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The compression properties of welded seams depending on welding parameters using the hot wedge and hot air welding technique, ultrasonic welding technique, and high-frequency welding technique were studied. The compression properties, expressed by parameters such as compressional energy WC, compressional resilience RC, linearity LC, and compressibility C, are important information about the welded seam quality in terms of touch, voluminosity, stiffness, and flexibility of the welded seam. KES-FB and FAST measurement systems were used to test the compression properties of the welded seams. Based on the analysis of the results obtained, the influence of the welding parameters on the compression properties of the welded seam was determined. The results of the investigation showed that improperly selected welding parameters, such as the supply or introduction of too much heat into the material to be welded or too long exposure of the material in the weld zone to heat, result in welded seams with expressive extrusion edges, which affects the quality of the welded seams. These welded seams have very low values of compressional resilience RC and very high values of compressional energy WC and compressibility C.

The study aimed to analyze whether the high compression of unique, tight-fitting sportswear influences the clothing physiology comfort of the athlete. Three specific sportswear with different compression were tested on four subjects while they were running on a treadmill with increasing intensity. The compression effect of the sportswear on the body of the test persons, the temperature distribution of the subjects, and the intensity of their perspiration during running were determined. The results indicate that the compression effect exerted by the garments significantly influences the clothing physiology comfort of the athlete; a higher compression load leads to more intense sweating and higher skin temperature.

Compression properties of textile materials are useful for determining fullness, softness, smoothness, and stiffness. In addition, compression parameters have significant influence on fabric hand value and quality of textile materials. The present paper reports a study of the sublimation printing process influence on the change in compression properties of knitted fabrics (polyester, cotton, and cotton/ polyester) intended for sportswear manufacturing. For that purpose, the KES-FB3-A Compression Tester was used for measuring compression parameters of knitted fabrics. The parameters, which contributed to the smallest reduction percentage in compression properties of polyester knitted fabrics were yarn linear density and weight. For cotton-rich knitted fabrics sublimation coating powder was used for paper modification to bond disperse dyes to cotton fibres. The analysis of the results showed that the printing process had a smaller influence on the change of compression parameters of polyesters in relation to cotton and cotton/polyester knitted fabrics. It was noted that the printing process had the effect of thickness reduction for all knitted fabrics to varying degrees. Printing process contributed to small decrease in compressibility and specific volume values for polyester knitted fabrics. The modification process contributed to the significant reduction of the compressibility for cotton (from 34.46% to 47.89%) and cotton/polyester (from 38.81% to 50.75%) knitted fabrics. In addition, reduction in specific volume values range from 41.86% to 44.19% for cotton and from 42.37% to 45.75% for cotton/ polyester knitted fabrics was notted.

Athletes are often subjected to a great physical strain during training and competition. Sport activities performed in hot and humid conditions may result in different heat illnesses with mild or fatal consequences. Against this background it is important to know the thermal state of athletes during physical activity. This article presents the development of a smart T-shirt for monitoring the thermal status of an athlete. The smart T-shirt was created by embedding an electronic system with temperature and humidity sensors that allows the measurement of temperature and the relative humidity of the microclimate. A smart T-shirt is comfortable, and integrated sensors and electronics do not affect wearing comfort. A good concurrence between the temperature and humidity results from using the smart T-shirt, and thus the medical device was achieved. Data obtained can be of great importance to the sports staff who will be able to monitor the athletes' thermal state during matches and competitions.

