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The skin is the largest organ of the human body and has several functions such as barrier against external agents, the maintenance of temperature and homeostatic functions. Skin ageing is a natural process that can be influenced by environmental factors, intrinsic skin factors and lifestyle. UV light plays an important role in skin ageing and can cause spots, requiring the use of depigmenting agents. Nowadays, there is a great demand for ingredients that prevent skin ageing, with natural agents occupying a promising position. Among the natural agents, polyphenols, such as resveratrol and piceatannol, found in grapes, passion fruits and other fruits, have a huge relevance. Great benefits of piceatannol have been reported, so thus, this work focuses specifically on a review of the literature regarding the application of this polyphenol in skin care products. This polyphenol can be used in a wound‐healing, or as anti‐ageing, antioxidant, anti‐acne and skin whitening, among other effects. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objective: Sensitive skin is characterized by self‐reported sensory perceptions in response to stimuli that should not provoke unpleasant sensations. Cosmetic products for sensitive skin are designed to minimize these symptoms. This study aimed to unveil the most used active ingredients for sensitive skin in facial care products from the pharmacy and parapharmacy channel. Methods: A pool of products from the pharmacy and parapharmacy channel whose label included the expressions 'sensitive skin', 'reactive skin' or 'intolerant skin' were analysed. The active ingredients were identified from product compositions and ranked in descending order of occurrence. The scientific evidence regarding the mechanism of action and efficacy of each ingredient was also compiled. Results: Eighty‐eight products from 19 multinational brands were included. Niacinamide leads the top, followed by Avena sativa, allantoin, glycyrrhetinic acid and derivatives and Laminaria ochroleuca. Ingredients that can reduce skin inflammation and act on the skin barrier were used in more than half of the products analysed. The clinical studies regarding the active ingredients used in these products remain sparse and lack methodological quality. Among the top ingredients, niacinamide, panthenol and acetyl dipeptide‐1 cetyl ester were the only ones studied on volunteers having sensitive skin, while acetyl dipeptide‐1 cetyl ester and palmitoyl tripeptide‐8 were designed to act on the molecular targets involved in this condition. Conclusion: This study reveals the most used active ingredients in cosmetic products for sensitive skin, as well as the scientific evidence supporting their efficacy and the mechanisms of action. This insight is meaningful for dermatologists and other health professionals to provide customized advice based on the symptomatology of individuals with sensitive skin, and for the formulation of cosmetic products and design of new active ingredients. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Polyphenols are a large family of natural compounds widely used in cosmetic products due to their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory beneficial properties and their ability to prevent UV radiation-induced oxidative stress. Since these compounds present chromophores and are applied directly to the skin, they can react with sunlight and exert phototoxic effects. The available scientific information on the phototoxic potential of these natural compounds is scarce, and thus the aim of this study was to evaluate the photoreactivity and phototoxicity of five phenolic antioxidants with documented use in cosmetic products. A standard ROS assay was validated and applied to screen the photoreactivity of the natural phenolic antioxidants caffeic acid, ferulic acid, p-coumaric acid, 3,4-dihydroxyphenylacetic acid (DOPAC), and rutin. The phototoxicity potential was determined by using a human keratinocyte cell line (HaCaT), based on the 3T3 Neutral Red Uptake phototoxicity test. Although all studied phenolic antioxidants absorbed UV/Vis radiation in the range of 290 to 700 nm, only DOPAC was able to generate singlet oxygen. The generation of reactive oxygen species is an early-stage chemical reaction as part of the phototoxicity mechanism. Yet, none of the studied compounds decreased the viability of keratinocytes after irradiation, leading to the conclusion that they do not have phototoxic potential. The data obtained with this work suggests that these compounds are safe when incorporated in cosmetic products. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The viability of probiotic bacteria in six food-grade polymers, at two concentrations, was evaluated in order to predict their feasibility as materials for bacterium immobilisation. Alginate and whey proteins were the most adequate polymers, except for Lactobacillus acidophilus Ki and Lactobacillus casei 01 at 2% (m/v) alginate. Xanthan gum appeared to be a potential vector for three strains. L-carrageenan was adequate for both Bifidobacterium strains, but not for Lactobacillus at 2% (m/v). Bifidobacterium strains were not negatively affected by cellulose acetate phthalate, while the opposite held for L. acidophilus strains. Chitosan was the poorest polymer for immobilisation of probiotic bacteria. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]