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The simultaneous analysis of different regulatory levels of biological phenomena by means of multi-omics data integration has proven an invaluable tool in modern precision medicine, yet many processes ultimately paving the way towards disease manifestation remain elusive and have not been studied in this regard. Here we investigated the early molecular events following repetitive UV irradiation of in vivo healthy human skin in depth on transcriptomic and epigenetic level. Our results provide first hints towards an immediate acquisition of epigenetic memories related to aging and cancer and demonstrate significantly correlated epigenetic and transcriptomic responses to irradiation stress. The data allowed the precise prediction of inter-individual UV sensitivity, and molecular subtyping on the integrated post-irradiation multi-omics data established the existence of three latent molecular phototypes. Importantly, further analysis suggested a form of melanin-independent DNA damage protection in subjects with higher innate UV resilience. This work establishes a high-resolution molecular landscape of the acute epidermal UV response and demonstrates the potential of integrative analyses to untangle complex and heterogeneous biological responses.

Fiber structures play a major role for the function of fiber-reinforced materials such as biological tissue. An objective classification of the fiber orientations into fiber families is crucial to understand its mechanical properties. We introduce the Fiber Image Network Evaluation Algorithm (FINE algorithm) to classify and quantify the number of fiber families in scientific images. Each fiber family is characterized by an amplitude, a mean orientation, and a dispersion. A new alignment index giving the averaged fraction of aligned fibers is defined. The FINE algorithm is validated by realistic grayscale Monte-Carlo fiber images. We apply the algorithm to an in-vivo depth scan of second harmonic generation images of dermal collagen in human skin. The derived alignment index exhibits a crossover at a critical depth where two fiber families with a perpendicular orientation around the main tension line arise. This strongly suggests the presence of a transition from the papillary to the reticular dermis. Hence, the FINE algorithm provides a valuable tool for a reliable classification and a meaningful interpretation of in-vivo collagen fiber networks and general fiber reinforced materials.

In recent years, reports of non-linear regulations in age- and longevity-associated biological processes have been accumulating. Inspired by methodological advances in precision medicine involving the integrative analysis of multi-omics data, we sought to investigate the potential of multi-omics integration to identify distinct stages in the aging progression from ex vivo human skin tissue. For this we generated transcriptome and methylome profiling data from suction blister lesions of female subjects between 21 and 76 years, which were integrated using a network fusion approach. Unsupervised cluster analysis on the combined network identified four distinct subgroupings exhibiting a significant age-association. As indicated by DNAm age analysis and Hallmark of Aging enrichment signals, the stages captured the biological aging state more clearly than a mere grouping by chronological age and could further be recovered in a longitudinal validation cohort with high stability. Characterization of the biological processes driving the phases using machine learning enabled a data-driven reconstruction of the order of Hallmark of Aging manifestation. Finally, we investigated non-linearities in the mid-life aging progression captured by the aging phases and identified a far-reaching non-linear increase in transcriptional noise in the pathway landscape in the transition from mid- to late-life.

Aging of the skin is accompanied by cellular as well as tissue environmental changes, ultimately reducing the ability of the tissue to regenerate and adequately respond to external stressors. Macrophages are important gatekeepers of tissue homeostasis, and it has been reported that their number and phenotype change during aging in a site-specific manner. How aging affects human skin macrophages and what implications this has for the aging process in the tissue are still not fully understood. Using single-cell RNA-sequencing analysis, we show that there is at least a 50% increase of macrophages in human aged skin, which appear to have developed from monocytes and exhibit more proinflammatory M1-like characteristics. In contrast, the cell-intrinsic ability of aged monocytes to differentiate into M1 macrophages was reduced. Using coculture experiments with aged dermal fibroblasts, we show that it is the aged microenvironment that drives a more proinflammatory phenotype of macrophages in the skin. This proinflammatory M1-like phenotype in turn negatively influenced the expression of extracellular matrix proteins by fibroblasts, emphasizing the impact of the aged macrophages on the skin phenotype.

Tyrosinase is the rate-limiting enzyme of melanin production and, accordingly, is the most prominent target for inhibiting hyperpigmentation. Numerous tyrosinase inhibitors have been identified, but most of those lack clinical efficacy because they were identified using mushroom tyrosinase as the target. Therefore, we used recombinant human tyrosinase to screen a library of 50,000 compounds and compared the active screening hits with well-known whitening ingredients. Hydroquinone and its derivative arbutin only weakly inhibited human tyrosinase with a half-maximal inhibitory concentration (IC50) in the millimolar range, and kojic acid showed a weak efficacy (IC50 > 500 μmol/L). The most potent inhibitors of human tyrosinase identified in this screen were resorcinyl-thiazole derivatives, especially the newly identified Thiamidol (Beiersdorf AG, Hamburg, Germany) (isobutylamido thiazolyl resorcinol), which had an IC50 of 1.1 μmol/L. In contrast, Thiamidol only weakly inhibited mushroom tyrosinase (IC50 = 108 μmol/L). In melanocyte cultures, Thiamidol strongly but reversibly inhibited melanin production (IC50 = 0.9 μmol/L), whereas hydroquinone irreversibly inhibited melanogenesis (IC50 = 16.3 μmol/L). Clinically, Thiamidol visibly reduced the appearance of age spots within 4 weeks, and after 12 weeks some age spots were indistinguishable from the normal adjacent skin. The full potential of Thiamidol to reduce hyperpigmentation of human skin needs to be explored in future studies.

