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The project E-TexWeld (Welding of e-textile for interactive clothing) is supported by the EU Framework Programme for Research and Innovation Commission, Marie Skłodowska-Curie actions - Research and Innovation Staff Exchange (RISE) join together the partners from the academic and private sector: Slovenia, Turkey, France, Greece, United Kingdom, Hong Kong and Taiwan. The interdisciplinary project work is the combination of welding, textiles, electronics and informatics technologies that aims to develop novel e-textile structures including transmission lines, sensors, actuators, microprocessors, personalized algorithms, on-body computing and user feedbacks in order to make a towards development of interactive clothing and footwear. The project is divided in: (i) designing of transmission lines of e-textile structures; (ii) integration of electronic elements (different sensors, actuators, microprocessors, data transmission and power supply systems) to textile structures and (iii) design and development of whole e-textile system for protective clothing applications including interactive protective garments and shoes. The paper presents the dissemination the results of intensive research work among the partners after one year and half of running the project. The project activities are running and aligning with the approved research project schedule. The strengths and weaknesses will be also discussed.

Purpose The purpose of this paper is to compare real fabric drape images and virtual fabric drape images created by a commercial software. To achieve an in-depth comparison, actual and virtual drape shape properties were considered under three categories: drape area, number of nodes and shape of folds. The results of this research are expected to be useful to improve the reality and accuracy of fabric and garment. Design/methodology/approach Five different fabrics were selected for this study. Fabrics’ mechanical properties were tested by fabric assurance for simple testing method, while drape properties were measured by a Cusick drape meter. A commercial garment simulation was used to generate virtual fabric drapes. Real fabric drape images and virtual fabric drape images were analyzed by an image analysis software and results were used to calculate drape properties. Regression analysis was performed to compare real fabric drape and virtual fabric drape properties. Findings Differences between real fabric drape and virtual fabric drape were stated clearly. Simulation software was found to be insufficient to reflect drape area. However, simulations were quite successful corresponding to the number of nodes. Only one simulation had +2 nodes than its actual counterpart. This study showed that area and node shape representations of simulation software should be improved while node numbers are sufficiently represented. Research limitations/implications There are alternative 3D garment simulation software available to the fashion business. All these companies are working on to improve their simulation reality and accuracy. Some of them are also offering various equipment to measure the fabric properties. In this study, Optitex 3D Suite was selected as the simulation software due to several reasons as explained in this paper. However, other simulation programs might also be employed to perform virtual fabric drapes. Furthermore, in this study, the drape images of five woven fabrics were compared. The fabric selection was done according to a pre-test and consequently similar fabrics were determined to be the subject of the study. However, the more the number of the fabrics, the better the comparison and eventually the better the assessment of simulation success. Therefore, it is prospected to test more fabrics with versatile fabric properties for further studies. Originality/value Drape shape was observed from three perspectives: drape area, node numbers, and node shapes. Dealing the problem from these perspectives provided an in-depth comparison of real and virtual drapes. In this study, standard deviation of peak angles was used to explain node distribution that is new to the literature to the authors’ knowledge.

In this research, the use of new technologies for the development of special protective overall for sport aircraft pilots was studied, with a focus on a comparative analysis of the static and dynamic body postures’ dimensions, intended for the development of the overall’s pattern design. For this purpose, digitalization of five male persons was carried out with the 3D human body scanner Vitus Smart by using 3D printed markers, precisely positioned on defined body locations, intended for exact measurement of body dimensions. Male persons, aged between 19 and 35 years with the same athletic body type and different body heights and body mass indexes (BMIs), were scanned in a standard static standing body posture and three dynamic body postures. A comparative analysis between the static and dynamic body postures was carried out. Based on the established body dimensions and girth dimensions of the 3D body model with 3D-modeled compression elements, made-to-measure construction of the overall pattern design was carried out. The function of these compression elements is redistribution of the blood from the lower extremities to the upper body parts at the appearance of high g-forces. Therefore, increased girth dimensions due to the use of compression elements were applied in the overall development process as construction measures with needed ease allowances. The functionality of the developed special protective overall was explored on the scanned 3D body model with 3D-modeled compression elements in a real sitting posture of the sport aircraft pilot in a cab by using virtual prototyping. The virtual simulation technology showed that a well-fitted protective overall for sport aircraft pilots can be developed by using a 3D scanned body model of a person in a sitting posture and its 3D body dimensions.

