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The paper will present some aspects of reactive and vat dyes application, in processes of dyeing and printing, on inherently fire-resistant materials. The overall research is part of the project of development of Inherently Flame Retardant Fabric for Dual Use, funded by the European Union from the European Regional Development Fund, and in which the University of Zagreb Faculty of Textile Technology is a partner to Croatian producer of protective and functional textile, Cateks d.d. Various combinations of fibres were applied, and thus the possibilities of applying dyes on such fabrics were investigated. In order to achieve optimal levels of flame resistance, various combinations of inherently flame resistant fibers with different proportions have been designed and tested. Considering the relatively high proportion of aramid fibers in such mixtures, the application of dyes and the achievement of coloured effects by conventional dyeing and printing procedures is highly complex. This paper will present the results of the application of reactive dyes using the printing method and the vat dyes in dyeing exhaustion process. The vat dyeing was performed on three types of fabrics differing in variations and proportion of inherently flame resistant fibres. After the dyeing the microscopic imaging was performed by DinoLite AM701. The limited flame spread, the fastness to wet and dry rubbing, as well as lightfastness was tested. The results showed that the colour characteristics will depend on the proportion of the cellulose component, considering that the vat dyes bind to the cellulose fibers. In addition to the cellulose component, they can also bind to the PA component and regenerated cellulose components. Microscopic images of the fabrics show the components in the structure of the fabric composition that were bound by the dye and those that were not (these are mainly aramid components). Surface flammability test results show optimal inherent flame resistance of the tested fabrics. The results of the fastness test confirm optimal fastness to dry and wet friction, while the fastness to light is weaker and it can be said that it is not completely satisfactory. As for the reactive dyes printing, the research was also conducted on three fabrics differ in composition of warp and weft yarns. Flame retardant properties of fabrics before printing, determined by measuring LOI-Limiting Oxygen Index were measured. Also colour characteristics were measured using a remission spectrophotometry. Wash fastness testing was performed, and also microscopic imaging of the printed sample was performed using DinoLite AM7013. The analysis of K/S values of printed samples were performed, while the wash fastness results are presented through the total color difference values, dE, calculated according to the CIE76 system. For printed samples, also lightfastness was tested.

Općepoznato je da je čovjek svojim nekontroliranim i nepažljivim ponašanjem utjecao na ravnotežu u životnom ciklusu Zemlje. Uvidom u problematiku procjene otpuštanja mikroplastike iz poliesterske tkanine, postalo je važno proučavati i površinsku strukturu same tkanine. Utjecaj atmosferilija, kao što je sunčeva energija, vlaga ili oborine dodatno oslabljuju poliestersku tkaninu čime povećavaju otpuštanje mikroplastike. Zbog dugotrajnog ispitivanja u realnim vanjskim uvjetima te u svrhu njihove ubrzane simulacije, standardna poliesterska tkanina je podvrgnuta procesu umjetnog starenja. Umjetno starena poliesterska tkanina karakterizirana je na uređaju za mjerenje opipa tkanine Fabric Touch Testeru, tzv. FTT. Na standardnoj te starenoj standardnoj poliesterskoj tkanini mjereni su moduli i fizikalna svojstva povezana s opipom. Za svaku stranu tkanine upotrijebljeni su indeksi koji se koriste za predviđanje subjektivnog primarnog osjeta. Analiza tkanine starene u okviru ovog rada u odnosu na standardnu poliestersku tkaninu nije dala neke značajnije promjene kojima bi se ušlo u dubinu karakterizacije parametara koje nudi FTT. Iako nisu postignuti očekivani rezultati, ova analiza je dala smjernice za daljnja istraživanja. Jedna od ideja je produžiti vrijeme izlaganja procesu umjetnog starenja, te obuhvatiti različite parametre poput načina izlaganja i utjecaj atmosferilija.

