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Svaki pojedinac svojim aktivnostima utječe na stanje okoliša. Nije nepoznanica da su zagađenje okoliša, klimatske promjene i smanjenje prirodnih resursa izravna posljedica djelovanja ljudi, odnosno rezultat povećanja broja stanovnika što je dovelo i do povećane potražnje za raznim proizvodima i materijalima. Stoga se danas velika pozornost usmjeruje prema djelotvornijem gospodarenju prirodnim resursima kao i smanjenju bilo koje vrste otpada. Učinkovito gospodarenje otpadom predstavlja problematiku koja je prisutna već duži niz godina u mnogim zemljama diljem svijeta. Iako su mnogim zakonskim aktima propisane mjere u svrhu smanjenja otpada i njegovog prikladnog zbrinjavanja postavlja se pitanje koliko su pojedinci upoznati s tim mjerama, osobito ukoliko se radi o posebnim kategorijama otpada, a za koje je propisana obveza odvojenog sakupljanja, poput tekstila. Premda je Zakonom o gospodarenju otpadom, NN 84/2021, propisana opća obveza odvojenog sakupljanja tekstila, u Republici Hrvatskoj procjenjuje se da sakupljen otpadni tekstil čini svega 1/5 godišnje generiranog otpadnog tekstila. Kako bi se dobio realniji uvid zašto je količina sakupljenog otpadnog tekstila ispod razine prosjeka Europske unije, provedeno je anketno ispitivanje hrvatskih građana na tu temu.

"3Rs - Reuse, reduce, recycle" are all words that indicate the need to reduce the amount of waste and its recovery, which is the main rule of long- term sustainability. In doing so, they contribute to numerous benefits, such as savings in production and the creation of a more responsible attitude towards nature, since it can be applied in many aspects of our lives - from the economy, hobbies to everyday life in the household. In this work, the possibilities of recycling the production leftovers of carbon fibre reinforced composites (so-called production or clean waste) in the production of “Rimac Automobili” will be explored, with a premise to convert them in a kind of fashion accessory for the needs of the fashion line of the same brand.

Although rare, hunting accidents are a problem for forensics, both because of different weapons (cold weapon/firearm) and different clothing worn by hunters, which depends on status, fashion, property, season, customs, etc. The paper explores the possibility of using forensic indicators in the identification of firearms that are responsible for damages of hunting clothing made of high-efficiency materials, which are increasingly common in the manufacture of protective clothing for hunters nowadays.

Textiles made of sea silk known as sea wool, golden fiber or the fiber of Gods were available only to the emperors, kings and other high class members. Such fabric was obtained from the noble pen shell (lat. Pinna nobilis), the largest shellfish of the Mediterranean which has been listed as an endangered species. The production of sea silk today is almost non-existent, due to the complexity and the secrecy of the thread obtaining process and due to the large protection of the noble pen shell. This paper explores the byssus, thread complex of another bivalve mollusc, Mediterranean mussel (lat. Mytilus galloprovincialis) as an alternative to the traditional sea silk and as a new, renewable, biodegradable and environmentally friendly raw material source which can be used in the fashion and textile industry of the 21st century.

Today, textile fibres and materials are besides producing garments, also used for a wide range of other products such as: different types of transport vehicles, sportswear, protective equipment, etc. Textile fibres are also increasingly used as structural materials, in so-called fibres reinforced composites. Such variety of textile usage cause their frequent occurrence as material traces in criminal act or accidental situations. The qualification and quantification of high- performance materials damages are extremely difficult especially when it comes to damages caused by firearms. In this work, through systematic approach and the application of standardized destructive and/or new, non- destructive textiles testing methods, the possibilities of objective evaluation of high-performance composite materials damages caused by firearms have been explored. Special attention was put on the impact of firearm types (different calibre) and firing distance on the resulting damages of modern composite materials. Acquired findings enable the exact characterization of created damage as well as the type of weapons that committed the criminal offense, which is one of the basic prerequisites in dealing with crimes.

Forensic science is unavoidable when it comes to crime resolving. However, every criminal act is unique and sometimes science will not be enough to reveal the criminals, but will require experience and intuition of forensic experts as well. Every innovative solution can be helpful in catching the perpetrators of criminal act. Textile fibres, as one of the traces types, are very common physical evidence that can have a decisive importance in crime resolving. Because of that, it is important to determine the probative value of textile fibres as a material evidence. An aggravating factor in evaluation of fibre as a material evidence will represent a large number of fibres processing and modifications that are present at the modern textile materials. Therefore, in this study research regarding the transfer of textile fibres during physical attacks due to the different levels of textiles pre-treatment is performed.

