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Digital stress is a newly identified cosmetic stress that is mainly characterized by blue light exposure. The effects of this stress have become increasingly important with the emergence of personal digital devices, and its deleterious effects on the body are now well-known. Blue light has been observed to cause perturbation of the natural melatonin cycle and skin damage similar to that from UVA exposure, thus leading to premature aging. “A melatonin-like ingredient” was discovered in the extract of Gardenia jasminoides, which acts as a filter against blue light and as a melatonin-like ingredient to prevent and stop premature aging. The extract showed significant protective effects on the mitochondrial network of primary fibroblasts, a significant decrease of −86% in oxidized proteins on skin explants, and preservation of the natural melatonin cycle in the co-cultures of sensory neurons and keratinocytes. Upon analysis using in silico methods, only the crocetin form, released through skin microbiota activation, was found to act as a melatonin-like molecule by interacting with the MT1-receptor, thus confirming its melatonin-like properties. Finally, clinical studies revealed a significant decrease in wrinkle number of −21% in comparison to the placebo. The extract showed strong protection against blue light damage and the prevention of premature aging through its melatonin-like properties.

Background Monitoring the transcutaneous permeation of exogenous molecules using conventional techniques generally requires long pre-analytical preparation or labelling of samples. However, Raman spectroscopy is a label-free and non-destructive method which provides spatial distribution of tracked actives in skin. The aim of our study was to prove the interest of Raman imaging coupled with multivariate curve resolution alternating least square (MCR-ALS) analysis in monitoring retinol penetration into frozen and living human skin. Materials and methods After topical treatment of skin samples by free or encapsulated retinol, thin cross sections were analysed by Raman imaging (up to 100 µm depth). Mann-Whitney test was used to identify retinol spectroscopic markers in skin. MCR-ALS was used to estimate retinol contribution in Raman spectral images. Heat maps were constructed to compare the distribution of free and encapsulated retinol in skin models. Results We identified the bands at 1158, 1196 and 1591 cm-1 as specific features for monitoring retinol in skin. Moreover, our MCR-ALS results showed an improvement of retinol penetration (up to 30 µm depth) with the encapsulated form as well as storage reservoir formation in stratum corneum, for each skin model. Finally, greater retinol penetration into living skin was observed. Conclusion This study shows a proof of concept for the evaluation of retinol penetration in skin using Raman imaging coupled with MCR-ALS. This concept needs to be validated on more subjects to include inter-individual variability but also other factors affecting skin permeation (age, sex, pH, etc). Our study can be extended to other actives.

During aging, human skin is facing hyperpigmentation disorders: senile lentigo (chronobiologic aging) leads to loss of melanogenesis' control while solar lentigo (UV exposure) promotes an increase of oxidized proteins, melanogenesis, and lipofuscin.Stromal-cell-derived-factor-1 (SDF-1) was identified as key regulator of hyperpigmentation and its expression is reduced in senescent fibroblasts, highlighting this protein as new target for skin hyperpigmentation.We developed two skin explant models mimicking of senile and solar lentigo, based on HSDF-1 expression decreased in senile lentigo model, associated with hyperpigmentation. HEX application restored SDF-1 expression, leading to skin pigmentation decrease. For solar lentigo, we showed an impact of UVs on SDF-1 expression linked to hyperpigmentation, while the application of HEX restored SDF-1 expression and reduced skin pigmentation. On same model, HEX reduced oxidized proteins quantity and lipofuscin which increased after UV exposure. Clinically, HEX reduced dark spot pigmentation on Caucasian volunteers' hands and on Asian and African volunteers' face after 28 days.We have developed ex vivo models mimetic of senile and solar lentigo and showed for a very first time that SDF-1 can be also a key regulator for UV-induced hyperpigmentation.Our ex vivo and clinical studies highlighted the power of HEX with strong reduction of dark spots regardless of volunteers' ethnicities.