Al(OH)3 nanoparticles (ATH NPs) and phosphorylated cellulose nanofibrils (PCNFs) were used as user-friendly and comfortable coating components on flame-retardant fabric to improve its thermophysiological comfort and high-intensive heat protection properties. The effect of the PCNF imprinting and its attachment after the post-printing of a hydrophobic polyacrylate (AP) on the same (back side) or the other (front) side of the fabric, with and without the addition of ATH NPs, was considered, to maintain the front side (facing the wearer) as hydrophilic while keeping the back side (facing the outside) hydrophobic. The amount of coatings applied and their patterning were studied, varied with the ATH NPs’ concentration (1.7, 3.3 and 6.7 wt%) and screen mesh size used (60 and 135), based on the coating’ mass, fabric’s air permeability, thickness and microstructure. The reduced moisture build-up (55%), increased the water vapour (13%) and heat (12%) transfer from the skin, were assessed by applying PCNF under the AP, being more pronounced in the case of using a 135 mesh-sized screen, given the smaller, more densely distributed, thinner and imprinted pattern coatings. These effects were further improved by the addition of nanoporous ATH NPs, which allowed more homogeneous spreading of the moisture and its faster transport. Such a treatment also shifted the fabric’s degradation temperature towards higher values (up to 15°C), retained up to 30% of high-heat flux (21 kW/m2), prolonged the time to ignition by 11 s and reduced the total heat released by up to 60%, thereby providing better protection when exposed to the heat, due to the presence of the phosphorous (PCNF) promoted generation of an Al2O3 char acting as a barrier layer, while also reducing the production of heat and generation of smoke by 75%.

In this chapter, garment-pattern construction, pattern making and fabric utilisation are discussed. The chapter first discusses garment-pattern construction, and pattern-pieces and their preparation. It then explains the cutting-marker process, before defining cutting-marker parameters that impact on the quality of the garment parts to be cut. The chapter then discusses technological requirements when arranging pattern-pieces in a cutting-marker. Finally, the chapter describes the factors affecting efficient cutting-marker utilisation.

Clothing intended to be worn in water demands a special approach to design, selection of materials, and overall development process. Product design attractiveness has become imperative to meet the criteria set by an increasingly demanding and highly competitive market. At the same time, it is necessary to ensure the maximum functionality of such garments in terms of body movement criteria, providing adequate protection and targeted support to the user and achieving the shape and size of the garment model, customized to varieties of human bodies. This chapter presents possibilities of implementing computer technology in 3D design process of swimwear models and a presentation of detailed and complete development process of diving suits for various diving sport disciplines. Development process is based on scanned 3D body models and parametric models customized according to different body shapes and sizes. Given the high demands for fit of diving suits in specific dynamic conditions, changes of specific body dimensions in dynamic position are computationally analyzed. The possibility of 3D construction directly on the surface of the 3D body models and application of the flattening method for the transformation of the irregular 3D surface into the 2D cutting parts is described. In order to achieve a high degree of fit, according to the body shape and size, it is necessary to determine physical and mechanical properties of material from which the real garment prototype will be made. This requires a complex approach to the process of complete computer garment design and the determination and implementation of the required material properties in the computer CAD system. Verification of the entire process is performed by fit analysis in static and dynamic conditions on computer 3D garment prototypes and on real prototypes by professional diver.

Inteligentna funkcionalna jakna sa integriranim mrežnim sustavom vodiča uz ugrađene elektroničke komponente i mikroračunalo omogućava u slučaju ozljede nositelja hladnim i/ili vatrenim oružjem efikasno detektiranje i identificiranje mjesta ozljede na tijelu nositelja te prijenos informacija o mjestu ozljede i vitalnim funkcijama korisnika, putem bežične komunikacije s udaljenim prijemnim sustavima.