The demand for advanced textile materials has dramatically increased during the last few decades, in particular for engineering, medical and technical applications. A new sight proposed by project ADVANCETEX is in the merging of so far separate research teams involved in the development of advanced textile materials, through targeted eco-driven surface modifications. Surface pre-treatments and modification were carried out on selected sustainable textile materials, using environmentally friendly substances and processes, in order to attain antimicrobial, flame retardant, oil/hydrophobic, wellness or medical properties obtaining high added value textiles. Project activities and results are briefly presented.

Za drugu polovicu XX. stoljeća vežu se neka od najznačajnijih otkrića u području tekstilnih vlakana. Vrijeme je to u kojem nastaju umjetna vlakna iz različitih sintetskih polimera, vlakna ciljanih, visokih svojstava u upotrebi, pa čak i pametna/inteligentna vlakna. Međutim, ulaskom u XXI. stoljeće pokazalo se da to nije dovoljno. Na tekstilna vlakana počinju se osim funk cionalnosti postavljati i različiti ekološki zahtjevi poput zahtjeva za održivom proizvodnjom, zahtjeva za biorazgradivošću, oporabom i korištenjem obnov ljivih sirovina. Upravo stoga interes istraživača usmjeren je s jedne strane na pronalaženje novih vlaknotvornih biljaka i/ili životinja te lako obnovljivih sirovina za održivu proizvodnju vlakana, a s druge strane na biorazgradivost vlakana kako ista, s obzirom na povećanu potražnju i širenje područja pri mjene ne bi, u slučaju nemogućnosti oporabe ili zbog nedostatka ekološke svijesti, opteretila okoliš. U ovom radu dan je uvod u tematiku biorazgradivih vlakna i pregled nekih komercijalno značajnih biorazgradivih vlakana te prikaz mogućih novih vlakana u XXI. stoljeću.

According to the State department for statistic, there are 700 thousand sheep in Croatia. Most of them are crossbreeds, although there are still some autochthonous breeds left over. With the unique genetic inheritance, they are a reflection of our tradition and climate, presenting also a valuable part of our rich biodiversity. In order to preserve Croatian unique sheep breeds and sub-breeds and to revive interest in Croatian domestic wool wide- ranging field and laboratory investigations were started at the Faculty of Textile Technology University of Zagreb. Our goal is to define wool quality of each autochthonous sheep breeds and sub-breeds and in that way preserve them from oblivion. At this moment, we are focused on sheep sub-breed “Lička pramenka”, precisely on its wool fineness and medullation and possibilities of proper clip preparation.

Several years ago, it became quite apparent that firefighters are the usual first responders to many major disasters. With the increased threat of terrorism, the types of hazards that firefighters, police officers’, soldiers and first responders may face have expanded dramatically. Turnout clothing cannot protect firefighters in an environment where there has been a release of chemical, biological, radiological or nuclear (CBRN) agents. Today, some protective clothing systems are developed that firefighters being provided with protection during structural fire, but also permitting protection for the types of hazards that can occur during terrorism events. In 2004 Technical Support Working Group in USA sponsored research and development project to develop protective ensembles that would afford firefighters the extra protection that was needed in the case of a terrorism event that involved CBRN agents. In this paper firefighters clothing with chemical, biological and radiological (CBR) protection are described. The special design (includes functional design and ergonomically features) of CBR firefighters' protective clothing is shown

Today textiles hold an important place in our daily life. Textile is not only just beautiful designer goods, bed or tablecloth. Textile has become an integral, if not reinforcing part of rockets, airplanes, cars, skis, sailing boats, kayaks, golf and baseball bats, tyres, heart muscles, blood vessels and new architectural miracles. If one bears in mind exponential population growth and an increase in living standards, it is clear that demand for textile raw materials is growing enormously and that producers of textile fibres are not able to satisfy the need for the adequate textile raw materials in the traditional way. That is why in the area of textile, significant efforts are put in research and development of new, preferably renewable textile raw materials, as well as on new and more comprehensive textile recycling processes and/or recycling of new 21st century materials that contain textiles in its structure or, are based on the textiles such as fibre- reinforced composites. One of such products, which in its structure contains significant amounts of high- performance fibres and may be recyclable are discarded tyres from different transport vehicles. How to get fibrous material from waste vehicles tyres, some of the qualitative characteristics of the obtained recycled textile fibres and recommendation for their reuse are presented in this paper.