(1) Background: Preclinical studies report that the ethanolic fraction from

Skin lipids are essential in every compartment of the skin where they play a key role in various biological functions. Interestingly, their role is central in the maintenance of hydration which is related to skin barrier function and in the skin structure through adipose tissue. It is well described today that skin lipids are affected by ageing giving skin sagging, wrinkles and dryness. Thereby, developing cosmetic actives able to reactivate skin lipids would be an efficient ant-ageing strategy. Due to the strong commitment of our scientists to innovate responsibly and create value, they designed a high value active ingredient named here as Vetiver extract, using a ground-breaking upcycling approach. We evidenced that this unique extract was able to reactivate globally the skin lipids production, bringing skin hydration and plumping effect for mature skin.In order to demonstrate the global renewal of lipids, we evaluated the lipids synthesis on cutaneous cells that produce lipids such as keratinocytes, sebocytes and adipocytes then on Reconstructed Human Epidermis and skin explants. We evaluated the expression of proteins involved in ceramides transport and barrier cornification. We then evaluated hydration and sebaceous parameters on a panel of mature volunteers.We firstly demonstrated that Vetiver extract induced sebum production from human sebocytes cells lines but also improved its quality as observed by the production of specific antimicrobial lipids. Secondly, we demonstrated that Vetiver extract was able to restore skin barrier with the increase of skin lipids neosynthesis on Reconstructed Human Epidermis and skin explants. We also evidenced that Vetiver extract stimulated the lipids transport and epidermal cornification. Finally, Vetiver extract showed a significant effect on adipogenesis and maturation of adipocytes at in vitro and ex vivo models. We confirmed all these activities by showing that Vetiver extract improved sebum production and brought hydration through an increase of lipids content and their conformation. Vetiver extract induced an improvement of skin fatigue and a plumping effect by acting deeply on adipose tissue.In conclusion, we developed an active ingredient able to bring anti-ageing effect for mature skin by a global increase of skin lipids.Les lipides de la peau sont essentiels dans chaque compartiment de la peau où ils jouent un rôle clé dans diverses fonctions biologiques. Il est intéressant de noter que leur rôle est central dans le maintien de l'hydratation, liée à la fonction de barrière cutanée, mais aussi dans la structure même de la peau, par le biais du tissu adipeux. Il est bien décrit aujourd'hui que les lipides de la peau sont affectés par le vieillissement, ce qui entraîne un relâchement de la peau, des rides et une sécheresse. Ainsi, le développement d'actifs cosmétiques capables de réactiver les lipides de la peau serait une stratégie efficace de lutte contre le vieillissement. En raison de l'engagement fort de nos scientifiques à innover de manière responsable et à créer de la valeur, ils ont conçus un ingrédient actif à forte valeur ajoutée, appelé ici extrait de Vétiver, en utilisant une approche révolutionnaire de « up-cycling ». Nous avons démontré que cet extrait unique était capable de réactiver globalement la production de lipides de la peau, apportant une hydratation de la peau et un effet repulpant pour les peaux matures. MÉTHODES: Afin de démontrer le renouvellement global des lipides, nous avons évalué la synthèse des lipides sur les cellules cutanées qui produisent des lipides tels que les kératinocytes, les sébocytes et les adipocytes, puis sur un modèle d’Epiderme Humain Reconstruit et les explants de peau. Nous avons évalué l'expression des protéines impliquées dans le transport des céramides et la kératinisation de la barrière cutanée. Nous avons ensuite évalué l'hydratation et les paramètres sébacés sur un panel de volontaires matures. RÉSULTATS: Nous avons tout d'abord démontré que l'extrait de Vétiver induit la production de sébum à partir de lignées cellulaires de sébocytes humains mais améliore également sa qualité comme l'indique la production de lipides antimicrobiens spécifiques. Ensuite, nous avons démontré que l'extrait de Vétiver était capable de restaurer la barrière cutanée grâce à l'augmentation de la néosynthèse lipidique sur un modèle d’Epiderme Humain Reconstruit et sur des explants de peau. Nous avons également démontré que l'extrait de Vétiver stimulait le transport des lipides et la kératinisation de l'épiderme. Enfin, l'extrait de Vétiver a montré un effet significatif sur l'adipogenèse et la maturation des adipocytes dans des modèles in vitro et ex vivo. Nous avons confirmé à l’échelle clinique toutes ces activités en montrant que l'extrait de Vétiver améliorait la production de sébum et apportait une hydratation grâce à une augmentation de la teneur en lipides ainsi qu’une modification de leur conformation. L'extrait de Vétiver a induit une amélioration de la fatigue cutanée et un effet repulpant en agissant en profondeur sur le tissu adipeux.En conclusion, nous avons développé un ingrédient actif capable d'apporter un effet anti-âge aux peaux matures par une augmentation globale des lipides de la peau.

Dark spots, brown spots, or hyperpigmented spots (HPS) are oval or irregular brown areas of skin. Their emergence is associated with dysregulation of the immune system, and may also be caused by a deficiency in stromal cell-derived factor-1, leading to perturbed melanogenesis and accumulation of melanosomes within neighboring keratinocytes. The skin microbiota (living microorganisms present on the surface of the skin) is known to play essential roles in maintaining skin homeostasis and in regulating the immune system. Here, we investigated whether the microbiota could play a role in the emergence of HPS.The clinical study involved 38 European women, selected from among 74 volunteers. Participants were divided into two groups depending on the spot areas measured on their faces. The study was designed to avoid conflicting factors: both groups presented similar skin pH, hydration, transepidermal water loss, and sebum levels. The two cohorts were also age-matched, with a mean of 29-years-old for both.Alpha-diversity of the microbiota was similar for the two groups. On skins with more HPS, seven bacterial genera were identified in significantly higher proportions and included opportunistic pathogens and inflammatory bacteria. Six bacterial genera, including bacteria showing antioxidant and anti-UV properties, were identified in significantly higher proportions on less spotted skins. Cross-domain association networks revealed distinct co-occurrences of genera between the two groups, suggesting nonidentical community structures and exchanges, depending on the HPS status.Our results reveal specific microbiota composition and networks on skins based on HPS status. Changes could alter communication with the immune system, leading to the emergence of dark spots. As an essential part of the overall skin ecosystem, and through its interaction with the skin matrix, the skin microbiota and its maintenance could be considered a new target for skincare applications.

