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In this paper, we developed an environmentally friendly microcapsules with natural materials to replace plastic microbeads used in personal care products and studied its functionality. The microcapsules with sustained release properties of orchid black currant fragrance were prepared by microemulsion method and using maltodextrin and resistant starch as wall materials. Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) spectra and thermogravimetric analysis (TG) indicated the fragrance was encapsulated into microcapsules successfully, and the encapsulation ratio of microcapsule particles was 38%. Scanning electron microscopy (SEM) and dynamic light scattering laser particle size analyzer (DLS) results showed the microcapsule particles were spherical, and the particle size ranged from 1.2 to 2.2 μm with the average particle size of 1.7 μm, which can stably attach to the hair and have good slow-release properties. Adding the microcapsules to the hair conditioner and treating the real hair bundle through electrostatic adsorption, the application efficacy, sustained-release and irritating effects of the microcapsules have been evaluated. The aroma retention rate of microencapsulated fragrance treated hair is much higher at 5, 7 and 21 days than that of unencapsulated fragrance treated one, and the sensory evaluation of the aroma intensity of the hair bundles treated with encapsulated fragrances vs. fragrances showed similar results to those obtained by electronic nose test. Meanwhile, the microcapsules’ irritation on corneal have been assessed by the hen's egg chorioallantoic membrane (HET-CAM) test. The test results indicated that the prepared fragrance microcapsules have no irritating effect to human cornea, and the microcapsules are safe, green and of environmental friendliness.

The objective of the submitted work was to assess the effect of hot air and/ or gamma irradiation following the application of a protein hair conditioner on the skin hygiene. Ninety six albino rats were employed. They were divided into eight groups; each included six males and six females. Rats in group 1 served as control . Rats of groups 2, 3 and 4were rubbed with conditioner for one, two and three times, respectively, every was separated by seven days. Following every treatment, the rats were exposed to hot air (95 ᵒC) for one minute. Rats in groups5,6 and 7 were treated in the same manner . After one week, they exposed to a single dose gamma irradiation (10 Gy). Rats in group 8 were treated once with conditioner and then directly exposed to the same dose. Post one week of irradiation, all rats were anesthetized and blood samples were collected for biochemical analyses, while shaven skin cuts from the centre protein applying area for histological examinations. Morphological observations revealed alopecia and skin ulcer. Whereas, the biochemical results indicated that serum collagen I contents decreased while heat shock protein concentrations increased as treatment repetitions. The level of vascular endothelial growth factor exhibited inconsistence trend. Histopathological observations confirmed the morphological findings. In conclusion, there is no protein hair conditioner products that can be considered completely safe. It is worth to state that, it’s time to give serious consideration for stopping these treatments to avoid the cumulative application risks.

This study attempted to investigate the possibility of using Muunsan extract as a new natural cosmetic ingredient by preparing a hair conditioner containing such an extract, applying it to permed hair, and analyzing its effects with the goal remedying subalhwangrak (yellowish and gray hair losing gloss and smoothness) as defined in oehyeongpyeon (external medicine) of the Donguibogam (Korean medical encyclopedia). According to measurements, ‘V’ was the greatest, followed by ‘C-2’, ‘C-1’, ‘B-2’, ‘A-2’, ‘B-1’, ‘A-1’, and ‘C’ in terms of hair thickness and tensile strength. In other words, ‘C-2 (hair post-treated with a hair conditioner containing Muunsan extract)’ was the best, following only virgin hair in terms of hair thickness and tensile strength. In terms of absorbance, ‘C’ was the highest, followed by ‘A-1’, ‘B-1’, ‘A-2’, ‘B-2’, ‘C-1’, ‘C-2’ and ‘V’. In other words, ‘C-2’ was the lowest, following only virgin hair in terms of the damage index. According to the analysis of cuticle with SEM(Scanning Electron Microscope), scales were most firmly adherent to the scalp and associated hair in ‘C-2’ as exfoliation and unevenness were low. When essential hair components were analyzed by EDS(Energy Dispersive X-ray Spectro mrtry), ‘V’ was the highest with 6.37%, followed by ‘C-2’, ‘C-1’, ‘B-2’, ‘B-1’, ‘A-2’, ‘A-1’ and ‘C’ n terms of sulfur (‘S’) content. The above results proved the hair protection effects of Muunsan extract and confirmed that it would be viable as a new ingredient for hair cosmetics.