For some time design of a new product is not connected only with aesthetic, artistic appearance but moreover with functionality and engineering (from rightful selection of materials, construction, and technological concept to prototyping). Only in this way, new product will be designed and functionalized according to the end user needs and requirements, which is important nowadays when designing a new product is a complex field of practice, which operates, in a competitive, global industry. Military footwear have lot of specific requirements to fulfil starting from maintaining and enhancing mobility to the maximizing protection and eliminating or minimizing the risk for the wearer (protection against ballistics ; battery acid ; degradation by sea water, human sweat, or microbiological agents ; falling heavy objects ; flames or heat ; insects and snake bites ; nuclear and chemical threats ; etc). Therefore, designing appropriate military footwear represent a great challenge not only for designers but for engineers as well. Having all that in mind few years ago, Faculty of Textile Technology University of Zagreb started research with the aim to develop 21st century multifunctional footwear for e.g. military, police, first respondents or any special human forces for different weather environment. The paper present how it was done in the case of boots for hot environment conditions.

Having in mind that maximum sail performance or usage can be achieved with an optimal aerodynamic shape of the sails, stability of the initial sail shape, its air impermeability and smooth surface sailmakers thought that their search for the ideal sailchloth is finished when laminated sails were first introduced in the early 1970s. Those sails that were made as fibre reinforced composites (FRC) had all in one: light weight, high strength, low stretch and smooth surface1. Although FRC sails revolutionised sailmaking and sailing in whole, today after almost 50 years of research and development in the field, the search for the perfect sailcloth, especially in the racing or high demanding sailing, is not finished. One of the sailcloth quality parameters that was not jet investigated in deep and fully understand is sailcloth`s surface smoothness/roughness. That is why we started to investigate surface roughness of the most wanted FRC sailcloth. By using modified KES (Kawabata Evaluation System) measurements, we manage to determine differences in surface roughness and friction coefficient for the face and the beck side of the investigated FRC sailcloth. Such findings can explain why some high-performance and highly sophisticated sailcloth are not useful in winning a race.

Insulation materials play a primary role in achieving high energy efficiencies in buildings. Commonly used building insulating materials are often made from inorganic materials that can be harmful to human health and environment causing pollution through emissions of toxic gas and particles. Also, at the end of their life cycle, when disposed on landfills, these synthetic non-biodegradable insulation materials can represent an increasing environmental problem. So, the search for more sustainable, eco- and health friendly biodegradable building insulation materials become necessity. That is why last couple of years building insulation based on natural fibres become more popular. One of such materials is an insulation material based on sheep wool. Apart it is easily renewable and recyclable material which has positive ecological properties, it is also biodegradable and, when disposed in landfill will break down over times without any negative environmental impact. The aim of this study is to investigate the naturally occurring biodegradation of wool insulation materials under different condition and under different time periods.

Archaeological textiles are among the most challenging of all artefacts to handle and conserve. Unlike any other types of preserved inherited movable goods, textile creations are considerably different in structure. Often made from natural fibers, usually wool, cotton, linen and silk, having survived hundreds, sometimes thousands of years in the ground, they tend to deteriorate rapidly under influence of physical, chemical and biological factors. The archaeological textile which is presented in this paper originates from the archaeological site (dated between 14th to 17th centuries) near Petrijevci that was discovered during ground testing for the construction of a new highway. All textile finding are mostly inseparably linked with soil and other impurities like wood, metal and human remains showing significant changes in structure due to the degradation process. In order to preserve them for future generation as a proof of our history it is necessary to conduct appropriate preparative conservation procedures before restoration and final conservation for the future.

Trace evidence is often instrumental in building a criminal case or establishing a course of events. Any time that two objects come into contact, trace evidence may be left. These substances can be used to trace the movement of an object or contact between people. In that way fibre evidence is form that can be used to determine whether two people came into contact with one another or if a person was in a certain location. The identification of fibres collected from the victim and from the suspect can be used as a proof that the suspect was on the crime scene. But, for carrying out the methods of criminal identification the quantity and quality of traces is of primary importance. That’s why, in this study, fibre distribution as well as the amount of transferred fibres from different origin are investigated.

Properties of interlining fabrics should be accustomed to the properties of a shell fabric and construction of clothing regarding good stability, drapability, mechanical properties and minimal deformation in usage and care. Since quality and durability of a fused panel depend on various parameters, the research presented here was focused on objective characterization of interlinings before the fusing process and afterwards on the quality of the obtained fused panels specially in textile care processes. Three types of interlinings, suitable for a silk fabric`s blouses were analyzed by the scanning electron microscope (SEM) regarding interlinings surface characterization. During dry cleaning and washing processess the fused panels showed different performances and appearance is one of them for which. SEM can be a useful analysing tool.