Jedan od problema globalnih razmjera u posljednjem desetljeću prisutnost je čestica mikroplastike u okolišu (vodi, tlu, hrani itd.). Američka udruga tekstilnih kemičara i kolorista (AATCC - The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists), 2021. godine objavila je prvu metodu za procjenu otpuštanja čestica/fragmenata vlakana tijekom kućanskog pranja (AATCC TM212-2021, Test Method for Fiber Fragment Release During Home Laundering). Unutar predmetne metode definirani su ključni pojmovi: vlakno, fragment vlakna te mikrovlakno koji su često predmet rasprava u znanstvenim i strukovnim krugovima pri definiranju otpuštenih čestica. Objava ove za sada jedine metode donekle rješava nedosljednosti u protokolu provedbe pranja i načina analize otpuštenih čestica, a koje su dvojbene prilikom vrednovanja razmjera zagađenja efluenta od procesa pranja. U ovom radu je načinjena usporedba procesnih parametara i načina analize efluenta od procesa pranja prema TM212 razvijenog u provedbi projekta HRZZ IP-2020-02-7575: Procjena otpuštanja čestica mikroplastike u pranju poliesterskih tekstilija s ciljem dosljednog određivanja otpuštanja čestica/fragmenata vlakana u otpadnoj vodi tijekom kućanskog pranja.

In woven fabrics, the typical topography is expressed by the periodic repetition of waves in the vertical and horizontal directions resulting from its structure. The term roughness refers to height differences in the range of variations on the fabric surface, quantified by deviations in the direction of the normal vector of the actual surface from its ideal shape, and is characterized by the height and width of the wave. The roughness profile is a profile derived from the primary profile neglecting the long-wave components using a profile filter. Each parameter is classified according to the primary profile (P), roughness profile (R) and waviness profile (W) to categorize different aspects of the profile. To process the data from the primary profile, it is necessary to create a roughness profile, which is done by filtering. It is necessary to select the appropriate wavelength of the section (cutoff line), which separates the roughness from the waviness. In the case of fabric at the level of weave, threads, thread morphology. In the experimental part of the work, samples in plain and satin weave were examined, with the same warp and weft densities. By selecting two cutoff values, two profiles were obtained for each sample. The first profile includes only wavelengths less than the cutoff line (1.02 mm) equal to the length between the two weft threads increased by 10%. The cutoff of the second profile is determined by estimating the one wavelength of the approximated path of one thread in the fabric passing along one weave unit of fabric increased by one thread. A comparison of the filtered profiles shows a similarity between the two profiles in both samples, which suggests that the roughness of the fabric is more influenced by the density of the threads than the fabric weave.

In this research, the modification of different polyester structures (fabrics and knits) by the biopolymer chitosan was studied to evaluate the effects of the polyester structure and treatments on the particulate pollution of wastewater. The pristine polyester and the chitosan-polyester fabric and polyester knit composites were washed cyclically with standard ECE A detergent at 60 ◦C. The laser diffraction technique was used to characterize the particle size of the washing wastewaters from the 1–5, 6–10 and 1–10 wash cycles. In addition, the total solids (TS), total suspended solids (TSS), total dissolved solids (TDS), turbidity and chemical oxygen demand (COD) were also determined, according to standard procedures. The obtained results show the influence of the polyester fabrics and polyester knit structures and chitosan-polyester composites on the particle size distribution (PSD) in the washing wastewater. Differences in the values of the characteristic parameters, especially the span value and shape factor (k) of the individual curves, are visible, indicating the release of particles during the washing process. The experimental results show that the laser diffraction technique is suitable for characterizing the particle dimensions of the washing wastewater for different pristine polyester structures and chitosan-polyester composites. Modification with chitosan has been shown to provide potential protection against the release of microplastic particles into the environment.

The woven fabric is a porous and flexible flat material, which makes it very suitable for making garments. The structural properties and construction of the woven fabric partly define its thermal properties, and by manipulating them it is possible to develop a woven fabric with improved thermal comfort. The results of the research showed that fabrics with lower thickness values and greater density at the same time conduct heat better. Also, fabrics with a large number of interlacements (plain weave) and, at the same time, a lower density, conduct heat well due to a greater proportion of vertical pores.

