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Objective: Human skin is the first line of defence from environmental factors such as solar radiation and is susceptible to premature ageing, including a disruption in epidermal differentiation and homeostasis. We evaluated the impact of a Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate (GFF) on epidermal differentiation and response to oxidative stress., Methods: We used transcriptomics, both spatial and traditional, to assess the impact of GFF on epidermal biology and homeostasis in keratinocytes (primary or immortalized) and in ex vivo skin explant tissue. The effect of GFF on cell adhesion rates, cellular ATP levels and proliferation rates were quantitated. Oxidative phosphorylation and glycolytic rates were measured under normal and stress-induced conditions., Results: Transcriptomics from keratinocytes and ex vivo skin explants from multiple donors show GFF induces keratinocyte differentiation, skin barrier development and cell adhesion while simultaneously repressing cellular stress and inflammatory related processes. Spatial transcriptomics profiling of ex vivo skin indicated basal keratinocytes at the epidermal-dermal junction and cornifying keratinocytes in the top layer of the epidermis as the primary cell types influenced by GFF treatment. Additionally, GFF significantly increases crosstalk between suprabasal and basal keratinocytes. To support these findings, we show that GFF can significantly increase cell adhesion and proliferation in keratinocytes. GFF also protected overall cellular bioenergetics under metabolic or oxidative stress conditions., Conclusion: Our findings provide novel insights into cellular differences and epidermal spatial localization in response to GFF, supporting previous findings that this filtrate has a significant impact on epidermal biology and homeostasis, particularly on spatially defined crosstalk. We propose that GFF can help maintain epidermal health by enhancing keratinocyte crosstalk and differentiation/proliferation balance as well as promoting an enhanced response to stress., (© 2024 The Author(s). International Journal of Cosmetic Science published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd on behalf of Society of Cosmetic Scientists and Societe Francaise de Cosmetologie.)

Para -hydroxycinnamic acid (pHCA) is one of the most abundant naturally occurring hydroxycinnamic acids, a class of chemistries known for their antioxidant properties. In this study, we evaluated the impact of pHCA on different parameters of skin aging in in vitro skin models after H 2 O 2 and UV exposure. These parameters include keratinocyte senescence and differentiation, inflammation, and energy metabolism, as well as the underlying molecular mechanisms. Here we demonstrate that pHCA prevents oxidative stress-induced premature senescence of human primary keratinocytes in both 2D and 3D skin models, while improving clonogenicity in 2D. As aging is linked to inflammation, referred to as inflammaging, we analyzed the release of IL-6, IL-8, and PGE 2 , known to be associated with senescence. All of them were downregulated by pHCA in both normal and oxidative stress conditions. Mechanistically, DNA damage induced by oxidative stress is prevented by pHCA, while pHCA also exerts a positive effect on the mitochondrial and glycolytic functions under stress. Altogether, these results highlight the protective effects of pHCA against inflammaging, and importantly, help to elucidate its potential mechanisms of action.

Inflammaging is a theory of ageing which purports that low-level chronic inflammation leads to cellular dysfunction and premature ageing of surrounding tissue. Skin is susceptible to inflammaging because it is the first line of defence from the environment, particularly solar radiation. To better understand the impact of ageing and photoexposure on epidermal biology, we performed a system biology-based analysis of photoexposed face and arm, and photoprotected buttock sites, from women between the ages of 20s to 70s. Biopsies were analysed by histology, transcriptomics, and proteomics and skin surface biomarkers collected from tape strips. We identified morphological changes with age of epidermal thinning, rete ridge pathlength loss and stratum corneum thickening. The SASP biomarkers IL-8 and IL-1RA/IL1-α were consistently elevated in face across age and cis/trans-urocanic acid were elevated in arms and face with age. In older arms, the DNA damage response biomarker 53BP1 showed higher puncti numbers in basal layers and epigenetic ageing were accelerated. Genes associated with differentiation and senescence showed increasing expression in the 30s whereas genes associated with hypoxia and glycolysis increased in the 50's. Proteomics comparing 60's vs 20's confirmed elevated levels of differentiation and glycolytic-related proteins. Representative immunostaining for proteins of differentiation, senescence and oxygen sensing/hypoxia showed similar relationships. This system biology-based analysis provides a body of evidence that young photoexposed skin is undergoing inflammaging. We propose the presence of chronic inflammation in young skin contributes to an imbalance of epidermal homeostasis that leads to a prematurely aged appearance during later life., (© 2022 John Wiley & Sons A/S. Published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.)

