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Givaudan Active Beauty has developed an ingredient derived from Persicaria tinctoria, a botanical species of the buckwheat family, with the purpose of replicating the positive effects of sunlight. This innovative extract is designed to promote well-being and stimulate tanning without the need for actual sun exposure. Its main focus is to address the mood changes that occur during seasonal transitions, particularly in winter, when there is limited sun exposure and lower levels of vitamin D3. Givaudan conducted extensive research using in vitro models of keratinocytes and melanocytes that were co-cultured and ex vivo models to evaluate the pro-pigmenting activity. β-endorphin and oxytocin were quantified in the culture medium of keratinocytes stimulated with the extract. Vitamin D3 production was measured after the grinding of skin explants treated for several days with Persicaria tinctoria extract. Finally, clinical trials were conducted to demonstrate the extract's ability to enhance mood and improve skin health. Corroborating the hypothesis that the extract can act as a "molecular sun", the results demonstrated its ability to significantly increase melanin content up to +66% in skin explants in comparison with placebo cream. In keratinocytes stimulated with the extract, β-endorphins increased by +43% and oxytocin by +229%. Vitamin D3 production rose significantly to 86.5%. A positive effect on mood was confirmed in vivo in a panel of volunteers who fill specific questionnaires and said they observed a significant reduction of tiredness and an increase of affectionate mood state, leading to an overall improvement of low mood. In summary, Persicaria tinctoria extract offers myriad of sun-mimicking benefits including tanning activity, mood-enhancement and vitamin D3 stimulation. This can help address vitamin D deficiency and support overall skin and body health, particularly in regions and seasons with limited sunlight. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Recently, many plant-derived bioactive agents have been included in dermo-cosmetics formulations. This leads to an extensive portfolio of innovative products with an expanded range of benefits, including anti-aging, antioxidant, hydrating and depigmenting. Although different technologies drawing on science and nature are used to create these high-performing molecules, there remains some debate about the mechanism of action of the natural bioactive ingredients within dermo-cosmetics. This review recapitulates the main biological mechanisms underlying the activity of natural active ingredients, with a specific focus on their synergistic use for the management of common, yet quite specific, skin conditions. A total of 28 plant-derived bioactives were selected from the Givaudan Active Beauty (Argenteuil, France) portfolio, a multinational company specializing in innovative natural actives research. An extensive literature review about their biological activity was conducted by a PubMed search using different keywords. No language or publication date restrictions were used. Givaudan Active Beauty data on file were also considered. The bioactive ingredients were described according to the pathogenetic mechanisms underlying 10 common skin conditions that dermo-cosmetics may address. Literature data have shown that plant-derived bioactives are involved in a wide range of biological mechanisms showing anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and moisturizing properties, along with skin barrier protection and collagen synthesis activities. As a result, different combinations of bioactives within dermo-cosmetics can be defined to counteract simultaneously the different pathogenetic mechanisms underlying different skin conditions. Available literature supports the synergistic use of plant-derived bioactive agents within dermo-cosmetics as a viable and safe option for managing the most common skin conditions. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Oily skin is one of the most common issue in the cosmetic field and concern both teenagers and adults from all ethnicities. Unfortunately, the current irritating treatments lead to skin dryness, sebaceous gland atrophy and impact the skin barrier integrity. The aim of this study was to evaluate Mangifera indica extract as a new way to solve oily condition for Caucasian, African and Asian skins. Mangifera indica significantly reduced the production of lipids on various ethnicities on human sebocytes derived from iPS. Transcriptomic analysis on all ethnicities of several genes involved in sebum production has demonstrated that Mangifera indica significantly regulated lipogenesis on iPS-derived-human sebocytes. Ex vivo studies confirmed that Mangifera indica played on lipogenesis inhibition without impacting integrity of sebaceous glands. Finally, we confirmed at the clinical level a significant reduction of sebum production on Caucasian, Asian and African skins. Our results showed that Mangifera indica is an inclusive seboregulator, efficient on the three major ethnicities through an innovative mode of action controlling lipogenesis without impacting sebaceous gland morphology. Considering that sebum overproduction is related to acne concern, our results support a role for Mangifera indica in the therapeutic strategy for prevention and treatment of acne. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]