Background Intrinsic aging promotes wrinkles formation by an imbalance between matrix synthesis/degradation in favor of degradation. This is accelerated by the exposome leading to overproduction of protease and fewer remodeling. Objective Protecting the integrity of extracellular matrix appears as the most efficient anti-aging solution. We developed a grafted HA specifically designed to get anti-aging property due to a specific molecular weight and acetylation degree. Methods A transcriptomic analysis was performed on fibroblasts, followed by a measurement of MMP secretion and subsequent effect on collagen degradation. MMP expression in skin explants concerned by chronobiological and extrinsic aging was analyzed by immunostaining. A clinical study was conducted on volunteers presenting wrinkles on face to evaluate flash reduction of wrinkles after 6 h of application by profilometry and anti-aging efficacy after 2 months by VISIA® CR2.3. Results Transcriptomic analysis evidenced an inhibition of MMP gene expression with acetylated HA, confirmed by an inhibition of MMPs release by fibroblasts, and a protection of type I collagen against degradation. We confirmed the reduction of MMPs in mature skin and in skin explants exposed to UV and urban dust. We demonstrated during clinical studies the flash reduction effect of acetylated HA on crow's feet wrinkles and a filling of nasogenian areas 6 h after application, and a wrinkles number reduction on nasogenian area up to 2 months of application. Conclusion We developed a new grafted HA owing protective properties against ECM degradation induced by chronobiological and extrinsic aging, leading to a significant and efficient anti-wrinkles effect.

Background Several studies evidenced significant increase of cortisol is the consequence of UV or emotional stress and leads to various deleterious effects in the skin. Aim The well-aging, a new concept of lifestyle, procures an alternative to the anti-aging strategy. We demonstrated that Tephrosia purpurea extract is able to stimulate well-being hormones while reducing cortisol release. Furthermore, we hypothesized that the extract could positively influence the global skin homeostasis. Method We evaluated the impact of the extract on cortisol, β-endorphin, and dopamine, released by normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEKs). A gene expression study was realized on NHEKs and NHDFs. The protein over-expression of HMOX1 and NQO1 was evidenced at cellular and tissue level. Finally, we conducted a clinical study on 21 women living in a polluted environment in order to observe the impact of the active on global skin improvement. Results The extract is able to reduce significantly the cortisol release while inducing the production of β-endorphin and dopamine. The gene expression study revealed that Tephrosia purpurea extract up-regulated the genes involved in antioxidant response and skin renewal. Moreover, the induction of HMOX and NQO1 expression was confirmed on NHDFs, NHEKs and in RHE. We clinically demonstrated that the extract improved significantly the skin by reducing dark circles, represented by an improvement of L*, a*, and ITA parameters. Conclusion Tephrosia purpurea extract has beneficial effects on skin homeostasis through control of the well-being state and antioxidant defenses leading to an improvement of dark circles, a clinical features particularly impacted by emotional and environmental stress.

Background Healthy skin is a delicate balance between skin renewal and microbiota homeostasis, and its imbalance promotes premature aging and dermatological disorders. Skin stem cells are key actors in this process but their sensitivity to aging and external stressors such as UV reduces the skin renewal power. The skin microbiota has been recently described as active in the healthy skin, and its imbalance could trigger some disorders. Aims We hypothesized that reactivation of stem cells and maintenance of microbiota could be a disruptive strategy for younger and healthier skin. We thus developed a new plant extract that restores the entire skin renewal process by sequential activation from stem cells stimulation to microbiota protection. Methods We studied stem cells comportment in the presence of Orobanche rapum extract by survivin immunocytochemistry and caspases 3 and 9 dosages. We also analyzed epidermal differentiation markers by immunohistochemistry and lipids organization by GC/MS At the clinical level, we investigated the impact of O. rapum extract on microbiota and on skin aspect. Results We demonstrated an active protection of skin stem cells through the maintenance of their clone-forming capacity and resistance to UV through the overexpression of survivin coupled to caspases inhibition. Furthermore, we showed the restoration of epidermal differentiation markers and ceramide biosynthesis favorable to orthorhombic organization. Clinical studies, including microbiota analysis, showed an active skin surface renewal coupled with microbiota protection. Conclusion We evidenced that our active ingredient is able to stimulate skin rejuvenation while protecting the cutaneous microbiota, creating healthier skin and thereby beauty.