Aktivna sportska odjeća je odjeća određenih funkcija sa svrhom zadovoljavanja očekivanih svojstava i pružanje odgovarajuće pomoći sportašima u postizanju sportskih rezultata. Osim funkcionalnosti, važan aspekt sportske odjeće je i toplinsko fiziološka udobnost kod nošenja, posebno kada se sportske aktivnosti odvijaju u zahtjevnim temperaturnim uvjetima (kod visokih ili niskih temperatura) tijekom dugog vremenskog razdoblja. Pravilan izbor odjeće može značajno smanjiti dinamička i toplinska opterećenja sportaša. Razvoj tekstilne znanosti i tehnologije usmjeren je u istraživanja razvoja vlakana visokih i posebnih svojstava za razne primjene. Tako se mnogo ulaže u tehnološke inovacije tekstilnih materijala (od vlakana, pređa, plošnih i 3D tvorevina) što rezultira poboljšanim svojstvima sportske odjeće. Osim toga, mnogo se pažnje posvećuje dizajnu koji također doprinosi poboljšanju performansi sportske odjeće. Ovdje će se ukazati na postignuća u području razvoja sportske odjeće namijenjene profesionalnim sportašima. Razmatrani su čimbenici utjecaja na udobnost sportske odjeće, a posebna pozornost posvećena je inovacijama u području materijala s učinkom hlađenja., Active sportswear is clothing of certain functions with the aim of ensuring the expected properties of certain sports. An important aspect of sportswear is thermal physiological comfort, especially when sports activities take place in demanding atmospheric conditions (at high or low temperatures) over a long period of time. Proper selection of clothing can significantly reduce the dynamic and thermal loads of athletes. Innovations in textile science and technology is focused on research into the development of fibres of high and special properties for various applications. So, a lot of investment in technological innovations of textile materials from fibres, yarns to fabric and 3D textile structure which results in improved performance of sportswear. In addition, much attention is paid to design that also contributes to improving the performance of sportswear. Here, it will be pointed on significant achievements in the field of sportswear intended for professional athletes. Various aspects that affect the comfort of clothing, the impact of different types of fibres, yarns and innovative structures of textile fabrics intended for the production of sportswear are discussed. Also, special emphasis is given to innovations in the field of jerseys with cooling effect.

Mjerni sustav sastoji se od mjerne strojne opreme s ugrađenom mjernom jedinicom s pripadajućim senzorskim sustavom za mjerenje vlačnih i/ili longitudinalnih kompresijskih opterećenja i njihovih mehaničkih deformacija te pripadajućeg softvera za slobodno programiranje i kontrolu procesa mjerenja, automatsko prikupljanje podataka, vrednovanje i prezentaciju tih.

The paper explores the relationship between subjective assessment of wearing comfort and objectively determined physiological parameters (mean skin temperature, skin relative humidity, amount excreted in sweat absorbed in clothing) in a warm environment. The experiment involved five young girls who wore two different models of women’s summer clothing (women’s dresses and women’s blouse plus shorts) made from five different raw materials, but of nearly identical structural characteristics . The investigation consisted of 450 individual tests. All wearing trial tests were performed under artificially designed ambient conditions within a computer-controlled climatic chamber. It was found that there existed a relationship between subjective assessment of wearing comfort and objectively determined physiological parameters of the test subjects. The statistical analysis results showed that coefficients of multiple linear regression in dependence of the subjective assessment of the degree of skin moisture Wskin on climatic conditions had the value of R2 = 0.87, based on physiological parameters, such as skin temperature Tskin and skin relative humidity RHskin (R2 = 0.90), and on the amount of excreted sweat Esweat and the amount of sweat absorbed within clothing Wsweat (R2 = 0.87).

The aim of this research was to investigate the influences of different test methods on the transverse and longitudinal deformations of specimens and the introduction of the strip quadratic method for the determination of the Poisson's ratio. The research was conducted in two parts. In the first part strip biaxial and strip quadratic methods were investigated. Based on the test results the longitudinal and transverse deformations under tensile loading were analyzed, which resulted in a proposal for modifying the test method for determining the Poisson's ratio. In the second part the Poisson's ratios for five different fabrics were determined using a strip quadratic method. The analyses of the results showed that this test method influenced the values of longitudinal and transverse deformations for the test specimen and its constituents. The proposed tensile method, which is based on a square-shaped specimen, assures determination of the actual values for transverse deformation during the loading.