Understanding the changes in the skin microbiome and their relationship to host skin factors during aging remains largely unknown. To better understand this phenomenon, we collected samples for metagenomic and host skin factor analyses from the forearm, buttock, and facial skin from 158 Caucasian females aged 20‒24, 30‒34, 40‒44, 50‒54, 60‒64, and 70‒74 years. Metagenomics analysis was performed using 16S ribosomal RNA gene sequencing, whereas host sebocyte gland area, skin lipids, natural moisturizing factors, and antimicrobial peptides measurements were also performed. These analyses showed that skin bacterial diversity increased at all the skin sites with increasing age. Of the bacterial genera with an average relative abundance >1%, only Lactobacillus and Cutibacterium demonstrated a significant change (decrease) in abundance at all sampled skin sites with increasing age. Additional bacterial genera demonstrated significant age- and site-specific changes in abundance. Analysis of sebocyte area, natural moisturizing factors, lipids, and antimicrobial peptides showed an age-related decrease in sebocyte area and increases in natural moisturizing factors/antimicrobial peptides/skin lipids, all of which correlated with changes in specific bacterial genera. In conclusion, the human skin microbiome undergoes age-associated alterations that may reflect underlying age-related changes in cutaneous biology., (Copyright © 2021 The Authors. Published by Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.)

Objective: To explore synergistic effects related to skin regeneration, peptides with distinct biological mechanisms of action were evaluated in combination with different skin cell lines in the presence or absence of niacinamide (Nam). Furthermore, the synergistic responses of peptide combinations on global gene expression were compared with the changes that occur with fractional laser resurfacing treatment, a gold standard approach for skin rejuvenation, to further define optimal peptide combinations., Methods: Microarray profiling was used to characterize the biological responses of peptide combinations (+/- Nam) relative to the individual components in epidermal keratinocyte and dermal fibroblast cell lines. Cellular functional assays were utilized to confirm the synergistic effects of peptide combinations. Bioinformatics approaches were used to link the synergistic effects of peptide combinations on gene expression to the transcriptomics of the skin rejuvenation response from fractional laser treatment., Results: Microarray analysis of skin cells treated with peptide combinations revealed synergistic changes in gene expression compared with individual peptide controls. Bioinformatic analysis of synergy genes in keratinocytes revealed the activation of NRF2-mediated oxidative stress responses by a combination of Ac-PPYL, Pal-KTTKS and Nam. Additional analysis revealed direct downstream transcriptional targets of NRF2/ARE exhibiting synergistic regulation by this combination of materials, which was corroborated by a cellular reporter assay. NRF2-mediated oxidative stress response pathways were also found to be activated in the transcriptomics of the early skin rejuvenation response to fractional laser treatment, suggesting the importance of this biology in the early stages of tissue repair. Additionally, the second combination of peptides (pal-KT and Ac-PPYL) was found to synergistically restore cellular ATP levels that had been depleted due to the presence of ROS, indicating an additional mechanism, whereby peptide synergies may accelerate skin repair., Conclusion: Through combinatorial synergy studies, we have identified additional in vitro skin repair mechanisms beyond the previously described functions of individual peptides and correlated these to the transcriptomics of the skin rejuvenation response of fractional laser treatment. These findings suggest that specific peptides can act together, via complementary and synergistic mechanisms, to holistically enhance the regenerative capacity of in vitro skin cells., (© 2021 The Authors. International Journal of Cosmetic Science published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd on behalf of Society of Cosmetic Scientists and Societe Francaise de Cosmetologie.)

Alterations in metabolism in skin are accelerated by environmental stressors such as solar radiation, leading to premature aging. The impact of aging on mitochondria is of interest given their critical role for metabolic output and the finding that environmental stressors cause lowered energy output, particularly in fibroblasts where damage accumulates. To better understand these metabolic changes with aging, we performed an in-depth profiling of the expression patterns of dermal genes in face, forearm, and buttock biopsies from females of 20-70 years of age that encode for all subunits comprising complexes I-V of the mitochondrial electron transport chain. This complements previous preliminary analyses of these changes. "Oxidative phosphorylation" was the top canonical pathway associated with aging in the face, and genes encoding for numerous subunits had decreased expression patterns with age. Investigations on fibroblasts from older aged donors also showed decreased gene expression of numerous subunits from complexes I-V, oxidative phosphorylation rates, spare respiratory capacity, and mitochondrial number and membrane potential compared to younger cells. Treatment of older fibroblasts with nicotinamide (Nam) restored these measures to younger cell levels. Nam increased complexes I, IV, and V activity and gene expression of representative subunits. Elevated mt-Keima staining suggests a possible mechanism of action for these restorative effects via mitophagy. Nam also improved mitochondrial number and membrane potential in younger fibroblasts. These findings show there are significant changes in mitochondrial functionality with aging and that Nam treatment can restore bioenergetic efficiency and capacity in older fibroblasts with an amplifying effect in younger cells., (© 2020 The Authors. Aging Cell published by the Anatomical Society and John Wiley & Sons Ltd.)