Objective In hair care cosmetic products’ evaluation, one commonly used method is to evaluate the hair appearance as a gold standard in order to determine the effect of an active ingredient on the final state of the hair via visual appreciation. Although other techniques have been proposed for a direct analysis of the hair fibres, they give only surface or structural information, without any accurate molecular information. A different approach based on confocal Raman spectroscopy has been proposed for tracking in situ the molecular change in the keratin directly in the human hair fibres. It presents a high molecular specificity to detect chemical interactions between molecules and can provide molecular information at various depths at the cortex and cuticle levels. Methods To evaluate the potential of confocal Raman spectroscopy in testing the efficiency of cosmetic ingredients on keratin structure, we undertook a pilot study on the effectiveness of a smoothing shampoo on natural human hair, by analysing α‐helix and β‐sheet spectral markers in the Amide I band and spectral markers specific to the cystin sulfur content. Results We confirmed that an active proved to be effective on a gold standard decreases α‐helix keratin conformation and promotes β‐sheet keratin conformation in the hair fibres. We also showed that treatment with the effective active decreases the intensity of covalent disulfide (S–S at 510 cm‐1) cross‐linking bands of cysteine. These data confirm that the effective active also acts on the tertiary structure of keratin. Conclusion From these experiments, we concluded that the effective active has a smoothing effect on the human hair fibres by acting on α‐helix and β‐sheet keratin conformation and on the tertiary structure of keratin. Based on these results, confocal Raman spectroscopy can be considered a powerful technique for investigating the influence of hair cosmetic ingredients on keratin structure in human hair fibres. Moreover, this analytical technique has the advantage of being non‐destructive and label free; in addition, it does not require sample extraction or purification and it can be applied routinely in cosmetic laboratories., Confocal Raman spectroscopy can be considered as a powerful technique for investigating the influence of hair cosmetic ingredients on keratin structure in human hair fibres.

International audience; The aim of the present study was to investigate the neuro-soothing activity of a water-soluble hydrolysate obtained from the red microalgae Rhodosorus marinus Geitler (Stylonemataceae). Transcriptomic analysis performed on ≈100 genes related to skin biological functions firstly revealed that the crude Rhodosorus marinus extract was able to significantly negatively modulate specific genes involved in pro-inflammation (interleukin 1α encoding gene, IL1A) and pain detection related to tissue inflammation (nerve growth factor NGF and its receptor NGFR). An in vitro model of normal human keratinocytes was then used to evaluate the ability of the Rhodosorus marinus extract to control the release of neuro-inflammation mediators under phorbol myristate acetate (PMA)-induced inflammatory conditions. The extract incorporated at 1% and 3% significantly inhibited the release of IL-1α and NGF secretion. These results were confirmed in a co-culture system of reconstructed human epithelium and normal human epidermal keratinocytes on which a cream formulated with the Rhodosorus marinus extract at 1% and 3% was topically applied after systemic induction of neuro-inflammation. Finally, an in vitro model of normal human astrocytes was developed for the evaluation of transient receptor potential vanilloid 1 (TRPV1) receptor modulation, mimicking pain sensing related to neuro-inflammation as observed in sensitive skins. Treatment with the Rhodosorus marinus extract at 1% and 3% significantly decreased PMA-mediated TRPV1 over-expression. In parallel with these biological experiments, the crude Rhodosorus marinus extract was fractionated by centrifugal partition chromatography (CPC) and chemically profiled by a recently developed 13C NMR-based dereplication method. The CPC-generated fractions as well as pure metabolites were tested again in vitro in an attempt to identify the biologically active constituents involved in the neuro-soothing activity of the Rhodosorus marinus extract. Two active molecules, namely, γ-aminobutyric acid (GABA) and its structural derivative GABA-alanine, demonstrated a strong capacity to positively regulate skin sensitization mechanisms related to the TRPV1 receptors under PMA-induced inflammatory conditions, therefore providing interesting perspectives for the treatment of sensitive skins, atopia, dermatitis, or psoriasis.

International audience; A new in silico method is introduced for the dereplication of natural metabolite mixtures based on HMBC and HSQC spectra that inform about short-range and long-range H–C correlations occurring in the carbon skeleton of individual chemical entities. Starting from the HMBC spectrum of a metabolite mixture, an algorithm was developed in order to recover individualized HMBC footprints of the mixture constituents. The collected H–C correlations are represented by a network of NMR peaks connected to each other when sharing either a 1H or 13C chemical shift value. The network obtained is then divided into clusters using a community detection algorithm, and finally each cluster is tentatively assigned to a molecular structure by means of a NMR chemical shift database containing the theoretical HMBC and HSQC correlation data of a range of natural metabolites. The proof of principle of this method is demonstrated on a model mixture of 3 known natural compounds and then on a real-life bark extract obtained from the common spruce (Picea abies L.).

