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This study aims to estimate the impact of sewing thread patterns on changes in the resistance of conductive yarns coated with silver paste. Firstly, the structure of the conductive yarns was examined, and various variations in the length and angle of individual sewing stitches were observed and analyzed through experiments. The results revealed that as the length of an individual stitch decreased, the width of the conductive yarn increased. Additionally, variations in the stitch angle resulted in different resistance values in the conductive yarn. These findings provide essential information for optimizing sewing patterns and designing components. Secondly, the comparison between models using multiple linear regression analysis and sewing neural networks was included to show optimized resistance prediction. The multiple linear regression analysis indicated that the stitch length and angle were significant variables affecting the resistance of the conductive thread. The artificial neural network model results can be valuable for optimizing sewing patterns and controlling resistance in various applications that utilize conductive thread. In addition, understanding the resistance variation in conductive thread according to sewing patterns and using optimized models to enhance component performance provides opportunities for innovation and progress. This research is necessary for the textile industry and materials engineering fields and holds high potential for practical applications in industrial settings. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Sewing defect detection is an essential step in garment production quality control. Although sewing defects significantly influence the quality of clothing, they are yet to be studied widely compared to fabric defects. In this study, to address sewing defect detection and develop an appropriate method for small and labor-intensive garment companies, an on-machine broken stitch detection system is proposed. In hardware, a versatile mounting kit, including clamping, display, and adjustable linkage for a camera, is presented for easy installation on a typical industrial sewing machine and for placing the camera close to the sewing position. Additionally, a prototype is implemented using a low-cost single-board computer, Raspberry Pi 4 B, its camera, and Python language. For automated broken stitch detection, a method is proposed that includes removing the texture of the background fabric, image processing in the HSV color space, and edge detection for robust broken detection under various fabric and thread colors and lighting conditions. The proposed system demonstrates reasonable real-time detection accuracy. The maximum accuracy obtained on a sewing stitch dataset with 880 images and on-site tests of various industrial sewing machines is 82.5%, which is 12.1–34.6% higher than that of the two existing methods. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Bending rigidity magnitude of sewing thread provides a sustainable solution on the appearance of single needle lock stitched lightweight woven fabrics which are prone to pucker. Comparison of sewing thread bending rigidity with thread count, thread diameter, thread cyclic recovery and their resultant implication in the single lock stitched assemblies were given less consideration for the prediction and reduction of seam pucker severity. The resultant implication of physical and mechanical properties of sewing thread with rising trend of static thread tension magnitude at lock stitched sewing machine has significant impact on lightweight lock stitched fabric assemblies to predict and elude seam pucker. The present research is focused to investigate impact of the thread bending rigidity on count, diameter and cyclic recovery at 4th cycle of four cores spun sewing threads. The study concluded that sewing thread bending rigidity has high coefficient of determination of sewing thread; diameter (R² =0.81), count (R² =0.73) and cyclic recovery (R² =0.77). Single needle 400 lock stitched samples of two cores spun sewing threads (t2 and t4) were prepared with ten plain weave lightweight woven fabric samples prone to pucker at four different static needle thread tensions. It is also established that combined effect of sewing thread static tension and cyclic recovery at sewing machine has significant coefficient of determination (R²>0.85 at low static thread tension and R²>0.73 at very high static thread tension) to predict and elude seam pucker severity. Research finding provides a sustainable solution to select the fine count sewing thread attuned with lightweight woven fabrics prone to pucker severity. It was observed that the Fine count sewing thread has lowest bending rigidity and 4th cyclic recovery magnitudes (R² close to 1) to reduce or predict pucker severity for prone to pucker plain weave lightweight woven fabrics at minimum static thread tension (25gf) on single needle lock stitched sewing machine (R²>0.81). [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Fabrics with weaves of low interlacing density and smooth yarns such as continuous cuprammonium filaments are often susceptible to sewing damage of cracks perpendicular to the sewing line, seriously influencing the aesthetics of the finished garment. To understand how the important factors such as yarn modulus, yarn bending stiffness, sewing needle radius, yarn-on yarn-friction, fabric counts and fabric weaves act on the crack length of such a fabric, a micromechanical model is proposed, and the experimental results are compared with the theoretical prediction. Single yarn pull-out tests and single yarn axial compression tests are performed to estimate yarn-on-yarn friction and yarn bending stiffness, respectively. The model indicates that the sewing crack length is positively proportional to the yarn tensile modulus, yarn bending stiffness and the needle radius and is negatively proportional to the fabric count and the inter-yarn friction. The model predicted crack lengths are within the range of the experimental results in warp direction while the predicted value is substantially larger than the observed crack lengths in weft direction due to the high compressibility of the weft yarn, which decreased yarn tension, bending stiffness and increased yarn cover power. For a given fabric, increasing yarn-on-yarn friction and raising yarn compressibility is an effective way to control the crack lengths. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Microfinance has generally been linked to women's economic empowerment. Research findings on empowerment thesis are mixed and vary in their conclusions. This study looks at the relationship between various forms of rural financing and gendered social exchanges, with a particular focus on women. Despite the associated risks, women often experience emotional benefits from their involvement in rural financing. Women in Pakistan are closely involved in major life events like childbirth, marriage, and death. To meet the needs in these situations, they obtain funds through microfinance and rotating savings and credit associations. This article endeavors to examine the influence of rural financing on women's empowerment through the lens of feminist frameworks. Descriptive ethnography was employed as a research design and data was gathered through conducting interviews with the 50 borrowers in Nara Mughlan village of District Chakwal. Findings showed that only a few women were able to employ the money by managing small-scale businesses like sewing and stitching, grocery stores, poultry and livestock management. However, they make various psychological and emotional gains by giving up their turn to other women in case of rotating savings and credit associations and proxy lending in microfinance. This perceived risk is not seen as a loss, as it brings happiness and fulfilment through social exchange. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A few distinct feed mechanisms can be found in sewing machines. The mechanism that feeds the material into the machine differs in each machine. In lock stitch sewing machines, the mechanism known as the drop feed is the one that is utilized the majority of the time. Its construction includes one presser foot, one throat plate, and one feed dog. Different types of feed dogs can be used in the drop feed mechanism to achieve the desired level of customization. In this study, modification-1, modification-2, and modification-3 were created in an industrial lock stitch machine using feed dogs with 18, 21, and 30 teeth, respectively. These numbers correspond to the number of teeth on the feed dogs. The quality of the seams, such as the seams on garments, was analyzed after each modification of the feed mechanism performed on seams made of the same fabric (Denim fabric). We took measurements of the seam's strength and efficiency as well as its puckering and slippage. It was discovered that the seam quality of garments constructed using modification-1 (one) is superior to that of garments constructed using the other two modifications using the same fabric. Therefore, to finish a specific garment accurately, it is necessary to select the appropriate sewing machine and ensure that it has the ideal feed mechanism. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Defective stitch inspection is an essential part of garment manufacturing quality assurance. Traditional mechanical defect detection systems are effective, but they are usually customized with handcrafted features that must be operated by a human. Deep learning approaches have recently demonstrated exceptional performance in a wide range of computer vision applications. The requirement for precise detail evaluation, combined with the small size of the patterns, undoubtedly increases the difficulty of identification. Therefore, image segmentation (semantic segmentation) was employed for this task. It is identified as a vital research topic in the field of computer vision, being indispensable in a wide range of real-world applications. Semantic segmentation is a method of labeling each pixel in an image. This is in direct contrast to classification, which assigns a single label to the entire image. And multiple objects of the same class are defined as a single entity. DeepLabV3+ architecture, with encoder-decoder architecture, is the applied technique. EfficientNet models (B0-B2) were applied as encoders for experimental processes. The encoder is utilized to encode feature maps from the input image. The encoder's significant information is used by the decoder for upsampling and reconstruction of output. Finally, the best model is DeepLabV3+ with EfficientNetB1 which can classify segmented defective sewing stitches with performance (MeanIoU: 94.14%). [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This research work aims at modeling the sewing thread consumption for stitch class 301 through image analysis by using Fourier series. A mathematical model was developed by using the geometry of stitch class 301 for calculating sewing thread consumption. The modeling of stitch class 301 was conducted by changing the stitch density and thickness of the stitched fabric. The stitch density was adjusted by varying the stitch length (2, 3 and 4 mm) and the thickness of stitched fabric (2, 3 and 4 plies of fabric).The interlacement of sewing thread between the needle and bobbin was used for the measurement of arc length of one stitch. The total consumption of sewing thread was determined by multiplying the arc length by 4. The developed model was verified by using nine different stitched samples for comparing the predicted and measured values of sewing thread consumption. This model predicted the sewing thread consumption with 95% accuracy. Error percentages were also calculated for determining the major influencing factors that affected the sewing thread consumption. The proposed model can effectively be employed in garment industries for determining sewing thread consumption. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This article examines the discovery and analysis of 600-year-old gut-skin parkas found in Avanersuaq, Greenland. The study compares the fabrication techniques of these parkas with those from the mid-20th century among the Inuit. It explores cutting, sewing, and material consumption techniques, as well as the processing of raw materials. The article provides insights into the cultural significance and use of gut-skin parkas among the Inuit, particularly for protection against rain and wind during hunting. It also discusses the differences in parka designs between men and women and suggests that the gut-skin parka may have had cosmological significance. [Extracted from the article]