This paper presents a systematic approach to restoration and conservation work on the textile artifact from the collection of the Samobor Museum. Based on a detailed analysis of the present status, processes and methods of preventive conservation and partial restoration of the vest’s original colour were defined. Restoration and conservation work that were carried out lead to the definition of vest’s origin ( time and place), refreshing of original green colour of outer fabric and removing of dirt and insects as potential harmful substances as well as cleaning of the vest’s lining. All loose pieces of the vest were attached, supports for storing vest were made and a proposal for future work, display and storage is done.

In forensic textile examinations one of the often encountered problems is potential overlap of target fibres in terms of visual characteristics (especially colour). This is why usual identification methods like comparison microscopy and microspectrophotometry are not enough and it is necessary to turn to “destructive” methods like thin layer chromatography (TLC). Since destructive methods are the last resort in forensic science, in this paper probability of using of FT-IR method instead of TLC was investigated in order to identify differences between blue cotton samples.

Thanks to its wide range of combination and design possibilities fibre reinforced composites (FRC) are considered to be material of the future. Although in the world of sailcloth such materials have come to focus almost 15 years ago their mystery is still not revealed, especially when their resistance to the forces of the wind is in question. That is also one of the reasons why, in spite of all their knowledge in aerodynamic and sail design sail-makers are still not able to make perfect sail. Last couple of years many material scientists are trying to get a better understanding of FRC materials, precisely their stress and strain principles and responses as well as fracture phenomenon. In accordance to this a lot of work is undertaking on the testing procedure` adjustments that might be helpful in exposing what actually occurs in material for the period of loading. Work presented in this paper is that type of an experiment with the goal to visually analyze manifestation of FRC sailcloth through their complete strain-stress curve.

Wool has been used throughout history by many cultures for a various purposes. Even now when world is infested with man-made fibers the overall believe is that wool remains an ideal fiber choice for many products - from clothing to construction. So, declaration that Croatian wool is threat and increasing waste to the landscape can not ne accepted. Still, some threats exist like: lack of knowledge by sheep breeders, diversity of sheep flocks, fragmented sheep stock, main orientation on sheep raising for meat, absence of wool repurchase and processing, disinterested government and ministry of agriculture and finally absence of any supervision or management on waste wool disposal. Since each wool is a valuable resource that can be produced in a sustainable manner, marketing simulation model that can be applicable to Croatian market circumstances and which can prove that wool is a valuable natural resource that can be produced in a sustainable, thoughtful and economically acceptable manner, was done.

Textile for medical purposes is not a new application, it has been used for quite a long time. But in the past 20 years textile became one of key factors in the field that is today known as tissue engineering. In this paper emphasis will be placed on textile scaffolds. Paper will explain scaffolds function, materials from which they are made of and its production techniques.

Today, in each new product development considerable efforts should be put in designing process from rightful selection of materials, construction, and technological concept to prototyping and consumer desires. Only in that case new product will be designed and functionalized according to the end user needs and requirements. Military boots have lot of specific requirements, so all its components should be optimized to enable the activity, which could be successfully carried out whilst maximizing protection and eliminating or minimizing the risk. Therefore, in the design of new military boots it should be kept in mind the balance between design requirements and function, characteristic of materials, performance, protection and comfort of end users. Military boots are traditionally made of hardened and waterproofed leather but today in its production, many new materials, such as Gore-Tex or Sympatex membranes, which improve ventilation and comfort, can be used. Soldier's footwear or military boots are also regularly specialized for certain climates and/or conditions, such as jungle boots, desert boots and cold weather boots or tanker boots and jump boots as boots for the specific use. In the frame of development projects carried out by the University of Zagreb Faculty of Textile Technology for the Ministry of Defense of the Republic of Croatia, new military boots for desert condition are designed. In designing and production of new boots high quality waterproof leather, multilayered textile materials (PA, cotton and PES), three-layer laminate with a waterproof and breathable membrane (1st layer 80% PA / 20% PES ; 2nd layer PTFE membrane ; 3rd layer 100% PA) and outsole in combination PU/rubber were used in order to maximize resistance on abrasion, tearing, perforation, penetration, bending and motor fuels, while at the same time assuring proper comfort for end users in harsh desert environment.

Danas, osim za izradu konvencionalnih tekstilnih proizvoda, lanena vlakna se sve više koriste i za izradu biokompozitnih materijala različite namjene. Razlog za to su specifična svojstva lanenih vlakana poput visoke čvrstoće, otpornosti na toplinu, netaljivosti, niske gustoće, netoksičnosti, biorazgradivosti, morfološke posebnosti i niže cijene. Automobilska industrija zahvaljujući Europskoj direktivi 2000/53/EC predstavlja industriju koja se danas uveliko oslanja na upotrebu biokompozita kao strukturnih materijala pri čemu lan sve više dobiva na važnosti.