Sophorolipids represent an important class of natural surfactants with a variety of environmental, cosmetic, and pharmaceutical applications. Despite their promising physicochemical and biological properties, the use of sophorolipids is hampered by the lack of information regarding their individual structure-activity relationships. The major difficulty in isolating pure sophorolipids arises from the high complexity of crude fermentation media composition and from their strong structural similarities. In this work, a centrifugal partition chromatography method was developed in an original gradient elution mode for the separation of sophorolipids produced by the yeast Candida bombicola. Experiments were realized by using three sets of solvent systems composed of n-heptane, ethyl acetate, n-butanol, methanol, and water in different proportions. The separation was performed at 5 mL/min in the ascending mode by increasing progressively the polarity of the organic mobile phase. In these conditions, more than 80% of the sophorolipids present in the initial crude fermentation extract were eluted successively from the most hydrophobic lactone forms to the most hydrophilic acid forms. The structures of the isolated sophorolipids were further elucidated by HPLC and NMR analyses.

International audience; A computer-aided, 13C NMR-based dereplication method is presented for the chemical profiling of natural extracts without any fractionation. An algorithm was developed in order to compare the 13C NMR chemical shifts obtained from a single routine spectrum with a set of predicted NMR data stored in a natural metabolite database. The algorithm evaluates the quality of the matching between experimental and predicted data by calculating a score function and returns the list of metabolites that are most likely to be present in the studied extract. The proof of principle of the method is demonstrated on a crude alkaloid extract obtained from the leaves of Peumus boldus, resulting in the identification of eight alkaloids, including isocorydine, rogersine, boldine, reticuline, coclaurine, laurotetanine, N-methylcoclaurine, and norisocorydine, as well as three monoterpenes, namely, p-cymene, eucalyptol, and α-terpinene. The results were compared to those obtained with other methods, either involving a fractionation step before the chemical profiling process or using mass spectrometry detection in the infusion mode or coupled to gas chromatography.

International audience; Natural product chemistry began in Reims, France, in a pharmacognosy research laboratory whose main emphasis was the isolation and identification of bioactive molecules, following the guidelines of chemotaxonomy. The structure elucidation of new compounds of steadily increasing complexity favored the emergence of methodological work in nuclear magnetic resonance. As a result, our group was the first to report the use of proton‐detected heteronuclear chemical shift correlation spectra for the computer‐assisted structure elucidation of small organic molecules driven by atom proximity relationships and without relying on databases. The early detection of known compounds appeared as a necessity in order to deal more efficiently with complex plant extracts. This goal was reached by an original combination of mixture fractionation by centrifugal partition chromatography, analysis by 13C NMR, digital data reduction and alignment, hierarchical data clustering, and computer database search.

International audience; Wood residues produced from forestry activities represent an interesting source of biologically active, high value-added secondary metabolites. In this study, 30 extracts from 10 barks of deciduous and coniferous tree species were investigated for their potential dermo-cosmetic use. The extracts were obtained from Fagus sylvatica, Quercus robur, Alnus glutinosa, Prunus avium, Acer pseudoplatanus, Fraxinus excelsior, Populus robusta, Larix decidua, Picea abies, and Populus tremula after three successive solid/liquid extractions of the barks with n-heptane, methanol, and methanol/water. All extracts were evaluated for their radical scavenging capacity, for their elastase, collagenase, and tyrosinase inhibitory activities, as well as for their antibacterial activity against gram-positive Staphylococcus aureus. In parallel, the global metabolite profiles of all extracts were established by 1D and 2D NMR and related to their biological activity. The results showed that the methanol extracts of Q. robur, A. glutinosa, L. decidua, and P. abies barks exhibit particularly high activities on most bioassays, suggesting their promising use as active ingredients in the dermo-cosmetic industry.

International audience; Barks from conifers and broadleaved trees constitute abundant wastes generated from wood harvesting and logging activities. Extracts of such residues obtained from Alnus trees have been reported as interesting resources with potent antibacterial activities. The present study aims to determine the antimicrobial activity of a crude methanol extract prepared from the bark of Alnus glutinosa against a panel of 22 bacteria and yeasts and to optimize a purification method enabling the high production of the most active substances. Fractionation of the crude extract was performed by Centrifugal Partition Chromatography (CPC) using a three-phase solvent system composed of n-heptane, methyl-ter-butyl ether, acetonitrile and water. The major known compounds contained in the fractions produced by CPC were chemically profiled by 13C NMR dereplication, resulting in the unambiguous identification of oregonin, hirsutanonol, betulinic acid, and alusenone 1a. The antibacterial evaluation of the fractions by bioautography on Staphylococcus aureus revealed that oregonin, in addition to being the major metabolite of the crude extract (∼32% w/w), was the most active with an antibacterial inhibitory effect comparable to antibiotics. The purification of oregonin was optimized at the laboratory-scale by CPC. A single injection of 3.7 g of crude extract resulted in a recovery of 72% (850 mg) of the available oregonin at purity higher than 94%.

