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Massimo Milani,1 Bita Hashtroody,2 Marco Piacentini,3 Leonardo Celleno31Medical Department, Cantabria Labs Difa Cooper, Caronno P, VA, Italy; 2Cantabria Labs Medical Department, Madrid, Spain; 3Eurofins Cosmetics & Personal Care, ItalyIntroduction: Air pollution causes skin damage and favors skin aging processes such as dark spots and wrinkles, through oxidative stress. Pollutant substances accelerate skin aging through a specific activation of intracellular receptors called AhR (aryl-hydrocarbon receptors). Deschampsia antartica aqueous extract (DAE) has shown to counteract the pollutant-induced AhR activation. Ferulic acid (FA) and vitamin C (VC) are potent antioxidant substances. A serum containing DAE/FA/VC has been recently developed. So far, no clinical data are available regarding the protective actions of this serum against the detrimental effects of air pollution on the skin.Objective: We conducted a prospective, single-blind, 28-day study to assess efficacy and protective effects against air pollution skin damage of a new serum containing Deschampsia antartica extract.Materials and methods: Twenty, photo type I–III, women (mean age 42 years) with at least three dark spots on the face, living in a homogenous urbanized, high pollution area (Rome) were evaluated. The objectives of the study were to evaluate the effects of treatment on skin barrier function, assessed by transepidermal water loss (TEWL) measurement (Tewameter), the effect on dark spots, evaluated by means of colorimetry (Colorimeter CL 400), and the effect on squalene peroxide (SQOOH)/squalene (SQ) skin ratio assessed with face swabs.Results: The trial was conducted between November 20 and December 19, 2018. In comparison with baseline, the product induced a significant improvement of skin hydration (−19% of TEWL), a significant improvement of dark spots (+7%) and a significant improvement of SQOOH/SQ ratio (−16%). The product was evaluated very well by >90% of the treated subjects regarding cosmetic acceptability.Discussion: A serum containing DAE/FA/VC has shown to improve skin barrier function, to reduce dark spots and to counteract the skin oxidative stress in women living in high pollution urban area.Keywords: Deschampsia antartica aqueous extract (DAE), air pollution, skin aging, Squalene

Glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) and associated proteoglycans have important functions in homeostatic maintenance and regenerative processes (e.g., wound repair) of the skin. However, little is known about the role of these molecules in the regulation of the hair follicle cycle. Here we report that growing human hair follicles ex vivo in a defined GAG hydrogel mimicking the dermal matrix strongly promotes sustained cell survival and maintenance of a highly proliferative phenotype in the hair bulb and suprabulbar regions. This significant effect is associated with the activation of WNT/β-catenin signaling targets (CCDN1, AXIN2) and with the expression of stem cell markers (CK15, CD34) and growth factors implicated in the telogen/anagen transition (TGFβ2, FGF10). As a whole, these results point to the dermal GAG matrix as an important component in the regulation of the human hair follicle growth cycle, and to GAG-based hydrogels as potentially relevant modulators of this process both in vitro and in vivo.