We characterized the adsorption and desorption of α-gel (α-form hydrated crystal) dispersions in aqueous media using a quartz crystal microbalance with dissipation monitoring (QCM-D) technique. The α-gel was formed from a mixture of N-[3-(dimethylamino)propyl]docosanamide (APA-22) L-lactic acid salt, 1-octadecanol (C18OH), and water. The solid substrate employed in this study as a model for hair was silica. The QCM-D measurements revealed that the α-gel dispersions yielded a rigid adsorption film on the negatively charged silica surface. The adsorption mass decreased with decreasing domain size (on the micrometer scale) of the α-gel dispersions. The adsorption film highly restricted the desorption of the α-gel from the silica surface even after rinsing with water. The adsorption film also exhibited excellent lubrication ability in aqueous media both before and after rinsing with water. We expect that the α-gel formed by APA-22 L-lactic acid is a potential ingredient for formulating an environment-friendly hair conditioner owing to its high adsorption, limited desorption, and excellent lubrication abilities on the solid surface.

Different hair types respond differently to cosmetic treatments; hence, many options ought to be availed to the consumer. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the use of antioxidant extract from Dicerocaryum senecioides as active alternatives in hair semi-permanent waving and hair conditioning.The antioxidant phytochemicals were first identified and isolated by thin-layer chromatography (TLC) and spraying with revealing agents. The antioxidant potency was determined by DPPH antiradical scavenging and ferric reducing power methods. The extract was incorporated in two different formulations to make the extract perm (bio-semi-permanent) and the antioxidant hair conditioner (AC). The formulations had their performance examined for hair curling and conditioning on Asian and African hair types. Hair damage was assessed by scanning the surface of treated samples on an attenuated total reflectance-Fourier transform infrared spectrometer (ATR-FTIR) and by quantifying lost protein on ultraviolet visible (UV-Vis) spectrophotometer.The extract antioxidant had an ICThe results show antioxidant extracts from Dicerocryum senecioides as a promising and safer alternative for hair conditioning and semi-permanent curling.CONTEXTE: les réactions aux traitements cosmétiques varient d’un type de cheveux à l’autre. Ainsi, de nombreuses options doivent être mises à disposition des consommateurs. Cette étude avait pour objectif d’évaluer l’utilisation d’un extrait antioxydant de Dicerocaryum senecioides en vue de proposer de nouveaux choix de produits actifs pour les mises en plis semi-permanentes et le conditionnement capillaire. MÉTHODES: les agents phytochimiques antioxydants ont d’abord été identifiés et isolés par chromatographie sur couche mince (CCM) et par pulvérisation d’agents révélateurs. La puissance antioxydante a été déterminée par une méthode de piégeage antiradicalaire à l’aide du DPPH et par un procédé de puissance de réduction du fer. L’extrait a été incorporé dans deux formulations différentes pour obtenir la permanente (semi-permanentes biologiques) et l’après-shampooing capillaire antioxydant. Les performances des formulations ont été évaluées selon des critères de bouclage et conditionnement capillaires sur des cheveux de types asiatiques et africains. L’évaluation des lésions capillaires reposait sur un examen de la surface des échantillons traités à l’aide d’un spectromètre infrarouge à transformée de Fourier en réflectance totale atténuée (attenuated total reflectance Fourier transform infra-red spectrometer, ATR-FTIR) et sur une quantification des protéines perdues à l’aide d’un spectrophotomètre à ultraviolet visible (UV-Vis). RÉSULTATS: l’extrait antioxydant présentait une concentration inhibitrice médiane (IC

