust, respectively, based on satellite geodesy onshore. Both bays, located 200 km apart, face the Aleutian trench and harbor coastal evidence for tsunami inundation in 1957. Here we describe the evidence at Driftwood Bay, including eight sheets of landward-fining, normally-graded marine sand that extend up to 375 m inland and 23 m above mean tide level. Drift logs that corroborate historical accounts of 1957 tsunami runup on Umnak Island's Pacific coast overlie the youngest sand sheet, which 137Cs activity shows was deposited in the decade before 1963. The older sand sheets probably record tsunamis prior to 1957 because an emergent coastal terrace lacks evidence for storm-wave erosion and overwash since ca. 2 ka. Comparisons of the Driftwood Bay and Stardust Bay tsunami histories suggest that at least twice in the past 1700 years inundation occurred at one site but not the other. In contrast, Bayesian age-depth modeling suggests that the two bays may record five tsunamis like the 1957 tsunami, generated by earthquake ruptures that spanned the presently locked and creeping parts of the Aleutian megathrust. However, serial tsunamis occurring within days to centuries cannot be precluded. Our findings imply 164-257-year recurrence intervals for large eastern Aleutian tsunamis and challenge the notion that creeping parts of the megathrust, inferred from geodesy onshore, pose lower earthquake and tsunami hazards than locked areas. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Sediment pulses can cause widespread, complex changes to rivers and coastal regions. Quantifying landscape response to sediment-supply changes is a long-standing problem in geomorphology, but the unanticipated nature of most sediment pulses rarely allows for detailed measurement of associated landscape processes and evolution. The intentional removal of two large dams on the Elwha River (Washington, USA) exposed ~30 Mt of impounded sediment to fluvial erosion, presenting a unique opportunity to quantify source-to-sink river and coastal responses to a massive sediment-source perturbation. Here we evaluate geomorphic evolution during and after the sediment pulse, presenting a 5-year sediment budget and morphodynamic analysis of the Elwha River and its delta. Approximately 65% of the sediment was eroded, of which only ~10% was deposited in the fluvial system. This restored fluvial supply of sand, gravel, and wood substantially changed the channel morphology. The remaining ~90% of the released sediment was transported to the coast, causing ~60 ha of delta growth. Although metrics of geomorphic change did not follow simple time-coherent paths, many signals peaked 1–2 years after the start of dam removal, indicating combined impulse and step-change disturbance responses. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The coastal marine ecosystem near the Elwha River was altered by a massive sediment influx—over 10 million tonnes—during the staged three-year removal of two hydropower dams. We used time series of bathymetry, substrate grain size, remotely sensed turbidity, scuba dive surveys, and towed video observations collected before and during dam removal to assess responses of the nearshore subtidal community (3 m to 17 m depth). Biological changes were primarily driven by sediment deposition and elevated suspended sediment concentrations. Macroalgae, predominantly kelp and foliose red algae, were abundant before dam removal with combined cover levels greater than 50%. Where persistent sediment deposits formed, macroalgae decreased greatly or were eliminated. In areas lacking deposition, macroalgae cover decreased inversely to suspended sediment concentration, suggesting impacts from light reduction or scour. Densities of most invertebrate and fish taxa decreased in areas with persistent sediment deposition; however, bivalve densities increased where mud deposited over sand, and flatfish and Pacific sand lance densities increased where sand deposited over gravel. In areas without sediment deposition, most invertebrate and fish taxa were unaffected by increased suspended sediment or the loss of algae cover associated with it; however, densities of tubeworms and flatfish, and primary cover of sessile invertebrates increased suggesting benefits of increased particulate matter or relaxed competition with macroalgae for space. As dam removal neared completion, we saw evidence of macroalgal recovery that likely owed to water column clearing, indicating that long-term recovery from dam removal effects may be starting. Our results are relevant to future dam removal projects in coastal areas and more generally to understanding effects of increased sedimentation on nearshore subtidal benthic communities. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Habitat diversity and heterogeneity play a fundamental role in structuring ecological communities. Dam emplacement and removal can fundamentally alter habitat characteristics, which, in turn, can affect associated biological communities. Beginning in the early 1900s, the Elwha and Glines Canyon dams in Washington, USA, withheld an estimated 30 million Mg of sediment from river, coastal, and nearshore habitats. During the staged removal of these dams, the largest dam removal project in history, over 14 million Mg of sediment were released from the former reservoirs. Our interdisciplinary study in coastal habitats, the first of its kind, shows how the physical changes to the river delta and estuary habitats during dam removal were linked to responses in biological communities. Sediment released during dam removal resulted in over a meter of sedimentation in the estuary and over 400 m of expansion of the river mouth delta landform. These changes increased the amount of supratidal and intertidal habitat, but also reduced the influx of seawater into the pre-removal estuary complex. The effects of these geomorphic and hydrologic changes cascaded to biological systems, reducing the abundance of macroinvertebrates and fish in the estuary and shifting community composition from brackish to freshwater-dominated species. Vegetation did not significantly change on the delta, but pioneer vegetation increased during dam removal, coinciding with the addition of newly available habitat. Understanding how coastal habitats respond to large-scale human stressors, and in some cases the removal of those stressors, is increasingly important as human uses and restoration activities increase in these habitats. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A submerged, low-relief nearshore berm was constructed in the Pacific Ocean near the mouth of the Columbia River, USA, using 216,000 m3 of sediment dredged from the adjacent navigation channel. The material dredged from the navigation channel was placed on the northern flank of the ebb-tidal delta in water depths between 12 and 15 m and created a distinct feature that could be tracked over time. Field measurements and numerical modeling were used to evaluate the transport pathways, time scales, and physical processes responsible for dispersal of the berm and evaluate the suitability of the location for operational placement of dredged material to enhance the sediment supply to eroding beaches onshore of the placement site. Repeated multibeam bathymetric surveys characterized the initial berm morphology and dispersion of the berm between September 22, 2020, and March 10, 2021. During this time, the volume of sediment within the berm decreased by about 40%to 127,000 m3, the maximum height decreased by almost 60%, and the center of the deposit shifted onshore over 200 m. Observations of berm morphology were compared with predictions from a three-dimensional hydrodynamic and sediment transport model application to refine poorly constrained model input parameters including sediment transport coefficients, bed schematization, and grain size. The calibrated sediment transport model was used to predict the amount, timing, and direction of transport outside of the observed survey area. Model simulations predicted that tidal currents were weak in the vicinity of the berm and wave processes including enhanced bottom stresses and asymmetric bottom orbital velocities resulted in dominant onshore movement of sediment from the berm toward the coastline. Roughly 50% of the berm volume was predicted to disperse away from the initial placement site during the 169 day hindcast. Between 9 and 17% of the initial volume of the berm was predicted to accumulate along the shoreface of a shoreline reach experiencing chronic erosion directly onshore of the placement site. Scenarios exploring alternate placement locations suggested that the berm was relatively effective in enhancing the sediment supply along the eroding coastline north of the inlet. The transferable monitoring and modeling framework developed in this study can be used to inform implementation of strategic nearshore placements and regional sediment management in complex, high-energy coastal environments elsewhere. • The morphology and dispersion of a nearshore berm was quantified with repeated mulitbeam bathymetry surveys. • A three-dimensional hydrodynamic and sediment transport model was calibrated based on observations of berm morphology. • Calibrated model hindcast simulations accurately predicted observed changes in berm morphology. • Model predictions used to predict fate of berm sediment and quantify amount of sediment supplied to to eroding coastline. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Morphodynamic equilibrium is a widely adopted yet elusive concept in the field of geomorphology of coasts, rivers and estuaries. Based on the Exner equation, an expression of mass conservation of sediment, we distinguish three types of equilibrium defined as static and dynamic, of which two different types exist. Other expressions such as statistical and quasi-equilibrium which do not strictly satisfy the Exner conditions are also acknowledged for their practical use. The choice of a temporal scale is imperative to analyse the type of equilibrium. We discuss the difference between morphodynamic equilibrium in the “real world” (nature) and the “virtual world” (model). Modelling studies rely on simplifications of the real world and lead to understanding of process interactions. A variety of factors affect the use of virtual-world predictions in the real world (e.g., variability in environmental drivers and variability in the setting) so that the concept of morphodynamic equilibrium should be mathematically unequivocal in the virtual world and interpreted over the appropriate spatial and temporal scale in the real world. We draw examples from estuarine settings which are subject to various governing factors which broadly include hydrodynamics, sedimentology and landscape setting. Following the traditional “tide-wave-river” ternary diagram, we summarize studies to date that explore the “virtual world”, discuss the type of equilibrium reached and how it relates to the real world. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Understanding landscape responses to sediment supply changes constitutes a fundamental part of many problems in geomorphology, but opportunities to study such processes at field scales are rare. The phased removal of two large dams on the Elwha River, Washington, exposed 21 ± 3 million m 3 , or ~ 30 million tonnes (t), of sediment that had been deposited in the two former reservoirs, allowing a comprehensive investigation of watershed and coastal responses to a substantial increase in sediment supply. Here we provide a source-to-sink sediment budget of this sediment release during the first two years of the project (September 2011–September 2013) and synthesize the geomorphic changes that occurred to downstream fluvial and coastal landforms. Owing to the phased removal of each dam, the release of sediment to the river was a function of the amount of dam structure removed, the progradation of reservoir delta sediments, exposure of more cohesive lakebed sediment, and the hydrologic conditions of the river. The greatest downstream geomorphic effects were observed after water bodies of both reservoirs were fully drained and fine (silt and clay) and coarse (sand and gravel) sediments were spilling past the former dam sites. After both dams were spilling fine and coarse sediments, river suspended-sediment concentrations were commonly several thousand mg/L with ~ 50% sand during moderate and high river flow. At the same time, a sand and gravel sediment wave dispersed down the river channel, filling channel pools and floodplain channels, aggrading much of the river channel by ~ 1 m, reducing river channel sediment grain sizes by ~ 16-fold, and depositing ~ 2.2 million m 3 of sand and gravel on the seafloor offshore of the river mouth. The total sediment budget during the first two years revealed that the vast majority (~ 90%) of the sediment released from the former reservoirs to the river passed through the fluvial system and was discharged to the coastal waters, where slightly less than half of the sediment was deposited in the river-mouth delta. Although most of the measured fluvial and coastal deposition was sand-sized and coarser (> 0.063 mm), significant mud deposition was observed in and around the mainstem river channel and on the seafloor. Woody debris, ranging from millimeter-size particles to old-growth trees and stumps, was also introduced to fluvial and coastal landforms during the dam removals. At the end of our two-year study, Elwha Dam was completely removed, Glines Canyon Dam had been 75% removed (full removal was completed 2014), and ~ 65% of the combined reservoir sediment masses—including ~ 8 Mt of fine-grained and ~ 12 Mt of coarse-grained sediment—remained within the former reservoirs. Reservoir sediment will continue to be released to the Elwha River following our two-year study owing to a ~ 16 m base level drop during the final removal of Glines Canyon Dam and to erosion from floods with larger magnitudes than occurred during our study. Comparisons with a geomorphic synthesis of small dam removals suggest that the rate of sediment erosion as a percent of storage was greater in the Elwha River during the first two years of the project than in the other systems. Comparisons with other Pacific Northwest dam removals suggest that these steep, high-energy rivers have enough stream power to export volumes of sediment deposited over several decades in only months to a few years. These results should assist with predicting and characterizing landscape responses to future dam removals and other perturbations to fluvial and coastal sediment budgets. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Despite the role of the Alaska-Aleutian megathrust as the source of some of the largest earthquakes and tsunamis, the history of its pre-twentieth century tsunamis is largely unknown west of the rupture zone of the great (magnitude, M 9.2) 1964 earthquake. Stratigraphy in core transects at two boggy lowland sites on Chirikof Island's southwest coast preserves tsunami deposits dating from the postglacial to the twentieth century. In a 500-m-long basin 13-15 m above sea level and 400 m from the sea, 4 of 10 sandy to silty beds in a 3-5-m-thick sequence of freshwater peat were probably deposited by tsunamis. The freshwater peat sequence beneath a gently sloping alluvial fan 2 km to the east, 5-15 m above sea level and 550 m from the sea, contains 