Patients suffering from type II diabetes develop several skin manifestations including cutaneous infections, diabetic dermopathy, diabetic bullae and acanthosis nigricans. Diabetic micro- and macroangiopathy as well as diabetic neuropathy are believed to play a crucial role in the development of diabetic skin disorders. A reduced cutaneous nerve fibre density was reported in diabetic subjects, which subsequently leads to impaired sensory nerve functions. Using an innervated skin model, we investigated the impact of human diabetic dermal fibroblasts and keratinocytes on porcine sensory neurons. Diabetic skin cells showed a reduced capacity to induce neurite outgrowth due to a decreased support with neurotrophic factors, such as NGF. Furthermore, diabetic keratinocytes displayed insulin resistance and increased expression of pro-inflammatory cytokines demonstrating the persistent effect of diabetes mellitus on human skin cells. Dysregulations were related to a significantly reduced glyoxalase enzyme activity in diabetic keratinocytes as experimentally reduced glyoxalase activity mimicked the increase in pro-inflammatory cytokine expression and reduction in NGF. Our results demonstrate an impaired crosstalk of diabetic skin cells and sensory neurons favouring hypo-innervation. We suggest that reduced methylglyoxal detoxification contributes to an impaired neurocutaneous interaction in diabetic skin.

Summary Epigenetic changes represent an attractive mechanism for understanding the phenotypic changes associated with human aging. Age-related changes in DNA methylation at the genome scale have been termed ‘epigenetic drift’, but the defining features of this phenomenon remain to be established. Human epidermis represents an excellent model for understanding age-related epigenetic changes because of its substantial cell-type homogeneity and its well-known age-related phenotype. We have now generated and analyzed the currently largest set of human epidermis methylomes (N = 108) using array-based profiling of 450 000 methylation marks in various age groups. Data analysis confirmed that age-related methylation differences are locally restricted and characterized by relatively small effect sizes. Nevertheless, methylation data could be used to predict the chronological age of sample donors with high accuracy. We also identified discontinuous methylation changes as a novel feature of the aging methylome. Finally, our analysis uncovered an age-related erosion of DNA methylation patterns that is characterized by a reduced dynamic range and increased heterogeneity of global methylation patterns. These changes in methylation variability were accompanied by a reduced connectivity of transcriptional networks. Our findings thus define the loss of epigenetic regulatory fidelity as a key feature of the aging epigenome.

Background More than 50% of adults report to suffer from sensitive skin. This common condition is characterized by subjective sensations such as prickling, burning, skin tightness or pruritus, and is often accompanied by objective symptoms like inflammation and erythema. Objective The objective of this study was to develop an active ingredient concept for the treatment of sensitive skin. We tested compounds regarding their potential to (i) decrease the release of proinflammatory mediators, which among others induce erythema and (ii) counteract the hyperresponsiveness of nerve fibres and, thus, exert effects on cutaneous neurosensory dysfunction. Methods 4-t-butylcyclohexanol, licochalcone A and acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester were analysed in vitro regarding their potential to (i) decrease the release of PGE2 and activation of NFκB and to (ii) inhibit TRPV1 activation or the release of neuronal CGRP. To assess subjective and objective symptoms of skin sensitivity in vivo, two controlled, single-blind, randomized studies were conducted with 4-t-butylcyclohexanol and the combination with licochalcone A. Results In vitro, 4-t-butylcyclohexanol significantly reduced TRPV1 activation, while acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester had no effect on receptor activation. Licochalcone A significantly decreased NFκB signalling and PGE2 secretion, at lower concentrations than acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester. A formulation containing 4-t-butylcyclohexanol showed a significant immediate anti-stinging/anti-burning effect in vivo, and a cream base containing a combination of 4-t-butylcyclohexanol and a licochalcone A-rich licorice extract reduced shaving-induced erythema. Conclusion In vitro and in vivo data indicate that the combination of the TRPV1 antagonist 4-t-butylcyclohexanol and the potent anti-inflammatory licochalcone A provide an effective active ingredient concept for the treatment of sensitive skin, as the topical application resulted in an immediate relief from symptoms such as erythema and stinging.

Integrity of human skin is endangered by exposure to UV irradiation and chemical stressors, which can provoke a toxic production of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and oxidative damage. Since oxidation of proteins and metabolites occurs virtually instantaneously, immediate cellular countermeasures are pivotal to mitigate the negative implications of acute oxidative stress. We investigated the short-term metabolic response in human skin fibroblasts and keratinocytes to H2O2 and UV exposure. In time-resolved metabolomics experiments, we observed that within seconds after stress induction, glucose catabolism is routed to the oxidative pentose phosphate pathway (PPP) and nucleotide synthesis independent of previously postulated blocks in glycolysis (i.e., of GAPDH or PKM2). Through ultra-short (13)C labeling experiments, we provide evidence for multiple cycling of carbon backbones in the oxidative PPP, potentially maximizing NADPH reduction. The identified metabolic rerouting in oxidative and non-oxidative PPP has important physiological roles in stabilization of the redox balance and ROS clearance.

