Search

In Order to coordinating the adaptability of complex woven fabrics to different sheds, a positive cam sheading mechanism suitable for semi shed was developed by combining conjugate cam, planar linkage group with the design of loom shedding system. After constructing a swing arm motion law with asymmetric static duration in MatLIb software, the static time of the lower warp yarn was effectively extended. On the basis of mechanism design, shed analysis and program Compilation, the accurate reverse design of the master cam theoretical profile and its pressure angle verification were carried out. The theoretical profile of the auxiliary cam was generated through path tracking simulation, and a digital functional prototype of the conjugate cam shedding mechanism was set up based on ADAMS/View. The research results indicate that there is good geometric closed contact between the master cam, auxiliary cam and the rollers, and the actual cam profile achieves ideal conjugate accuracy. Besides, the motion law of the heald frame is well matched with the swing arm follower, which can meet the requirement of long-term stop for the lower warp yarn on the semi shed. The work can provide important reference for the shed innovation and form improvement of the high-speed loom. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Patterned silks served as signifiers for rituals and status in early China. They were patterned using different techniques, for example, some sha -silks from Mawangdui dated to 168 CE were repeatedly stamped with motifs while other silks were woven with monochrome or polychrome motifs. The technical knowledge for producing such silks was embodied as internal memory in the artisans who predominantly worked in state- run workshops until the mid-first century BCE. Artisans also invented external memory devices to facilitate their work. Some devices – bronze stamps and pattern-shafts on looms – have been unearthed from Guangzhou and Laoguanshan dated to 122 and 118 BCE respectively. Most techniques did not circulate widely, and over time, some disappeared and were then replaced by others. Lacking artisans' own accounts, this article examines these external memory devices in the workshop context to suggest the hypothesis that the transmission of the embodied knowledge depended on the mobility and freedom of the artisans. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The air permeability of the fabric is affected by the type of yarn used, the loom speed, and the amount of air pressure delivered by the relay nozzles. In this study, 21 Ne of ring and rotor spun yarns were used as a weft in an air jet loom. Loom speed and left- and right-side relay nozzles pressure in a range of 400–600 RPM, 2–4 bar, and 3–6.5 bar, respectively, were taken as additional factors. To develop and analyze the experiment, a full factorial design was used. It was observed that the air permeability of rotor spun weft yarn fabric's is greater than ring spun weft yarn fabrics. Furthermore, when the speed of the loom increased and the left- and right-side relay nozzles air pressure decreased, the fabric's air permeability increased and vice versa. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Copyright of Cotton Textile Technology is the property of Cotton Textile Technology Editorial Office and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

This study examines 35 terracotta loom weights recovered during the excavations in the ancient city of Syedra, located in the Alanya district of Antalya. Humans have three basic needs to survive: nutrition, shelter and clothing. Although the exact date of the beginning of weaving, which emerged in order to meet the need for clothing, is unknown, archaeological data date back to the Upper Paleolithic Period. The development of weaving started with the Neolithic Period. Hand weaving is both tiring and takes a long time, which led to the emergence of weaving tools. Loom weights, used in weaving in Antiquity, were attached to the ends of the warp threads on the looms to keep the threads taut. Weaving weights of various forms are found in pyramidal and discoid forms in Syedra. Within the scope of the study, the artefacts were firstly measured and identified by digital methods, typologized according to the characteristics of their forms, and dated through their counterparts, taking into account the stratum in which they were found. There are no studies on loom weights in the Cilicia Region, which includes the ancient city of Syedra. Although no archaeological data has been found so far regarding the production of weaving tools and the existence of a weaving workshop in the ancient city of Syedra, the large number of loom weights found in the city strengthens the belief that they were locally produced rather than imported. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This article analyzes the memories and knowledge of women craftswomen from the provinces of the Cajamarca region in Peru, especially San Miguel, Chota (Tacabamba) and Cutervo, in the design and execution of the waist or qallwa weave. Exhaustive field and archival work was carried out to understand how this intangible cultural heritage is in constant motion throughout history. For a broader understanding of this enmeshed complex, an interdisciplinary dialogue is carried out through a tour the historical context of waist loom textiles in Cajamarca, pointing out changes and continuities in this know-how. All this to show how the qallwa loom constitutes one or the expressions of resilience on the part of these women's collectives. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Aiming at the problems of the poor motion stability and low motion accuracy of the rapier belt of the spatial four bar weft insertion mechanism, the optimization design of the mechanism was studied from two aspects of motion parameters and structural stiffness. Firstly, the motion law of the rapier belt is analyzed by using the theory of space mechanism, and its correctness is verified by software simulation, which provides a theoretical basis for the optimization design. Then, with the goal of minimizing the maximum acceleration of the rapier belt and the constraint condition of satisfying the weft insertion process and performance requirements, the parametric modeling of ADAMS was used to optimize the mechanism. Considering the flexibility of the weft insertion mechanism at high speed, a rigid-flexible coupling model was established and simulated, and the influence of the flexible deformation of each component on the motion accuracy of the rapier belt was analyzed. Finally, taking the connecting rod as an example, aiming at reducing the acceleration error of the rapier belt, a method was proposed to reduce the influence of flexible deformation by increasing the section size and structural stiffness. The results show that the maximum acceleration of the belt decreases by 35.7% after optimizing the motion parameters, and the motion stability is improved. After optimizing the structure stiffness, the acceleration error of the rapier belt is obviously reduced and the motion accuracy is improved. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In this contribution to the special issue on adult education, inclusion and justice we discuss how an inclusive pedagogy can foster a more just way of inhabiting litter polluted living environments, in which the interests of both human and non-human dwellers are taken into consideration. More precisely, we theorize how arts can function as study material and enable a collective sensitivity for the ways in which (non-)human entities (e.g., fishermen, seals, birds, litter pickers, tourists, plastic producers) constitute a 'sick' habitat. Based upon our theory-driven participatory action research with adult inhabitants of the litter polluted Belgian coast, we conclude that a study pedagogy has the power to constitute collective events of emancipation in which inhabitants of damaged living environments can start to inhabit these places, i.e., they become (more) attentive to the reciprocal relationships with other human and non-human entities and respond accordingly with care towards these entanglements. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Copyright of Cotton Textile Technology is the property of Cotton Textile Technology Editorial Office and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

Copyright of Cotton Textile Technology is the property of Cotton Textile Technology Editorial Office and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

The Dahua Lou loom, pivotal to Nanjing Yunjin weaving, constitutes an integral part of global intangible cultural heritage. Its intricate weaving technique remains unmatched by modern machinery, marking it as a vital cultural artefact warranting protection. However, current virtual interactive systems grapple with adequately demonstrating its craftsmanship due to limitations like system iteration, multi-system integration, and data interoperability. To address these challenges, this study proposes a method that synergizes knowledge ontology, virtual reality technology, and data-driven design.Knowledge ontology enables enhanced management, reuse, and wide-ranging dissemination of domain knowledge, improving system interoperability. This methodology is utilized in constructing the loom model, animation demonstration, and in integrating it into the virtual interactive system. This multifaceted application of knowledge ontology significantly bolsters the system's efficiency and optimizes its development, maintenance, and integration processes.This research provides crucial advancements in domain knowledge modeling, 3D visualization, and virtual reality interactive systems, playing a significant role in preserving cultural heritage. Despite certain limitations, it offers an immersive, intuitive, and enriched design experience. The study concludes with a critique of the developed system, discussions on the encountered challenges, and future research directions include improving and expanding the knowledge ontology based on the opinions and practical experiences of domain experts, enhancing system compatibility, and conducting broader evaluations. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