This study examined the effects of ultrasonic welding parameters on bond strength, seam thickness and seam stiffness, as well as water permeability. For study purpose, two types of four-layered fabrics with same compositions and different areal densities suitable for inner part of sport shoes were used. Two different types of seams, lapped and superimposed, were applied for ultrasonic welding and also compared by traditional seam applied by shoe manufacturer. The morphology of different type of seams was also analyzed to observe the influence of welding parameters on the layers during the ultrasonic welding process. Bonding strength was found to depend on the seam type and composition of the joined fabric layers. It was confirmed by the shoe manufacturer that all the produced welded seams provided the requested minimum bond strength to be suitable for the use of the shoes. The traditional seams applied by the shoe manufacturer were thicker but had lower stiffness in comparison to all welded seams. It was also found out that ultrasonic welding damaged the membrane, which was confirmed by no water resistance of welded seams. Statistical analysis showed that ultrasonic welding parameters, such as welding frequency and velocity, influence the bond strength, thickness, and bending stiffness of welded seams, but the obtained results were statistically insignificant.

The aim of this work was to investigate the color change of cotton fabrics with stainless steel yarns incorporated. In order to establish the impact of conductive yarns’ composition properties in the fabric, concentrations and two different dyeing profiles based on direct and reactive dyes chemistry were applied. The success of this novel e-textile design was evaluated colorimetrically with two different dye concentrations as well through various linear electrical resistances to obtain solid statistical conclusions. The dyed samples were colorimetrically evaluated and the electrical resistances of conductive yarns inside the fabric structure were compared and discussed statistically before and after dyeing. The results provided evidence that dyeing has great influence on electrical resistances of conductive yarns used as transmission lines for electro-textile applications. The greatest changes in electrical resistances were observed with samples including thin conductive yarns and untwisted conductive yarn after dyeing processes. Additionally, it can be concluded that the presence of stainless steel conductive threads significantly retards the dyeing processes depending on the dyestuff concentration and weave type, resulting in major color differences, especially when plain weave type is used or the dyestuff concentration is less than 1% for twill and sateen weaves.

Rijitlik kumas tusesi, giysi gorunusu ve formunu etkileyen onemli bir mekanik ozelliktir. Dairesel egilme rijitligi, kumas sekillendirilebilirligi ve dokumluluk insan vucudunun giysi ile donatilmasinda buyuk bir oneme sahiptir. Bu calismada, dairesel egilme rijitligi ve dokumlulugun karsilastirilmali analizi yapilmistir. Kumas parametreleri ile deneysel verilerin karsilastirilmasi dairesel egilme rijitligi ile dokumluluk arasinda makul bir iliski oldugunu gostermistir

The appearance and hand of end-use fabrics has become more and more important when purchasing textile fabrics. The finishing parameters have complex influences on the large number of changes that occur in fabric properties during finishing processes. This study focused on the influences of different finishing parameters on mechanical and surface properties in order to discover the most appropriate finishing process according to the requirements of fabric handle and appearance. The KES-F system was used to evaluate fabric hand objectively, as well as the mechanical and surface properties of a woven wool fabric. Four finishing processes were selected, which differed in relation to the temperature when drying (T1=160 C, T2=180 C) and processing conditions during autoclave decatizing (T1=95 C, p1=0.4 bar, T2=110 C, p2=1 bar). The effect of the influential parameters inside four different finishing processes on the mechanical properties and hand of a selected woven fabric was evaluated using the analysis of variance. The results show that tensile properties are much more influenced by the belt pressing process while bending and shear properties are influenced by continuous decatizing process, which is the process that mostly improves fabric stability at the beginning of the dry finishing cycle. When the primary and total hand values were observed, it could be seen that applying chemicals during belt pressing had some consequences, the impacts of which could be observed directly in the resulting hand values.