Objective The tactile sensation of hair is an important consumer‐perceivable attribute. There are limited instrumental options to measure the haptic properties of hair. In this study, we introduce a novel technique using the acoustic emissions produced when skin comes in contact with dry hair in a stroking motion. Methods Using a free‐field microphone with a frequency response of 8–12,500 Hz, we recorded acoustic emission data of the interaction of skin with hair. Data were captured with Electroacoustics Toolbox software and analysed with Matlab. Acoustic emission profiles were generated allowing us to monitor the acoustic response at distinct frequencies. Results Various experiments were conducted to develop this novel technique as a suitable measure to monitor the surface properties of hair. Increasing the normal force and velocity of the interaction led to an increase in acoustic emissions. We also examined the acoustic profile of hair that underwent chemical treatment. For example, bleached hair produced a much higher magnitude acoustic response than the corresponding virgin hair. On the other hand, hair conditioner systems mitigated the acoustic response. Finally, investigations of textured hair revealed that the three‐dimensional structure of the hair fibre assembly and its ability to return to its original state when perturbed produce the most dominant acoustic response for this type of hair. Conclusion We introduce a cutting‐edge method to reproducibly evaluate the surface properties of hair. Different types of hair geometry produce unique acoustic profiles as do hair types that experience harsh damaging treatments. This is also a very practical and efficient way to evaluate the degree of protection or conditioning of the fibre., We developed an acoustic emission technique for measuring the sounds generated when two fingers slide along the length of a hair tress. Using acoustic analysis software, we captured their acoustic profiles and were able to differentiate between virgin and bleached straight hair (European dark brown). In addition, hair with increasing degrees of curvature (e.g., African, mulatto, etc.) produces a greater acoustic response.

Hair represents the “crowning glory of femininity for women and a deep-seated archaic symbol of masculinity for men.” Positioned under the skin surface, it is made by a biomaterial made of keratin and grows from follicles as a filament-like structure. It built from the spindle-shaped cortical cell which is surrounded by a sheath made of several layers of flat cuticle cells overlapping each other from root to tip along the hair, providing an imbricate surface. Moreover, hair, continually lubricated in its surface by fatty acids made up mainly from the 18-methyl eicosanoic acid (18-MEA), is coated with a hydrophobic film necessary to protect its structure from the environmental aggressions, such as UV exposure. Thus aggressive cosmetic treatments, such as excessive grooming, perming, bleaching, and permanent dying, may be the cause of 18-MEA loss and other cumulative damages on the keratin structure which, increasing the with-scales coefficient of friction among the fibers, provoke formation of splits on both surface and end of the hair, causing roughness, dryness, and the flyaway phenomenon. However, it is interesting to underline that most of the damages impaired to the hair are directly or indirectly related to the cystine chemistry, responsible for the cross-linking stability and tensile strength of its fibers. Human hair, in fact, is composed over 90% of keratin which has high disulfide bond content, derived from the amino acid cystine. When these bonds are damaged or broken, the characteristic flexibility of hair strands is lost and it becomes brittle, snarled, and frayed. Thus the necessity to use specific cosmetic products, such as hair conditioner and hair mask, based, for example, on the use of polysaccharide polymers effective to protect its fibrillar structure. Among the polymers, the effectiveness of chitin nanofibrils (CNs), chitin-derived compounds, and complexes with nanolignin is reported and discussed. The nanosize dimension of these natural polymers, in fact, seems to cross-link neighboring keratin molecules, repairing their broken disulfide and hydrogen bonds. Moreover, it has been shown the probable mechanism of action they have for protecting and repairing the hair structure from the environmental aggressions, reporting also the supposed CN’s effectiveness as hair regrowth compound able to act directly on its own papilla.