We propose a broad class of d-dimensional conformal field theories of SU(N) adjoint scalar fields generalising the 4d Fishnet CFT (FCFT) discovered by Ö. Gürdogan and one of the authors as a special limit of γ-deformed N = 4 SYM theory. In the planar N → ∞ limit the FCFTs are dominated by the "fishnet" planar Feynman graphs. These graphs are explicitly integrable, as was shown long ago by A. Zamolodchikov. The Zamolodchikov's construction, based on the dual Baxter lattice (straight lines on the plane intersecting at arbitrary slopes) and the star-triangle identities, can serve as a "loom" for "weaving" the Feynman graphs of these FCFTs, with certain types of propagators, at any d. The Baxter lattice with M different slopes and any number of lines parallel to those, generates an FCFT consisting of M (M – 1) fields and a certain number of chiral vertices of different valences with distinguished couplings. These non-unitary, logarithmic CFTs enjoy certain reality properties for their spectrum due to a symmetry similar to the PT-invariance of non-hermitian hamiltonians proposed by C. Bender and S. Boettcher. We discuss in more detail the theories generated by a loom with M = 2, 3, 4, and the generalisation of the loom FCFTs for spinning fields in 4d. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Aiming at shortcomings of domestic air-jet looms in terms of width and weft insertion rate, a highspeed air-jet loom control system based on ARM + FPGA was designed and developed. The FMC (Flexible Memory Controller) parallel bus was used to complete the data transmission between the two. According to the function of air-jet loom control system, the whole hardware control system was divided into main control subsystem, weft insertion control subsystem, clutch and brake subsystem, input and output subsystem, human-computer interaction subsystem and power supply subsystem by using the modular idea. According to the timing weaving process of air-jet loom weft insertion movement, FPGA internal hardware circuit with weft insertion control register and internal storage module as the core was designed. Based on FreeRTOS real-time operating system, high-speed weaving software framework was designed by using the Mealy finite state machine model and the spindle timing control strategy. Finally, the system was tested on the hardware control system simulation experimental platform. The results showed that the control system had the characteristics of stronger stability, faster running speed and stronger anti-interference ability, which can meet high-speed production demand of 540 cm nominal reed width of air-jet loom. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In the design of a woven fabric, the features of the loom to be used in production have a great deal of impact. Although a plain weave can be applied on any loom, many weaving patterns and techniques cannot be created on every loom. Therefore, the loom directly affects the pattern features as well as the technical features of the woven fabric designed. Except for the color factor, yarn factor, and manual interventions, the pattern variety and the repetitive motif size in the fabric are shaped according to the number of shafts the loom has in dobby weaving machines or shuttle weaving looms. The target group of this study, which was designed to emphasize that many alternative applications can be made despite the limitations originating from the loom characteristics, is weaving designers and especially students studying textile design. The current study aims to help them create their designs in their course projects or weaving competitions. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This article presents the dynamic modeling and analysis of an electric motor with integrated magnetic spring (EMMS) when it is coupled to a weaving loom application. The EMMS can provide the majority part of the oscillating part of the load in a passive way by the magnetic spring. The electric motor provides the average torque and the remaining oscillating part in an active way. This reduces the energy consumption. To create an accurate dynamic model for the EMMS, lookup tables are generated from a finite-element model. Further, a 4-bar linkage mechanism is employed to emulate the behavior of the shedding mechanism of a real weaving loom application. Eventually, the whole system dynamic model was created in Matlab environment. Moreover, a complete experimental setup was constructed to validate the effectiveness of the proposed dynamic model and the EMMS behavior. It is shown that the proposed dynamic model effectively predicts the performance of the EMMS system. Besides, it is proved that the EMMS can effectively reduce the energy consumption of the weaving loom application. The amount of reduction in the energy consumption depends on the designed magnetic spring. For the considered application, it can reach 57%. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Production of high-quality woven fabric with uniform fabric properties is an essential requirement for manufacturers. But in air-jet weaving, some quality parameters of the fabric are affected by twist loss of weft yarn during weft insertion. The aim of this work is to show the effect of polyester/cotton (PC) blend ratio, loom speed, and air pressure on weft yarn twist loss and tensile properties of the fabrics produced by air-jet weaving machines. Box-Behnken design has been used to design and analyze the experiment. 27 fabric samples were on an air-jet loom with a combination of four factors each at three levels (loom speed (A) 300rpm, 425rpm, and 550rpm), left side relay nozzle pressure (LSRNP) (B) (2.5 bar,3.25 bar, and 4 bar), Right side relay nozzle pressure (RSRNP)(C) (3 bar, 4.75 bar, and 6.5 bar), cotton/polyester blend (D) 100%/0%, 75%/25%, and 50%/50%,). The results of the experiment revealed that PC blend ratio, loom speed, and air pressure affect the twist level and the strength of the yarn significantly. It is found that relay nozzle air pressure is directly proportional to the twist losses and weft yarn strength loss. But the PC blend ratio has a more significant impact on weft yarn twist loss and mechanical properties of the yarn. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The classics of Chinese medicine are redolent with allusions to weaving as they describe a new imperial anatomy and physiology of the medical body. The superior physician in the Yellow Emperor's corpus manipulated ji 機 , the trigger mechanisms at strategic points on the surface of the body, which provided remote relief from the symptoms of illness. Through stimulating these points, medical practice with needle and moxibustion could control the many spirits that inhabited the body, weaving them into a numinous fabric. This paper explores the spatiotemporal geographies of meaning expressed in the manuscripts and artifacts excavated at the Laoguanshan tomb sites. In particular, an analysis of the medical texts, models of mechanical pattern shaft looms, and a tiny lacquered medical figurine recovered there suggest that local translational knowledge transfer between medicine, weaving, and water technologies occurred in the upper reaches of the Yangzi Valley. The resulting innovations were at the heart of a new imperial Chinese medicine. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The present research is motivated by an examination of the intimate link between women, looms, and woven products. In ancient and traditional Sundanese cosmology, the loom is regarded as Nyai Pohaci's embodiment (the Goddess of Rice). It is not, therefore, unexpected that women and looms are intertwined. Even when looms are no longer employed, woven clothes should be present at Sundanese offerings. This study seeks to highlight, analyze, and compare the material artifacts that accompany Sundanese verbal objects in the Lutung Kasarung pantun. The artifacts consist of Sundanese weaving-specific idioms and lexicon. The source of the artifacts is the old Sundanese story of Lutung Kasarung, which offers information about human activities at the time. In this narrative, linguistic artifacts are juxtaposed with visual material artifacts that are now infrequently used or unknown. The study method employs descriptive comparative data gathering techniques with purposeful sampling, as well as visual comparative analytical data processing techniques. Findings reveal that: (1) the linguistic and visual artifacts of looms are classified into three usage categories: (a) spinning cotton into yarn, (b) preparing yarn for weaving, and (c) weaving yarn into cloth; (2) compared to the modern Baduy looms (pakara tinun), the linguistic and material relics are distinct and far less wellknown among the population; and (3) in cultural interpretation, the loom becomes a symbol of Nyai Pohaci's sacrifice of her body for human wellbeing in the natural world and of Sundanese women's determination to settle down. In conclusion, there is a dialectical link between linguistic and visual material artifact comprehension. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This essay addresses the inclusion of artist-run craft workshops in the second iteration of the Bienal de La Habana (1986), held in Cuba's capital city. Advertised as spaces for technical training and the cultivation of subaltern solidarity, these events offered crucial opportunities for so-called Third World artists to meet, learn new skills, and develop an international reputation within the field of craft. As part of a larger effort to present before international audiences an anti-colonial aesthetics that favored production over reception, the Bienal included objects produced in collaboration with local participants. This article focuses on a workshop led by Spanish-Mexican artist Marta Palau in October and November 1986, and centers on the role that materials, process, and relations of production can play in emancipatory approaches to artistic practice. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The article considers small sacred cloths produced in Eastern Indonesia, an area known in the textiles literature as 'east of the Wallace line' as handwoven cloths produced in the region share essential characteristics. They are woven on back tension looms and show similarities in the weaving technique, composition and decoration methods. The first part of the article describes and analyses three weaving ceremonies on the island of Savu where a cloth locally considered as the most ancient and the most sacred textile is woven under certain conditions, raising the question of the type of loom on which it might have been originally woven. The second part is on the origin of the back tension loom used today in eastern Indonesia. Using linguistics and referring to advanced genetic methods as well as recent findings in navigation skills of ancient Austronesian people, I suggest a re-examination of the origin of the loom east of the Wallace line. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Copyright of Wool Textile Journal is the property of National Wool Textile Science & Technology Information Center and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