Wound healing is a multistage process involving collaborative efforts of different cell types and distinct cellular functions. Among others, the high metabolic activity at the wound site requires the formation and sprouting of new blood vessels (angiogenesis) to ensure an adequate supply of oxygen and nutrients for a successful healing process. Thus, a cutaneous wound healing model was established to identify new factors that are involved in vascular formation and remodeling in human skin after embryonic development. By analyzing global gene expression of skin biopsies obtained from wounded and unwounded skin, we identified a small set of genes that were highly significant differentially regulated in the course of wound healing. To initially investigate whether these genes might be involved in angiogenesis, we performed siRNA experiments and analyzed the knockdown phenotypes using a scratch wound assay which mimics cell migration and proliferation in vitro. The results revealed that a subset of these genes influence cell migration and proliferation in primary human endothelial cells (EC). Furthermore, histological analyses of skin biopsies showed that two of these genes, ALBIM2 and TMEM121, are colocalized with CD31, a well known EC marker. Taken together, we identified new genes involved in endothelial cell biology, which might be relevant to develop therapeutics not only for impaired wound healing but also for chronic inflammatory disorders and/or cardiovascular diseases.

CXCL5 has recently been identified as a mediator of UVB-induced pain in rodents. To compare and to extend previous knowledge of cutaneous CXCL5 regulation, we performed a comprehensive study on the effects of UV radiation on CXCL5 regulation in human skin. Our results show a dose-dependent increase in CXCL5 protein in human skin after UV radiation. CXCL5 can be released by different cell types in the skin. We presumed that, in addition to immune cells, non-immune skin cells also contribute to UV-induced increase in CXCL5 protein. Analysis of monocultured dermal fibroblasts and keratinocytes revealed that only fibroblasts but not keratinocytes displayed up regulated CXCL5 levels after UV stimulation. Whereas UV treatment of human skin equivalents, induced epidermal CXCL5 mRNA and protein expression. Up regulation of epidermal CXCL5 was independent of keratinocyte differentiation and keratinocyte-keratinocyte interactions in epidermal layers. Our findings provide first evidence on the release of CXCL5 in UV-radiated human skin and the essential role of fibroblast-keratinocyte interaction in the regulation of epidermal CXCL5.

The retrochalcone licochalcone A (LicA) has previously been shown to possess antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties. In this study, we focused on pathways responsible for the antioxidative properties of LicA. In vitro, LicA protected from oxidative stress mediated by reactive oxygen species (ROS) by activating the expression of cytoprotective phase II enzymes. LicA induced nuclear translocation of NF-E2-related factor 2 (Nrf2) in primary human fibroblasts and elevated the expression of the cytoprotective and anti-inflammatory enzymes heme oxygenase 1 and glutamate-cysteine ligase modifier subunit. LicA-treated cells displayed a higher ratio of reduced to oxidized glutathione and decreased concentrations of ROS in UVA-irradiated human dermal fibroblasts, as well as in activated neutrophils. In vivo, ultraweak photon emission analysis of skin treated with LicA-rich licorice extract revealed a significantly lowered UVA-induced luminescence, indicative for a decrease in oxidative processes. We conclude from these data that topical application of licorice extract is a promising approach to induce Nrf2-dependent cytoprotection in human skin.

We have previously shown that precursors of odorous components characteristic of axillary sweat are hardly detectable or undetectable in individuals carrying the 538G > A SNP in the ABCC11 transporter gene. However, it is unclear, whether ABCC11 is directly involved in the transport of these compounds. To approach this question, transport of peptide-conjugated potential precursors of 3-methyl-3-sulfanylhexanol (3M3SH), a key determinant of axillary malodour, was measured using membrane vesicles of Sf9 insect cells overexpressing human ABCC11. Whilst no ABCC11-mediated transport was detected for the dipeptide precursor Cys-Gly-3M3SH, the glutathione conjugate of 3M3SH (SG-3M3SH) was robustly taken up by ABCC11 at a transport rate of 0.47 pmol/mg/min. Collectively, these results illuminate SG-3M3SH as a putative precursor of 3M3SH, which then may undergo intra-vesicular maturation to generate Cys-Gly-3M3SH. Critically, the apocrine sweat gland was demonstrated to express γ-glutamyl transferase 1 (GGT1) protein, which is known to catalyse the deglutamylation of glutathionyl conjugates. Additionally, we provide evidence that recombinant and isolated hepatic human GGT1 is capable of transforming SG-3M3SH to Cys-Gly-3M3SH in vitro. To sum up, we demonstrate that the functionality of ABCC11 is likely to play an important role in the generation of axillary malodour. Furthermore, we identify GGT1 as a key enzyme involved in the biosynthesis of Cys-Gly-3M3SH.