Made available in DSpace on 2021-06-25T11:08:35Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 0 Previous issue date: 2020-01-01 The appearance of the hair interferes with people's self-esteem and may indicate characteristics about their lifestyle. Due to their importance, hair treatment cosmetics correspond to a significant portion of the sector's sales. This research aimed to develop and characterize highly structured conditioners, prepared with avocado, wheat germ and grape seeds oils. The formulations were developed through a ternary phase diagram, using cationic surfactant (cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride), oily phase (mineral or vegetable oils) and aqueous phase. The formulations obtained were classified according to their aspect and viscosity, with the most appropriate ones chosen for the intended use. They were evaluated by polarized light microscopy (PLM) to verify the structure of the system and, also, by means of rheology, small angle X-ray scattering (SAXS) and sun protection factor (SPF) determination. After the classification of the formulations, the opaque and uniform ones, with intermediate viscosity, compatible with the application on the hair were chosen, guaranteeing acceptance by possible consumers. PLM offered images indicative of highly structured systems, confirmed by the SAXS technique. Rheology indicated that the use of vegetable oils, compared to mineral oil, generated formulations with slightly lower viscosity, allowing the choice of the formulation (12, of the ternary diagram) with higher viscosity among the others. Finally, the determination of the SPF did not indicate the ability to protect against ultraviolet radiation. Thus, in this study, a highly structured formulation, prepared with cationic surfactant and vegetable oils was developed, offering another possibility of an innovative product to consumers of hair cosmetics. Universidade de Araraquara UNIARA Universidade Estadual Paulista (UNESP) Faculdade de Ciências Farmacêuticas UNIFACISA Centro Universitário Universidade Estadual Paulista (UNESP) Faculdade de Ciências Farmacêuticas

Ximenia (Ximenia americana L.) is a shrub, or small tree, native from Africa and spread across different continents. In Angola, the seeds oil is used by local populations, to prevent sunburn, to smooth and hydrate the skin, and to give it a pleasant color and elasticity, to prevent stretch marks, in pregnant woman, and also as hair conditioner. Herein, an oil sold in the region (LPO), and two others extracted in laboratory, from seeds collected in the same region, were investigated in terms of their composition, chemical properties, UV transmission. The three oils are similar although the LPO is more acidic, 0.48 mg KOH/g. GC-MS analysis indicated that the major components are the fatty acids, oleic (31.82%), nervonic (11.09%), ximenic (10.22%), and hexacosa-17,20,23-trienoic acids (14.59%). Long chain fatty acids, n &ge, 20, accounted for 51.1% of the total fatty acids. A thin film of the oil showed a reduction in transmittance from 200 to 300 nm. Viscosity studies of the LPO indicated that at normal temperature of skin, the oil can be spread over the skin as a thin film. At concentrations up to 10 &micro, g/mL, the LPO is not toxic to human keratinocytes, suggesting the safety of this oil.

Associating the global trend of incorporating active compounds and plants in cosmetic formulations and the vast Brazilian biodiversity, the present work aimed to study the incorporation of Brazilian vegetable oils in hair conditioner formulations, evaluating the mechanical resistance of hair fibers. The following oils were incorporated into base formulations at 5.0 % (w/w): babassu, buriti, andiroba and pequi. The formulations were applied to samples of Caucasian hair, followed by several washing steps, then the evaluation of mechanical strength. It was found that there was no statistically significant difference in mechanical resistance between samples treated with oils and the control between the first and seventh wash cycles. This fact can be explained by the possible low penetration of oils into the cortex, a region responsible for the mechanical properties of the hair fiber, since the grease composition disfavors its diffusion. The common effects of vegetable oils on the cuticle, such as filling in cracks or cavities, lubrication, and increased protein hydrophobicity cannot be excluded. The oils tested in this work were not able to raise or protect hair tresses. However, additional studies are required in order to establish the effects of oil treatments, particularly in damaged hair.

Mercury is one of the skin-lightening ingredients in cosmetics as mercury ions are thought to inhibit the synthesis of the skin pigment melanin in melanocyte cells.The objective of this study was to evaluate the mercury levels of cosmetics currently marketed in Shijiazhuang, a northern city in China.We collected 146 random cosmetic samples and analyzed for mercury concentrations or levels by cold vapor atomic absorption spectrometry.Among the 146 samples, 134 (91.8%) were positive for mercury, and the concentrations of mercury ranged from not detectable to 592 ng/g. Cosmetic samples for children and babies had the highest detection rate (100%), followed by shampoo and hair conditioner (92.3%) and skin-lightening cream (92.0%). All of them were lower than the acceptable limit (1 μg/g) in China.Cosmetics for skin had the highest mean mercury content (45 ng/g), followed by hair products (42.1 ng/g). The concentrations of mercury detected in samples were lower than the current legal limit in China, indicating it may not pose a risk to consumers.