Hot air welding technology is one of the new promising techniques for integrating conductive yarns on or into fabrics, besides weaving, knitting, printing, coating or inserting conductive yarns by the sewing and/or embroidery processes. A new issue related to the introduction of hot air welding technology for making e-textile transmission lines, i.e., the mechanical-thermal sensory properties of hot air welded etextile transmission lines, is investigated in this study. Fabric Touch Tester (FTT) was used to evaluate thermal, compressive and bending properties of hot air welded transmission lines. The results show that the bending of welded fabric increased after hot air welding in both warp and weft directions. Furthermore, the maximum thermal fl ux and thermal conductivity of welded specimens decreased in comparison to the substrate fabric. &nbsp

This paper presents optimization of the hot air welding process parameters for the formation of textile transmission lines and the electro-conductive properties of these manufactured transmission lines. A dedicated manufacturing set-up has been developed to allow a reliable and flexible textile signal transmission line at adequate conductivity. In order to manufacture textile transmission lines, different welding parameters with different conductive yarns and welding tapes were considered. Layered fabric structures consisting of textile transmission lines and fabrication tolerances were determined, as well as electro-conductive properties for welded samples. It was found that the choice of welding parameters, depending on the materials used for the formation of textile transmission lines, is extremely important for obtaining good electro-conductive properties. In addition, welding tapes and thermoplastic materials play an important role during the set-up of welding process parameters. Results statistically confirmed that welding tapes with conductive yarns can significantly cause a variety of changes in the signal qualities of welded textile transmission lines. The obtained results based on conductivity and signal-to-noise ratios are really promising for the manufacturing of e-textile transmission lines via hot air welding technology.

The number of senior citizens is rapidly increasing, which consequently signifi es an increase in the number of people having sight, hearing or memory diffi culties, people with hampered mobility, and people who fi nd it increasingly diffi cult to process information. Elderly persons experience a greater degree of risk whilst performing daily tasks in their kitchens. Moreover, they are more susceptible to infection and illnesses, necessitat- ing greater care to achieve hygienic conditions within their kitchens. The goal of our research was to determine whether people are generally content with the functionality of their kitchens and whether the degree of dissatisfac- tion increases with the age of the users. The study aims to pinpoint any major problems facing elderly people whilst working in their kitchens and to establish criteria for kitchen furniture design that could be tailored to senior users' interests, with the focus on safety. This research was carried out via individual surveys at the respondents' homes. 204 respondents participated in the research. The results show that most users do not realize that, with more appropriate kitchen equipment, they could perform daily tasks faster, safer, and with less effort. Common shortcomings include insuffi cient lighting (32 %), inappropriate sequential composition of work surfaces (56 %), ease of hygiene maintenance (68 %), inappropriately - shaped furniture (72 %), and tasks that become trouble- some because of declining memory (75 %). We believe that it is necessary to design kitchen equipment specifi cally adjusted for the needs of the elderly.

Enzyme treatment technologies in textile processing have become commonly-applied techniques for the modification of fabric-handle appearance, and other surface and mechanical characteristics of fabrics. Most studies have focused on understanding the impact of enzyme treatments on the fabric preparation, dyeing, and finishing processes of woven fabrics, whilst only limited research has been reported regarding any enzymatic effects on the surface and handproperties of knitted fabrics. The aim of this study was to analyze the effects of two different enzymes Trichoderma reesei whole cellulase, and enriched (EGIII) endoglucanase cellulase, at three different enzyme dosages on 100 % cotton interlock knitted fabric. This was in order to evaluate certain surface properties such as pilling, friction. and geometrical roughness. Furthermore, the compression and tactile properties of knitted fabric were also analyzed. The results show that treatment conditions with enzyme Trichoderma reesei whole cellulase had the more pronounced effect on the surface properties compared to the enriched EGIII enzymes. In general, it can be concluded that both types of enzymes improved the surface properties and hand when compared with the silicone softener-treated reference sample of interlock knitted fabric, as is statistically confirmed by one-way analysis of variance.