Background Collagen is the most abundant protein in human skin and is responsible for its resilience. In particular during photoaging, collagen homeostasis is out of balance leading to a continuous loss of intact collagen and to the observed signs of aged skin such as diminished tensile strength and wrinkle development. The process of collagen turnover is very slow and the relevance of cellular uptake of damaged collagen, most likely mediated via Endo180 or integrin α2β1, still remains a matter of investigation. Objective We investigated the role of different collagen receptors on dermal fibroblasts for collagen internalization and their impact on collagen homeostasis during photoaging. Methods TaqMan Real-Time PCR, flow cytometry, UV irradiation, knockdown experiments and immunostaining. Results We show that Endo180 and integrin α2 are regulated in photoaged skin and after acute UV stress in vivo and in vitro. Knockdown experiments revealed that Endo180 is essential for cellular uptake of collagen fragments by dermal fibroblasts, whereas integrin α2 is important for initial binding of collagen. UV irradiation decreases collagen endocytosis. This correlates with reduced Endo180 expression and pericellular accumulation of collagen fragments during photoaging. Conclusion Our findings correlate for the first time impaired collagen uptake via Endo180 with the pericellular accumulation of collagen fragments during photoaging. We assume an altered pericellular niche of fibroblasts in photoaged skin that has an impact on collagen homeostasis.

Mitochondria form dynamic networks which adapt to the environmental requirements of the cell. We investigated the aging process of these networks in human skin cells in vivo by multiphoton microscopy. A study on the age-dependency of the mitochondrial network in young and old volunteers revealed that keratinocytes in old skin establish a significantly more fragmented network with smaller and more compact mitochondrial clusters than keratinocytes in young skin. Furthermore, we investigated the mitochondrial network during differentiation processes of keratinocytes within the epidermis of volunteers. We observe a fragmentation similar to the age-dependent study in almost all parameters. These parallels raise questions about the dynamics of biophysical network structures during aging processes.

Numerous studies have shown that extracellular matrix (ECM)-based scaffolds are suitable for dermal constructs for the differentiation of various cell types in vitro and for constructive tissue remodeling after implantation in vivo. However, a shortcoming of these ECM materials is its limited elastogenesis. Elastic fibers constitute an essential component of mammalian connective tissue and the presence of elastic fibers is crucial for the proper function of the cardiovascular, pulmonary, and intestinal systems. Since it is still largely unknown how cells coordinate the molecular events of elastic-fiber assembly, understanding the ability to regenerate elastic fibers in tissues remains a significant challenge. For this reason, human neonatal dermal fibroblasts (HDFneo) were analyzed for their potential to serve as a cell culture model for elastic fiber assembly. Using optical technologies such as multiphoton laser-scanning microscopy (MPSLM) we demonstrate that HDFneo stimulated with transforming growth factor β1 (TGF-β1) are able to produce a distinct and complex elastic fiber system in vitro. As shown by the desmosine and isodesmosine content, crosslinked elastic fibers were formed within the 3D ECM-based scaffold. This tissue-engineered dermal construct may prove to be an effective template for the development of medicinal approaches in regenerative soft skin tissue reconstruction through TGF-β1 induction.

Background Aging human skin undergoes significant morphological and functional changes such as wrinkle formation, reduced wound healing capacity, and altered epidermal barrier function. Besides known age-related alterations like DNA-methylation changes, metabolic adaptations have been recently linked to impaired skin function in elder humans. Understanding of these metabolic adaptations in aged skin is of special interest to devise topical treatments that potentially reverse or alleviate age-dependent skin deterioration and the occurrence of skin disorders. Results We investigated the global metabolic adaptions in human skin during aging with a combined transcriptomic and metabolomic approach applied to epidermal tissue samples of young and old human volunteers. Our analysis confirmed known age-dependent metabolic alterations, e.g. reduction of coenzyme Q10 levels, and also revealed novel age effects that are seemingly important for skin maintenance. Integration of donor-matched transcriptome and metabolome data highlighted transcriptionally-driven alterations of metabolism during aging such as altered activity in upper glycolysis and glycerolipid biosynthesis or decreased protein and polyamine biosynthesis. Together, we identified several age-dependent metabolic alterations that might affect cellular signaling, epidermal barrier function, and skin structure and morphology. Conclusions Our study provides a global resource on the metabolic adaptations and its transcriptional regulation during aging of human skin. Thus, it represents a first step towards an understanding of the impact of metabolism on impaired skin function in aged humans and therefore will potentially lead to improved treatments of age related skin disorders. Electronic supplementary material The online version of this article (doi:10.1186/s12864-017-3547-3) contains supplementary material, which is available to authorized users.