20 sandy to silty beds deposited since 3.5 ka; at least 13 were probably deposited by tsunamis. Although most of the sandy beds have consistent thicknesses (over distances of 10-265 m), sharp lower contacts, good sorting, and/or upward fining typical of tsunami deposits, the beds contain abundant freshwater diatoms, very few brackish-water diatoms, and no marine diatoms. Apparently, tsunamis traveling inland over low dunes and boggy lowland entrained largely freshwater diatoms. Abundant fragmented diatoms, and lake species in some sandy beds not found in host peat, were probably transported by tsunamis to elevations of >10 m at the eastern site. Single-aliquot regeneration optically stimulated luminescence dating of the third youngest bed is consistent with its having been deposited by the tsunami recorded at Russian hunting outposts in 1788, and with the second youngest bed being deposited by a tsunami during an upper plate earthquake in 1880. We infer from stratigraphy, 14C-dated peat deposition rates, and unpublished analyses of the island's history that the 1938 tsunami may locally have reached an elevation of >10 m. As this is the first record of Aleutian tsunamis extending throughout the Holocene, we cannot estimate source earthquake locations or magnitudes for most tsunami-deposited beds. We infer that no more than 3 of the 23 possible tsunamis beds at both sites were deposited following upper plate faulting or submarine landslides independent of megathrust earthquakes. If so, the Semidi segment of the Alaska-Aleutian megathrust near Chirikof Island probably sent high tsunamis southward every 180-270 yr for at least the past 3500 yr. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Abstract: While previous studies have documented contaminants in fish, sediments, water, and wildlife, few specifics are known about the spatial distribution of contaminants in the Columbia River Estuary (CRE). Our study goal was to characterize sediment contaminant detections and concentrations in reaches of the CRE that were concurrently being sampled to assess contaminants in water, invertebrates, fish, and osprey (Pandion haliaetus) eggs. Our objectives were to develop a survey design based on sedimentation characteristics and then assess whether sediment grain size, total organic carbon (TOC), and contaminant concentrations and detections varied between areas with different sedimentation characteristics. We used a sediment transport model to predict sedimentation characteristics of three 16km river reaches in the CRE. We then compartmentalized the modeled change in bed mass after a two week simulation to define sampling strata with depositional, stable, or erosional conditions. We collected and analyzed bottom sediments to assess whether substrate composition, organic matter composition, and contaminant concentrations and detections varied among strata within and between the reaches. We observed differences in grain size fractions between strata within and between reaches. We found that the fine sediment fraction was positively correlated with TOC. Contaminant concentrations were statistically different between depositional vs. erosional strata for the industrial compounds, personal care products and polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons class (Indus–PCP–PAH). We also observed significant differences between strata in the number of detections of Indus–PCP–PAH (depositional vs. erosional; stable vs. erosional) and for the flame retardants, polychlorinated biphenyls, and pesticides class (depositional vs. erosional, depositional vs. stable). When we estimated mean contaminant concentrations by reach, we observed higher contaminant concentrations in the furthest downstream reach with a decreasing trend in the two upstream reaches. Contaminant survey designs that account for sedimentation characteristics could increase the probability that sampling is allocated to areas likely to be contaminated. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

People around the world are looking to marine ecosystems to provide additional benefits to society. As they consider expanding current uses and investing in new ones, new management approaches are needed that will sustain the delivery of the diverse benefits that people want and need. An ecosystem services framework provides metrics for assessing the quantity, quality, and value of benefits obtained from different portfolios of uses. Such a framework has been developed for assessments on land, and is now being developed for application to marine ecosystems. Here, we present marine Integrated Valuation of Ecosystem Services and Tradeoffs (InVEST), a new tool to assess (i.e., map, model, and value) multiple services provided by marine ecosystems. It allows one to estimate changes in a suite of services under different management scenarios and to investigate trade-offs among the scenarios, including implications of drivers like climate. We describe key inputs and outputs of each of the component ecosystem service models and present results from an application to the West Coast of Vancouver Island, British Columbia, Canada. The results demonstrate how marine InVEST can be used to help shape the dialogue and inform decision making in a marine spatial planning context. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Abstract: Sandy deposits from the 29 September 2009 tsunami on the east coast of Upolu, Samoa were investigated to document their characteristics and used to apply an inverse sediment transport model to estimate tsunami flow speed. Sandy deposits 6 to 15cm thick formed from ~25 to ~250m inland. Sedimentary layers in the deposits, that are defined by vertical grain size variation and contacts, are interpreted to have formed during onshore runup of two waves. Deposits at 3 locations (100, 170, and 240m inland) contained two layers that are predominately normally graded (~80%), but contained massive sections (~15%) and inversely graded sections (~5%) at their bases. About 75% of the total thickness of normally graded intervals exhibits a signature of sediment falling out of suspension at their top. This type of grading, termed suspension grading here, was first recognized in turbidity current deposits and is characterized by the entire distribution shifting finer upwards in a layer as high-settling velocity, coarser material deposits first and low-settling velocity finer material deposits last. The Jaffe and Gelfenbaum (2007) inverse sediment transport model was applied to intervals within layers that exhibited suspension grading to estimate tsunami flow speed and was able to reproduce the general trends of the observed suspension grading. A key unknown input in the modeling is the bottom roughness. For a bottom roughness parameterization using a Manning''s n of 0.03 (equivalent to a z0 ~0.006m for the observed flow depths of 2–3m) flow speeds calculated for the 2 layers at the 3 locations were 3.8, 3.6, and 3.7m/s (bottom layer/earlier wave) and 4.4, 4.4, and 4.1m/s (top layer/later wave) at 100, 170, and 240m inland, respectively. These estimates are consistent with the ~3–8m/s tsunami flow speed from boulder transport calculations and result in Froude numbers of ~0.7–1.0 when maximum measured flow depths are used. Because the inverse model assumes the deposit was formed by sediment falling out of suspension care must be taken to model only intervals of the deposit exhibiting suspension grading. Including intervals deposited by either bedload or suspended load transport convergences result in higher, and sometimes unrealistic, tsunami flow speed estimates. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

On the evening of March 28, 2005 at 11:09 p.m. local time (16:09 UTC), a large earthquake occurred offshore of West Sumatra, Indonesia. With a moment magnitude ( M) of 8.6, the event caused substantial shaking damage and land level changes between Simeulue Island in the north and the Batu Islands in the south. The earthquake also generated a tsunami, which was observed throughout the source region as well as on distant tide gauges. While the tsunami was not as extreme as the tsunami of December 26th, 2004, it did cause significant flooding and damage at some locations. The spatial and temporal proximity of the two events led to a unique set of observational data from the earthquake and tsunami as well as insights relevant to tsunami hazard planning and education efforts. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Abstract: Deposits formed by extreme waves can be useful in elucidating the type and characteristics of the depositional event. The study area on the southeast coast of the island of Hawaiʻi is characterized by the presence of geologically young basalts of known age that are mantled by recent wave-derived sedimentary deposits. The area has been impacted by large swells, storms and tsunamis over the last century, and in combination with known substrate ages makes this an ideal location to study recent deposits produced by such events. Three distinct coarse-clast deposit assemblages can be recognized based on clast size, composition, angularity, orientation, packing, elevation and inland distance of the deposit. These deposits are characterized as one of three types. 1) Gravel fields of isolated clasts, primarily boulder-size material, and scattered pockets of concentrated sand and gravel in topographic lows. 2) Shore-parallel and cuspate ridges composed mostly of rounded basalt gravel and sand with small amounts of carbonate detritus. The ridges range in height from about 1 to 3m and are 10s of m wide. 3) Cliff-top deposits of scattered angular and sub-angular clasts along sea cliffs that are generally greater than 5m elevation. The gravel fields are primarily of tsunami origin from either the 1975 Kalapana event, or a combination of the 1975 tsunami, and 1868 tsunami or earlier events. The ridge deposits are presently active and sediment continues to be added during high wave events. The cliff-top deposits contain evidence of deposition by both tsunami and storm processes and require further investigation. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: This paper details the historical coastal evolution of the Columbia River littoral cell in the Pacific Northwest of the United States. Geological data from A.D. 1700 and records leading up to the late 1800s provide insights to the natural system dynamics prior to significant human intervention, most notably jetty construction between 1885 and 1917. All reliable surveys, charts, and aerial photos are used to quantify decadal-scale changes at the three estuary entrances and four sub-cells of the littoral cell. Shoreline, bathymetric, and topographic change over three historical intervals—1870s–1920s, 1920s–1950s, and 1950s–1990s—are integrated to provide an understanding of sediment-sharing relationships among the littoral cell components. Regional morphological change data are developed for alongshore segments of approximately 5km, enabling comparisons of shoreline change to upper-shoreface and barrier volume change within common compartments. The construction of entrance jetties at the Columbia River (1885–1917) and Grays Harbor (1898–1916) has profoundly affected the evolution of the littoral cell, and has accentuated the morphological coupling between the inlets, ebb-tidal deltas, shorefaces, and barriers. The jetties induced erosion of the inlets and offshore migration of ebb-tidal deltas. The change in boundary conditions at the entrances enabled waves to rework the flanks of ebb-tidal deltas and supply enormous quantities of sand to the adjacent coasts. Over several decades the initial sand pulses have been dispersed alongshore up to tens of kilometers from the estuary entrances. Winter waves and coastal currents produce net northward sediment transport across the shoreface while summer conditions tend to induce onshore sediment transport and accumulation of the upper shoreface and barriers at relatively high rates. Historical shoreline progradation rates since jetty construction are approximately double the late prehistoric rates between 1700 and the 1870s. Erosion rates of the mid- to lower shoreface to the south of the jettied estuary entrances have typically been greater than the accumulation rates of the upper shoreface and barrier, suggesting that the lower shoreface has been an important source of littoral sediments over decadal and longer time scales. Until recent decades, sediment supply from the ebb-tidal delta flanks and lower shoreface has largely masked the decline in Columbia River sediment supply resulting from flow regulation and dredging disposal practices. With the contemporary onset and expansion of coastal erosion adjacent to the jettied estuary entrances, proper management of dredged sediment is imperative to mitigate the effects of a declining sediment budget. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: Beaches and barrier spits of the Columbia River littoral cell (CRLC), 160km in length, experienced substantial progradation, 0.5–2.5km in width, during the late Holocene. The accreted beach plains and barriers preserved evidence of episodic catastrophic retreat that was forced by coseismic subsidence. The abrupt subsidence events (0.5–1.5m submergence) are associated with slip on the underlying Cascadia megathrust, with a mean recurrence interval of ∼500yr. Ground penetrating radar (GPR) profiles taken across the barriers and beach plains show high-angle beach retreat scarps (3–15m vertical relief) and foredune-ridge slump scarps (5–15m vertical relief). The upper-shoreface retreat features are correlated throughout the littoral cell by radiocarbon age, position relative to abandoned foredune ridges, and distinct sequences of large and small scarps. Particularly large retreat scarps (10–15m in height) are associated with the first oldest and fourth oldest prehistoric scarps, ‘A’ and ‘D’, respectively. A maximum of 10 retreat scarps in the Long Beach subcell date from 216±211 calRCYBP to 4756±114 calRCYBP. The youngest seven scarps (A–G) are correlated between all four subcells, showing a regional response to the coseismic strain cycles. Backshore disturbance features (1–3m vertical relief) are observed in the GPR profiles, but they are not identified here due to their discontinuities between adjacent profiles at ∼5km longshore spacing. The seven regional scarps (A–G) are directly correlated to seven coseismic subsidence events, reported to date between 0.3 and ∼3.2ka. The correlation of scarps to earthquake events provides high-resolution proxy ages for shoreline positions in late Holocene time. The proxy shoreline positions are dated at 0.3, 1.1, 1.3, ∼1.7, ∼2.5, ∼2.8, and ∼3.2ka, based on buried wetland sequences from adjacent tidal basins. The paleoshoreline dating demonstrates that the onset of net shoreface progradation (between 4.7 and 0.3ka) was delayed with increasing distance (0–100km) from the Columbia River sand source. The history of beach progradation reflects the sequential filling of bay and shoreface accommodation spaces located down-drift of the Columbia River mouth. These late Holocene shoreline changes portend future redistributions of existing sand within the littoral system as the limited sand reserves continue to migrate away from the Columbia River mouth source. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: The application of an integrated data analysis and modeling scheme reveals that decadal-scale shoreline evolution along a U.S. Pacific Northwest littoral cell is highly dependent on both sediment supply and wave climate variability. In particular, accurate estimates of (Columbia River) sediment supply and sediment feeding from the lower shoreface are critical components of balancing the barrier beach sediment budget and are therefore essential to making sensible shoreline change hindcasts and forecasts. A simple deterministic one-line shoreline change model, applied in a quasi-probabilistic manner, enables evaluation of the influence of sediment supply and wave climate variability through simulation of historical shoreline change. Through iteration, a range of realistic scenarios are developed to constrain decadal-scale shoreline change predictions. Modeled shoreline changes are significantly sensitive to directional changes in the incident waves, and therefore sensitive to the occurrence of interannual climatic fluctuations such as major El Niño events. A predicted increase in the intensity of the east Pacific wave climate (1.0m increase in significant wave height in 20yr) affects forecast shoreline positions only when this increase occurs during the winter storm season. However, the effect of this increase in storm power during any given year is small relative to the impact of major El Niño events. The model has significant skill in decadal-scale hindcasts suggesting that alongshore gradients in sediment transport dominate coastal change at this scale at this site. However, both data and model results suggest that net onshore feeding from the lower shoreface is responsible for approximately 20% of the decadal-scale coastal change. Field measurements and poor model skill at annual scale indicate that cross-shore processes likely dominate coastal change at shorter time scales. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: Anomalous morphological features within large estuaries may be: (1) recorders of external forces that periodically overwhelm the normal morphodynamic responses to estuarine energy fluxes, and (2) possible predictors of cycles of future coastal change. At the entrance to Willapa Bay, Washington, chronic beach erosion and frequent coastal flooding are related to the historical northward channel migration that destroyed the protective sand spits of Cape Shoalwater. Northward channel migration since the late 1800s conforms to the long-term net sediment transport direction. What requires explanation is periodic southward relocation of the trunk channel by as much as 5 km, and attendant construction of moderately large sand spits on the north side of the bay such as Kindred Island, Tokeland Peninsula, and Cape Shoalwater. Both autocyclic and allocyclic processes may have been responsible for trunk channel realignment and associated spit deposition. Channel recycling may occur when the main channel becomes overextended to the north and the tidal flow is inefficient because of its decreased gradient and increased susceptibility to shoaling by the growth and migration of tidal sand ridges. Under those conditions trunk channel relocation would be facilitated by increased wave heights and water levels of El Niño winter storms. However, co-seismic subsidence is the most likely mechanism for abruptly increasing sand supply and longshore transport that would favor discrete periods of channel relocation and spit deposition. Unless external forcing changes sand supply and predominant sediment transport directions in the future, the relative rise in sea level, frequent winter storms, and local deficit in the sand budget assure that beach erosion will continue at the mouth of this large estuary. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

The 1755 CE Lisbon earthquake triggered the largest historical tsunami ever impacting the Atlantic coasts of Europe. Despite recent efforts to better understand this event, there are still unanswered questions about the location of its epicenter and whether physical and historical evidences are in agreement. Inverse modeling using tsunami sediments can be applied to quantify onshore flow characteristics. Forward numerical modeling is also a powerful tool capable of simulating tsunami hydrodynamics and the induced sediment transport. This work presents novel results from a combination of inverse and forward modeling to assess tsunami characteristics onshore. The study site is located on the Portuguese southern coast, at the Salgados lowland where inverse modeling was performed using TsuSedMod (Jaffe and Gelfenbaum, 2007) based on data retrieved from sediment samples. Forward modeling, including tsunami generation and propagation, was performed using the FLOW module of Delft3D suite model. Onshore topography was corrected for the 1755 CE scenario based on extensive tsunami sedimentary deposit thickness data. The tsunami source was chosen based on recent results from the authors that pointed to a good correlation between modeled and field tsunami data for the Marques de Pombal Fault (MPF), Horseshoe Fault (HSF) and a hypothetical scenario represented by a simple combination between Gorringe Bank and Horseshoe Fault (Scenario 1 - SC1). Results from inverse model show tsunami onshore average speed varying from 7.3 up to 9.3 m/s and shear velocities from 0.52 up to 0.66 m/s. Forward modeling results show a wide variation according to the seismic source and tsunami onshore velocities can range from around 7 m/s when considering MPF to even an absence of inundation (SC1). The good agreement between both modeling approaches estimating tsunami velocity confirms the potential of numerical modeling coupled with geological records to improve the understanding of historical events. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Coastal erosion outpaces land generation along many of the world's deltas and a significant percentage of shorelines, and human-caused alterations to coastal sediment budgets can be important drivers of this erosion. For sediment-starved and erosion-prone coasts, large-scale enhancement of sediment supply may be an important, but poorly understood, management option. Here we provide new topographic measurements that show patterns and trends of beach accretion following the restoration of sediment supply from a massive dam removal project. River sediment was initially deposited in intertidal-to-subtidal deltaic lobes, and this sediment was reworked by ocean waves into subaerial river mouth bars over time scales of several months. These river mouth bars welded to the shoreline and then initiated waves of sediment accretion along adjacent upcoast and downcoast beaches. Although the downcoast shoreline has a high wave-angle setting, the sedimentation waves straightened the downcoast shoreline rather than forming self-organized quasi-periodic instabilities, which suggests that simple coastal evolution theory did not hold under these conditions. Combined with other mega-nourishment projects, these findings provide new understanding of littoral responses to the restoration of sediment supplies. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Numerical models of tsunami inundation and sedimentation can provide useful insights to better understand the dynamics of paleotsunamis. We applied a coupled field data and numerical modeling approach for the AD 1755's tsunami at Salgados, a lowland on the south coast of Portugal where tsunami deposits from AD1755 mostly consist of massive or normally-graded, landward thinning layers of shell-rich sand with an erosive base within the mud-dominated lowlands. Landward of the foredune, the AD1755's deposit is roughly 10 cm thick and thins in the landward and alongshore directions. It is possible to ascribe the source of this deposit to the dune and/or beach based on mineralogical and grain-size comparisons with modern surface samples. From the combination of spatial distribution of the deposit thickness and GPR data, which shows an erosional surface at approximately 6m above MSL, we infer that the maximum tsunami water level at the coast was between 6 and 10m. Regional tsunami historical records, however, suggest higher heights, up to 12m above MSL at the coast.This work used geological signatures (both depositional and erosional) of the AD 1755's tsunami to validate tsunami hydrodynamic and sediment transport models from 7 different proposed fault ruptures. These epicentral areas have been previously proposed in literature and include Marquês de Pombal Fault, Gorringe Bank, Cadiz Accretionary Wedge, Horseshoe Fault and 3 different scenarios combining some of these structure with deeper (30-60 km) ones. A classification of more likely scenarios was established based on physical and validated numerical parameters (tsunami travel time, run-up, erosion depth, volume of sediment and post-event coastal profile). Model results suggest that the Cadiz Accretionary Wedge source largely exceeds the field and historical data. By contrast, Gorringe Bank, two combined scenarios display modeled results that are insufficient to reflect the real damage and imprints in the geological record. Moreover, the Horsheshoe Fault presents a partial correspondence between hydrodynamic and sediment transport models and its field data. Finally, the best correlation between field and modeled data is presented by the Marquês de Pombal Fault and by one combined scenario. These present extremely good compatibility in travel time, depth of erosion, sediment volume and also presents a good correlation with the observed run-up and the best matches between modeled and field coastal profile after the AD 1755.This modeling exercise results puts in evidence the shortcomings related with the discussion surrounding the AD 1755's source: no known structure seems to have enough dimension to cause an AD 1755-tsunami like event or the available models do not respond well to far distance sources. Either way, the methodological approach followed here stresses the importance of further modeling developments and the need to address this topic from a combined perspective.AcknowledgementsWork supported by FCT- project UID/GEO/50019/2019 - Instituto Dom Luiz and by Project OnOff - PTDC/CTA-GEO/28941/2017 – financed by FCT. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]