Ilhem Zebiri was born in 1986 in Oran. She is currently in her second year of the Masters program “Chemistry, NaturalSubstances and Medicine” in Reims. She is deeply interested in organic and analytical chemistry (chromatography, NMRspectroscopy), especially directed to the field of natural substances and their extraction methods.Sebastien Balieu was born in 1979 in Rouen, France. He graduated with an M.Sci. degree in Chemistry from RouenUniversity in 2004 under the supervision of Prof. S. Piettre in the field of carbohydrates. He obtained his Ph.D. degreein 2007 from the University of Rennes 1 under the supervision of Dr. B. Boitrel in the field of porphyrins and alpha-therapy. In 2007, he joined the group of Prof. C. Courillon (Paris VII) as a postdoctoral fellow working on ynamidesand radical cyclizations. In 2009, he joined the group of Prof. S. Bouquillon (Reims) as a postdoctoral fellow workingon dendrimers and encapsulation. He is now in the group of Prof. A. Haudrechy (Reims) as a postdoctoral fellow workingon carbohydrates for the synthesis of biologically active molecules.After several jobs in the agri–food and pharmaceutical industries, Arnaud Guilleret has worked for Soliance since 2007as an R&D project manager. He holds an M.Sc. degree in chemistry of natural substances and an herbalist diploma. Hespecializes in phytochemistry and biotechnology.Romain Reynaud is the head of R&D of Soliance. For more than 10 years, he has directly contributed to the discovery,the development, and the launch of more than 30 cosmetic-active ingredients. He holds an M.Sc. degree in formulationchemistry. He worked at ARD (Agro-industrie Recherche et Developpement) for three years and joined Soliance in 2004.Arnaud Haudrechy was born in 1965 in Rouen, France. He obtained his Ph.D. degree in 1990 from the University ofParis VI under the supervision of Prof. P. Sinay in the field of carbohydrates and transition-metal chemistry (Tebbe’sreagent). In 1990, he joined the group of Professor Y. Kishi (Harvard University) as a postdoctoral fellow working onpreferred conformations of C-glycosides. In 1992, he joined the University Paris Sud as a lecturer in organic chemistry,working with Prof. Y. Langlois on low-temperature asymmetric Diels–Alder reactions and a sequential Claisen–Ireland/metathesis concept. He is now full Professor of Organic Chemistry at the University of Reims Champagne-Ardenne, andhis research program is focused on the use of carbohydrates for the synthesis of biologically active molecules.

The aqueous-ethanolic extract of Tephrosia purpurea seeds is currently exploited in the cosmetic industry as a natural ingredient of skin lotions. The aim of this study was to chemically characterize this ingredient by combining centrifugal partition extraction (CPE) as a fractionation tool with two complementary identification approaches involving dereplication and computer-assisted structure elucidation. Following two rapid fractionations of the crude extract (2 g), seven major compounds namely, caffeic acid, quercetin-3-O-rutinoside, ethyl galactoside, ciceritol, stachyose, saccharose, and citric acid, were unambiguously identified within the CPE-generated simplified mixtures by a recently developed (13)C NMR-based dereplication method. The structures of four additional compounds, patuletin-3-O-rutinoside, kaempferol-3-O-rutinoside, guaiacylglycerol 8-vanillic acid ether, and 2-methyl-2-glucopyranosyloxypropanoic acid, were automatically elucidated by using the Logic for Structure Determination program based on the interpretation of 2D NMR (HSQC, HMBC, and COSY) connectivity data. As more than 80% of the crude extract mass was characterized without need for tedious and labor-intensive multistep purification procedures, the identification tools involved in this work constitute a promising strategy for an efficient and time-saving chemical profiling of natural extracts.

Background: Topical delivery of molecules into the human skin is one of the main issues in dermatology and cosmetology. Several techniques were developed to study molecules penetration into the human skin. Although widely accepted, the conventional methods such as Franz diffusion cells are unable to provide the accurate localization of actives in the skin layers. A different approach based on Raman spectroscopy has been proposed to follow-up the permeation of actives. It presents a high molecular specificity to distinguish exogenous molecules from skin constituents. Methods: Raman micro-imaging was applied to monitor the skin penetration of hyaluronic acids (HA) of different molecular weights. The first step, was the spectral characterization of these HA. After, we have determined spectral features of HA by which they can be detected in the skin. In the second part, transverse skin sections were realized and spectral images were recorded. Results: Our results show a difference of skin permeation of the three HA. Indeed, HA with low molecular weight (20– 300 kDa) passes through the stratum corneum in contrast of the impermeability of high molecular weight HA (1000– 1400 kDa). Conclusion: Raman spectroscopy represents an analytical, non-destructive, and dynamic method to evaluate the permeation of actives in the skin layers.