Background Hyperpigmentary disorders like melasma, actinic and senile lentigines are a major cosmetic concern. Therefore, many topical products are available, containing various active ingredients aiming to reduce melanin production and distribution. The most prominent target for inhibitors of hyperpigmentation is tyrosinase, the key regulator of melanin production. Many inhibitors of tyrosinase are described in the literature; however, most of them lack clinical efficacy. Methods We were interested in evaluating the inhibition of skin pigmentation by well-known compounds with skin-whitening activity like hydroquinone, arbutin, kojic acid and 4-n-butylresorcinol. We compared the inhibition of human tyrosinase activity in a biochemical assay as well as inhibition of melanin production in MelanoDerm™ skin model culture. For some compounds, the in vivo efficacy was tested in clinical studies. Results Arbutin and hydroquinone only weakly inhibit human tyrosinase with a half maximal inhibitory concentration (IC50) in the millimolar range. Kojic acid is 10 times more potent with an IC50 of approximately 500 μmol/L. However, by far the most potent inhibitor of human tyrosinase is 4-n-butylresorcinol with an IC50 of 21 μmol/L. In artificial skin models, arbutin was least active with an IC50 for inhibition of melanin production > 5000 μmol/L. Kojic acid inhibited with an IC50 > 400 μmol/L. Interestingly, hydroquinone inhibited melanin production in MelanoDerms with an IC50 below 40 μmol/L, probably due to a mechanism different from tyrosinase inhibition. Again, 4-n-butylresorcinol was the most potent inhibitor with an IC50 of 13.5 μmol/L. In vivo efficacy of 4-n-butyl-resorcinol was confirmed in clinical studies. Subjects with age spots on the forearm treated twice daily two age spots with a formula containing 4-n-butylresorcinol and two control age spots with the corresponding vehicle. Within 8 weeks, 4-n-butylresorcinol reduced visibly the appearance of age spots, while the control spots showed no improvement. A second study showed that 4-butylresorcinol was more effective than 4-hexylresorcinol and 4-phenylethylresorcinol. Conclusion The present in vitro and in vivo data prove the high inhibitory capacity of 4-n-butylresorcinol on human tyrosinase activity, exceeding by far the potency of hydroquinone, arbutin and kojic acid. The resulting clinical improvement of skin hyperpigmentations reveals 4-n-butylresorcinol as a very valuable active compound for the management of pigmentation disorders.

Circadian clocks govern a wide range of cellular and physiological functions in various organisms. Recent evidence suggests distinct functions of local clocks in peripheral mammalian tissues such as immune responses and cell cycle control. However, studying circadian action in peripheral tissues has been limited so far to mouse models, leaving the implication for human systems widely elusive. In particular, circadian rhythms in human skin, which is naturally exposed to strong daytime-dependent changes in the environment, have not been investigated to date on a molecular level. Here, we present a comprehensive analysis of circadian gene expression in human epidermis. Whole-genome microarray analysis of suction-blister epidermis obtained throughout the day revealed a functional circadian clock in epidermal keratinocytes with hundreds of transcripts regulated in a daytime-dependent manner. Among those, we identified a circadian transcription factor, Krüppel-like factor 9 ( Klf9 ), that is substantially up-regulated in a cortisol and differentiation-state-dependent manner. Gain- and loss-of-function experiments showed strong antiproliferative effects of Klf9 . Putative Klf9 target genes include proliferation/differentiation markers that also show circadian expression in vivo, suggesting that Klf9 affects keratinocyte proliferation/differentiation by controlling the expression of target genes in a daytime-dependent manner.

Summary Background Oily skin condition is caused by an excessive sebaceous gland activity, resulting in an overproduction of sebum, giving the skin an undesired shiny, oily appearance. Aims To identify an active substance that reduces sebum production in human sebaceous glands by regulating fat metabolism in a natural way. Patients/Methods The effects of l-carnitine on β-oxidation and intracellular lipid content were investigated in vitro using the human sebaceous cell line SZ95. Penetration experiments utilizing pig skin as a model system were performed with a cosmetic formulation containing radioactively labeled l-carnitine. To determine the in vivo effects, a vehicle-controlled, randomized study was carried out using a cosmetic formulation containing 2%l-carnitine for 3 weeks. Sebum production was investigated utilizing the lipid-absorbent Sebutape®. Results SZ95 cells treated with 0.5% or 1%l-carnitine demonstrated a significant concentration-dependent increase in β-oxidation compared to control cells. Following the treatment with l-carnitine, intracellular lipid concentrations decreased significantly in a dose-dependent manner compared with untreated control cells. In skin penetration experiments, topically applied l-carnitine reached the dermis. In addition, topical in vivo application of a formulation containing 2%l-carnitine for 3 weeks significantly decreased the sebum secretion rate compared to the treatment with vehicle. Conclusions Our results show that the treatment of human sebocytes with l-carnitine significantly augments β-oxidation and significantly decreases intracellular lipid content in human sebocytes. Topically applied l-carnitine is bioavailable and leads to a significant sebum reduction in vivo. In conclusion, l-carnitine represents a valuable compound, produced naturally within the body, for the topical treatment of oily skin in humans.

Synopsis In dermal photodamage the ratio of the collagen types III to I changes. This makes the investigation of the fibrillar collagen type characteristics interesting for skin research. In this study collagen types were characterized using 5-dimensional multiphoton laser scanning microscopy (5D-IVT) that can be applied in vivo. Second harmonic generation (SHG) signals and fluorescence lifetimes of the collagen autofluorescence were analysed. Collagen type I generates a higher SHG intensity and a longer fluorescence lifetime compared to collagen type III. Thus, the SHG intensity decrease found in photodamaged skin might be explained by the increase in collagen type III. Calculating the in vivo relevant increase of collagen type III gives a negligible difference in fluorescence lifetime not qualifying this method for the determination of collagen type changes in dermal photodamage in vivo in human skin. However, for pathologies that exhibit higher differences in collagen types 5D-IVT analysis might be a suitable method.