Paper presents research on dynamical behaviour and fit analysis of customised diving suits. The special diving suit above all protects the human body from hypothermia and various forms of injury, therefore, the size and cutting pattern of the diving suit should be completely adapted to the measures and shape of the diver's body [1]. Diving suits models are developed by using the 3D flattening method, which enables the construction of a garment model directly on the 3D computer body model and separation of discrete 3D surfaces as well as transformation into 2D cutting parts [2]. 3D body scanning of male and female test subjects was performed with the purpose of body measurements analysis in static and dynamic postures and processed body models were used for construction and simulation of diving suits prototypes. All necessary parameters for 3D simulation were applied on obtained cutting parts, as well as parameters values for mechanical properties of two neoprene materials [3]. Developed computer diving suits prototypes were used for stretch analysis on areas relevant for body dimensional changes according to dynamic anthropometrics. Garment pressure against the body in static and dynamic conditions was also analysed. Garments patterns for which the computer prototype verification was conducted were used for real prototype production. Real prototypes were also used for stretch and pressure analysis in static and dynamic conditions. Based on the obtained results, correlation analysis between body changes in dynamic positions and dynamic stress determined on computer and real prototypes was performed.

This study presents research into drawing conditions’ in∞uences on the mechanical properties of Polyethylene Terephthalate (PET) fllament sewing thread. The thread was drawn by varying the treatment temperature and contact time on the flrst heated cylinder (T1, n1) and on the second heated cylinder (T2, n2), as well as by using difierent draw ratios (‚). The critical treatment conditions were found using the drawing process (T14=130 ‐ C, n15=13 turns, ‚5=1.25, T24=220 ‐ C, n23=9 turns) and the greatest improvement in the mechanical properties, respectively. Deterioration in the threads’ mechanical properties was observed above the critical treatment conditions. The mechanical properties of the drawn threads were investigated under critical treatment conditions. It was found that the heat treatment conditions on the second cylinder, i.e. the treatment temperature and the contact time had the greatest in∞uences on the improvement of the elastic modulus (D4=7.41 cN/tex, E3=7.40 cN/tex) and the breaking extension (D4=12.13%, E3=12.12%), when compared with the treatment temperature and the contact time on the flrst cylinder and the draw ratio between the heated cylinders. The maximal value of the breaking tenacity showed threads that were drawn at the critical draw ratio (C5=61.81 cN/tex) and the contact time of the thread with the second heated cylinder (E3=61.59 cN/tex). Simultaneously, the treatment conditions on the second cylinder afiected the maximum reduction of the thread’s linear density (D4=91.33 tex, E3=91.47 tex) and twist (D4=163 turns/m, E3=180 turns/m). The greatest improvement in the tension at the yield point achieved threads that were drawn at the critical draw ratio (C5=9.27 cN/tex) and the heat-treatment temperature on the second cylinder (D4=9.27 cN/tex).

For the production of drawn poly(ethylene terephthalate) (PET) filament threads it is useful to determine the relationship between the drawing process conditions and the resulting product properties. Drawing at an elevated temperature over a defined time usually causes changes of the polymer structural parameters that influence the mechanical properties of the filaments. In order to elucidate the physical background of the drawing process for developing the production process of PET filament sewing thread, the thread was drawn by varying the treatment temperature and contact time. The effect of the treatment conditions on the structural and mechanical properties of the drawn threads was investigated, such as the birefringence, crystallinity, and dynamic mechanical properties of the threads’ filaments, as well as the mechanical properties and shrinkage of the treated threads. Using the drawing process, higher temperature and contact time up to the critical values ( T2 = 220°C, n2 = 9 turns) change the structural parameters and, consequently, any modifications influence changes in the mechanical properties of the threads. Namely, a higher treatment temperature and contact time increases the degree of crystallinity, the birefringence, and the maxima of the loss tangent and loss modulus temperature, and a significant increase in the breaking tenacity, elastic modulus and the thread’s tension at the yield point, and a decrease of the breaking extension is achieved. The observed deterioration of the thread’s mechanical properties above the critical treatment conditions is attributed to the destructive phenomena of the supra-molecular structure, resulting in an imperfect structure of the thread’s filaments.