Because of their highly complex metabolite profile, the chemical characterization of bioactive natural extracts usually requires time-consuming multistep purification procedures to achieve the structural elucidation of pure individual metabolites. The aim of the present work was to develop a dereplication strategy for the identification of natural metabolites directly within mixtures. Exploiting the polarity range of metabolites, the principle was to rapidly fractionate a multigram quantity of a crude extract by centrifugal partition extraction (CPE). The obtained fractions of simplified chemical composition were subsequently analyzed by (13)C NMR. After automatic collection and alignment of (13)C signals across spectra, hierarchical clustering analysis (HCA) was performed for pattern recognition. As a result, strong correlations between (13)C signals of a single structure within the mixtures of the fraction series were visualized as chemical shift clusters. Each cluster was finally assigned to a molecular structure with the help of a locally built (13)C NMR chemical shift database. The proof of principle of this strategy was achieved on a simple model mixture of commercially available plant secondary metabolites and then applied to a bark extract of the African tree Anogeissus leiocarpus Guill. & Perr. (Combretaceae). Starting from 5 g of this genuine extract, the fraction series was generated by CPE in only 95 min. (13)C NMR analyses of all fractions followed by pattern recognition of (13)C chemical shifts resulted in the unambiguous identification of seven major compounds, namely, sericoside, trachelosperogenin E, ellagic acid, an epimer mixture of (+)-gallocatechin and (-)-epigallocatechin, 3,3'-di-O-methylellagic acid 4'-O-xylopyranoside, and 3,4,3'-tri-O-methylflavellagic acid 4'-O-glucopyranoside.

Centrifugal partition extraction (CPE) was developed for the first time in the pH-zone-refining mode to fractionate a crude bark extract of the African tree Anogeissus leiocarpus Guill. & Perr. (Combretaceae). The fractionation process was performed at a flow rate of 20 mL/min using a biphasic solvent system composed of methyl tert -butyl ether/acetonitrile/water (4:1:5, v/v/v) in the ascending mode. Sodium hydroxide (40 mM) and trifluoroacetic acid (30 mM) were used as retainer and displacer agents, respectively. In a single run of 67 min, 3 g of the initial crude extract were successfully separated into fractions selectively enriched in ionizable triterpenes, ellagic acid derivatives and flavonoids. The antioxidant potential of the initial crude extract, isolated compounds and fraction pools was also evaluated by using the 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH ) stable free radical scavenging assay, providing an interesting view about the effect of the degree of substitution of ellagic acid derivatives on their radical scavenging activity. This study will demonstrate that centrifugal partition extraction used in the pH-zone-refining mode can be proposed as an efficient strategy for the rapid screening of natural phenolic compounds.

Sophorolipids represent an important class of natural surfactants with a variety of environmental, cosmetic, and pharmaceutical applications. Despite their promising physicochemical and biological properties, the use of sophorolipids is hampered by the lack of information regarding their individual structure-activity relationships. The major difficulty in isolating pure sophorolipids arises from the high complexity of crude fermentation media composition and from their strong structural similarities. In this work, a centrifugal partition chromatography method was developed in an original gradient elution mode for the separation of sophorolipids produced by the yeast Candida bombicola. Experiments were realized by using three sets of solvent systems composed of n-heptane, ethyl acetate, n-butanol, methanol, and water in different proportions. The separation was performed at 5 mL/min in the ascending mode by increasing progressively the polarity of the organic mobile phase. In these conditions, more than 80% of the sophorolipids present in the initial crude fermentation extract were eluted successively from the most hydrophobic lactone forms to the most hydrophilic acid forms. The structures of the isolated sophorolipids were further elucidated by HPLC and NMR analyses.

Tree bark represents an interesting source of bioactive molecules for the discovery of new pharmaceutical agents. However, the detailed screening of secondary metabolites in crude bark extracts is often hampered by the presence of tannins, which are difficult to separate from other plant constituents.In the present study, a new centrifugal partition extraction (CPE) method was developed in order to fractionate a crude bark extract of Anogeissus leiocarpus Guill.Perr. (Combretaceae).A three-phase solvent system composed of n-heptane, methyl tert-butyl ether, acetonitrile and water was optimised for the stepwise elution at 20 mL/min of different phytochemical classes according to their hydrophobicity. Onedimensional and two-dimensional NMR analyses of the simplified fractions were then performed in order to characterise potentially interesting metabolites.In one step, 5 g of the initial crude extract were efficiently fractionated to yield highly simplified fractions that contained triterpenes, ellagic acid derivatives, flavonoids and phenolic compounds. All undesired compounds, that is, the highly abundant water-soluble tannins (78.8%), were totally removed and each run was rapidly achieved in 90 min on a the multi-gram scale and with low solvent volumes.Centrifugal partition extraction in the elution mode using a three-phase solvent system can thus be proposed as an efficient and cost-effective alternative for a rapid fractionation of crude bark extracts and for an effective screening of potentially active secondary metabolites.