Hormone concentrations decline with aging. Up to now it was not clear, whether the decrease of hormone concentrations in blood samples are also present in cutaneous suction blister fluids, and whether skin from different anatomical sites shows different hormone concentrations. Analysis of suction blister fluids and paired blood samples from young (mean 27.8 y) and old (mean 62.6 y) male subjects by UPLC-MS/MS showed that DHEA concentration in blood samples was age-dependently significantly reduced, but increased in suction blister fluids, while androstenedione behaved in an opposite manner to DHEA. Testosterone decreased age-dependently in blood samples and in suction blister fluids. Regarding skin sites, DHEA was lower in samples from upper back compared with samples from the forearm. In contrast, the concentrations of androstenedione and testosterone were higher in samples from upper back. In vitro analyses showed that SZ95 sebocytes, but neither primary fibroblasts nor keratinocytes, were able to use DHEA as precursor for testosterone biosynthesis, which was confirmed by expression analysis of 3β-hydroxysteroiddehydrogenase in skin biopsies. In conclusion, we show an inverse pattern of DHEA and androstenedione concentrations in blood vs. suction blister fluids, highlighting age-dependent changes of dermal testosterone biosynthesis, and a stronger metabolism in young skin. Furthermore, sebocytes play a central role in cutaneous androgen metabolism.

Summary Background The dermal extracellular matrix provides stability and structure to the skin. With increasing age, however, its major component collagen is subject to degeneration, resulting in a gradual decline in skin elasticity and progression of wrinkle formation. Previous studies suggest that the reduction in cellular energy contributes to the diminished synthesis of cutaneous collagen during aging. Aims To investigate the potential of topically applied creatine to improve the clinical signs of skin aging by stimulating dermal collagen synthesis in vitro and in vivo. Patients/Methods Penetration experiments were performed with a pig skin ex vivo model. Effects of creatine on dermal collagen gene expression and procollagen synthesis were studied in vitro using cultured fibroblast-populated collagen gels. In a single-center, controlled study, 43 male Caucasians applied a face-care formulation containing creatine, guarana extract, and glycerol to determine its influence on facial topometric features. Results Cultured human dermal fibroblasts supplemented with creatine displayed a stimulation of collagen synthesis relative to untreated control cells both on the gene expression and at the protein level. In skin penetration experiments, topically applied creatine rapidly reached the dermis. In addition, topical in vivo application of a creatine-containing formulation for 6 weeks significantly reduced the sagging cheek intensity in the jowl area as compared to baseline. This result was confirmed by clinical live scoring, which also demonstrated a significant reduction in crow’s feet wrinkles and wrinkles under the eyes. Conclusions In summary, creatine represents a beneficial active ingredient for topical use in the prevention and treatment of human skin aging.

Background/purpose: Collagen is the major structural protein of the skin and its crosslinks are essential for its mechanical stability. In photodamaged skin, a decrease of the mature collagen crosslink histidinohydroxylysino-norleucine was reported. In this study, we investigated the consequences and measurability of the reduced crosslinking. Methods: In order to determine the consequences of reduced collagen crosslinking, in vitro models of reduced collagen crosslinking were established. The collagen synthesis and structure was analyzed using the signals second harmonic generation (SHG) and the fluorescence lifetime of the collagen autofluorescence by a multiphoton laser scanning microscope. Results: Reduced collagen crosslinking results in a posttranscriptionally diminished collagen synthesis, a modified structure of the collagen fibers and fibrils and a higher intensity of the SHG signal. The SHG signal might be influenced by the interspaces of the collagen molecules within one collagen fibril. Because of these findings, it can be speculated that reduced collagen crosslinking changes the interspace of single collagen molecules within the collagen fibril, resulting in an enhanced SHG signal. Alternative explanations are discussed. Furthermore, the fluorescence lifetime was reduced in the in vitro models of reduced collagen crosslinking. In the crosslink sites of the collagen molecules, the main ratio of fluorescence is found. As the fluorescence lifetime is determined not only by the fluorescent molecule itself but also by its microenvironment, the change in the fluorescence lifetime might be explained by reduced crosslinking at the crosslink site. Conclusion: A reduction of collagen crosslinking (as seen in photodamaged skin) results in an increase of the SHG signal and a decrease of the fluorescence lifetime in vitro. In vivo measurements of the two parameters might reveal the status of collagen crosslinking and therefore help to identify the status of dermal photodamage or pathogenesis using collagen crosslinking determination.

Summary Background The decrease in firmness is a hallmark of skin aging. Accelerated by chronic sun exposure, fundamental changes occur within the dermal extracellular matrix over the years, mainly impairing the collagenous network. Aims Based on the qualitative and quantitative assessment of skin firmness, in vitro and in vivo studies were carried out to elucidate the effects of topical folic acid and creatine to counteract this age-dependent reduction in the amount of collagen. Patients/Methods Topical application of a commercially available formulation containing folic acid and creatine was performed to study effects on skin firmness in vivo using cutometric analysis. Imaging and quantification of collagen density were carried out using multiphoton laser scanning microscopy (MPLSM). To investigate the effects of these compounds on collagen gene expression, procollagen synthesis, and collagen fibril organization, complementary in vitro studies on cultured fibroblast-populated collagen gels were carried out. Results The underlying structural changes in the collagen network of young and aged sun-exposed facial skin in vivo were visualized by MPLSM. Topical application of a folic acid- and creatine-containing formulation significantly improved firmness of mature skin in vivo. Treatment of fibroblast-populated dermal equivalents with folic acid and creatine increased collagen gene expression and procollagen levels and improved collagen fiber density, suggesting that the in vivo effects are based on the overall improvement of the collagen metabolism. Conclusions Employing MPLSM, dermal changes occurring in photo-aged human skin were visualized in an unprecedented manner and correlated to a loss of firmness. Treatment of aged skin with a topical formulation containing folic acid and creatine counteracted this age-dependent decline by exerting sustained effects on collagen metabolism. Our results support previous findings on the efficacy of these actives.