Proban® is multiphase treatment of cotton fabrics based on the formation of pre-condensates using a flame retardant (FR) agent based on tetrakis(hydroxymethyl)phosphonium salts (THPx). The assessment of the durability of a product demand the preliminary understanding of how relevant is to extend its lifetime. Changes in surface properties and pore volume are the main causes of the change in material properties. It is therefore important to minimise the risk of agents acting on: (1) protection level, (2) shape and dimensions and (3) additional comfort characteristics. This research focused on impact of washing conditions on the durability of FR properties and appearance of Proban cotton fabrics was systematically organized through variation in chemistry distribution in Sinner cycle. The chemical share is varied in laboratory conditions as simulation of industrial washing based on component dosing where temperature, time and mechanical agitation were constant. Washing of cotton fabrics was performed through 10 cycles in four baths containing high alkali components, medium alkali components, high alkali reference detergent and water. The limited oxygen index (LOI), calorimetric parameters (Micro Cone Calorimetry), thermal analysis (TGA-FTIR), surface examination (SEM), spectral characteristics and pH of an aqueous extract of fabrics before and after 10 washing cycles were selected for proof of the concept. Proof of a medium alkali bath as a washing concept for Proban cotton fabric is approved through preservation of FR properties examined through LOI, TGA and MCC parameters and appearance - color and low level of fibrillation.

Regarding printing on inherently non-combustible fabrics, a review of the literature revealed a significant research gap and a relatively small number of publications. In this paper, the printability of non-combustible blended fabrics with reactive dyes fabrics were analysed through evaluation of their spectral and FR characteristics before and after washing process. The tests were performed on non-commercial, inherent FR fabrics of the targeted composition. It should also be emphasized that the tests were performed on fabrics developed at the University of Zagreb, Faculty of Textile Technology as part of the project activities. Research was performed on five fabrics varied in composition and weave. Two fabrics were in twill 2/2, two in twill 3/1 and one in rips. The warp thread of these fabrics are the same, blend of meta-aramid (95%) and para- aramid (5%), while the weft threads are different in composition. The flame resistance of the pristine fabrics was tested by LOI - Limited Oxygen Index. Printing with reactive dyes was performed by hand screen procedure. After drying and fixing of the prints, wash fastness was tested. The results of LOI indicate on high resistance to burning, so all samples meet the criteria specified for the inherently flame resistant fabrics that LOI> 26%. Comparison of LOI values does not show significant differences within variations in weft and weave. The values of pH measurement indicated acidity of the surface, which may be caused by yarn preparations, so samples were before printing washed in a mild detergent composed from anionic and non-ionic surfactants. Microscopic images of printed fabrics show that the binding of dyes in the process of printing and fixing, occurs exclusively on the viscose components of the yarn. This is also a reason of achieving relatively low values of colour strength K/S. The ratio of lightness (L*) and chroma (C*) showed the accordance with the K/S values. Based on the performed analysis, it can be confirmed that it is possible to achieve a certain level of colouration in fabrics that contain a high proportion of aramid fibres, if a certain ratio of cellulose component is contained. In samples used in this part of the research, the weft yarn contained a component of viscose that has the ability to bind reactive dye, and colouration was achieved even in samples that had a certain basic colour, ie were not completely uncoloured (Fabrics 1, 2 and 4). Also, the results confirmed the optimal wash fastness in the process of five washing cycles. This research is part of the comprehensive research of the characteristics of FR fabrics and the possibility of their finishing in the processes of dyeing and printing.

The paper will present an experiment of vat dyeing of specific fabrics with protective, fire retardant properties that have a high content of aramid fibres in their composition. The research was performed on fabric samples that differ in raw material composition and aramid content. Also, the samples were dyed in raw from (group 1) as well as after pre-treatment with alkaline scouring (group 2). Based on the values obtained by measuring the LOI index, it was shown that the selected fabrics meet the properties of inherently FR fabrics. Dyeing was performed with Indanthren® Olive Green HB Colloisol (manufactured by DyStar) vat dye, in exhaustion process, with a bath ratio of 1:30. The dye concentration was 3%, and Na-hydrosulphite (Na2S2O4) was used as a reducing agent. The colouristic analyses were performed based on spectrophotometric measurement and results interpretation according to CIELAB system. The evaluation of primary tactile properties was performed which shown the increase of smoothness and softness after scouring and dyeing. Also, wash fastness as well as light fastness tests shown satisfactory fastness properties.