Ekstremno jedrenje kao posebno zahtjevna kategorija jedrenja osim izuzetno osposobljene i uigrane posade jedrilice, zahtijeva i kvalitetne materijale za izradu jedrilice i jedara. Razvoj visokoučinkovitih vlakana krajem prošlog stoljeća rezultirao je svojevrsnom revolucijom u svijetu materijala za izradu jedara. Visokoučinkovitim vlaknima ojačani kompoziti postali su primarni izbor vrhunskih jedriličara, ne samo zbog većih brzina već i zbog sigurnosti. U radu su prikazane karakteristike materijala za izradu jedara koji se danas smatraju najpoželjnijima za ekstremno jedrenje.

Croatian domestic wool is not used in traditional textile industry as raw material since the overall perception is that it is too coarse for fine wool products, and because of that it is mostly disposed in the environment regardless of its limited capacity to accept such kind of waste. In order to avoid harmful influence of domestic wool on the land and to revive interest in it, wide- ranging field and laboratory investigations were started at the Faculty of Textile Technology, University of Zagreb. The obtained results showed that majority of Croatian domestic wool (e.g. wool of the predominant sheep breed, so called Pramenka), with a proper clip preparations and environmentally friendly scouring, can be used not only as replacement for some imported coarser carpet wool, but also as highly capable sorption material, assuring it rightful place in Croatian economy and future sustainable development.

Ulazak u 21. stoljeće obilježio je značajan razvoj na području materijala, bilo kroz sintezu novih ili modifikaciju postojećih što je iznimno vidljivo u domeni tekstilnih vlakana i plošnih proizvoda. Danas se tekstilna vlakna i plošni proizvodi, osim za proizvodnju odjevnih predmeta, koriste i za širok spektar drugih proizvoda kao što su različite vrste prometala, sportska i zaštitna oprema, sportski rekviziti, a tekstilna vlakna se kao takva sve češće, kao vlaknima ojačani kompoziti, koriste i kao strukturni materijali (geo-tekstilije, ojačani beton, medicinske tekstilije i sl.). Procjenjuje se da je proizvodnja ove vrste tekstilnih proizvoda u 2013. iznosila cca 28 milijuna tona (tržište vrijedno cca 150 milijardi USD), a očekuje se da će se isti trend (porast proizvodnje i potrošnje od 4% na godinu) nastaviti i u budućnosti, što za posljedicu ima povećanje tekstilnog otpada i potrebe za njegovim primjerenim zbrinjavanjem. Iako je oporaba tekstilija najbolji i najpoželjniji način zbrinjavanja otpadnih tekstilija, u stvarnosti je primjereno zbrinjavanje mnogo složenije, a ponekad i nemoguće. Posebno se to odnosi na suvremene, multifunkcionalne ili strukturne tekstilije bazirane na visokoučinkovitim vlaknima i/ili pametnim materijalima. Da bi se u budućnosti smanjio tekstilni otpad, uštedjela energija, očuvao okoliš i zdravlje ljudi nužno je u projektiranje i dizajn novih tekstilija osim funkcionalnosti ugraditi i principe eko-dizajna ili tzv. zelenog dizajna (dizajn za recikliranje).

Sveučilište u Zagrebu Tekstilno-tehnološki fakultet organizirao je po sedmi puta međunarodni znanstveni kongres International Textile, Clothing & Design Conference koji je održan od 5. do 8. listopada 2014. godine u Međunarodnom središtu hrvatskih studija u Dubrovniku. Od 2002. godine ITC&DC kongres se održava svake dvije godine početkom listopada u Međunarodnom središtu hrvatskih studija u Dubrovniku, pa je stoga ovaj kongres tradicionalan i jedan od najznačajnijih europskih i svjetskih skupova za područje tekstilnih i odjevnih tehnologija, mode, dizajna i marketinga. Ovaj kongres postao je značajni međunarodni forum za prezentiranje i izmjenu znanja, iskustva, rezultata i spoznaja koje su vezane uz nova znanstvena dostignuća ne samo u polju tekstilne i odjevne tehnologije već i dizajna i marketinga tekstila i odjeće.

Ulaskom u 21. stoljeće riječ tekstil dobiva novu paradigmu. Novi materijali i suvremene tehnologije omogućile su da tradicionalni tekstil poprimi karakteristiku pametnog i/ili inteligentnog i na taj način znanstvenu fantastiku nekad, danas stvarnost, dovede u naš ormar.