PurposeEnzyme treatment technologies are frequently applied in textile processing for the modification of fabric handle appearance and other surface characteristics in regard to cotton and cotton blended fabrics. The purpose of this paper is to understand the impact of enzyme treatments on fabric preparation, dyeing, and finishing processes of woven fabrics. In particular, certain mechanical and surface properties of 100 percent cotton interlock knitted fabrics after treatment with a cellulase enzyme.Design/methodology/approachInterlock knitted fabrics were used for this research. These cotton fabrics were treated with experimental Trichoderma reesei cellulases containing different cellulase profiles and treatment was carried out under laboratory conditions. The effects of cellulase treatment on weft knitted fabric regarding mechanical and surface properties were evaluated using the KES‐FB Kawabata evaluation system. The influence of enzyme treatments, friction, and geometrical roughness on the face and reverse side of interlock knitted fabrics were discussed in comparison with untreated interlock knitted fabric.FindingsAfter each of the enzyme treatments, the interlock knitted fabrics lost part of their weight and, therefore, they became thinner. Furthermore, the extension properties become higher in both directions with regard to the untreated knitted fabric for all used enzymes and carried out treatments.Originality/valueThe paper usefully analyzes changes in the extension and surface properties of enzyme‐treated interlock knitted fabrics by investigating the influence of whole or enriched endoglucanases celullases of Trihoderma reesei under different treatment conditions.

Clothe drape depends, on the one hand, on the mechanical and constructional properties of the textile materials and, on the other hand, on the form — construction of the cloth, and their connected positions at the seams. This article analyses the influence of seam types and directions on fabric drape. The drape coefficient together with the number and distribution of folds were determined using a Cusick Drape meter with a video camera and Drape Analyser. The results of our investigation showed that the number of folds on the samples with seams was greater, or in some cases, equal to samples without seams. The distribution and form of the folds also changed. Drape coefficient was, in most cases, greater on samples with seams than samples without seams. Furthermore it was discovered that by measurement repetition the angle values are similar even when the folds on the samples are not distributed in the same manner.

Every year million tons of textile waste is being sent to landfills. It is estimated that in Turkey approximately half of the disposed textile waste is consisted of post-consumer textile waste. Although the amount of post-consumer textile waste is as high as pre-consumer textile waste, recovering opportunities for post-consumer textile waste is substantially disregarded. The purpose of this study is to make the preliminary work to investigate potential of post-consumer textile waste and recycling/reusing possibilities in Turkey by monitoring UK and US examples. This study may contribute to developing countries as many of them are lacking of an attempt to collect, recycle or reuse post-consumer textile waste.

This study investigated the potential possibilities for obtaining textile transmission lines by incorporating conductive yarns into fabrics through a hot air welding process. Hot air sealing for obtaining textile transmission line was conducted using 100 % PES woven fabric, GoreTex® waterproof welding tape and seven different conductive yarn types, in order to form different textile transmission lines. By manufacturing using a hot air seam-sealing machine different welding parameters like welding temperature, pressure and velocity were chosen in order to find an optimal welding process for the selected fabric samples. The effects of welding parameters were examined on the electrical properties of the textile transmission lines in terms of conductivity and signal-transferring capability. Besides, the bending properties and morphologies of the welded textile transmission lines were also characterized and subjective evaluations of the appearances of textile transmission lines like puckering and the visual appearances of the surface sides of the welded textile transmission lines. The results based on conductivity and signal transferring capabilities were really promising for the manufacturing of etextile transmission lines via hot air welding technology. Moreover, the results based on bending properties showed that the lower the welding parameters the less rigid the hot air welded textile transmission lines became after welding all the used conductive yarns. Further, suitable combinations of welding parameters with the used components of textile transmission assured suitable visual appearances of the welded textile transmission lines. In this respect this research work offers a usage for hot air welding technology regarding the formations of textile transmission lines which are reliable and durable in functionality while still preserving the textiles’ aspects.