The complexity of the composition of inherently flame retardant fabrics makes it difficult to treat them in dyeing and printing procedures, and it is extremely difficult to achieve a certain aesthetic component of such fabrics. In this research, the analysis was performed on three selected types of inherent flame retardant fabrics whose composi-tion and construction was designed at the Univer-sity of Zagreb, Faculty of Textile Technology as part of a project for the development of fire re-tardant fabrics for dual use. The warp and weft composition of the tested fabrics are as follows: warp: 95% m-AR ; 5% para- AR ; weft: 30% PA 6.6 ; 35% m-AR ; 35% CV FR. The three fabric samples differ in structural characteristics: Fabric 1 is weaved in reps, Fabric 2 in twill 2/2, Fabric 3 in twill 3/1. The samples were subjected to a process of printing with reactive dyes, applying two concentrations of dyestuff and two types of thickeners each in two viscosities achieved with different ratios of dry matter and water. The sam-ples were tested for flame retardancy by deter-mining the Limited Oxygen Index (LOI), and the analysis of the print quality was performed by the test of wash fastness and colorimetric evaluation of the printed areas before and after washing. The achieved colour strength was analyzed through the objective evaluation of K/S values. The col-ouration of individual fabric components was an-alyzed by microscopic imaging of printed sur-faces. The research is related to the development of a functional fabric that has the properties of inherent non-flammability and high comfort whose visual and functional properties can be im-proved through printing.

In the paper, different types of polymers (rPLA, PETG, TPU) printed with a 3D printer are tested on textile material used for car interiors. The primary goal is to examine the possibility of 3D printing on textiles for the automotive industry, its adhesive and other mechanical properties. A further goal is to explore possibilities for new ways of designing and aesthetic efficiency of materials used in vehicles as well as potential ergonomically positive effects. The adhesion properties of the polymer-textile material, the strength printed on the surface using the tape method, the wear resistance of the polymer printed on the textile and the ageing of the polymer under simulated conditions are tested. The results are used to select a suitable polymer for the 3D printer and print it on the selected textile material for automotive industry.

Flame retardant (FR) textiles represent one of the specific and significant niche on the world textiles market, designed to protect against fire hazards. Most textile materials are flammable, so it is necessary to make them less flammable. Inherent FR fabrics are designed from fibres when there is no need to carry out additional treatments to achieve the desired FR effects. The proposed concept covers a production and implementation of the inherent FR fabric designed in twill from aramid fibres. The first one refers to the finishing stage in the production of yarn, where two fixation media are varied by selection of paraffin and a steam for the fixation of protruding fibres in yarn. The second refers to durability of designed fabric through exposure to processes of washing. Functional and surface properties of designed FR fabrics were examined before and after washing. The aim of a research was asessment of FR properties and surface of designed inherent fabrics in a production and implementation phase.

Large amounts of plastics used for a different purposes caused a certain environmental problems. Analysis of microplastic samples (MP) from the environment, shown that textile fibres are common source of pollution. This study was focused on the characterization of standard polyester fabric after exposure to artificial aging and 10 washing cycles. The study addressed two issues: • impact of artificial light and wash media on the surface properties of polyester fabrics • applicability of multivariate analysis (MVA) for assessment of polyester samples before and after exposure to light and washing

The woven fabric structure is defined by the construction parameters, of which the most influential are weave and thread density. In order to characterize the woven fabric surface in detail, it is necessary to perceive it on several levels (macro, meso, micro). At the meso level, the topographic properties of woven fabrics are observed, which are described by the parameters of surface roughness and waviness. Typical topography is expressed by periodic repetition of waves in the vertical and horizontal directions resulting from its structure. Roughness is defined by closely spaced irregularities while waviness is manifested in widely spaced irregularities on the fabric surface. Different methods (contact and non-contact) have been developed to characterize the fabric surface roughness. For this research, the contact method on the Fabric Touch Tester device was used. The aim of this research is to present a detailed investigation and explanation of the effects of weave types on the surface roughness of woven fabrics in the warp and weft direction. Both directions consist of the same raw material (PA6.6/CO - 50% Polyamide 6.6, 50% Cotton) and the same fineness (15.5x2 tex). Fabric specification is shown in Table 1. The root mean square (Figure 1) is the square root of the average of the square of the deviation of the profile from the mean line which represents the surface roughness with amplitude variations included. Figure 1 shows that the highest roughness has the fabric woven in plain weave while satin fabric has the lowest. This confirms the theory of the influence of thread flotation on the woven fabric surface roughness. In addition, in the case of twill fabrics, Twill 1/3 has a higher roughness due to full interlacement of every 4th thread.

