Search

金沢大学人間社会研究域学校教育系, Basic mechanical properties and hand of fabric were pursued through a finishing process of the fabric woven from New Zealand Crossbred wool yarns by objective evaluation method using KES-FB system and following results were obtained. The fabric sampled from off loom showed hard and became harder after singeing stage intensile, bending, shearing and compressional properties. However, the fabric became soft greatly by the next crabbing-scouring stages. The effect of the subsequent dyeing, drying, cropping, paper pressing and blowing (decatizing) stages on the mechanical properties were small. Although primary hand values and total hand value also changed remarkably by the singeing stage, they became moderate and high rank respectively by the next crabbing-scouring stage. The large change by the singeing stage was due to the cinders which remained between fibers and they were removed completely by the next crabbing-scouring stage. Surface characteristics did not correspond well with surface “prickliness”. 目的 繊維径の太いニュージーランド産のクロスブレッドウールを用いた布の仕上処理工程の各種段階より採取した試料について, 布の力学特性及び風合いの変化を, KES-FBシステムを用いた客観評価法により追跡する.成果 力学特性では, 引っ張り, 曲げ, せん断及び圧縮の全ての特性において, 織り下ろし状態では剛く, 次の毛焼工程では更に剛くなるが, 次の煮絨, 洗絨工程では大幅に柔らかくなり, その後の染色, 乾燥, せん毛, ペーパープレス及び蒸絨工程の影響は小さいことが明らかとなった.基本風合いや総合風合いも毛焼工程によって大きく変化し, KOSHIやHARIは高く, FUKURAMIは低くなり, THVも低下するが, 次の煮絨洗絨工程によって基本風合いは適度の値となり, THVも向上することが分かった.これら力学特性や風合いが毛焼工程によって大きく変化する原因は繊維間や糸間に残存する燃えかすであり, これは後の工程で容易に除去されるため, 最終製品には全く影響を及ぼさないことが示された.布表面の “ちくちく感” は表面特性値とはあまり対応しなかった.