A drawn PET filament sewing thread for the automotive industry was used for this research. This study concerned itself with the draw ratio’s influence regarding certain physical properties of the threads, the tensile properties during sewing and the mechanical properties after sewing in order to estimate the drawn thread’s sewing performance. An increase in the draw ratio caused a decrease in the linear density, and thread twist. In addition, the tenacity, elastic modulus and tension at the yield point were increased when drawing, whilst the breaking extension decreased. It was found that tensile fatigue and heat loading during the sewing process cause changes in the threads’ mechanical properties, depending on the draw ratio. The tenacity, elastic modulus and tension at the yield point had decreased after the sewing process, whilst the breaking extension decreased for those threads drawn at lower draw ratios, and increased for those drawn at higher draw ratios. The results show that those threads drawn at higher draw ratios displayed inappropriate sewing performance, resulting from inadequate elastic and surface characteristics.

Developing steps in designing a system for predicting garment appearance quality are presented. The articles of clothing investigated are ladies' jackets and the accent is given to subjective evaluation of individual factors of garment appearance quality. A group of semi-skilled evaluators and a group of experts in the field of garment engineering were doing the evaluation. This system of dual evaluation and comparison of the grades obtained are key factors in the development of the predicting models using the method of machine learning. The algorithms of the latter are implemented in the Orange machine learning system, which was used to develop the system for predicting garment appearance quality grade. It is founded on previous knowledge of correlations among the quality grade of a particular factor of garment appearance quality and the parameters of mechanical and physical properties of the analysed fabrics, incorporated into the garments in question. The workings of the system designed result in a prediction of garment appearance quality grade, presented separately for each individual factor of appearance quality defined.

Self-cleaning surfaces based on photocatalysis are an extremely promising nano-technological field of extensive research and development. Recently comprehensive research work has been performed to evaluate the optical, photocatalytic and antimicrobial properties of TiO2 nano-particles and composites thereof. The aim of this study was to obtain self-cleaning properties for regenerate cellulose surfaces by nano-modification, using TiO2 nano-coating and to define the impact of the modification on fabrics end-use properties. Two different modified fabrics with self-cleaning effect were prepared and analysed, i.e. the modification efficiency was determined. In addition, the influence of fibre modification on several textile properties was determined. However, a soft handle, good appearance and some other surface properties accompanied by appropriate mechanical properties represent the basis for a high quality fabric therefore the influence of the modification procedure on textiles handle was studied.

PurposeThe paper aims to investigate thermal comfort properties, such as heat and moisture transmission through male business clothing systems, by using a sweating thermal manikin Coppelius that simulates heat and moisture production in a similar way to the human body and measures the influence of clothing on heat exchange in different environmental and sweating conditions.Design/methodology/approachTen different combination of male business clothing systems were measured using the sweating manikin, under three environmental conditions (10°C/50 per cent RH, 25°C/50 per cent RH and −5°C), and at 0 and 50 gm−2 h−1 sweating levels, in order to evaluate the influence of environmental and sweating conditions on thermal comfort properties of clothing systems.FindingsThe results show how business clothing systems influence on the dry and evaporative heat loss between the manikin surface and environment in different environmental and sweating conditions.Practical implicationsWhen using sweating thermal manikin Coppelius, water vapour transmission (WVT) through and water condensation on the clothing can be determined simultaneously with the thermal insulation (It) of clothing system. Measured thermal comfort properties of clothing systems evaluated with a sweating thermal manikin can provide valuable information for the clothing industry by manufacturing/designing new clothing systems.Originality/valueIn this investigation, the heat and moisture transmission properties of male business clothing systems were measured in different environmental and sweating conditions. In the past few years, clothing materials containing microencapsulated phase‐change materials (PCMs) have appeared in outdoor garments, particularly sportswear; therefore, we decided to investigate the thermal comfort properties of different standard male business apparel, as well as male business clothing that contain PCMs used as liner and outerwear material.