Background/purpose: To automatically assess hair growth during cosmetic trials, incorporating parameters such as anagen-to-telogen rate, growth rate, and especially hair diameter. Methods: We designed and qualified a new and automatic phototrichogram system based on a high-resolution DSLR camera system (theoretical resolution of 2.557 μm/pixel) and modular macrolens system with fixed focus, combined with a trainable pattern recognition software for automated analysis. Results: We improved the standard routine for dermatological phototrichogram technique to overcome inaccuracy in thickness measurements due to hair swelling by using an alternative immersion fluid, and increased the effective resolution for hair size and thickness measurement to 90% correlation, and by comparing the automatic results with manual measurements of the same images without individual hair annotation, we could find a correlation of at least 80%. Conclusion: According to the results and findings generated in this qualification study, we have a reliable tool now that enables us to test cosmetic products for hair treatment in a highly automated way with a sufficient degree of precision and accuracy to detect even small changes in hair diameter during cosmetic trials.

Cholesterol is organized in distinctive liquid-ordered micro-domains within biological membranes called lipid rafts. These micro-domains direct multiple physiological functions in mammalian cells by modulating signaling processes. Recent findings suggest a role for lipid rafts in cellular processes in human keratinocytes such as early differentiation and apoptosis. However, research of lipid rafts is hindered by technological limitations in visualizing dynamic cholesterol organization in plasma membranes. This study addresses a real-time, non-invasive method for the long-term observation of cholesterol reorganization in plasma membranes. In addition, this study also addresses the dynamic process of cholesterol depletion and repletion in primary human keratinocytes. Cholesterol reorganization was measured by observed changes in cellular impedance. Disruption of lipid rafts with low concentrations of methyl-beta-cyclodextrin (MbetaCD) resulted in an increase in the proliferative capacity of keratinocytes, which was assessed using real-time proliferation curves and adenosine triphosphate (ATP)-based proliferation assays. Quantitative PCR showed a concomitant decrease in messenger RNA (mRNA) expression of the early differentiation markers keratins 1 and 10. Conversely, specific cholesterol reintegration led to a 4.5-fold increase in keratin 2 mRNA expression, a marker for late keratinocyte differentiation, whereas depletion resulted in a significant downregulation. These findings imply a strictly controlled mechanism for the regulation of membrane cholesterol composition in both early and terminal keratinocyte differentiation. The impedance-based method that this study addresses further enhances our understanding of how physiological processes in keratinocytes are controlled by membrane cholesterol.

Summary Background Subclinical, chronic tissue inflammation involving the generation of cytokines (e.g., interleukin-6 and tumor necrosis factor-alpha) might contribute to the cutaneous aging process. Aims This study aims to screen for an active ingredient with anti-inflammatory (i.e., reduction of interleukin-6 and tumor necrosis factor-alpha) and matrix-stimulating efficacy which improves the clinical signs of skin aging in vivo. Patients/methods In vitro studies with pure Arctiin were performed investigating the inhibition of cytokine induction and stimulation of collagen neosynthesis. In vivo home-in-use studies using an Arctium lappa fruit extract–containing formulation were carried out to determine procollagen and hyaluronan synthesis, hyaluronan synthase-2 gene expression, and reduction of wrinkle volume after treatment. Results In vitro studies on human dermal fibroblasts and monocyte-derived dendritic cells supplemented with pure Arctiin showed relative to untreated control cells a stimulation of collagen synthesis and a decrease in interleukin-6 and tumor necrosis factor-alpha concentration, respectively. In addition, topical in vivo application of an A. lappa fruit extract–containing formulation for 12 weeks significantly stimulated procollagen synthesis and increased hyaluronan synthase-2 expression as well as hyaluronan levels compared to vehicle-treated control areas. Similarly, after a 4-week treatment with an A. lappa fruit extract–containing formulation, wrinkle volume in the crow's feet area was significantly reduced as compared to treatment with the vehicle. Conclusions Our data show that topical treatment with a natural A. lappa fruit extract significantly improves the metabolism of the dermal extracellular matrix and leads to a visible wrinkle reduction in vivo. In conclusion, A. lappa fruit extract represents a targeted means to regenerate dermal structures and, thus, offers an effective treatment option for mature skin.

In a recent study, we were able to show that the intermediate filament protein vimentin aggregates in human dermal fibroblasts because of modification by the advanced glycation endproduct carboxymethyllysine (CML). In this work, we investigated the formation of intracellular CML in relation to the concentration of glucose in the culture medium. The natural degradation product of glucose, methylglyoxal, was able to induce the aggregation of vimentin. This dicarbonyl leads to the formation of the modifications MG-H1 and carboxyethyllysine (CEL) as a result of the reaction with arginine and lysine residues of proteins. Furthermore, we found that the protein vimentin was modified, not only by CML and CEL, but also by pentosidine and pyrraline. These findings underline the special position of vimentin as a preferential target of the Maillard reaction in human skin.

