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Objective evidence for the effectiveness of sole carboxytherapy and carboxytherapy combined with acids in the reduction of dark circles, in particular vascular circles in the tear trough. Lactobionic acid, ferulic acid, and ascorbic acid can be used as safe supplements to enhance carboxytherapy. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Background: Gluconolactone (GLA) exhibits antioxidant and moisturizing effects. It also presents soothing effects, protects elastin fibers from UV‐induced degradation, and improves the function of the skin barrier. Aims: Evaluation of skin parameters such as pH, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), sebum levels before, during, and after a series of applications of 10% and 30% GLA chemical peel in a split‐face model. Materials and Methods: The study involved 16 female subjects. Three split‐face procedures were performed using two concentrations of GLA solution applied on two sides of the face. The skin parameters were measured before treatments and 7 days after the last procedure at four measurement sites on either side of the face, that is, on the forehead, around the eye, on the cheek, and on the nose wing. Results: Measurement of sebum demonstrated some statistically significant changes between sebum levels in the cheeks after a series of treatments. The pH measurement showed that the pH value was reduced after each treatment at all measurement points. The level of TEWL after treatments was significantly lower around the eyes, on the left forehead, and on the right cheek. There were no significant differences between the use of different concentrations of the GLA solution. Conclusions: The results of the study show that GLA has a significant influence on lowering skin pH and TEWL. GLA also has seboregulatory properties. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Eyes area is of high importance in esthetic dermatology. This area is one of the most difficult for procedures. Skillful treatment can significantly improve the quality of patients' life. The aim of the study was to present and differentiate a variety of changes observed in the eye area and factors stimulating their appearance and enhancing intensity. This article also presents treatment methods in the field of esthetic dermatology, which are used in the in the following problems: eyelid edema, fatty bags under the eyes, vascular circles under the eyes, pigment shadows, periorbital melanosis, structural shadows, tear trough, wrinkles and loss of skin elasticity and dry skin around the eyes. Their correct diagnosis requires the knowledge of the characteristics of the skin structure within the eye area and also the mechanisms responsible for disorders in its functioning. Many patients and people performing procedures, limit the problems within eye area to a generalized division into shadows, swelling and wrinkles under the eyes and probably to one selected form of therapy. However, as it has been shown in this review, the variety of defects is large. Actions in case of problems with skin around the eyes require a systemic, multi-specialist. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Shikimic acid (SA) has been mainly used in the pharmaceutical industry for production of drugs, however, recently it has also appeared in the world of cosmetics. So far, there have not been many publications on cosmetics containing SA or research studies on the compound, especially those that would involve testing cosmetic products on subjects. The main source of SA is star anise. The recommended concentration of SA in cosmetic preparations ranges between 1 and 5%. The pH of a 5% solution of SA in water is 3. SA at a concentration of 5% has a similar exfoliative effect to that of 50% glycolic acid. It shows antiviral, exfoliating, deodorizing, anti‐acne, anti‐dandruff, whitening and moisturizing activity. It also regulates the amount of secreted sebum, moreover, it has antibacterial, anti‐inflammatory, hair‐growth stimulating, anti‐aging effect and antifungal properties. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The assessment of the signs of photoaging in mexametric (melanin and erythema index), corneometric (hydration level), and cutometric (elasticity) examination after the treatment with ascorbic acid and ferulic acid. This study was conducted in a group of 20 women aged 39–61 (mean age 54), with Fitzpatrick skin types II and III. The study included a series of eight treatments performed once a week. Two layers of peeling, based on 14% ferulic acid (left half of the face) and 12% l‐ascorbic acid serum (right half of the face) were applied. To determine skin parameters: moisture, elasticity, melanin level, and erythema intensity, the Multi Probe Adapter Systems (Courage + Khazaka electronic GmbH, Köln, Germany) were used. Additionally, before and after the series of treatments, photographs were taken with the standardized photographic system Fotomedicus (Elfo®). The results of mexametric measurement for melanin level and erythema intensity were statistically significant (p < 0.0001) for both acids. Slightly greater lightening of the skin was demonstrated for ascorbic acid. The results of corneometric measurement of hydration level for ferulic acid and ascorbic acid were both statistically significant (p < 0.0001). First beneficial changes in improved elasticity could be observed as early as after 8 weeks but the increase in flexibility grew with time (after 12 weeks). These changes affected both acids and all measurement points. The changes in parameters were highly statistically significant (p < 0.0001). Based on the conducted research, it is not possible to state which of the tested acids is more effective in reducing the symptoms of photoaging. Both acids (ascorbic and ferulic), which have a high antioxidant potential, affect the measurable parameters of the skin: pigmentation (melanin index), erythema (erythema index), skin hydration, and elasticity. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Photoepilation has become a very popular epilation procedure in esthetic and cosmetic practice. There are some types of lasers and other light sources used for epilation. The purpose of our study was to compare an IPL device with an IPL plus RF in one device, using a within-patient, right-left controlled study design. Thirty-three patients completed four treatment sessions and the follow-up period of the study. Hair reduction was effective after the first treatment, but similar results were achieved using the IPL system alone, and with IPL combined with RF. The degree of hair reduction increased after the following treatments, but the two methods yielded similar effects. Three months after the last treatment, some hair had regrown in both treatments, the combined IPL with RF treatment gave significantly better results than the IPL treatment alone. In conclusion, IPL and IPL-RF are effective hair reduction therapies, yielding similar effects in patients with skin phototypes II or III. However, IPL-RF can be more effective in long-term observations. These therapies are also safe and regarded be quite comfortable in this population. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Background: Oxybrasion is one of the types of microdermabrasion. This method removes a superficial epidermal layer with the use of a stream of 0.9% saline solution and compressed air. Aims: The assessment of skin hydration, sebum, pH, TEWL (transepidermal water loss), and pigmentation using oxybrasion. Material and methods: The study involved 27 female subjects. Five treatments were performed every 2 weeks using the oxygen microdermabrasion. Measurements of the skin parameters were taken before each treatment and 2 weeks after the last procedure. The measurement points were on the forehead, the cheek, and on the petal of the nose. Results: Sebum measurement showed some statistically significant differences between the sebum level on the cheek and the nose after a series of treatments. A higher hydration level was found at all measurement points. There were no statistically significant differences in TEWL parameter. pH measurement showed that the pH value decreased after each of the procedures. Most of the pigmentation measurements differed in a statistically significant way. Conclusion: Results of the study indicate that the oxybrasion treatments increase the skin hydration and they have a significant influence on the decrease of the skin hydrolipid coat and pH. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Background: Photoaging (extrinsic aging) is caused by environmental exposure to ultraviolet radiation. Superficial and medium‐depth chemical peels with trichloroacetic acid (TCA) are performed to reduce wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, dryness, and erythema caused by photoaging process. Aim: The aim of this study was to compare the efficacy and tolerability of 15% TCA peel against the combined 70% glycolic acid and 35% TCA for the treatment of photodamaged facial skin. Patients/Methods: Forty female patients with types II and III of Glogau photoaging scale were divided into two groups of twenty subjects (GA/TCA and 35% TCA). The GA/TCA group was treated with combination peeling of 70% GA and 15% TCA, whereas the 35% TCA group was treated with monopeeling of 35% trichloroacetic acid. Each patient was submitted to five sessions of these peels, with an interval of 14 days between each session. The following skin aging parameters were examined before treatments, before each session, and 3 months after the last application: hydration, elasticity, melanin index, and erythema index (MPA‐5; Courage‐Khazaka, Germany); and depth and volume of wrinkles (PRIMOS; GFMesstechnik GmbH, Germany). Results: Both peel methods achieved significant improvement in all skin parameters: elasticity, hydration, melanin index, and erythema index. Significant differences between the GA/TCA and 35% TCA groups were found only for hydration and melanin index. GA/TCA was characterized by significantly higher values of the hydration parameter and lower values of melanin index compared with 35% TCA. Combination peel GA/TCA did not cause dryness, edema, or intensive lysis of the epidermis, and the frequency of peel‐induced erythema did not increase with the addition of glycolic acid, but with higher concentration of the TCA solution. However, subject‐perceived improvements of the 35% TCA peel did not differ significantly from subject‐perceived improvements of combination peel treatment. Adverse events requiring intervention or discontinuing treatment were not observed in either group. Conclusion: The addition of glycolic acid before 15% TCA chemical peel application significantly enhanced TCA‐induced improvement in photoaging parameters (increase in skin elasticity and hydration; reduction in melanin index and erythema index), and subject‐perceived improvements. However, 35% TCA peel is more effective in reducing wrinkles, despite a lower tolerability. Both medium‐depth chemical peels including 15% TCA in combination with 70% GA and 35% TCA alone proved to be useful for the removal of epidermal or superficial lesions and to improve the texture of photodamaged facial skin (grade II‐III Glogau photoaged skin). [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objective: The aim of this study was to assess objectively the effects of the combination of corundum microdermabrasion and cavitation peeling in the therapy of seborrheic skin with visible symptoms of acne punctata. Material and methods: The study involved a group of nine women. A series of six treatments with the combination of microdermabrasion and cavitation peeling were performed within facial skin at 10–14 days intervals. Corneometric measurements examining skin hydration level and sebumetric measurements analyzing skin sebum level were made before the series of treatments and after second, fourth and sixth procedure in five facial areas. Clinical assessment of the efficacy of the therapy was performed on the basis of photographic documentation (Fotomedicus). Anonymous questionnaires were used in order to evaluate patients' satisfaction rate. Results: Statistically significant improvement in skin sebum level was observed in all examined areas (forehead p = 0.002; nose p = 0.001, chin p = 0.01, left cheek p = 0.009, right cheek p = 0.007). In case of skin hydration, significant improvement was found only in the area of chin (p = 0.03). 