PurposeThe purpose of this study was to investigate the heat and moisture transmission through different types of textile materials or material combinations used for male business clothing.Design/methodology/approachIn this study, eight different material combinations, which simulate four‐layer male business clothing system were tested using the sweating cylinder under two environmental conditions (10°C/65% RH and 25°C/65% RH), and at two sweating levels (100 and 200 gm−2h−1), in order to evaluate the heat and moisture transmission properties of material combinations.FindingsThe results show how combinations of clothing materials that simulate male business clothing system influence on the dry and evaporative heat loss between the cylinder surface and two different environment conditions as well as to different sweating levels.Practical implicationsThe sweating cylinder can be used for measuring the heat and moisture transmission through clothing materials or material combinations in order to find out the best combination of textile materials, which simulate clothing system. Measured thermal comfort properties of material combinations evaluated with a sweating cylinder can provide valuable information for the textile and clothing industry by manufacturing/designing new textiles and clothing systems.Originality/valueThe paper investigated the heat and moisture transmission through combinations of clothing materials that simulate male business clothing system. In the past few years, clothing materials containing microencapsulated phase‐change materials (PCMs) have appeared in outdoor garments, particularly sportswear; therefore, we decided to investigate the combinations of standard used textile materials as well as of materials, containing PCMs, which simulate male business clothing system.

PurposeTo develop a mathematical model of the heat transfer from human body to environmental air that will be numerically solved by a personal computer.Design/methodology/approachDevelopment of the heat transfer model for the system man – clothing – environment is based on studying all forms of dry heat transfer (radiation, convection and conduction).FindingsThe advantage of the model for heat transfer is the ability of the fast evaluation of heat transfer for various textile materials incorporated into the clothing system under different ambient conditions.Originality/valueModelling the heat transfer is original and has an important contribution to thermal comfort.

The properties of 100 % PES core-spun threads were studied before and after the sewing process at different stitching speeds, by determination of the threads tensile force during the sewing process and by changes of the mechanical and thermo-mechanical properties after the sewing process. This analytical method is especially advantageous when monitoring contemporary thermal and mechanical effects, as is the case when loading the sewing thread. Loadings during the sewing process cause structural changes in the thread-twisted fibres. This is confirmed by changes in the thermo-mechanical properties after the sewing process. Simultaneously, changes in the threads mechanical properties after sewing were also observed.

The present study investigated stress relaxation in fabrics with increased elasticity. For prediction of the degree of stress relaxation the frequently used mechanical models reported in the literature were analyzed. The mechanical models which were used in this paper were: Maxwell's model, the two-component Maxwell's model, the modified model of standard linear solid, Alfrey's model and the three-component Maxwell's model with nonlinear spring for explaining the 1 hour relaxation curve and the 24 hour relaxation curve. The results of the study show that it is hard to precisely predict the value of stress after 24 hours using the model that was built up based on the 1 hour experimental curve. When comparing the experimental relaxation curve with the fitted curve from the mechanical model it is clear that the models with higher component values explain the experimental relaxation curve better. The weak point of those models was the high number of local minima which makes it difficult to find the global minimum.

In order to design high-quality threads, it is necessary to know the properties of threads and fibers, as well as the loadings and deformations which may occur during the sewing process. Thread properties depend on the mechanical properties of the fiber and the constructional parameters of the thread and its surface treatment, which directly influence sewing performance. The mechanical properties of a thread primarily depend on the fiber mechanical properties and the amount of twist. Knowledge of the thread dynamic loadings during the sewing process, depending on the number of turns and the lubrication method, is important for planning the required processing properties of the thread. This paper presents research into the influence of thread twist and the lubrication method on the mechanical properties and dynamic load of PES core-spun thread and its fibers. Research into the mechanical properties of the different twisted and surface treated threads, and separated fibers was carried out for this purpose. The influence of thread dynamic load during a sewing process was also researched regarding any alterations in the mechanical properties of the threads and separated fibers. Analyses of the results show that the amount of twist depends on the mechanical properties of the thread and its constituent fibers, whilst the method of surface treatment is based on the specific mechanical properties of the thread. A dynamic load causes greater or smaller thread deformations, which is reflected in changes in the thread and fiber mechanical properties. The occurred changes depend on dynamic load, amount of twist, and the lubrication method, which is confirmed with statistical analysis of the measured results.