A risk assessment of benzalkonium chloride (BAC) was conducted based upon its toxicological profile and exposure evaluation. Since 1935, BAC has been used in a wide variety of products such as disinfectants, preservatives, and sanitizers. It is well-established that BAC is not genotoxic nor does it display tumorigenic potential, but safety concerns have been raised in local usage such as for ocular and intranasal applications. The Foundation of Korea Cosmetic Industry Institute (KCII) reported that in a hair conditioner manufactured as a cosmetic or personal product in South Korea, BAC was present at concentrations of 0.5-2%. The systemic exposure dosage (SED) was determined using the above in-use concentrations and a risk assessment analysis was conducted. The Margin of Safety (MOS) values for hair conditioners were calculated to be between 621 and 2,483. The risk of certain personal and cosmetic products was also assessed based upon assumptions that BAC was present at the maximal level of regulation in South Korea and that the maximal amount was used. The MOS values for the body lotion were all above 100, regardless of the application site. Collectively, data indicate that there are no safety concerns regarding use of products that contain BAC under the current concentration restrictions, even when utilized at maximal permitted levels. However, a chronic dermal toxicity study on BAC and comprehensive dermal absorption evaluation needs to be conducted to provide a more accurate prediction of the potential health risks to humans.

Many ornamental plant growing in tropical and subtropical regions one is Hibiscus which is a native plant from East Asia. Conditioner is one of semi solid preparation used to hair after using shampoo. The porpose of the research is getting formulation hair conditioner from Hibiscus with various concentration. This research is a descriptive analytic in the laboratory. Conditioner making with mix oil phase and melted water. The indrediens to be use are dimethicone, sethyl alcohol, stearic acid, TEA, glycerin, methyl paraben, propyl paraben and aquadest. Physical stability tests carried out were organoleptic test, homogeneity test, pH test and cream type test with various concentrations of hibiscus leaf mucus which were 15%, 20%, 25% and 30%, and as a comparison were the formulations of conditioner preparations without using hibiscus mucus . The results showed that the manufacture of conditioner with variations in the concentration of mucilage of hibiscus leaves (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis L.) and physical stability testing on formula 4 shows stable and softer textured results. The conclusion obtained is that formulas 1, 2, 3 and 4 have met the requirements of semi-solid preparations.

Head lice infestations are very common in children aged between 3 and 12 yr old. The eggs of the head louse are difficult to remove and remain firmly attached to the hair even after any head louse treatment. Solid in vitro and in vivo evidence to support the use of any of the proposed products to facilitate nit removal is scarce. The objective of the current study was to determine the efficacy of several products to remove eggshells from human hair using an objective measurement procedure. Water and ordinary hair conditioner significantly facilitated the removal of nits in vitro. We found no difference between ordinary conditioner and products specifically marketed for the purpose of nit removal. Other products such as formic acid solution and almond oil did not have a beneficial effect.

A conditioner containing lugworm autolysate was prepared, and its feasibility as a new conditioner was investigated. The treatment of hair with the conditioner, before and after dyeing showed positive effects on the thickness, weight, and amino acid contents of the hair. These properties were significantly enhanced, and similar results were obtained by hair surface examination by using scanning electron microscopy and tensile strength measurements. The surface of the cuticles in the experimental group was smoother than that of the control group, and the arrangement of the hair scales was maintained even after shampooing for 20 times. The hair tensile strength of the experimental group was significantly higher than that of the control group. The significant treatment effect of the conditioner containing lugworm autolysate could be attributed to the synergistic effect of adhesive strength and effective film formation properties of lugworm autolysate.

Various beauty care products involve surface interaction between the product and the skin surface they are applied to. Friction, adhesion and wear during sliding between the treated surface and the rubbing surfaces need to be optimized. Skin cream is used to improve skin health and create a smooth, soft, and flexible surface with moist perception by altering the surface roughness, friction, adhesion, elastic modulus, and surface charge of the skin surface. Rheology of skin cream as a function of cream thickness and strain rate and the binding interaction between skin cream and skin surface and operating environment are some of the important factors affecting the smooth feel and repair of the skin surface. Atomic force microscopy (AFM) and nanoindentation have recently become important tools for studying the micro/nanoscale properties of human hair, hair conditioner, skin, and skin cream. In this paper, we present an overview of the nanotribological and nanomechanical properties of skin with and without cream treatment as a function of operating environment. Relevant mechanisms are discussed. Next, the result of a triboelectrification study of skin with and without cream treatment is presented. Finally, an overview of attempts to develop a synthetic skin for research purposes is presented.