U posljednjih deset godina bilježi se porast proizvodnje vlakana s 59 na 85 mil. t godišnje što je rezultat rasta globalne populacije i poboljšanja životnog standarda, ali i rezultat činjenice da danas industrijalizirana i razvijena društva koriste tekstilna vlakna i materijale, osim za proizvodnju odjevnih predmeta, i za širok spektar drugih proizvoda kao što su različite vrste prometala, sportska i zaštitna oprema, sportski rekviziti, a tekstilna vlakna se sve češće koriste kao vlaknima ojačani kompoziti i kao strukturni materijali (geomembrane, ojačani beton i sl.). Posljedica svega toga je povećanje tekstilnog otpada i potrebe za njegovim primjerenim zbrinjavanjem. Iako je recikliranje i oporaba tekstila najbolji i najpoželjniji način zbrinjavanja otpadnih tekstilija, u stvarnosti je primjereno zbrinjavanje otpadnih tekstilija mnogo složenije nego se čini. Posebno se to odnosi na suvremene tekstilne inženjerske ili strukturne materijale bazirane na tekstilu poput visokoučinkovitih (HP prema engl. High Performance) i pametnih materijala (SM prema engl. Smart Materials). U radu je dan prikaz mogućnosti recikliranja i oporabe složenih i višekomponentnih, tj. visokoučinkovitih i pametnih tekstilija čije je recikliranje iznimno složeno, teško, skupo, a ponekad i nemoguće. Može se očekivati da će se u budućnosti kroz obrazovanje i jačanje ekološke svijesti, favoriziranje održivih načina proizvodnje novih tekstilija uz istovremeno iznalaženje primjerenih modela njihovog recikliranja smanjiti tekstilni otpad, uštedjeti energija, očuvati okoliš i zdravlje ljudi. Da bi se to ostvarilo, nužno je u projektiranje i dizajn suvremenih tekstilija ugraditi načela ekodizajna ili tzv. zelenog dizajna (dizajn za recikliranje i dizajn iz recikliranog).

Hrvatski restauratorski zavod organizirao je od 23. do 25. listopada 2013. godine u prostorijama muzeja Mimara u Zagrebu znanstveno-stručno savjetovanje pod nazivom „Etički pristup umjetninama od tekstila“. Ovaj skup bio je peti u nizu skupova koji se bavi tematikom očuvanja i zaštite tekstilne kulturne baštine, a četvrti u nizu s međunarodnim sudjelovanjem.

Although textile recycling is known from an ancient time, today it still manages to capture our attention, especially in the area of protective and smart textiles. Last decade we are witnessing a great increase in the production and utilization of such textiles, and as can be expected the amount of this purposefully targeted textile that has to be safety disposed is growing endangering in that way environmental capacity of Earth. Having all that in mind as well as a fact that most protective and smart textiles are not simple ones impelled a lot of textile scientists and engineers in the research of possible ways in which such 21st century textiles can be reused, recycled or disposed. Within this paper some possibilities of protective and smart clothing recyclability are presented. Focus is put on standard combat army uniform, chemical/biohazard hazmat suit and e-shirt that can be used by soldiers or patient.

Modern textile finishing processes have to meet high demands due to the expectations of customers and as well as due to the washing durability. Wellness finishing aims wellbeing during wearing of textiles. The research is focused on so called cosmetic-textiles or cosmetotextiles obtained by impregnation with different concentrations of microcapsules containing cyclodextrin-vitamin E complex. Streaming potential is applied as control methodology for microcapsules durability in the washing process. Zeta potential of untreated and treated cotton fabrics was measured in variation of pH of an electrolyte solution before and after the 10 washing cycles. Qualitative characterisation of microcapsules layer was directly monitored by SEM and indirectly by the streaming potential method.

Ubrzani razvoj materijala za izradu jedara i brojnost kombinacija koje su prisutne u njima zbog korištenja različitih vlakana ali i konstrukcija uzrok su iznimno složenom sustavu koji je uspostavljen za objektivno vrednovanje njihove kvalitete i upotrebljivosti. Jedno od svojstava kojima se opisuje kvaliteta materijala za izradu jedara kao parametar koji određuje upotrebljivost materijala a može utjecati i na način održavanja samog jedra su sorpcijska svojstva. Stoga je u ovom radu istražen kontaktni kut kvašenja i adhezijski rad dvanaest različitih materijala, koji upravo zahvaljujući svojim međusobnim razlikama (konstrukcije i/ili sirovinskog sastava) u potpunosti prezentiraju širok spektar tekstilnih plošnih proizvoda namijenjenih izradi jedara a koji se danas mogu naći na tržištu. Rezultati provedenih istraživanja pokazuju da je metoda određivanja kontaktnog kuta kvašenja (metodom kapi) osim za određivanje sorpcijskih svojstava materijala za izradu jedara pogodna i kao metoda za utvrđivanje razlika između lica i naličja materijala koje ako su prisutne isključuju takav materijal iz skupine poželjnih materijala za izradu jedara budući da se s obzirom na namjenu i način upotrebe od njih očekuje identičnost karakteristika i svojstava lica i naličja.