PurposeThe purpose of this paper is to analyse some mechanical properties and parameters of drapability using different methods from two different points of research area: knowledge bases and numerical modelling using the finite element method.Design/methodology/approachThe approach consists of analysing some mechanical properties and parameters of drapability using different methods from two different points of research area: knowledge bases and numerical modelling using the finite element method. The knowledge bases, named FP_B‐1 and FPO_B‐2, were used to analyse the bending rigidity of fused panels. The numerical model of fused panel NMFP is used to analyse parameters of drapability.FindingsBased on the analyses of bending rigidity and draping of fused panels the conclusions indicate the significance of interaction between mechanical properties and parameters of drapability of the fused panel to garment appearance. Furthermore, the methods used present a computer approach to the study of the fused panel properties important for the computer‐based engineering and the presentation of real behaviour of all aspects of clothes.Practical implicationsThis numerical model of a fused panel enables a 3D observation of this aspect of clothes' which is a behaviour, very important contribution to the computer planning of the behaviour of produced clothes.Originality/valueA better understanding of how to construct fused panels in clothing.

The knowledge of sewing thread tension determined at different measuring locations on the sewing machine is the basis for the definition of the loading magnitudes acting during the stitch formation process and the locations at which they appear, concerning the stitch cycle or the main shaft turn of the sewing machine. During the stitch formation process the sewing thread is exposed to the highest tension in the region between the tension regulator and the thread take-up lever, following by tension in the region between the take-up lever and the needle and in the region in front of the tension regulator. Dynamic tension and tension force are also dependent on stitch velocity.

PurposeIn this paper, special attention is focused on the study of the relaxation phenomena of fabrics containing elastane yarn.Design/methodology/approachFor this purpose, the relaxation phenomena of wound fabric under constant deformation, as the consequence of accumulated stress during winding, were analysed. Maxwell's model and the modified standard linear solid model are used for explaining the relaxation.FindingsThe results of the study of the relaxation phenomena of fabrics containing elastane yarn show a close connection between stress relaxation under constant deformation in the fabric roll and the degree of deformation with manual unwinding. Expert knowledge of the relaxation phenomena in fabrics containing elastane yarns has a big influence on explaining the problem of dimensional changes and instability in such fabrics.Originality/valueA better understanding of the relaxation phenomena in fabrics containing elastane yarns.

The study of fabric behaviour during its transformation from a two‐dimensional (2D) product into a three‐dimensional (3D) article of clothing is presented in this paper. Actual fabric transformation into a 3D article of clothing occurs in sewing processes, where the fabric is exposed to different mechanical loads and behaves accordingly. Fabric behaviour responses as an outcome of the mechanical loads to which it has been exposed, as well as their correlation with the parameters of the analysed fabric mechanical properties are investigated from this point of view. The system was designed for fabric behaviour prediction in garment manufacturing processes, based on wide fabric behaviour study. The ORANGE software tool used incorporates a lot of machine learning methods. On the basis of the input data (the parameters of mechanical properties) and input knowledge (fabric behaviour responses), it offers the prediction of fabric behaviour in garment manufacturing processes for the fabric selected.

Garment is presumably the only product where, in the tailoring process, a two‐dimensional fabric is converted into a three‐dimensional shape without indirect physical remodelling of the material. Such a remodelling is directly associated with the physical behaviour of fabric structure, which can be treated as a very complex system owing to its constructional properties. Fabrics are non‐homogeneous and anisotropic materials. Very small stresses on textile materials cause extremely large strains, so that the deformations occurring are highly non‐linear. Non‐linear properties of textile materials and thus, connected deformations at low stresses are closely related to the elastic potential and influence fabric draping and fitting of the garment manufactured. For this purpose, the relationship between fabric elastic potential, as an important property under lower tensile load, and garment appearance quality, will be investigated. The investigation is subdivided into two parts. The first part presents the study of relationship between the elastic potential and particular mechanical properties of fabrics, whereas the second part of the investigation is concerned with studying the influence of fabric elastic potential on the drapeability, respectively, appearance quality of the garment manufactured.