Background: Macromolecules in skin cells are damaged when exposed to environmental stressors, leading to disrupted cellular function and homeostasis. While epidermal turnover can eliminate some of this damage, autophagy can rapidly remove these defective components. Niacinamide (Nam) is known to induce autophagy and optimizing formulations to maximize this response could provide improved homeostasis in stressed skin., Objective: To determine (i) whether Nam can induce autophagy related 5 (ATG5), an autophagy marker, in human keratinocytes and (ii) whether optimized low pH Nam formulations can enhance the response in 3D skin models., Methods: Human keratinocytes treated with Nam were evaluated for autophagosome accumulation and induction of ATG5 by gene expression, immunoblotting and immune-fluorescence microscopy. 3D skin equivalents were topically treated with Nam formulations at pH 5.8 and 3.8. Gene expression profiling and immunoblot analysis of ATG5 were performed., Results: Nam treatment of keratinocytes led to an accumulation of autophagosomes with a maximal signal at 48 h. Gene expression of ATG5 was induced by Nam, and immunoblots stained for ATG5 showed a significant increase after 6 h of treatment. Gene expression profiling of 3D epidermal skin equivalents treated with Nam at pH 3.8 showed stronger induction of autophagy-related genes, including ATG5, compared with pH 5.8 formulas. Enrichment for gene ontology terms on autophagy showed an increased linkage with Nam formulas at pH 3.8., Conclusions: We found that Nam induces autophagosome accumulation and ATG5 levels in keratinocytes. We also discovered that a Nam formulation at pH 3.8 can further increase levels of ATG5 in 3D skin models when compared to Nam at pH 5.8. These data support that Nam can induce autophagy in keratinocytes and formulations at pH 3.8 can enhance the impact. We hypothesize that optimized formulations at pH 3.8 can improve skin ageing appearance via autophagy induction., (© 2020 European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology.)

Background: Transition of hair shaft keratinocytes from actively respiring, nucleated cells to structural cells devoid of nucleus and cytoplasm is key to hair production. This form of cell 'death', or cornification, requires cellular organelle removal to allow the cytoplasm to become packed with keratin filament bundles that further require cross-linking to create a strong hair fibre. Although these processes are well described in epidermal keratinocytes, there is a lack of understanding of such mechanisms, specifically in the hair follicle., Objectives: To gain insights into cornification mechanisms within the hair follicle and thus improve our understanding of normal hair physiology., Methods: Scalp biopsies and hair-pluck samples were obtained from healthy human donors and analysed microscopically after immunohistochemical staining., Results: A focal point of respiratory activity was evident in keratogenous zone cells within the hair shaft, which also exhibited nuclear damage. Nuclear degradation occurred via both caspase-dependent and caspase-independent pathways. Conversely, mitophagy was driven by Bnip3L and restricted to the boundary of the keratogenous zone at Adamson's Fringe., Conclusions: We propose a model of stepwise living-dead transition within the first 1 mm of hair formation, whereby fully functional, nucleated cells first consolidate required functions by degrading nuclear DNA, yet continue to respire and provide the source of reactive oxygen species required for keratin cross-linking. Finally, as the cells become packed with keratin bundles, Bnip3L expression triggers mitophagy to rid the cells of the last remaining 'living' characteristic, thus completing the march from 'living' to 'dead' within the hair follicle., (© 2017 British Association of Dermatologists.)

Background: Intrinsic and extrinsic factors, including ultraviolet irradiation, lead to visible signs of skin aging., Objective: We evaluated molecular changes occurring in photoexposed and photoprotected skin of white women 20 to 74 years of age, some of whom appeared substantially younger than their chronologic age., Methods: Histologic and transcriptomics profiling were conducted on skin biopsy samples of photoexposed (face and dorsal forearm) or photoprotected (buttocks) body sites from 158 women. 23andMe genotyping determined genetic ancestry., Results: Gene expression and ontologic analysis revealed progressive changes from the 20s to the 70s in pathways related to oxidative stress, energy metabolism, senescence, and epidermal barrier; these changes were accelerated in the 60s and 70s. The gene expression patterns from the subset of women who were younger-appearing were similar to those in women who were actually younger., Limitations: Broader application of these findings (eg, across races and Fitzpatrick skin types) will require further studies., Conclusions: This study demonstrates a wide range of molecular processes in skin affected by aging, providing relevant targets for improving the condition of aging skin at different life stages and defining a molecular pattern of epidermal gene expression in women who appear younger than their chronologic age., (Copyright © 2017 American Academy of Dermatology, Inc. Published by Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.)