21st century has imposed completely new demands on textile materials and clothing. Textile materials and clothing are used in various fields other than apparel industry like space, medical, defence, automobile, civil industry, sport and etc. One of such new sector which is commercially evolved in the past decade is cosmetic textiles. In this article we will focus on qualitative characterization of vitaminized cotton textiles and its possible usability in commercially available cosmetic textile products.

In the world oh high performance fibers and textiles, which are suitable for making a variety of protective clothing, special attention should be focused on applied sewing techniques and seam performance. Although it is usually taken for granted that new joining techniques (welding & bonding) ensure seam impermeability, it is not always so. Generally, there is no horizontal or vertical seam leakage in both types of fabric welding (US or HF), provided impermeable fabrics are used in the process. But, according to the some of our recent investigations on ultrasonically welded seam performances we may say that the only instance where horizontal permeability could occur is in ultrasound welding, if in welding an engraved roller is used with discontinuous pressing surface (dotted weld, weld with a series of discontinuous lines). Horizontal leakage is avoided if engraved anvil wheels with a single or multiple continuous lines are used, or anvil wheel with engraved sinusoid or zigzag pattern. However, to make a weld vertically impermeable it is necessary to optimize processing parameters which, if inappropriate, could cause micro-porosity and make the product inadequate for some of the intended end-uses (protective clothing, tents, reservoir etc.).

Za snažniji sveukupni razvoj jednog društva nužno je dovoljno i dugoročno ulaganje u obrazovanje i znanost. Pored ulaganja u ljudske resurse, ulaganje u suvremenu opremu je nužan preduvjet razvoja. Tekstilno-tehnološki fakultet uz financijsku podršku Ministarstva znanosti, obrazovanja i športa republike Hrvatske ulaže znatne napore u opremanju svojih laboratorija. Područja istraživanja na Tekstilno-tehnološkom fakultetu se u određenom mjeri šire, pa je i stoga potrebno opremati laboratorije s novom i različitom opremom. Posljednja novonabavljena oprema je: uređaj za mjerenje otpora prolazu topline i vodene pare obuće - model toplinske noge, različita oprema za restauraciju i konzervaciju tekstila te forenzička ispitivanja, uređaj za mjerenje probodnih sila šivaće igle i 3D skener za registriranje mjera stopala.

Ovaj rad usmjeren je na utvrđivanje nekih osnovnih kriterija koji bi mogli utjecati posredno ili neposredno na brendiranje hrvatske vune. Kriteriji bi bili dio postupka za kreiranje i dobivanje jamstvenog žiga i dio mogućeg utjecaja tog brenda na potražnju za hrvatskom vunom. Važno je istaknuti kako je osnovna pretpostavka rada da takav proizvod – hrvatska vuna – postoji. Iako je moguće postaviti mnoštvo različitih kriterija jamstvenog ponstupka, za ovaj rad su analizirani samo neki, po mišljenju autora relevantni kriteriji. Kako odabrani kriteriji mogu biti i posredna osnova za brendiranje hrvatske vune, ti isti kriteriji provociraju niz pitanja na koje u ovom radu nije bilo moguće dati i/ili pronaći znanstveno dokazive odgovore zbog ograničena prostora. Međutim, iznesene su neke od dilema i rasprava. U radu je konkretno predložen i sam jamstveni žig. ABSTRACT: This paper is focused on establishing some basic criteria which could in/directly affect the branding of Croatian wool. The criteria would form the basis for the procedure for creating and obtaining certification mark and part of the potential impact of the brand on the Croatian wool demand. It is important to point out that this paper is based on the basic assumption that such a product - Croatian wool - is available. Although it is possible to set a variety of criteria in order to provide certification procedure, within the scope of this paper only certain, according to the author, relevant criteria were analyzed.. As the selected criteria may form an indirect basis for Croatian wool branding, these same criteria pose a series of questions to which no scientifically verifiable answers could be found in this paper due to limited space. However, some of the dilemmas and debates were outlined. Also, the paper specifically proposed certification mark.

The purpose of the paper is to investigate how strong and stretchy modern sails can be.