Estimating the effectiveness of waste prevention measures in place is one approach to promote waste prevention and reduce resource use. We estimated the amount of waste reduction induced by the use of refills for shampoo and hair conditioner in Japan using point-of-sales (POS) data collected by retailers. The amount of waste reduction estimated was about 276 in fiscal year 2000, and increased to about 54% in fiscal year 2008, contributing to a waste reduction of 14,700 tonnes in that year. The POS data indicated that the unit prices of refillable products were lower than those of non-refillable products, which would be the main reason for the successful proliferation of refill products. The applicability of using the POS data to estimate the amount of waste prevention for refill and other products was also examined. In cases where detailed product data exist and there is relatively a simple product substitution, the applicability of this methodology would be higher.

Eggs of the head louse, Pediculus capitis De Geer (Phthiraptera: Pediculidae), are difficult to remove because the female louse fixes them to hairs using a proteinaceous secretion that hardens within seconds. The persistent eggshells are harmless but unsightly and are often mistaken for an active infestation. Combing with a fine comb (nit comb) does not readily remove the eggs or empty eggshells because of the resilience of the fixative and both folk remedies and medical products have claimed to facilitate their removal. Measurement of the force required to initiate sliding of the egg fixative using a slip-peel tester was unable to detect evidence that any of three products which claimed to have egg-loosening properties (Step 2™ Nit Removal System, Clear® Lice Egg Remover, RID® Lice Egg Loosener Gel) had any activity or exerted any effect on the egg fixative beyond the lubricating effects conveyed by water or conventional hair conditioner.

A simple method for the simultaneous determination of a cationic surfactant (cetrimonium chloride) and four non-ionic surfactants (1-tetradecanol, 1-hexadecanol, 1-octadecanol and 1-eicosanol) has been developed. Direct extraction of the analytes from the sample with methanol and a subsequent separation using reversed-phase high-performance liquid chromatography with refractive index detection are the steps followed in the procedure. The column used was a Luna C18 and the mobile phase consisted of a 0.1 M KClO(4) solution prepared on a 95:5 mixture of methanol and water. This solution was adjusted to pH 2.8 with phosphoric acid. Recoveries close to 100% were obtained in spiked commercial hair conditioner samples for the surfactants assayed using this method. Limits of detection were 10.4, 16.7 and 22.9 mg kg(-1) of cetrimonium chloride, 1-hexadecanol, 1-hexadecanol and 1-1-octadecanol respectively. The methodology was successfully applied to nine commercial hair conditioners of several types and different brands. All hair conditioners but one contained at least two of the surfactants included in this study.

An accurate understanding of the usage patterns of consumer products is important for realistic exposure assessment. Since such patterns differ by country, a Korean national database for exposure factors is needed. We determined the exposure factors of 10 consumer products (face cleanser, toothpaste, shampoo, hair conditioner, body wash, dish and laundry detergents, fabric deodorizer, antistatic spray, and shoe polish. Field survey staff visited homes and collected product use information by questionnaire. In total, 816 men and 2517 women aged 15 years and older from 2500 households completed the questionnaire. Field technicians also re-visited 85 households to investigate the circumstances of use and the reliability of the questionnaire data. Greater than 97% of the sampled population reported use of toothpaste and shampoo. Hair conditioner, body wash, and face cleanser were used by ~60% of the population and by specific age groups and genders. The amount of consumer products used was comparable between that reported in the questionnaire and that measured directly during house visits, and the ratios of usage amounts ranged from 0.75 to 1.69. The exposure factor data obtained from this study could be useful for regulatory agencies when setting safety guidelines for product use.