There is an urgent need to validate in vitro human skin models for use in safety testing. An important component of validation is characterizing the metabolizing capacity of these models. We report comparison of the expression of 139 genes encoding xenobiotic metabolizing enzymes in the EpiDerm model and human skin. In microarray analysis, the expression of 87% of the genes was consistent between the EpiDerm model and human skin indicating the presence of similar metabolic pathways suggesting commonality in function. Analysis of EpiDerm models constructed from four donors showed highly comparable expression of xenobiotic metabolizing genes demonstrating reproducibility of the model. Overall, the expression of Phase II enzymes appeared to be more pronounced in human skin and the EpiDerm model than that of Phase I enzymes, consistent with the role of skin in detoxification of xenobiotics. Though the basal expression of CYPs in particular was low in EpiDerm, significant induction of CYP1A1/1B1 activity was observed following treatment with 3-methylcholanthrene. These results indicate that the xenobiotic metabolizing capacity of the EpiDerm model appears to be representative of human skin. Models such as EpiDerm provide a valuable in vitro approach for evaluation of metabolism and toxicity of cutaneous exposures to xenobiotics., (Copyright (c) 2010 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.)

Global gene expression profiling provides a useful means to identify key aspects of the skin aging process, and provides information to help develop new skin technologies. Important aspects of skin aging that can be addressed include skin hydration, barrier, matrix, pigmentation and antioxidant capacity. Human skin equivalent cultures allow topical application of test compounds, combinations and products to their stratum corneum surface and measurement of predictive biomarkers. Using this in vitro biomarker approach, it is possible to detect skin barrier enhancement in response to the compounds niacinamide and hexamidine, matrix effects to the peptides Pal-KT and Pal-KTTKS, and hydration and matrix responses to niacinamide and N-acetylglucosamine.

The proteoglycan, decorin, is a regulator of collagen fibril organization and its resulting functional properties. The temporal and spatial expression of decorin during the progression to heart failure is not well understood and may play a significant role in extracellular matrix remodeling. Decorin and types I and III collagen levels were measured in male Spontaneously Hypertensive Heart Failure (SHHF) and control Wistar-Furth rats at 2 and 8 mo, and at congestive heart failure (CHF). Decorin levels increased in the SHHF rats relative to the control rats in CHF. Type I collagen levels increased while type III levels decreased in the SHHF rats in CHF relative to the age matched controls. The SHHF rats have 48 and 45 KDa isoforms of the decorin core protein expressed at all ages while control Wistar-Furths produced only a 45 KDa form. Decorin was localized in the outer ventricle wall but during CHF, decorin was expressed throughout the ventricular myocardium. Immunogold localization of decorin demonstrated an increased distribution of decorin along the myocardium collagen fibrils at CHF. The enhanced expression and greater distribution of decorin may be linked to extracellular matrix remodeling which occurs with the development of heart failure.

This study reports the concentration of collagen and its hydroxypyridinoline crosslinks, collagen fibril organization in the dorsal aortas, and systolic blood pressure during the progression of atherosclerosis in Japanese quail selected for cholesterol-induced atherosclerosis. The quail were placed on either a control or 0.5% cholesterol-added diet at approximately 16 weeks of age. The concentration of total collagen did not change in the control arteries during the course of the study, whereas at 5 and 10 weeks of cholesterol feeding, collagen levels decreased in the cholesterol-fed birds. Hydroxypyridinoline concentration increased during the duration of the study in the cholesterol-fed birds and by 15 and 20 weeks of cholesterol feeding, levels were significantly increased over those observed in the control arteries. Transmission electron microscopy showed changes in the organization of collagen fibrils. Increased systolic blood pressure was noted beginning at 10 weeks of cholesterol feeding, which is suggestive of other systemic changes induced by hypercholesterolemia. These results demonstrated remodeling of the collagen component of the dorsal aorta extracellular matrix during the progression of atherosclerosis and are suggestive of other systemic cardiovascular system changes.

The temporal and spatial distribution, and relative levels of the proteoglycan decorin and collagen type I were examined during the progression of atherosclerosis in the dorsal aortas of Japanese quail selected for cholesterol induced atherosclerosis. The quail were placed on either a control or 0.5% added cholesterol diet at approximately 16 weeks of age. Dorsal aortas were collected at 1- or 2-week intervals over a 15-week period after initiating cholesterol feeding. Biochemical analysis for decorin and collagen type I showed that both increased in the cholesterol-fed birds compared to control-fed birds beginning at 9 weeks and continued through the duration of the study. Through immunohistochemical staining for decorin and collagen type I, the spatial localization of decorin and collagen type I in control and less severe plaques in cholesterol-fed birds was most prominent in the arterial adventitia. However, in severe atherosclerotic plaques, decorin was localized in foam cell regions and collagen type I was found surrounding the foam cell regions where decorin accumulated. These results demonstrated a localization of decorin in the core of the atherosclerotic plaque foam cell region with collagen type I being located on the plaque surface.