Prikazani su primjeri mogućih mikroskopskih istraživanja vlaknima ojačanih kompozita

Navedeni su kriteriji kvalitete pojedinih tekstilija koje im osiguravaju kvalitetu i trajnost u uporabi.

Sa željom da nastane inovativni tekstilni proizvod unaprijeđenih svojstava treba se osloniti na dizajnerski i na znanstveni pristup. Naime, dizajneri tekstila pored nadahnuća prirodom i stvarima koje nas okružuju sve češće posežu u znanost ne bi li dobili inspiraciju za nove modele i kolekcije. U ovom radu istraživanja su provedena na mikroniziranom prirodnom zeotitu (klinoptilolit), te je na temelju istraživanja njegovih sorpcijskih svojstava i njegove primjene u funkcionalizaciji pamučnog pletiva izrađeno idejno rješenje potencijalno novih tekstilnih proizvoda. U svrhu funkcionalizacije pamučnih materijala, pamučno pletivo podvrgnuto je različitim obradama (tisak, apretura, ultrazvuk, zeolit) tijekom kojih se iskristaliziralo da je tisak mogući i efektivni način vezivanja nanočestica zeolita na pamučni materijal koji tako projektiran omogućava dizajniranje tekstilija različite namjene (sportska odjeća, kućanski i medicinski tekstil), tj. inovativnih pamučnih tekstilija.

Suvremeni svjetski trend u razvoju tekstilnih vlakana i vlaknatih materijala ukazuje na njihovu sve veću primjenu u različitim granama industrije i tehnike. Zahtjevi na vlakana i materijale za pojedina alternativna područja primjene izuzetno su visoki i specifični, a postižu se kroz inženjering vlakana tj. razvojem novih generičkih tipova vlakana ili modifikacijama postojećih konvencionalnih vlakana. Istraživanja u okviru projekta „Visokoučinkoviti tekstilni materijali i vlakna unapređene vrijednosti“, dio kojih je prikazan u ovom radu, odnose se na utvrđivanje mogućnosti modificiranja standardnih tekstilija i vlakana, napose, zanemarenih vlakana iz domaćih izvora (vuna i lan). Pretpostavka je da se inovativnim proizvodnim i doradnim procesima postojećim konvencionalnim vlaknima može unaprijediti vrijednost, te se kao takva mogu koristiti za dizajn novih tekstilnih materijala ciljanih svojstava u upotrebi. Shodno tome razvijaju se i metode odnosno sustavi objektivnog mjerenja i vrednovanja nekonvencionalnih tekstilnih materijala i/ili materijala ciljanih svojstava u upotrebi.

Kratki osvrt na 5 ITC&DC konferenciju i odabir radova za poseban broj časopisa Tekstil

Prije započinjanja svakog konzervatorsko-restauratorskog tretmana na predmetu koji se restaurira, potrebno je provesti detaljne analize tekstila i tekstilnih vlakana iz kojih je taj predmet napravljen. Analize koje se provode pomažu kod određivanja porijekla vlakana, starosti i stanja objekta, uzroka njegova propadanja, te primjene pravilnih restauratorskih metoda. Naime, na osnovu dobivenih rezultata analiza i njihove pravilne interpretacije određuje se daljini tijek i metode konzervatorsko-restauratorskog tretmana. Metode analiza mogu se podijeliti na mikroskopske i spektroskopske tehnike. Primjenom ovih metoda moguće je odrediti: o vrstu vlakana, (kao osnovne građevne jedinice svih tekstilija) o ne-vlaknasti sadržaj prisutan na površini vlakana i/ili tekstilije te u njenim međuprostorima (npr.: pigmenti, škrobovi, voskovi, prašina, pijesak, zemlja, plijesan, , ...) o vrstu i stupanj degradacije vlakna i propadanja materijala (npr.: rupe, pukotine, piling, deformacije, korozija, produkti razgradnje vlakana, fibrilacija...) o bojila i pigmente (vrsta i skupina, propadanje, promjene obojenja...) o apreture (inhibitori gorenja, apreture protiv gužvanja, škrobovi, omekšivači, sredstva za otežavanje materijala...) o nečistoće (npr.: mrlje od hrane, znoja, krvi...) ... Cilj ovog izlaganja je prikazati mogućnosti primjene različitih metoda identifikacije i analize vlakana, koje su zbog načina izvođenja (nedestruktivne ili mikrodestruktivne) i dobivenih rezultata analiza, vrlo korisne, te daju ključne informacije važne za povijesni tekstil koji se konzervira i restaurira.

Razvoj i dizajn nove ljetne visoke čizme vodonepropusne i paropropusne za Ministarstvo unutranjih poslova RH.