In order to expand the application space of jacquard tie, enrich the production varieties of jacquard looms, and resolve the problems of fixed width, warp density and single variety of jacquard looms limited, the jacquard drawing needle parquet design technology and production weaving were integrated by studying the inherent characteristics of jacquard tie and using Zhejiang University Jingwei CAD software. Then a series of patterned plates were designed to make the healds move as instructed, so as to realize " a multi-purpose assembly" and patterned woven on the machine. The research shows that the drawing needle parquet design process not only makes the jacquard fabric flexible and changeable and breaks through the inherent defects, but also easies to operate, saves time and labor in the renovation of varieties. Furthermore, it gives the loom the ability to produce high value-added fabrics, and improves the product competitiveness of enterprises. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Recent excavations of a modestly appointed house at the site of Morgantina in east-central Sicily recovered 175 loom weights or fragments thereof. In this study, we combine a detailed contextual analysis with new methodologies developed by the Center for Textile Research in Copenhagen in order to provide a comprehensive assessment of textile production in this house, the House of the Two Mills. Using these methods, we are able to identify the specific weights within the larger assemblage that most probably formed a single set, used together for weaving at this location. Moreover, the results of this analysis indicate that the loom weights that constituted this set would not have been produced and acquired all at once, but must have been accumulated by the household slowly over time. We propose that the most probable mechanism by which this slow process of accumulation played out would have been through household members passing down these textile tools as heirlooms across generations. We argue that in the process these weights would have been viewed by their users as having a value beyond their mere utilitarian function, instead becoming materializations of memory and the affective bonds formed in the intergenerational transfer of craft traditions. We conclude by considering the implications of this argument for the study of heirloom objects in archaeology and how a contextual understanding of broader Greek social institutions and practices can aid us in parsing peculiarities of the archaeological record. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Copyright of Zephyrus is the property of Ediciones Universidad de Salamanca and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

Back in 2020, I wrote an article entitled The Shroud of Turin and the Extra Sheds of Warping Threads (Olsen, 2020). When I was studying the weaving theory, I realised that it might be possible to weave 8-end satin with five rods on the warp-weighted loom. To date, I have not encountered any historical find showing satin woven on a warp-weighted loom eighter, nor have I heard or read about anybody else undertaking this, so I decided to try to test it. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The intelligent control strategy of electromagnetic clutch actuator is analyzed in detail in this paper. The start - stop control of the loom is realized by an electromagnetic clutch. The existing control method of electromagnetic clutch of loom is high and low pressure control strategy. The operator sets the braking advance angle according to experience, to realize the accurate braking of the spindle, but it is difficult to realize the fast and accurate control. In order to achieve good performance, it is very important to develop a fast and accurate loom braking system. Aiming at the fabric defects caused by the elongation of the warp when the loom is stopped, a method of stabilizing the excitation current of the electromagnetic clutch by using the neural adaptive PID (proportional integral differential) controller is proposed to improve the control precision of the actuator. The experimental results show that the proposed control algorithm is feasible and can effectively realize the adaptive control of the spindle braking Angle within the allowable error range. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Diderot writes, in the Encyclopedia, a long entry, "Stockings loom", in which he compares the loom to a reasoning whose conclusion would be the textile. He resumes this comparison in the Refutation of Helvetius: there, Leibniz himself becomes a reflection machine, similar to the "stockings loom". The materialistic option of the machineman resumes a tradition that assimilates text and weaving. We find the same image in Goethe's Faust, cited by Freud in the Interpretation of dreams, and Henry James' novel The figure in the carpet. Invention is always a crisscrossing, a weaving, and a miscegenation, in an interaction between technical creation and representation of the intellectual activity. The programing system of the looms was later adapted to the first analytical machines, ancestors to our current computers. The Encyclopedia theorized this interaction, rehabilitating the loom and conceiving thought as a work. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Designing an automatic loom that replenishes weft mechanically without operative intervention challenged the ingenuity of engineers and technologists from the middle of the 19th century until about 1970, when further development ceased in favour of shuttleless alternatives. Although well established in the United States for manufacturing basic cotton fabrics by 1914, and sufficiently well advanced for producing a wide range of fabrics by 1930, the diffusion of the automatic loom in the British cotton industry was sluggish until the 1950s. The reasons are best understood by examining the operational prerequisites, provision of which in Britain was confounded by longstanding rigidities in accounting policy and industrial relations at the level of the firm, and in strategic management at the level of the industry. At the heart of this was the longevity of the traditional non-automatic Lancashire loom, both in design and operation. The article is a counterpoise to the orthodox economic analyses that tend to be dismissive of technological constructs. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The movement characteristics of yarn in the profiled reed groove of an air-jet loom can have a great impact on the performance of the fabric. Unstable yarn movement tends to lead to weft defects, as short wefts or weft breaks may occur, which could deteriorate the quality of the final fabric. In this paper, the characteristics of the yarn movement in a profiled reed groove are numerically studied. The arbitrary Lagrangian–Eulerian method is used to solve the two-way airflow–yarn interaction and the yarn is simulated with the ball–socket model. A fluctuation ratio is defined to characterize the unsteadiness of the yarn movement. Our simulation first investigates the effect of the gap ratio of the profiled reed groove (β) on the yarn movement then compares the movements of different yarn kinds. The simulation results indicate that a larger β not only decreases gas leaks (thus saves gas consumption), but also stabilizes the yarn movement. Our simulation results also show that the movement of the yarn of polypropylene is more stable than the other two weft-yarn materials. An experiment is also conducted to validate our numerical results, which shows a favorable agreement between them. Our numerical results of the yarn movement in the profiled reed groove can provide a valuable insight into the optimization of the weft insertion system of the air-jet loom. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Traditional proportional–integral–derivative (PID) control performance optimization is an essential method to improve a loom's warp tension control performance. This work proposes an improved genetic algorithm optimized PID control scheme to overcome the decline in control performance of the traditional PID control algorithm in a loom's warp tension control system. Through the decoupling analysis of loom motion mechanism, the establishment of warp tension model and the optimization of fitness evaluation mechanism of genetic algorithm can effectively overcome the problems of local optimal solution and algorithm degradation of genetic algorithm. Simulation experiments were carried out with the traditional PID, the integral separation PID, and the genetic PID in warp tension control. The results show the advantage of the genetic-PID algorithm to control warp tension stability. Ultimately, according to the functional characteristics of the loom mechanism, a tension control platform for experimental studies was established. The test results show that the maximum fluctuation range of warp tension is within [−2, +6] at the test speed of 850 rpm, which meets the requirements of long-term stable and reliable control of warp tension under different weaving conditions. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Copyright of China Textile Leader is the property of China Textile Information Center and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

Copyright of Cotton Textile Technology is the property of Cotton Textile Technology Editorial Office and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

In order to solve the tension fluctuation of long warp yarn during loom weaving, a control method of differential separation I-RBF-PID let-off system based on online identification transfer function was proposed. It is difficult to establish an accurate mathematical model because of the nonlinear, time-varying and complex coupling characteristics of the let-off system caused by the clearance of the transmission system and the change of the reel diameter of the weaving shaft. LMS algorithm was used to identify the time-varying and high-order transfer function of loom, and the PID parameters were set by RBF neural network optimized by improved PSO. Step size optimizer and differential separation PID control strategy were introduced to improve the convergence accuracy and reduce overshoot of RBF-PID. The time-varying transfer function was applied to the I-RBF-PID control system by designing the transfer function updating formula. The results are compared with those of conventional PID controller and RBF-PID controller under the performance conditions of overshoot, arrival time and response speed. The effectiveness of the proposed high-precision tension control scheme was verified by experiments. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Even though multidisciplinary approaches are widely used for the investigation of archaeological findings, magnetic analyses are still little exploited and only rarely applied to the determination of ancient artefacts use. Here, we present the results of a combined archaeological, morphological, and magnetic study carried out on the ring-shaped clay artefacts found in large quantities at the Iron Age site of Villa del Foro (Alessandria, Northern Italy). The shape and the significant number of such artefacts make their archaeometric investigation very interesting in order to understand the technological conditions of their production and use. A morphological investigation carried out on 640 fragments showed inhomogeneity in their dimensions, color, form, and clay refinement. Magnetic measurements show thermal stability after heat treatment up to around 500–600 °C, while further heating at higher temperature introduces some magnetic mineralogy changes. Thermal demagnetization of the samples generally shows a strong and stable thermal remanent magnetization. In few cases, a clear secondary component is present, suggesting partial re-heating or displacement at temperatures ranging from 200 to 450 °C. The results obtained indicate that the investigated ring-shaped artefacts were baked during their manufacture at temperatures of at least 600 °C. The archaeomagnetic investigation does not show any systematic evidence for magnetic components related to cooking activities and it is therefore suggested that the rings were used as weight looms and baked only during their production procedures. Such pilot study can be used as reference for the identification and study of similar objects found in other archaeological sites worldwide. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The Norwegian reversible double-cloth tradition, known in areas of Scandinavia from the Viking Age to the Early Modern Era (eighth to 18th centuries), disappeared before it could be documented. Evidence indicates that surviving double-cloth coverlets were woven on the warp-weighted loom, raising the question of how the loom was utilised to produce these relatively complicated textiles. Building upon a prior study, experimentation in the width of a coverlet was conducted to determine the interaction between weight-row disposition and adequate shed formation, utilising four weight-rows placed in four separate configurations. Best results for shed formation were achieved with all rows behind the shed rod, but with the forward two rows attached to the shed rod at regular intervals. Heddle length was shown to impact both shed formation and pattern transfer, and heddle length together with weight-row placement revealed potential problems in accessing shed openings past the loom uprights. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

There is a large body of theoretical and experimental research aimed at determining the warp thread deformation and tension. Analytical solutions and mathematical models of the stressed state of the warp and weft threads in the formation of fabric were proposed. In almost all studies, the deformation of the warp thread was determined separately when shedding and beating the weft. There is an experimental method for determining the deformation of warp threads, which makes it possible to eliminate some of the shortcomings inherent in the theoretical techniques. However, that method has some drawbacks, such as the low accuracy of strain measurement and the complexity of certain measuring operations, which leads to an increase in the time spent on the experiment. This paper reports a study that addresses those shortcomings by proposing to photograph the object being measured using a digital camera connected to a computer system to print the image. An electronic caliper that is used to measure the deformation of warp threads on printing paper takes into consideration a fraction of a millimeter when measuring. The proposed method makes it possible to determine with sufficient accuracy and speed the deformation of warp threads in the elastic feed system of the loom, as well as allows visual control over the changes in the deformation of warp threads in the machine. The use of this method makes it possible to reduce the time of measuring the deformation of one thread from 30–40 seconds to 5–7 seconds, which is 5–6 times less than that in the existing one and provides measurement accuracy to at least one dozen mm. The results of this work could be applied to determine the warp thread deformation and tension on looms when making the main weave fabrics in order to reduce the uneven tension of the main threads, increase labor productivity, and improve the quality of the fabric. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A novel mechanism for the elimination of false selvedge in rapier looms was successfully designed and developed, which functions to grip the protruding weft ends after each pick insertion during the weaving process, with subsequent cutting and suction of the protruding ends. The task is otherwise, presently performed by the formation of dummy or false selvedges in the fabric, requiring additional yarn other than that required for the actual fabric. A significant amount of yarn is wasted to form false selvedges, as they are removed and disposed as hard waste post weaving, which consequently increases the cost of fabric and narrows the profit margins. The developed mechanism was successfully installed and commissioned on an indigenous rapier loom leading to a reduction in the amount of hard waste otherwise generated, without affecting the normal functioning of the loom and the weaving process. The amount of reduction in hard waste was estimated and the quality of fabric manufactured before and after the installation was tested and analyzed. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]