78% of participants estimated that the improvement was in the range of 55–70%, while 22% of participants of 75–100%. The reduction in the amount and visibility of comedones and pimples were demonstrated on the basis of questionnaire and photographic documentation. Conclusions: Combined microdermabrasion and cavitation peeling treatments improve the condition of seborrheic skin. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Summary: Background: Laxity and rhytides are manifestations of photodamage on the face and chest. Nonablative radiofrequency (RF) is one of the most common procedures used for skin rejuvenation. Aim: The aim of this study was to assess the elasticity of face and chest skin after multipolar radiofrequency. Patients/Methods: Thirty women, aged 43‐68, were included in the study. Twenty women were postmenopausal and 10 were premenopausal. They received 4 treatment sessions with an application of nonablative radiofrequency in 2‐week intervals. Biomechanical properties of the skin were measured with the use of a Cutometer. Results: The objective evaluation in a cutometric analysis showed a statistically significant improvement between measurements taken in the pretreatment period and 3 months after the treatment. Conclusions: The study is an objective confirmation that RF treatment improves skin elasticity. The method may appear to be beneficial for women of any age and skin types. It is a noninvasive treatment with a low risk of complications. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Background: The purpose of this study was to evaluate the effect of nail polish, gel polish hybrid, gel nail, and acrylic nail powder and the removal of these formulas on the nail plates properties, particularly the influence of different coatings on morphology and pH. Methods: The morphology and structure of nail plates were analyzed with use of scanning electron microscopy. The pH values of the nail plates of hands were measured using the system Courage & Khazaka. Results: The analysis of morphology and structure of the surface of nail plates showed distinct changes caused by decorative coatings. The most common ones include fragility and splitting of the nails. The pH value measured in the whole group ranged from 5.21 to 7.00. Conclusions: The methods used to prepare nails for decoration and all methods of removing the applied preparations damage the healthy nail plates. The most common changes are brittleness and nail splitting. The nail polish remover causes less damage than acetone, and the use of a nail drill machine and nail file causes the greatest destruction of nail plates. The biggest effect on the pH change has the gel polish hybrid, gel nail, and acrylic nail powder, causing the pH value of nail plates to rise above 6.0, whereas after the application of the nail polish, the pH of the plates was on average 5.8 which is closest to the normal value, assumed as physiological. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Background: Recently more attention has been drawn to alpha hydroxy and polyhydroxy acids (AHA and PHA) due to their excellent moisturizing and antioxidant properties. These compounds are very beneficial in terms of both cosmetic and dermatological treatments. Objective: The aim of this study was an assessment of moisturizing properties of lactobionic and lactic acids based on available literature. Methods: Literature review using scientific databases: PubMed, Medline (EBSCO), Medline Complete, Karger, Springer/ICM, SpringerLink/online, Wiley Online Library. Results and Conclusions: Through their construction, alpha AHA and PHA are able to bind large amounts of water and act as potent antioxidant agents through inhibition of matrix metalloproteinases and strong chelating properties. Another important characteristic is the maintenance of the epidermal barrier integrity during application of lactic acid (LAC) and lactobionic acid (LA) and thus the opportunity to use them on sensitive skin types including couperose skin. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Summary: Background: Ascorbic acid is a substance with confirmed anti‐free‐radical properties. It triggers the collagen synthesis, has a depigmenting effect and seals blood vessels. All these properties have a significant effect of the skin's appearance. The characteristic traits of capillary skin include telangiectasias as well as erythema, which might consolidate in the future, along with the feeling of burning and increased skin sensitivity. Objectives: Study and evaluation of selected parameters of capillary skin after the application of 5% vitamin C concentrate throughout the period of 6 weeks with the use of instrumental tests and questionnaires. Methods: The research was conducted on a group of 30 women ranging from 30 to 60 years of age with capillary skin indicating visible signs of erythematous plaques. The concentrate was applied once a day. Analyses of skin conditions were conducted four times: before the launch of the research D(0), after two 2D(14), after four 4D(28), and after 6 D(42) weeks of application. The research was conducted with the use of Mexameter MPA equipment, which was used to measure changes in the intensity of erythematous plaques. The depth of wrinkles was measured by PRIMOS system (two times D0 and 6D(42). The research also used VISIA system which allowed to perform visual and numeral skin analyses. Each research was finalized with a questionnaire which provided a subjective evaluation of the examined product among participants. Results: Significant reduction in erythema has been widely recorded. After 2 weeks, erythema dropped by 9%. After 4 weeks, it decreased by 16% and by 21% after 6 weeks. The concentrate's efficiency in diminishing erythematous plaques was confirmed by photographs generated by VISIA photograph system. Thanks to PRIMOS, decrease in both depth and volume of nasolabial folds was recorded in 87% of participants after 6 weeks of research. Conclusion: 5% vitamin C concentrate is effective in treating capillary and photograph‐aging skin. It decreases erythema and telangiectasias as well as triggers the shallowing of skin wrinkles. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]