The mixed cotton/polyester textiles were washed in 5 cycles according to the standard procedure with and without detergent. The wastewater generated during washing was cumulatively collected and solid particles were separated by membrane filtration to identify released particles from the textiles, which represent potential environmental pollution with microplastic particles. By applying the pyrolytic decomposition method with the Py- GC/MS instrument, a qualitative and quantitative analysis of the particles released in the washing process was performed. The results of the analysis indicate the presence of chemical compounds characteristic of the decomposition of polymeric and cellulosic materials. The obtained results are used for the analysis of the estimation of the release of microplastic particles during washing.

Today, textile fibres and materials are besides producing garments, also used for a wide range of other products such as: different types of transport vehicles, sportswear, protective equipment, etc. Textile fibres are also increasingly used as structural materials, in so-called fibres reinforced composites. Such variety of textile usage cause their frequent occurrence as material traces in criminal act or accidental situations. The qualification and quantification of high- performance materials damages are extremely difficult especially when it comes to damages caused by firearms. In this work, through systematic approach and the application of standardized destructive and/or new, non- destructive textiles testing methods, the possibilities of objective evaluation of high-performance composite materials damages caused by firearms have been explored. Special attention was put on the impact of firearm types (different calibre) and firing distance on the resulting damages of modern composite materials. Acquired findings enable the exact characterization of created damage as well as the type of weapons that committed the criminal offense, which is one of the basic prerequisites in dealing with crimes.

U radu su razrađeni parametri stupnjevite obrade celuloznih materijala sa svrhom postizanja zaštite od topline (FR svojstva) Proban® kvalitete. Istaknuti su potencijalni rizici, poglavito u njezi funkcionalne odjeće ovoga tipa. Dati su i primjeri loše prakse, koji su u potpunosti narušili kvalitetu i stupanj zaštite. Istaknute su ekološke karakteristike obrade i materijala, koje uz izvrsna FR zaštitna svojstva, predstavljaju dodanu vrijednost Proban® artikala

Esterquat-based softeners belong to the group of cationic surfactants, which are presently gaining importance due to their functionality and environmental benefits. The work explores their adsorption affinity for the fabrics of cotton and cotton blends with polyester. Considering the importance of the substrate surface, adsorption preceding characterisation of fabric surface charge depending on the pH of the electrolyte solution in the concentration of 0.001 mol/l have been determined. Electrokinetic behaviour of the fabric in adjustable cell is evaluated by the streaming potential method in the SurPASS device. This method is subsequently applied to study the adsorption of esterquats on the fabrics, as well as to monitor their desorption. In the final stage, the adsorption of esterquats is conducted technologically through the exhaustion process at 20 °C for 15 minutes. Adsorption of softeners is evaluated by electrokinetic and technological indicators. Streaming potential measured, depending on the amount of gradually added softener, is indicated as a fabric point of zero charge (PZC) and as the stability of the adsorbed softener through desorption process. Measuring spectral characteristics of softened fabrics, subsequently dyed with Bromo Phenol Blue, is certain uniformity of adsorbed fabric softener. Results have confirmed a significant impact of the fabric surface charge on the adsorption of esterquat on cotton and polyester/cotton fabrics. The appropriateness of electrokinetic measurements prior to the implementation of adsorption through exhaustion process has been confirmed.