Use of personal care products is widespread in the United States but tends to be greater among African Americans than whites. Of special concern is the possible hazard of absorption of chemicals with estrogenic activity (EA) or anti-EA (AEA) in these products. Such exposure may have adverse health effects, especially when it occurs during developmental windows (e.g., prepubertally) when estrogen levels are low. We assessed the ethanol extracts of eight commonly used hair and skin products popular among African Americans for EA and AEA using a cell proliferation assay with the estrogen sensitive MCF-7:WS8 cell line derived from a human breast cancer. Four of the eight personal care products tested (Oil Hair Lotion, Extra-dry Skin Lotion, Intensive Skin Lotion, Petroleum Jelly) demonstrated detectable EA, whereas three (Placenta Hair Conditioner, Tea-Tree Hair Conditioner, Cocoa Butter Skin Cream) exhibited AEA. Our data indicate that hair and skin care products can have EA or AEA, and suggest that laboratory studies are warranted to investigate the in vivo activity of such products under chronic exposure conditions as well as epidemiologic studies to investigate potential adverse health effects that might be associated with use of such products.

従来からヘアリンスの基材にはモノアルキルトリメチルアンモニウム塩 (MAC) やジアルキルジメチルアンモニウム塩 (DAC) が幅広く使用されているが, モノエタノールエステルジエチルモノメチルアンモニウム塩 (MEC) やジエタノールエステルジメチルアンモニウム塩 (DEC) のような生分解性の改善されたカチオン界面活性剤が今後, 新たなヘアリンスの基材として期待できる。そこで, われわれはヘアリンスとしての応用について, MACおよびDAC (アルキル型カチオン: AQ) を比較対照として, MECおよびDEC (エステル型カチオン: EQ) の性能を調べた。カチオン性界面活性剤の結合水量とケラチンパウダーヘの吸着量を測定した結果, 疎水基が同じ数のものどうしで比較するとAQよりもEQの方が多いという結果が得られ, エステル基の関与が示唆された。また, 毛髪に柔らかさを付与する効果はAQの方が大きいことがわかったが, DECはMACと同等の効果を示した。ヘアリンスでの官能評価の結果, EQはヘアリンス基材に応用できる可能性を示した。これらの結果より, EQを使用したヘアリンスは十分に使用可能であると判断され, とくにDECは新たなヘアリンス基材として非常に興味深いものと考える。

毛髪の「くし通り」はヘアケア製剤の重要な評価品質の一つである。われわれは「くし通り」の客観的評価法を検討し, コーミング動作を代用化する観点から多関節型ロボットを使用した新規評価装置を開発した。そして「くし通り」に影響を及ぼす処方因子を検証しその知見を製品化研究に応用することを目的として, ヘアリンス中のカチオン性界面活性剤が「くし通り」に及ぼす影響について, 開発法と従来の官能評価を比較した。その結果, 開発装置はカチオン性界面活性剤の配合量や種類による変化を精度よく検出することができ, 官能評価との相関が良好だった。すなわち, われわれが開発した客観的「くし通り」評価法は優れた評価法であり, 処方因子の影響を迅速に検出して製品化研究に応用できることが確認できた。一方, 本装置で健康毛とダメージ毛を測定した結果, その差が顕著に表れたことから, 製剤の評価だけではなく損傷毛の評価に対しても有効な手段であることが示唆された。

