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Recent research has elucidated the effects of strength training on climbing performance. Although local muscular endurance training of the upper-limbs and finger flexors is frequently suggested, there is currently insufficient evidence to support its impact on climbing performance and climbing-specific strength. Furthermore, there is no evidence on climbers' experiences related to training and the likelihood of consistent engagement. In addition, the effects of more climbing-specific strength training on walls with built in lights and adjustable angles have yet to be examined. The low percentage of studies involving female subjects, additionally, demonstrates a significant gap in understanding the specific effects of strength training on women in the context of climbing. The aim of this study was thus to assess the effects of five-week on-, and off-the-wall climbing training on climbing performance, climbing-specific strength, and training experience. Thirty-one female lower-grade to advanced climbers were randomly assigned to either a control group, an off-the-wall training or an on-the-wall training group. Apart from the training regimen, all groups followed their usual climbing and bouldering routine. Subjects trained at least twice a week. Bouldering performance, and maximum strength and muscular endurance of the finger flexors and upper-limbs were assessed before and after the intervention. Furthermore, rate of perceived exertion and discomfort, exercise enjoyment, and exercise pleasure were assessed during the first and last training session, as well as after two and a half weeks of training. Intrinsic training motivation was assessed after the last training session. The results showed trends towards positive effects of off-the-wall training on climbing-specific strength, and on-the-wall training on climbing technique. Furthermore, our finding revealed high exercise enjoyment and intrinsic training motivation for both on- and off-the-wall training. Hence, lower-grade to advanced female climbers should rely on personal training preferences. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The aim of the present study was to compare the effects of assisted and resisted plyometric jump training on jump height, sprint performance (acceleration (0–20m), maximum speed (30–40m) and 40m sprint time) among physically active females. Fifty-six participants (age: 21.1 ± 1.7 years; body mass: 64.2 ± 7.0 kg; height: 168.0 ± 5.6 cm) were randomly allocated to either an assisted (n = 16) or resisted training group (n = 17), or a control group (n = 14). Nine participants dropped out during the intervention. The training sessions consisted of three different plyometric jump exercises over an eight-week period, while the control group continued their normal training routine. The results revealed a significant between-group difference in jump height and maximal speed. The resisted training group achieved a significantly greater improvement in jump height compared to the active control group (p =.04, ES=1.06), and a significantly greater improvement in maximal speed (p =.02, ES = 0.93) when compared to the assisted training group. No other group differences were observed for jump height, acceleration or in maximal speed (p =.31–.53). The resisted training group improved jump height (p =.01, ES = 0.62) and maximum speed (p =.03, ES = 0.48) from pre- to post-test, while the control group improved maximal speed (p =.04, ES = 0.37) and acceleration (p =.01, ES = 0.68). All three groups improved their 40m sprint time from pre- to post-test (p =.01–.04, ES = 0.38–0.45). In conclusion, resisted plyometric training was more effective than assisted plyometric training for improving the maximal speed and more effective than the active control condition for increasing jump height. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

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This study evaluated the effects of a five-week period of practicing specific climbing movements using a system wall on motor skills and bouldering performance compared to self-regulated, conventional bouldering. Thirteen advanced female boulderers (age: 24.5 ± 3.6 years, height: 166.9 ± 3.4 cm, and body mass: 63.4 ± 8.0 kg) were divided into an experimental group ( n  = 7) and a control group ( n  = 6). Both groups continued their normal training routines during the intervention, but the experimental group dedicated 30 minutes of their climbing time twice per week to practicing specific motor skills on a system climbing wall. Before and after the intervention, the participants attempted two boulder problems on the same wall. The performance was registered as the number of attempts to complete the boulder problems and as the highest hold reached within four attempts. Video recordings of climbers' best attempts, capturing the highest hold reached from a perspective directly behind them, were analyzed by three independent experts. The analysis was conducted using a five-point scale across six categories of movement quality. Modest enhancements in certain motor skills and performance were evident in both groups, revealing no significant distinction between them. The results underscore the efficacy of incorporating system walls into the training routines of advanced female boulder climbers, but the absence of between-group differences highlights the significance of individual preferences when choosing between conventional and system wall bouldering., Competing Interests: The authors declare that they have no conflicts of interest., (Copyright © 2024 Nicolay Stien et al.)