PurposeThe purpose of this paper is to analyse some mechanical properties and parameters of drapability using different methods from two different points of research area: knowledge bases and numerical modelling using the finite element method.Design/methodology/approachThe approach consists of analysing some mechanical properties and parameters of drapability using different methods from two different points of research area: knowledge bases and numerical modelling using the finite element method. The knowledge bases, named FP_B‐1 and FPO_B‐2, were used to analyse the bending rigidity of fused panels. The numerical model of fused panel NMFP is used to analyse parameters of drapability.FindingsBased on the analyses of bending rigidity and draping of fused panels the conclusions indicate the significance of interaction between mechanical properties and parameters of drapability of the fused panel to garment appearance. Furthermore, the methods used present a computer approach to the study of the fused panel properties important for the computer‐based engineering and the presentation of real behaviour of all aspects of clothes.Practical implicationsThis numerical model of a fused panel enables a 3D observation of this aspect of clothes' which is a behaviour, very important contribution to the computer planning of the behaviour of produced clothes.Originality/valueA better understanding of how to construct fused panels in clothing.

U ovom radu je istraživan uticaj sirovinskog sastava i nacina obrade tkanina vodenim ekstraktom biljaka Allium cepa L. i Juglans regia L. na stepen obojenja i antibakterijska svojstva. Za istraživanja su koristene dvije tkanine razlicitih sirovinskih sastava (100 % pamuk i 50% pamuk/50% poliester), istih konstrukcionih karakteristika i približno iste povrsinske mase. Bojenje tkanina ekstraktima biljaka rađeno je na dva nacina koristeci metodu iscrpljenja kupatila, uz dodatak razlicitih mocila (CH 3 COOH i KNaC 4 H 4 O 6 · 4H 2 O). Antibakterijska svojstva tkanina obrađenih navedenim vodenim ekstrakatima su testirana na bakterije Escherichia coli i Staphylococcus aureus koristeci metodu paralelnih linija (AATCC TM 147). Primjenjeni ekstrakti biljaka mogli bi naci primjenu u proizvodnji malih serija unikatnih ekoloski prihvatljivih proizvoda. U isto vrijeme ovako oplemenjene tkanine pokazuju određena antimikrobna svojstva. Sa ekoloske tacke gledista ekstrakti biljaka, kao prirodni proizvodi, predstavljaju pogodnu zamjenu za hemijske boje.

The mechanical and physical properties of fusible interlinings and fabrics depend on their constructional parameters, but fused panel properties depend on all of them. A new approach is presented for analysing the dependence of the constructional parameters of fabrics on the properties of fused panels. This study was carried out on the basis of a knowledge base for predicting the formability of fused panels made from wool fabrics suitable for upper clothes. This knowledge base was constructed using program package RETIS for machine learning from examples. This knowledge was presented in the form of regression trees. Using regression trees it is possible to predict the properties of a fused panel as well as to analyse the influence of parameters on the properties of a fused panel. Furthermore the results of analysis gained by regression trees were compared and confirmed using experimental measurements.

The paper presents the objective evaluation and prediction of properties of a fused panel. A system for automatic knowledge acquisition from a given set of examples presents an alternative way to build a knowledge base to determine the quality of a fused panel. On the basis of analyses of influential factors of fused panel quality the learning and testing set of examples to predict the bonding strength of fused panel has been formed.

This paper examines basic aspects of determining strain due to noise on workers in an industrial environment. Technological development enables better working conditions which then demands changes in methods for measuring strain and stress loadings. A modified method is now presented since the existing method for determining strains caused by exposure to noise is proving insufficient. The objective of the modified method is to eliminate the shortcomings of the existing method by taking into account the complex effects of noise in specific working environments. The effects of exposure to noise will be assessed by using a new strain-assessment procedure which incorporates the effects of nature of noise, characteristics of noise, current standards on protection from noise, and the influence of noise on different jobs. This new noise-assessment approach uses new measurement techniques based on tonality and impulsive noise corrections. The modified method has been tested at various workplaces in the metal-working industry. A comparison of the results obtained by using both methods confirms the suitability of the modified method, thus providing a more complete approach to evaluating strain due to noise.