Synopsis Musks are synthetic fragrances applied on personal care and household products as fixatives, by retarding the release of other fragrances with higher volatility. Galaxolide is the most used polycyclic musk since the 90th decade, and it has been detected in several environmental and biological matrices, particularly in human tissues and fluids. For exposure assessment purposes, large-monitoring data need to be obtained and rapid but reliable analytical techniques are requested. The main objective of this study is to develop and validate a new and fast analytical methodology to quantify galaxolide in personal care products and to apply this method to real matrices like skin care products (creams and lotions), shower products (soap bar), hair care products (shampoo and hair conditioner) and oral care products (toothpaste), to evaluate the human dermal exposure risk. A dispersive solid-phase extraction is proposed, using QuEChERS methodology, followed by HPLC with fluorescence detection. Some extraction parameters were studied, like the ratio of sample/solvent amounts, the homogenization time, the salt addition effect and the used sorbents. The validation parameters of the developed method were the following: a linearity range of 0.0051.002mgkg1 sample, a limit of detection of 0.001mgkg1 sample, repeatability between 0.7% and 11.3% (variation coefficient of six standard injections), an intermediate precision of 2.5% (variation coefficient of six independent analysis of the same sample), mean recoveries ranging from 65% (soap bar) to 95% (body cream) and 3% of global uncertainty in most of the working range. The time of analysis, including the extraction steps, is 60min, allowing a throughput of 4samplesh1. Galaxolide was detected in all of the seven analysed products in concentrations ranging from 0.04 +/- 0.01mgkg1 sample (toothpaste) to 280.78 +/- 8.19mgkg1 sample (perfumed body cream), which may correspond to a significant estimated daily human dermal exposure of 904gday1. Resume Les muscs synthetiques sont des parfums appliques sur les produits de soin et les produits menagers comme fixateurs, qui retardent la liberation des autres parfums avec une volatilite plus elevee. Galaxolide est le plus utilise musc polycyclique depuis 20 ans, et il a ete detecte dans plusieurs matrices environnementales et biologiques, en particulier dans les tissus et les fluides humains. Aux fins d'evaluation d'exposition, de donnees de surveillance importantes doivent etre obtenues et des techniques analytiques rapides mais fiables sont donc demandes. L'objectif principal de cette etude est de developper et de valider une nouvelle methode analytique rapide et de quantifier le galaxolide dans les produits de soins, et d'appliquer cette methode pour les matrices reelles comme les produits de soins de la peau (cremes et lotions), les produits de douche (savon), produits de soins capillaires (shampoing et revitalisant capillaire) et les produits d'hygiene buccale (dentifrice), afin d'evaluer le risque d'exposition humaine par voie cutanee. Une extraction en phase solide dispersive est proposee, en utilisant une methodologie QuEChERS, suivie par HPLC avec detection par fluorescence. Certains parametres d'extraction ont ete etudies, comme le ratio des quantites d'echantillon/solvant, le temps d'homogeneisation, l'effet de sel d'addition et les adsorbants utilises. Les parametres de validation de la methode mise au point sont les suivants: une plage de linearite de 0.005 a 1.002 mg.kg1 d'echantillon, une limite de detection de 0,001 mg. kg1 de l'echantillon, la repetabilite entre 0,7 et 11,3% (coefficient de variation de six injections standard), une precision intermediaire de 2,5% (coefficient de variation de six analyses independantes de l'echantillon meme), recouvrements moyens allant de 65% (savon) a 95% (creme pour le corps), et 3 % d'incertitude globale dans la plupart des gammes de travail. Le temps d'analyse, comprenant les etapes d'extraction, est de 60 minutes, ce qui permet un debit de 4 samples.h1. Le galaxolide a ete detecte dans l'ensemble des sept produits analyses dans des concentrations allant de 0,04 +/- 0,01 mg.kg1 (dentifrice) a 280,78 +/- 8,19 mg.kg1 (creme parfumee pour le corps), ce qui peut representer une importante exposition cutanee quotidienne humaine de 904 g.jour1.

We measured consumer exposure to formaldehyde (FA) from personal care products (PCP) containing FA-releasing preservatives. Six study subjects applied facial moisturiser, foundation, shower gel, shampoo, deodorant, hair conditioner, hair styling gel or body lotion at the 90th percentile amount of EU PCP consumer use. FA air concentrations were measured in the empty room, in the presence of study subjects prior to PCP use, and for one hour (breathing zone, area monitoring) after PCP use. The mean FA air concentration in the empty bathroom was 1.32 ± 0.67 μg/m³, in the presence of subjects it was 2.33 ± 0.86 μg/m³). Except for body lotion and hair conditioner (6.2 ± 0.1.9 or 4.5 ± 0.1.5 μg/m³, respectively), mean 1-h FA air concentrations after PCP use were similar to background. Peak FA air concentrations, ranging from baseline values (2.2 μg/m³; shower gel) to 11.5 μg/m³ (body lotion), occurred during 0-5 to 5-10 min after PCP use. Despite of exaggerated exposure conditions, FA air levels were a fraction of those considered to be safe (120 μg/m³), occurring in indoor air (22-124 μg/m³) or expired human breath (1.4-87 μg/m³). Overall, our data yielded evidence that inhalation of FA from the use of PCP containing FA-releasers poses no risk to human health.