Summary Background DNA damage as a result of ultraviolet (UV) exposure plays an important role in the progression of cutaneous aging. Both folic acid and creatine have been linked to the process of DNA protection and repair. Aims This study aims to investigate the effects of a commercially available folic acid– and creatine-containing formulation to fight the clinical signs of premature skin aging. Patients/methods Both in vitro and in vivo home-in-use studies using a folic acid– and creatine-containing formulation were performed aiming to elucidate the efficacy in terms of improvement of skin regeneration, protection from UV-induced DNA damage (Comet assay), reduction of wrinkle volume, and skin visco-elasticity. Furthermore, clinical evaluation and photography were carried out to determine the improvement of clinically graded parameters after treatment. Results Cultured full-thickness epidermal skin models supplemented with folic acid and creatine after epithelial perturbation showed an accelerated skin regeneration compared to untreated control models. Similarly, application of a folic acid– and creatine-containing formulation significantly improved epidermal turnover in vivo as evidenced by smaller corneocytes derived from the treated sites relative to the vehicle-treated sides. In addition, topical in vivo application of this formulation significantly protected from UV-induced DNA lesions, increased skin firmness, and reduced wrinkle volume compared to untreated control areas. Expert grading confirmed a significant decrease of fine and coarse wrinkles in the periocular region as well as overall wrinkles, tactile roughness, and laxity. Conclusions Taken together, these results show that the combination of folic acid and creatine significantly accelerates epidermal skin regeneration in vitro and in vivo. Together with the finding of improved biomechanical skin properties, we conclude that the described topical formulation provides an effective treatment option for (photo)-aged skin.

Elastin is an essential protein found in a variety of tissues where resilience and flexibility are needed, such as the skin and the heart. When aiming to engineer suitable implants, elastic fibres are needed to allow adequate tissue renewal. However, the visualization of human elastogenesis remains in the dark. To date, the visualization of human tropoelastin (TE) production in a human cell context and its fibre assembly under live cell conditions has not been achieved. Here, we present a long-term cell culture model of human dermal fibroblasts expressing fluorescence-labelled human TE. We employed a lentiviral system to stably overexpress Citrine-labelled TE to build a fluorescent fibre network. Using immunofluorescence, we confirmed the functionality of the Citrine-tagged TE. Furthermore, we visualized the fibre assembly over the course of several days using confocal microscopy. Applying super resolution microscopy, we were able to investigate the inner structure of the elastin–fibrillin-1 fibre network. Future investigations will allow the tracking of TE produced under various conditions. In tissue engineering applications the fluorescent fibre network can be visualized under various conditions or it serves as a tool for investigating fibre degradation processes in disease-in-a-dish-models.

Mitochondria are essential for the energy production of eukaryotic cells. During aging mitochondria run through various processes which change their quality in terms of activity, health and metabolic supply. In recent years, many of these processes such as fission and fusion of mitochondria, mitophagy, mitochondrial biogenesis and energy consumption have been subject of research. Based on numerous experimental insights, it was possible to qualify mitochondrial behaviour in computational simulations. Here, we present a new biophysical model based on the approach of Figge et al. in 2012. We introduce exponential decay and growth laws for each mitochondrial process to derive its time-dependent probability during the aging of cells. All mitochondrial processes of the original model are mathematically and biophysically redefined and additional processes are implemented: Mitochondrial fission and fusion is separated into a metabolic outer-membrane part and a protein-related inner-membrane part, a quality-dependent threshold for mitophagy and mitochondrial biogenesis is introduced and processes for activity-dependent internal oxidative stress as well as mitochondrial repair mechanisms are newly included. Our findings reveal a decrease of mitochondrial quality and a fragmentation of the mitochondrial network during aging. Additionally, the model discloses a quality increasing mechanism due to the interplay of the mitophagy and biogenesis cycle and the fission and fusion cycle of mitochondria. It is revealed that decreased mitochondrial repair can be a quality saving process in aged cells. Furthermore, the model finds strategies to sustain the quality of the mitochondrial network in cells with high production rates of reactive oxygen species due to large energy demands. Hence, the model adds new insights to biophysical mechanisms of mitochondrial aging and provides novel understandings of the interdependency of mitochondrial processes.

Until now, the glycation reaction was considered to be a nonspecific reaction between reducing sugars and amino groups of random proteins. We were able to identify the intermediate filament vimentin as the major target for the AGE modification Nɛ-(carboxymethyl)lysine (CML) in primary human fibroblasts. This glycation of vimentin is neither based on a slow turnover of this protein nor on an extremely high intracellular expression level, but remarkably it is based on structural properties of this protein. Glycation of vimentin was predominantly detected at lysine residues located at the linker regions using nanoLC-ESI-MS/MS. This modification results in a rigorous redistribution of vimentin into a perinuclear aggregate, which is accompanied by the loss of contractile capacity of human skin fibroblasts. CML-induced rearrangement of vimentin was identified as an aggresome. This is the first evidence that CML-vimentin represents a damaged protein inside the aggresome, linking the glycation reaction directly to aggresome formation. Strikingly, we were able to prove that the accumulation of modified vimentin can be found in skin fibroblasts of elderly donors in vivo, bringing AGE modifications in human tissues such as skin into strong relationship with loss of organ contractile functions.