The aim of this article was to evaluate the influence of the column design of a hydrostatic support-free liquid-liquid chromatography device on the process efficiency when the strong ion-exchange (SIX) development mode is used. The purification of p-hydroxybenzylglucosinolate (sinalbin) from a crude aqueous extract of white mustard seeds (Sinapis alba L.) was achieved on two types of devices: a centrifugal partition chromatograph (CPC) and a centrifugal partition extractor (CPE). They differ in the number, volume and geometry of their partition cells. The SIX-CPE process was evaluated in terms of productivity and sinalbin purification capability as compared to previously optimized SIX-CPC protocols that were carried out on columns of 200 mL and 5700 mL inner volume, respectively. The objective was to determine whether the decrease in partition cell number, the increase in their volume and the use of a "twin cell" design would induce a significant increase in productivity by applying higher mobile phase flow rate while maintaining a constant separation quality. 4.6g of sinalbin (92% recovery) were isolated from 25 g of a crude white mustard seed extract, in only 32 min and with a purity of 94.7%, thus corresponding to a productivity of 28 g per hour and per liter of column volume (g/h/LV(c)). Therefore, the SIX-CPE process demonstrates promising industrial technology transfer perspectives for the large-scale isolation of ionized natural products.

Microbial glycolipids produced from renewable sources are of considerable interest in light of their promising biological activities and surfactant characteristics when compared to petroleum derived surfactants. Intense research efforts are currently being made to reduce their production costs and optimize recovery as selected mixtures through downstream processes. Due to the high complexity of natural glycolipid mixtures, efficient purification techniques are also required to examine the biological mechanisms of individual species towards human systems for their application in health-related areas. This review deals with recent advances in the development of glycolipid extraction, fractionation and purification methods, with a particular focus on solid support-free liquid-liquid separation techniques including centrifugal partition chromatography (CPC) and counter-current chromatography (CCC). These techniques offer promising perspectives for the preparative or large-scale separation of glycolipids from complex crude extracts, mainly because of their flexibility in solvent system selection and applicability to a diversity of structures of any polarity.

Ilhem Zebiri was born in 1986 in Oran. She is currently in her second year of the Masters program “Chemistry, NaturalSubstances and Medicine” in Reims. She is deeply interested in organic and analytical chemistry (chromatography, NMRspectroscopy), especially directed to the field of natural substances and their extraction methods.Sebastien Balieu was born in 1979 in Rouen, France. He graduated with an M.Sci. degree in Chemistry from RouenUniversity in 2004 under the supervision of Prof. S. Piettre in the field of carbohydrates. He obtained his Ph.D. degreein 2007 from the University of Rennes 1 under the supervision of Dr. B. Boitrel in the field of porphyrins and alpha-therapy. In 2007, he joined the group of Prof. C. Courillon (Paris VII) as a postdoctoral fellow working on ynamidesand radical cyclizations. In 2009, he joined the group of Prof. S. Bouquillon (Reims) as a postdoctoral fellow workingon dendrimers and encapsulation. He is now in the group of Prof. A. Haudrechy (Reims) as a postdoctoral fellow workingon carbohydrates for the synthesis of biologically active molecules.After several jobs in the agri–food and pharmaceutical industries, Arnaud Guilleret has worked for Soliance since 2007as an R&D project manager. He holds an M.Sc. degree in chemistry of natural substances and an herbalist diploma. Hespecializes in phytochemistry and biotechnology.Romain Reynaud is the head of R&D of Soliance. For more than 10 years, he has directly contributed to the discovery,the development, and the launch of more than 30 cosmetic-active ingredients. He holds an M.Sc. degree in formulationchemistry. He worked at ARD (Agro-industrie Recherche et Developpement) for three years and joined Soliance in 2004.Arnaud Haudrechy was born in 1965 in Rouen, France. He obtained his Ph.D. degree in 1990 from the University ofParis VI under the supervision of Prof. P. Sinay in the field of carbohydrates and transition-metal chemistry (Tebbe’sreagent). In 1990, he joined the group of Professor Y. Kishi (Harvard University) as a postdoctoral fellow working onpreferred conformations of C-glycosides. In 1992, he joined the University Paris Sud as a lecturer in organic chemistry,working with Prof. Y. Langlois on low-temperature asymmetric Diels–Alder reactions and a sequential Claisen–Ireland/metathesis concept. He is now full Professor of Organic Chemistry at the University of Reims Champagne-Ardenne, andhis research program is focused on the use of carbohydrates for the synthesis of biologically active molecules.