Kvalitet sportske odjeće se ocjenjuje preko njene toplotno fiziološke i ergonomske udobnosti. U ovom radu je ispitivana povezanost mehaničkih svojstava pletenina i ergonomske udobnosti odjeće. Sportska odjeća se izrađuje od različitih vrsta materijala koji vizuelno mogu izgledati isto, ali kada su u pitanju mehanička svojstva koja su uveliko povezana sa prilijeganjem i deformacijom odjeće u toku upotrebe, između njih može postojati značajna razlika.Za izradu ženskih biciklističkih hlača korištene su dvije vrste pletenina istih konstrukcijskih karaktristika ali različitih sirovinskih sastava. Od navedenih pletenina izrađena su dva modela ženskih biciklističkih hlača. Za izradu oba modela hlača korišteni su krojni dijelovi iste konstrukcije ali sa kombinacijama pletenina različite rastegljivosti za pojedine krojne dijelove radi postizanja bolje ergonomske udobnosti. Povezanost mehaničkih svojstava pletenina i ergonomske udobnosti modela ženskih biciklističkih hlača utvrđivana je kroz probe nošenja i subjektivno ocjenjivanje.

Hot air welding technology is one of the new promising techniques for integrating conductive yarns on or into fabrics, besides weaving, knitting, printing, coating or inserting conductive yarns by the sewing and/or embroidery processes. A new issue related to the introduction of hot air welding technology for making e-textile transmission lines, i.e., the mechanical-thermal sensory properties of hot air welded e-textile transmission lines, is investigated in this study. Fabric Touch Tester (FTT) was used to evaluate thermal, compressive and bending properties of hot air welded transmission lines. The results show that the bending of welded fabric increased after hot air welding in both warp and weft directions. Furthermore, the maximum thermal flux and thermal conductivity of welded specimens decreased in comparison to the substrate fabric.

This study investigated the potential possibilities for obtaining textile transmission lines by incorporating conductive yarns into fabrics through a hot air welding process. Hot air sealing for obtaining textile transmission line was conducted using 100 % PES woven fabric, GoreTex (R) waterproof welding tape and seven different conductive yarn types, in order to form different textile transmission lines. By manufacturing using a hot air seam-sealing machine different welding parameters like welding temperature, pressure and velocity were chosen in order to find an optimal welding process for the selected fabric samples. The effects of welding parameters were examined on the electrical properties of the textile transmission lines in terms of conductivity and signal-transferring capability. Besides, the bending properties and morphologies of the welded textile transmission lines were also characterized and subjective evaluations of the appearances of textile transmission lines like puckering and the visual appearances of the surface sides of the welded textile transmission lines. The results based on conductivity and signal transferring capabilities were really promising for the manufacturing of e-textile transmission lines via hot air welding technology. Moreover, the results based on bending properties showed that the lower the welding parameters the less rigid the hot air welded textile transmission lines became after welding all the used conductive yarns. Further, suitable combinations of welding parameters with the used components of textile transmission assured suitable visual appearances of the welded textile transmission lines. In this respect this research work offers a usage for hot air welding technology regarding the formations of textile transmission lines which are reliable and durable in functionality while still preserving the textiles' aspects.

The middle of the last century presents the beginning of a wide use of heat technologies for joining of the textile materials. Up to now, adhesive bonding/fusing of textile materials by application of heat and pressure during the determinate time has become a wide‐use technology for manufacturing numerous kinds of textile products, such as outdoor and sport garments, underwear, swimming suits, medical gowns, toys, and automotive seating fabrics. Fusing and welding technologies of textiles represent today a significant competition to traditional sewing, because the technological process is quick and energy efficient. The welding and fusing of textiles represent a great opportunity for providing a good performance as well as aesthetic appearance. New types of fusing/welding machines with high technological solutions regarding the functions, low energy consumptions, and environmental‐friendly effects are placed on the market. This chapter presents fusing, hot air and hot wedge welding techniques, suitable for joining of textile materials. The theoretical background and fundamental working principles of the equipment for each technology are presented in the first part of the chapter. Special attention is given to presentation of thermoplastic adhesives, textile substrates for fusible interlinings, and welding tapes. Next, the fusing/welding methods and their parameters are described, and the methods for quality evaluation of fused/welded panels are presented. The effect of fusing/welding parameters, selected methods depending on applied fabrics, fusible interlinings and welding tapes, and used fusing/welding machines are discussed separately. Factors effecting the quality of fused and hot air/wedge welded panels are supported with latest scientific findings. The advantages and disadvantages of the presented techniques are discussed together with the applications areas of each of the presented techniques. The new application opportunities are also highlighted at the end of the chapter.