Mješavine obrađenih prirodnih i inherentno vatrootpornih materijala se razvijaju u svrhu smanjenja cijene i balansiranja nekih svojstava materijala, pri čemu se teži postići dobar stupanj zaštite sintetskih materijala i udobnost pri nošenju prirodnih materijala. Međutim, obrada celuloznih materijala specijalnim sredstvima u svrhu postizanja FR svojstava (svojstva zaštite od gorenja) predstavlja i danas izazov za tekstilne kemičare. U ovom radu je korišten celulozni materijal Proban® kvalitete, namijenjen za izradu odjeće za varioce. Analizirana je postojanost na pranje u laboratorijskim uvjetima, pri čemu su varirani sastav kupelji, vrsta sredstva za pranje i broj ciklusa. Praćen je utjecaj pH kupelji za pranje, te sredstava za pranje na postojanost Proban® odjeće mjerenjem graničnog indeksa kisika (LOI), kalorimetrijskih parametara, spektralnih karakteristika, UV zaštitnih svojstava, vlačnih svojstava i izgleda površine mikroskopskom analizom. Rezultati su potvrdili visoku otpornost materijala opranog kroz 10 ciklusa u svim programima na gorenje ; značajne promjene spektralnih karakteristika ; vrhunski stupanj zaštite od UV zračenja ; dobra vlačna svojstva i značajnu fibrilaciju.

Europske kulturne rute su tematske rute od kulturne vrijednosti ili s elementima kulturne baštine gdje ključnu ulogu igraju kulturne atrakcije na bilo kojem internacionalnom području u Europi. Svaka kulturna ruta specifična je na svoj način, a razlikuje se od drugih po svojoj temi, dužini putovanja, te načinu obilaska (automobilom, pješice, biciklom, penjanjem, itd.). U radu su navedena načela i ciljevi koje svaka ruta mora zadovoljavati kako bi se projekt mogao uopće ostvariti, no najvažnija komponenta bez koje Europska kulturna ruta ne može postojati je međunarodna suradnja stručnih timova i svih motiviranih dionika. Također, navedene su sve Europske kulturne rute Vijeća Europe kao primjeri različitih i uspješnih projekata. Osim toga, u prethodnim poglavljima, posebno se ističe važnost fortifikacijskih obrambenih sustava diljem Europe koji imaju zajedničku vrijednost zbog koje bi se, međunarodnom suradnjom, mogao kreirati projekt Europske fortifikacijske kulturne rute. Neki od navedenih obrambenih sustava su u vrlo dobrom stanju zahvaljujući adekvatnom i kontinuiranom korištenju, dok su neki potpuno nepoznati na lokalnoj razini. Kao glavna problematika ističe se devastacija njihove arhitekture i neadekvatno korištenje kao posljedica neznanja i nebrige. Provedeno istraživanje pokazalo je da bi potencijalno rješenje bila edukacija lokalnog stanovništva o vrijednosti europske fortifikacijske arhitekture kroz organizaciju panela, seminara i raznih radionica. Rad završava vlastitom izradom moguće europske kulturne rute koja bi sve zainteresirane provela kroz prošlost najatraktivnijih fortifikacija s područja bivše Austro-Ugarske Monarhije. An European cultural route is a themed route of cultural values or elements of cultural heritage that assigns a key role to cultural attractions of any international field in Europe. Each cultural route is specific in its own way and it differs from others by its theme, the length of the journey and the way in which the same ends (by car, foot, bike, hiking, etc.). The paper sets out the principles and aims which each route must satisfy in order the project could be realized, but as a crucial component, without which the European cultural routes can not exist, is an international collaboration which consists of professional teams and motivated stakeholders. In the paper are listed all the European Cultural Routes of the Council of Europe as examples of diverse and successful projects. In addition, above mentioned chapters are particularly emphasizing the importance of fortified defense systems across Europe which shares a common value that could lead to creating a new project of the European Cultural Routes of fortification architecture. Some of these defense systems are in very good condition thanks to the adequate and continuous use, while others are completely unknown at the local level. The main issues are the devastation of their architecture and inadequate use which is a result of nescience and neglect. Through my own opinion it was said to be that the ideal solution to above mentioned problems is education of the local population about the fortification resources in Europe through the organization of panels, seminars and various workshops. Thus, this paper ends with creating a possible cultural route through the past of the greatest treasures from the former Austrian-Hungarian Empire.

Kvalifikacija i kvantifikacija oštećenja visokoučinkovitih kompozita iznimno je teška osobito kad se radi o oštećenjima izazvanim vatrenim oružjem. U ovom završnom radu istražen je utjecaj dvije različite udaljenosti opaljenja i utjecaj dva različita vatrena oružja na oštećenja visokoučinkovitih kompozita.